Latest news with #PittiUomo
Fashion United
4 hours ago
- Business
- Fashion United
Pitti Uomo faces overall situation sportingly
Pitti Uomo remained resilient, once again demonstrating the importance of industry gatherings at the Florentine menswear trade show, amidst a global landscape shaped by war and trade disputes, and subdued consumer sentiment. Although the start appeared somewhat slower, Pitti Uomo shone in its full glory from the second day of the trade fair onwards, with good attendance. Pitti Immagine managing director, Raffaello Napoleone, was pleased about this, having already noticed comparatively more national and international buyers on the first day than in previous seasons. Industry meets in Florence The increase perceived by the trade fair chief was also confirmed by the figures. According to forecasts published by the trade fair organiser on Thursday, the trade fair was expected to conclude with 11,500 to 12,000 trade visitors and record over 15,000 visitors in total. This would put the 108th edition of Pitti Uomo on par with the June 2024 edition. "Pitti Uomo is a symbol and a concrete instrument for promoting and developing trade – in every economic phase, even in times of change, such as we are probably experiencing right now," said Napoleone. "The response from buyers from over 100 countries across five continents is the best we could have hoped for." Philippe Celeny, Digel's chief sales officer, expressed satisfaction with the visitors at the trade fair. Although the first morning seemed somewhat weaker and the frequency in the aisles appeared restrained, similar figures were recorded as in the January edition of Pitti. Around 600 buyers gained insights into the brand's collections over the three-and-a-half days. With 100 square metres of stand space, significantly more than in the previous edition, Digel had ample room to present its casual wear and more classic looks. Buyers from Germany and Italy, as well as from France, England, and the US, were in attendance. Digel at Pitti Uomo Credits: Ole Spötter for FashionUnited For office and leisure Menswear increasingly adopted a hybrid approach in the casual wear segment. Buyers were looking for an alternative to the jacket, as heard at both Digel and shirt specialist Olymp. Overshirts made of linen and softer blends for blazers were well received. AlphaTauri, the casual wear brand of the Austrian conglomerate Red Bull, showcased a sporty approach to the hybrid jacket with an integrated hooded jacket. Trousers continued to widen in the mainstream, uniting the casual look for the office and leisure. German clothing supplier Drykorn focused on a lightweight zipped jacket combined with wide-leg suit trousers in its casual wear. In tailoring, it presented such a cut with a slim-fitting blazer. Paul & Shark at Pitti Uomo Credits: Ole Spötter for FashionUnited Drykorn showcased these silhouettes under the umbrella of the 'Harbour Club', where the imaginary dockworker met the businessman, and thus workwear met business wear. With this approach, the Kitzingen-based brand entered the right waters, resulting in a positive atmosphere, reported chief sales officer, Benny Jandl. Of course, the typical maritime stripes were not to be missed. For SS26, they found a place on shirts in a casual form and various widths at several brands, including streetwear brand Icecream, denim specialist Replay, and Olymp. The pattern rounded off the transition between work and leisure, especially for the more classic brands. A tie with puffer at Ssstufff Credits: Ole Spötter for FashionUnited Fun being an increasing part of formal wear was demonstrated above all by young brands in their reinterpretations of the tie. Whether at Spanish streetwear brand Ssstufff, which presented the tie as a voluminous eye-catcher as part of a puffer jacket inspired by a business shirt; as an oversized leather look at the young English label Śilpa; or as a cut-out variant at the Korean guest brand Post Archive Faction, brands found individual ways to reinterpret the classic accessory. Ties at Śilpa Credits: Ole Spötter for FashionUnited Tie art at Post Archive Credits: Ole Spötter for FashionUnited In terms of qualities, the mainstream also opened up more to higher-quality knitted polos with higher price points, explained Elias Banai, who is responsible for sales in Northern Germany for Olymp. For the company, maintaining turnover was paramount, as the overall situation remained difficult and the shirt specialist also had to adapt to the current shift towards knitwear. Some