Pitti Uomo 108: plenty of entertaining stands but transport strike spoils the party
Pitti Uomo's 108th edition came to an end on a subdued note. The Florentine menswear show had a high turnout on the first two days, but from Thursday visitors were few and far between. The reason was a transport strike scheduled for Friday. That said, on the third day, Thursday, the organisers reported a 3% rise in visiting foreign buyers compared to the June 2024 edition. This 3% increase was confirmed by the show's final figures, but the number of Italian buyers attending the show was slightly lower than last year.
In total, 15,000 visitors attended Pitti Uomo 108, including 11,400 buyers who came to view the collections presented by the show's 740 exhibitors, of which 45% came from outside Italy. The organisers' final press release indicated that 5,400 buyers came from abroad, and 6,000 from the host country. Attendance from Europe was on par with the last edition, while the most significant rise in numbers came from the USA and China, followed by Japan and South-East Asia. Also on the rise was the number of buyers from Australia, Brazil and India, from Eastern Europe, the Middle East and some of central Asia's new markets.
The first half of the show, on Tuesday and Wednesday, got off to a buoyant start, with exhibitors and visitors keeping very busy, especially the former. Some exhibitors indeed pulled out all the stops to attract buyers to unique, high-impact stands, playing the party card or going for a sporting vibe. Their efforts were rewarded by the influx of buyers, especially from outside Italy. However, not all exhibitors shared the same enthusiasm, and it looked as though they would be eventually split into two quite different camps, some of them being extremely satisfied, while others extremely disappointed.
Exhibitors surpassed themselves in terms of stand layout and activities. Big striped sunshades and sunbeds were everywhere on the Fortezza da Basso venue's main central courtyard, and there was an all-pervasive holiday atmosphere. No stand was without a DJ, live music, or a catering corner. For example, Sun68 transformed this season's stand in a pizzeria equipped with small round tables and red and white checked tablecloths.
In the grand central pavilion, the bar operated by denim brand Roy Rogers was never empty, a long queue of visitors lining up every day by its entrance. They all wanted to taste the delicious affogato ice cream served by Vivoli, a long-established Florentine ice-cream parlour, with which Roy Rogers has designed a capsule collection. The affogato, vanilla ice-cream drowned in coffee, is a Vivoli speciality.
Swimwear brand MC2 Saint Barth transformed its stand into a bona fide Greek tavern with turquoise tables and chairs, while a guitarist and two dancers made sure the party vibe was always on.
To make the atmosphere even more Mediterranean, some, like Kiton, even transported a small cabin cruiser and oodles of fine sand on the Fortezza's concrete esplanade. Neapolitan menswear brand Kiton presented its first nautical project at Pitti Uomo, a collaboration with boat-builders Sacs Marine to customise a special model of their Strider 13 cruiser. Kiton has also launched the KNT Marina capsule collection, featuring lightweight beachwear, and announced the opening of a store in Porto Cervo, Sardinia.
Sport is indeed the season's leitmotif, as illustrated by the show's theme, 'Pitti Bike'. The organisers incorporated within the event their new trade show, Becycle, dedicated to the world of cycling. It was part of the 'I Go Out' section on contemporary outdoor apparel and equipment, whose setting was redesigned for this edition, using light metallic structures, climbing ropes and tent canvas. A selection of major cycling brands like Colnago, Passoni, Ashmei and Pas Normal Studios were exhibiting in this section, and even staged a cycling parade on the venue's outer perimeter.
Also highly successful was the stand of Italian sportswear brand ellesse, which installed a vast tennis court in one of the venue's outdoor spaces, organising amusing tournaments played with huge rackets and balls. Of course, the stand also featured a DJ, music and a bar.
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Staged inside a beautifully decorated Art Liberty building, one could also admire some great new watches, swish calfskin notepads and, of course, some beautiful pens. Pride of place going to a crayon pen in a striking new cigar shape. In a word, like the motto of the film campaign, 'Let's write.' Qasimi: Desert storm delicate Desert storm met delicate touches in a moment of grace by Qasimi, a show staged inside the cloisters of Sant'Eustachio, a venerable Romanesque church. By the accident of timing, this warrior-on-manoeuvre chic appeared just 10 hours after the massive American bombing raid on Iran's nuclear facilities. Though the opening looks were almost spiritual, hybrid meetings of modular jackets and trouser skirts. Even if the key fabric this season was memory nylon, where the rough creases mimicked the desert sands and jagged hills of the Gulf states. 'My brother always liked to reference where we come from. And I recalled that one of his collections was about growing during the Iraq-Kuwait conflict, and seeing the military gear and tailoring on television,' revealed Hoor Al-Qasimi, who succeeded her late Khalid at his passing a half-decade ago. Hence, flak jackets, multi-pocket vests and utilitarian safaris came in memory nylon, making for a very original take on fashion. Hoor also collaborated with Lebanese artist Dala Nasser, who built a large circular scaffolding installation wrapped in flags, riffing on the ancient sites of her native land. Adding to the drama, the show began late after a model fainted backstage and was carried out on a stretcher, before reportedly recovering in an ambulance outside. Altogether, the collection was 'a meditation on place, transformation and co-existence – a tribute to 10 years of vision and to Khalid Al Qasimi's enduring creative spirit,' concluded his very loyal sister, who took an extended tour of the cloisters for her bow. 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The iridescent herringbone fabric much loved by patrician Italians like Gianni Agnelli, first developed in the UK, but perfected on the peninsula. 'We are not a sports brand; we are a lifestyle brand. Between mountain and sea, and for everyday urban essentials, yet tennis represents our values,' insisted Franco. The brothers — scions of the family that sold Loro Piana to LVMH — certainly have deep pockets. Founded in 2016, Sease has enjoyed rapid growth, opening with stores in Milan, St. Moritz and Cortina, and now including London, Paris, Gstaad, Courchevel, Florence and Dubai. The brand also boasts more than 80 wholesale accounts, including Harrods and Bergdorf Goodman. 'We are about to blossom… We are about redefining tradition through design and performance,' insisted Franco, who, however, declined to reveal annual turnover. Etro: Polished paisley power Paisley power at Etro in a pretty and polished presentation, staged in the brand's historic headquarters on Via Spartaco. Nothing spartan about these clothes — full of joie de vivre and celebration. The collection featured excellent pale blue denim paisley jeans and shorts, perfect for a Mykonos sunset cocktail. When things got chilly, there were some very natty cotton safari jackets embroidered with fabric cacti and flowers. The brand's silk pyjamas and dressing gowns looked like ideal billionaire leisurewear — perfect for Jeff Bezos ' upcoming wedding in Venice. All told, lots of lush menswear luxury — even if one could not help noticing the absence of the house's designer, Marco De Vincenzo, from the event. But at least everything was complemented by the fine dining, catered by Michelin-starred restaurant Il Luogo, with delicious riso al salto alla Milanese and the best prosecco of the season.
