I swapped Costa del Sol for this local Spanish beach spot – it's cheaper, calmer and there's no Brits in sight
SOL LONG I swapped Costa del Sol for this local Spanish beach spot – it's cheaper, calmer and there's no Brits in sight
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AFTER years of bouncing between the usual Spanish hotspots like Barcelona, Madrid, and the Costa del Sol, there's one beach town I keep going back to - and hardly any Brits know about it.
Called El Palmar de Vejer - or just El Palmar by locals - this little surf town on the south-west coast in the province of Cádiz, is one of Spain's best-kept secrets.
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I've found the quieter side of Spain without the Brits
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It's not easy to get to, but that's exactly why it still feels like a secret
Credit: Lee Bell
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There's no high-rise developments, no big hotel chains, no resorts
Credit: Alamy
It's laid-back, raw, and totally free of the usual Brits-abroad buzz. And that's exactly why it's so good.
It's not easy to get to, but that's exactly why it still feels like a secret.
Spanish locals love it - especially those from Madrid, who drive down for the summer holidays.
But it's rare you'll hear anyone speaking English, and I've never once seen a big group of British tourists here.
If you want sun, space, proper Spanish food and a bit of surf, this is the place.
El Palmar is all about the beach - and it's a big one. It's long, wide and open, with soft golden sand and a breeze that rolls in off the Atlantic.
Locals even call the area 'Cádizfornia' because it's got that same laid-back, surfy vibe you get in California.
And they're not wrong - it really does feel like Spain's answer to the west coast of the US. Just less polished - and no loud Americans. Phew.
What's more, there's no high-rise developments, no big hotel chains, no resorts. Instead, you'll find only small holiday apartments, beachside glamping sites and independent surf lodges.
A lot of the accommodation is low-key - think bungalows behind the dunes or boutique guesthouses a short walk from the beach.
One of Spain's oldest beach bars that was loved by A-List stars forced to close — as fans say goodbye to €4 beers and sea views
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It feels more like California
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The town itself is more of a strip - a few shops, surf schools, and beach bars, all built into the landscape. There's no real centre, but that's part of the charm.
It's the kind of place where you can go barefoot all day and no one would batter an eyelid.
The whole of El Palmar feels peaceful and raw in the best way. It's not overly polished or fancy, but that's the appeal.
You wake up to the sound of waves, stroll out to a café for breakfast, hit the beach, maybe do a surf lesson or just lie in the sun, then head to one of the chiringuitos for lunch.
These chiringuitos are what make it for me. These are beach bars right on the sand, serving cold drinks and some of the best seafood I've had in Spain.
You can get a table with your feet in the sand, order a plate of prawns or tuna tartare, and just sit watching the waves roll in and the sun in your face.
Locals even call the area 'Cádizfornia' for the surfy vibe
Most places also do proper Andalusian paella, fried fish, grilled sardines - all cooked fresh and served with a side of salty air. It's not expensive, either. You can get a great meal with drinks for under €20 if you know where to go.
In the evenings, some bars have live music - usually acoustic, sometimes a bit of flamenco. It's never full-on party mode, but it's sociable and fun.
You won't find bar crawls or club reps here - just locals and in-the-know visitors enjoying the sunsets, which are nearly always amazing.
El Palmar's great for doing absolutely nothing. But if you fancy mixing things up, there's a lot to explore nearby.
About 15 minutes inland is the whitewashed hill town of Vejer de la Frontera.
Here you'll find quaint narrow streets, flower-filled balconies and sweeping views.
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Visit the nearby Vejer de la Frontera
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Make sure to explore the Old Quarter too
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You can head up for lunch or dinner, wander the old quarter, and enjoy a change of scenery without going too far.
Further down the coast is Tarifa - Europe's southernmost town and the meeting point of the Atlantic and the Med. It's more built-up, with a mix of surf shops, Moroccan cafés and tapas bars.
It's a great spot if you want something a bit more lively for a day or two - or even to bolt onto your El Palmar trip.
And just up the coast is Cádiz city, one of the oldest cities in Europe.
Cadiz is full of history, with colourful buildings, crumbling castles, seafood markets and buzzing tapas bars. You could easily spend a day there before heading back to your beach base.
How to get there
El Palmar's not the easiest place to reach - but that's why you don't see many tourists there, adding to its charm.
Hiring a car from airports Seville or Malaga is probably your easiest option. It's under two hours from Seville, and about 2.5 from Málaga. The roads are easy, the views are decent, and once you're there, you'll be glad you didn't mess about with transfers.
But if you're lacking a driving licence but have plenty of patience, you can still get there by public transport.
From Seville, take a train to San Fernando Bahía Sur station, which is about 1.5 hours away and costs about €17 (£14). From there, it's a 35-minute taxi ride to the beach, which will cost about €70 (£60).
You can also go via Cádiz, which has a direct bus to El Palmar run by Transportes Generales Comes. It takes just over an hour and is fairly cheap, between €5–€14. However, buses aren't super frequent and can be even more limited outside of summer.
Coming from Málaga? You'll need to train it to Cádiz first (about 3 hours), then catch the same bus down to the coast.
All doable, but if you want to avoid the faff, just hire a car.
Where to stay, when to go
You're not going to find anything super lux at El Palmar, but that's part of its appeal.
If you want somewhere stylish but low-key, look at Nexo Surf House, it's got spacious, airy rooms, a restaurant and surf lessons all rolled into one.
For something more rustic, the glamping options at Kampaoh are worth a look. Here you'll find safari-style tents with proper beds and private bathrooms, all a short walk from the beach.
There are also plenty of local Airbnbs scattered along the coast, many within walking distance to the beach. Some are simple studios, others are bigger houses that are ideal for groups or families.
Wherever you stay, you're never far from the sea - and that's the whole point.
In the busier summer months of July and August, however, be sure to book well in advance as rooms do get booked up fast by locals.
Even then, it's mostly Spanish families, not hordes of tourists. The beach is big enough that it never feels rammed. It's not built for mass tourism, and that's why it's so good.
If you want a quieter vibe, I'd opt to go in June or September. The weather's still hot, the sea's warm, and there's lots of space.
Flights to Seville from the UK start from around £25 return if you book early enough.
If you want a break that's off the beaten track, full of charm, and free from the usual Brit holiday clichés, this is the place to go.
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