Experts are sounding the alarm on a concerning trend with clothing fabrics: 'Not one that's sustainable'

If you've ever found yourself involuntarily participating in the sheer clothing trend, you're not alone. Unfortunately, as Slate examines, this frustrating experience is becoming more common, and the pattern has experts sounding the alarm.
You're not imagining it: Finding the perfect white T-shirt is becoming harder than ever before, as Slate points out. That's because fabric weight is on the decline.
"The 'heavy' T-shirts might have weighed 8 to 10 ounces per square yard of fabric," University of Kentucky textile chemist Elizabeth Easter told the publication of clothing production 20 years ago. "Today, we see half that."
"Pretty much everything is lighter and thinner," Fashion Institute of Technology professor of textiles Sean Cormier affirmed, explaining that a square yard of fabric in chinos used to weigh around eight ounces. Now, that number is closer to six.
The thinner the garment, the shorter its lifespan, as Cormier explained to Slate, noting that "it's a trend in the industry, and not one that's sustainable."
Cormier added that clothing brands have fewer fabric options in modern production because factories control their supply. Nonetheless, many companies still opt for fabrics that will maximize their profits. While a brand may sell an item at a low price, consumers will ultimately pay more in the long run because they need to replace their apparel sooner rather than later.
"If somebody had made a better fabric selection, you could have worn it a lot longer," Cormier pointed out. Sadly, not only is this a drain on the wallet, but it's also a significant burden on the environment — and a public health concern.
According to Earth.org, around 60% of clothing is made with plastic-based fabrics. At each stage of its lifecycle, plastic-based apparel can shed microplastics, which scientific studies have linked to severe complications like cancer and dementia.
All in all, a throwaway culture has resulted in more than 101 million tons of textiles ending up in dumps annually, as the average time a garment is worn has dipped by 36% over the past 15 years.
The American Society for Testing and Materials issues standards for material performance, but Cormier explained to Slate that fashion companies aren't required to implement them.
However, that doesn't mean you need to throw up your hands in defeat. You can use your purchasing power to support brands that are doing more than giving lip service to sustainability.
Good on You is one online resource that can help you find eco-conscious companies committed to quality. Meanwhile, thrifting is an affordable way to keep your wardrobe up-to-date and perhaps score a rare vintage item at a steep discount.
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Scientific American