retailers had not had such a good start to the current year. Nevertheless, Olymp remained optimistic and hoped for a better second half of the year. Sports enthusiasts Last season, the trade fair put running in the spotlight; now it was cycling. With the integration of the Becyle bicycle trade fair, which launched last year at the start of the Tour de France in Florence, the current edition, with Pitti Bikes, was all about cycling. Within the outerwear segment, several cycling specialists were represented accordingly. But other brands were also inspired by the theme. Among them was the German streetwear brand Prohibited, which presented a lifestyle cycling jersey – without performance aspirations – in a bright pink. They were able to attract between five and ten new partners for order appointments and enthuse up to 30 interested parties from German-speaking countries, Italy, and the UK. Cycling jersey by Prohibited Credits: Ole Spötter for FashionUnited Overall, sporting activity played a major role throughout the trade fair grounds. Fashion was moving ever closer to the theme of wellness, and people simply wanted to be well-dressed when they exercised, said Napoleone. Even traditional clothing suppliers were increasingly opening up to the segment and using activewear fabrics for their collections. Ellesse with XXL tennis at Pitti Uomo Credits: AKAstudio-collective for Pitti Immagine Whether at the installation of the Italian sportswear brand Ellesse, where visitors were invited to a match with XXL tennis rackets, Champion's journey through its own history in sports such as basketball and boxing, or Bikkembergs' collaboration with Russian designer Gosha Rubchinskiy to revive the brand's football-inspired roots, the sporting spirit was omnipresent. Former professional footballer Luis Figo was also part of the event. His eponymous brand dedicated itself this season to a golf-inspired casual wear collection, but with a significantly smaller ball than in his active playing days. Former professional footballer and brand founder Luis Figo Credits: Ole Spötter for FashionUnited The Italian-based brand of the Portuguese focused particularly on muted colours such as beige and cream tones. This was a picture that emerged at many stands. Various shades of green, brown tones, and different gradations of blue also shaped the image. Drykorn also used a 'burned red', among other colours. Overall, the colour palette seemed to stem more from autumn than from a cheerful spring. From Scandinavia to Korea Like the brands, the trade fair was also in constant flux to keep up with the times. This year, sport replaced the pet brands that were still part of Pitti last year, equipping four-legged friends with fashionable accessories and pieces. But for the time being, the event wants to stick to the handlebars of Pitti Bikes next season as well. In addition, there were more and more international collaborations, bringing their local talents to Florence and thus strengthening the global flair, to which buyers from almost 50 different countries naturally contributed. Halfway through the third day of the event, the number of registered foreign buyers stood at 4,400 – an increase of 3 percent compared to the previous year. The number of Italian buyers who visited the trade fair remained at the level of the previous summer edition, the trade fair organiser announced. Of the approximately 740 brands exhibiting at the trade fair, 46 percent were from abroad. Valoren at Pitti Uomo Credits: Ole Spötter for FashionUnited This season, for the first time, alongside the separate areas for Chinese and Scandinavian brands, a curated area of Korean brands was part of the trade fair. With Code Korea, brands such as Ordinary People and Ajobyajo, which had previously mostly shown their collections at fashion shows in Seoul, now wanted to open up to the European market. Meanwhile, trade fair organiser Pitti Immagine could not imagine presenting itself with an Italian delegation at a foreign trade fair, said Napoleone. They wanted to remain true to the fortress walls of the Fortezza da Basso exhibition grounds with their unique atmosphere and stand out from the crowd. Although they had already received numerous offers from New York to Paris, Pitti preferred to focus on its own format and thus tried to remain true to itself even in difficult geopolitical times. This article was translated to English using an AI tool. FashionUnited uses AI language tools to speed up translating (news) articles and proofread the translations to improve the end result. This saves our human journalists time they can spend doing research and writing original articles. Articles translated with the help of AI are checked and edited by a human desk editor prior to going online. If you have questions or comments about this process email us at info@
Fashion United
8 hours ago
- Entertainment
- Fashion United
The devil is in the details: the street style of Pitti Uomo
Pitti Uomo has long served not only as the unofficial kickoff to the menswear season, but also as a masterclass in sartorial excellence, particularly in the art of tailoring. In recent years, however, the once-celebrated and occasionally mocked figure of the 'Pitti Peacock' has, while not entirely vanished, become something of an endangered species. This season, too, the most compelling interpretations of street style weren't necessarily from the suited and booted gentlemen – though they were, as ever, reliably hatted and often dressed in terracotta tones that echoed the city's famed golden hour. Rather, it was the attendees whose ensembles featured the most intricate details who stood out amid the crowds, braving the Florentine heat at the fair's longtime home, the Fortezza da Basso. FashionUnited has rounded up some of the best street style trends spotted so far at Pitti Uomo Paint by numbers Street style at Pitti Uomo thrives on detail – and this season, it was the playful use of what looked like hand-drawn doodles and paint that truly stood out. Rather than relying on classic patterns or logos, many looks were adorned with elements that evoked finger painting, hand-drawn illustrations, and seemingly random scribbles, reminiscent of sketchbooks or children's drawings. Street Style at Pitti Uomo Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight From painterly spirals and wine glasses on wide-legged trousers to a cream workwear jacket covered in cartoonish ducks, scribbled words, and stitched-on graphics, wearers treated their clothing as a medium for storytelling. Embroidery Street Style at Pitti Uomo Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight It wasn't just paint that made a mark on the season—embroidery also took center stage as a tactile counterpoint to the playful brushstrokes seen elsewhere. Threads replaced ink, lending garments a sense of craft and permanence. From botanical flourishes stitched across jackets to folkloric motifs quietly blooming on backs and sleeves, embroidery became a language of texture and tradition. Sport-inspired silhouettes Another notable shift, one that already started a hold in previous years, was the unabashed embrace of sport-inspired silhouettes, a genre often overlooked at such a tailoring-centric event. Whether through retro soccer jerseys, oversized mesh layers, or baseball-style shirts, attendees leaned into athletic aesthetics with a knowing, almost ironic sophistication. Street Style at Pitti Uomo Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight One example was a vintage green Adidas football shirt styled with wide-legged trousers and loafers, blending pitch-side nostalgia with Italian polish. Another was a powder-blue mesh training vest over a button-down, complete with a baseball cap and wraparound sunglasses, nodding to early 2000's skater cool and a third look was composed of a classic white and blue 'Cougar' baseball jersey, paired with slouchy olive chinos and a leopard-print cap. Ties as canvases Street Style at Pitti Uomo Credits: (left and middle) ©Launchmetrics/spotlight, (right) Enrico Labriola Art wasn't only present in the form of doodles on clothing but also made a bold appearance on ties, transforming a once-conservative accessory into a vibrant medium of self-expression. At Pitti Uomo, ties became walking canvases, splashed with sunflowers, peppered with miniature birds, or woven with lush, tapestry-like florals. These weren't just playful prints but rather painterly statements that stood out against relaxed tailoring and oversized shirts. Camouflage made to stand out Street Style at Pitti Uomo Credits: (left) ©Launchmetrics/spotlight, (middle and right) ChillaxingROAD In a season where artistry and intention were paramount, even camouflage – long associated with utilitarianism and anonymity – took on new meaning. Rather than blending in, it stood out. Worn across a spectrum of silhouettes and contexts, from tailored jungle jackets layered over crisp shirts and ties to slouchy cargo pants paired with denim and trucker caps, camo didn't feel like military cosplay but rather its own sartorial statement.
Fashion Network
21 hours ago
- Entertainment
- Fashion Network
Niccolò Pasqualetti shows breezy new take on menswear at Pitti Uomo
Niccolò Pasqualetti has delighted Florence. Featuring as special guest at Pitti Uomo, the Italian designer, who habitually shows in Paris, staged a wonderful show on Thursday on the auditorium terrace at the Teatro del Maggio Fiorentino, akin to a modern marble labyrinth perched atop a vast stairway. Like mirages under the noonday sun, the models stepped as though suspended across this captivating, almost futuristic space. Pasqualetti took advantage of his presence at Pitti Uomo to unveil his first menswear collection, for Spring/Summer 2026. As often with Pasqualetti, the collection looked quite ordinary. But on closer inspection, even the most classic items in the collection had been cleverly reinvented, through a myriad details and painstaking work on volumes and garment construction. The result was a sophisticated, uber-contemporary men's wardrobe. Pasqualetti has imaginatively reinterpreted the main menswear staples, whether utility wear, military uniforms or the most classic tailored suits, turning each of them into new, original looks. For example, a classic wool waistcoat morphed into a tank top-corset thanks to swathes of sheer tulle fabric hiding the upper part of the shoulders. Trousers were cinched below the waist by multiple pleats. A jacket was transformed into a cropped, oval cape with rounded openings at the shoulders. Some shirts' hems extended and flared out, creating movement when the shirts were unbuttoned. Elsewhere, a shirt was presented minus one sleeve, replaced by a shoulder strap, adding a light summery touch. Pasqualetti adopted the same trick for an austere black suit jacket. In another jacket, he shortened the sleeves, making them flare like a kimono's. 'I love to work with items that are hard to pigeonhole. Capes that behave like shirts, trousers that split lengthwise or bend around the leg, suits softened by pleats and asymmetric lines. I try to let fabrics guide me. Some are so beautiful that I leave them as they are, while others improve by being mixed up in a sort of collage,' said Pasqualetti. In a sportier register, Pasqualetti redesigned a pair of denim dungarees by setting the bib slightly off-centre and adding pleats. A camo T-shirt evolved into an openwork leather top. Some models wore crocheted tops, others micro tank top-corsets. Pasqualetti also had fun with layering effects. Layered fabrics were used to create fluid skirt-trousers, while a pleated skirt was slipped into a pair of trousers. Sweaters knitted in a variety of stitch types glided and billowed over the models' bodies. Masculine and feminine elements blended harmoniously, without gratuitous excess or purposeless provocation. Pasqualetti's menswear is absolutely contemporary. His looks are made for travelling with no bags, only a flat bum bag-belt equipped with a removable maxi pouch. Everything was functional and comfortable, and at the same time chic and sophisticated. Some pieces of brutalist-style jewellery featured in occasional looks. 'With menswear, you generally have to abide by certain codes, but there's an art to breaking the rules. Every day is a negotiation between the formal and the casual, between individuality and belonging, strength and vulnerability. I want my clothes to reflect this reality, allowing everyone to express several personalities at once,' concluded Pasqualetti.
Fashion Network
21 hours ago
- Entertainment
- Fashion Network
Niccolò Pasqualetti shows breezy new take on menswear at Pitti Uomo
Niccolò Pasqualetti has delighted Florence. Featuring as special guest at Pitti Uomo, the Italian designer, who habitually shows in Paris, staged a wonderful show on Thursday on the auditorium terrace at the Teatro del Maggio Fiorentino, akin to a modern marble labyrinth perched atop a vast stairway. Like mirages under the noonday sun, the models stepped as though suspended across this captivating, almost futuristic space. Pasqualetti took advantage of his presence at Pitti Uomo to unveil his first menswear collection, for Spring/Summer 2026. As often with Pasqualetti, the collection looked quite ordinary. But on closer inspection, even the most classic items in the collection had been cleverly reinvented, through a myriad details and painstaking work on volumes and garment construction. The result was a sophisticated, uber-contemporary men's wardrobe. Pasqualetti has imaginatively reinterpreted the main menswear staples, whether utility wear, military uniforms or the most classic tailored suits, turning each of them into new, original looks. For example, a classic wool waistcoat morphed into a tank top-corset thanks to swathes of sheer tulle fabric hiding the upper part of the shoulders. Trousers were cinched below the waist by multiple pleats. A jacket was transformed into a cropped, oval cape with rounded openings at the shoulders. Some shirts' hems extended and flared out, creating movement when the shirts were unbuttoned. Elsewhere, a shirt was presented minus one sleeve, replaced by a shoulder strap, adding a light summery touch. Pasqualetti adopted the same trick for an austere black suit jacket. In another jacket, he shortened the sleeves, making them flare like a kimono's. 'I love to work with items that are hard to pigeonhole. Capes that behave like shirts, trousers that split lengthwise or bend around the leg, suits softened by pleats and asymmetric lines. I try to let fabrics guide me. Some are so beautiful that I leave them as they are, while others improve by being mixed up in a sort of collage,' said Pasqualetti. In a sportier register, Pasqualetti redesigned a pair of denim dungarees by setting the bib slightly off-centre and adding pleats. A camo T-shirt evolved into an openwork leather top. Some models wore crocheted tops, others micro tank top-corsets. Pasqualetti also had fun with layering effects. Layered fabrics were used to create fluid skirt-trousers, while a pleated skirt was slipped into a pair of trousers. Sweaters knitted in a variety of stitch types glided and billowed over the models' bodies. Masculine and feminine elements blended harmoniously, without gratuitous excess or purposeless provocation. Pasqualetti's menswear is absolutely contemporary. His looks are made for travelling with no bags, only a flat bum bag-belt equipped with a removable maxi pouch. Everything was functional and comfortable, and at the same time chic and sophisticated. Some pieces of brutalist-style jewellery featured in occasional looks. 'With menswear, you generally have to abide by certain codes, but there's an art to breaking the rules. Every day is a negotiation between the formal and the casual, between individuality and belonging, strength and vulnerability. I want my clothes to reflect this reality, allowing everyone to express several personalities at once,' concluded Pasqualetti.
Fashion Network
a day ago
- Entertainment
- Fashion Network
Niccolò Pasqualetti shows breezy new take on menswear at Pitti Uomo
Niccolò Pasqualetti has delighted Florence. Featuring as special guest at Pitti Uomo, the Italian designer, who habitually shows in Paris, staged a wonderful show on Thursday on the auditorium terrace at the Teatro del Maggio Fiorentino, akin to a modern marble labyrinth perched atop a vast stairway. Like mirages under the noonday sun, the models stepped as though suspended across this captivating, almost futuristic space. Pasqualetti took advantage of his presence at Pitti Uomo to unveil his first menswear collection, for Spring/Summer 2026. As often with Pasqualetti, the collection looked quite ordinary. But on closer inspection, even the most classic items in the collection had been cleverly reinvented, through a myriad details and painstaking work on volumes and garment construction. The result was a sophisticated, uber-contemporary men's wardrobe. Pasqualetti has imaginatively reinterpreted the main menswear staples, whether utility wear, military uniforms or the most classic tailored suits, turning each of them into new, original looks. For example, a classic wool waistcoat morphed into a tank top-corset thanks to swathes of sheer tulle fabric hiding the upper part of the shoulders. Trousers were cinched below the waist by multiple pleats. A jacket was transformed into a cropped, oval cape with rounded openings at the shoulders. Some shirts' hems extended and flared out, creating movement when the shirts were unbuttoned. Elsewhere, a shirt was presented minus one sleeve, replaced by a shoulder strap, adding a light summery touch. Pasqualetti adopted the same trick for an austere black suit jacket. In another jacket, he shortened the sleeves, making them flare like a kimono's. 'I love to work with items that are hard to pigeonhole. Capes that behave like shirts, trousers that split lengthwise or bend around the leg, suits softened by pleats and asymmetric lines. I try to let fabrics guide me. Some are so beautiful that I leave them as they are, while others improve by being mixed up in a sort of collage,' said Pasqualetti. In a sportier register, Pasqualetti redesigned a pair of denim dungarees by setting the bib slightly off-centre and adding pleats. A camo T-shirt evolved into an openwork leather top. Some models wore crocheted tops, others micro tank top-corsets. Pasqualetti also had fun with layering effects. Layered fabrics were used to create fluid skirt-trousers, while a pleated skirt was slipped into a pair of trousers. Sweaters knitted in a variety of stitch types glided and billowed over the models' bodies. Masculine and feminine elements blended harmoniously, without gratuitous excess or purposeless provocation. Pasqualetti's menswear is absolutely contemporary. His looks are made for travelling with no bags, only a flat bum bag-belt equipped with a removable maxi pouch. Everything was functional and comfortable, and at the same time chic and sophisticated. Some pieces of brutalist-style jewellery featured in occasional looks. 'With menswear, you generally have to abide by certain codes, but there's an art to breaking the rules. Every day is a negotiation between the formal and the casual, between individuality and belonging, strength and vulnerability. I want my clothes to reflect this reality, allowing everyone to express several personalities at once,' concluded Pasqualetti.