6 days ago

• Scientific American

How to Be a Smarter Fashion Consumer in a World of Overstated Sustainability

Why is it so hard to cut through the greenwashing and overstated claims of the sustainable-clothing landscape? To start, the development, production and distribution of most garments are complex endeavors involving a global web of interconnected farmers, factories and traders, all supplying parts and processes to a huge number of brands and customers. Along that chain, there are many types of human and environmental impacts to consider. Some are challenging to measure, and some even 'trade off' against one another—for instance, recycled materials are good for resource use but are potentially more likely to increase microfiber shedding. Many standards, product innovations, materials and brands claim to have a lower impact—and many more companies share very little information. All of this makes it challenging for a consumer to make decisions while shopping. This guide will help you understand the stages of clothing inception and production. It will let you better piece together clues for a given garment or company to figure out whether sustainability was a priority at different stages of the life cycle, in terms of both the environment and human rights. You'll learn key terms that are important for evaluating whether claims have evidence behind them. The guide will also point you to other resources that can help you cut through the noise and get clear guidance, including rating and information sites such as Good On You or reports such as the United Nations Environment Program road map. Above all, the two simplest ways to participate in sustainable fashion are to buy less and to ask questions. Many people in developed countries significantly overconsume apparel. As clothing production has doubled, the number of times each item is worn or used has dropped by approximately 40 percent. Using, repairing or adapting what you already have; borrowing items; buying vintage or secondhand; or leasing from sustainable rental companies can all provide a low-impact alternative to purchasing new products. If you do want to buy new, ask the right questions: look for evidence to support claims, don't be fooled by terms such as 'natural,' and engage with companies directly to request more information and more sustainable processes and products. These actions alone, if done at scale, would have the power to change the fashion industry. On supporting science journalism If you're enjoying this article, consider supporting our award-winning journalism by subscribing. By purchasing a subscription you are helping to ensure the future of impactful stories about the discoveries and ideas shaping our world today. WHAT YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT CLOTHING PRODUCTION Here we break down the dominant linear pathway of garments, punctuated with details for each stage that impact sustainability from both a human-rights and an environmental point of view. For the most part, policymakers, corporations and designers are in the position to make the most substantive changes to each step—including by bending production flow to create a circular pathway. That said, consumers can use this knowledge to make informed decisions in support of sustainable practices. Design and Concept • Material and construction-technique decisions—made by designers and fashion brands—influence the impact of production and the garment's lifespan. As fashion scholar Peggy Blum writes, 'Design is key in the shift to a circular fashion model, which requires greater focus on doing things 'right from the start.'' Raw Material Production • There are three primary fiber-source categories: natural fibers, natural polymers and synthetic polymers. For natural fibers, 'production' refers to cultivation or breeding. In the case of polymers, it refers to cellulose or oil extraction. Material Processing and Sourcing • Raw materials must be processed or extracted before fiber preparation. This involves, for example, cotton baling and sheep shearing, as well as the transport of the materials. For synthetics, it involves the chemical production of specific polymers from the source ingredients to make, for instance, polyester chips. Fiber Preparation • Fibers are aligned and elongated. In the case of cotton, a series of specialized machines pick fibers off bales, then clean and straighten them into long and loose untwisted strips. Synthetic polymers are extruded to create fibers. Yarn Preparation (Spinning) • Spinning is the torsion process by which fibers are twisted into yarn. Short fibers (cotton and wool) are called staple fibers. Long fibers (silk and many synthetics) are called filaments; they generally require less processing at this stage. Different spinning methods yield different characteristics. Weaving, Knitting, Bonding • Yarn is then manipulated into fabric. Woven fabrics are made of perpendicular and stable interlocking yarns. Knitted fabrics are made of stretchable, interlocking loops. Bonded fabrics are technical textiles in which fibers and/or fabrics are bound by adhesives, heat or pressure. Bleaching, Dyeing, Finishing • Textiles are washed and prepared for dye using water and chemical baths followed by heating or steaming. (Some of these treatments may also be used during yarn production.) Next the fabric may be printed or dyed, then fixed with dye stabilizers, flame retardants, antimicrobials, and other treatments. Assembly and Quality Control • Assembly includes fabric cutting, sewing, trimming and ironing of the finished garment. Finishes, such as bleaching or sandblasting for faded denim, may also be applied. Distribution and Retail • This stage includes logistics, transportation from assembly location to retail storage, packaging and marketing, store operating impacts, and/or direct shipping from warehouses to consumers. (Transportation from retail stores to consumers—such as direct shipping—is not reflected in the data below.) Use • Use includes consumer wear and care. It covers maintenance—cleaning, drying, ironing and storing—as well as repair. The garment may cycle over into being used again by another consumer via a direct secondhand donation or via thrift and consignment shops, or it may be used by multiple customers in a rental-based model. Collection and Sorting • Per a 2020 U.N. report, at most 1% of textiles is recycled back into clothing. Another 12% is used in products such as cleaning cloths, insulation material and mattress stuffing. There is a significant global trade of used garments for recycling, often ending up in locations without processing capacity. Landfilling, Waste to Energy • In the dominant linear garment pathway, most garments end up in a landfill or an incinerator plant after one or more uses. In a circular pathway, the textile would avoid this stage by being used for much longer or by more customers, upcycled into a new garment, or broken back down to the fiber level and spun anew. ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT Breaking down environmental impacts by stage allows for targeted reduction efforts. The values shown here, as published by the U.N. Environment Program, were calculated using a global baseline year of 2016. At that time, apparel was estimated to comprise 30% natural fibers and 70% human-made fibers. (Some categories, including water use, vary widely depending on fiber type and region.) Energy-intensive stages emerge as hotspots. Dyeing and finishing require large quantities of water and electricity for heating, as do washing and drying by individuals at the use stage. Variation resulting from regional laundry habits suggests that this is a pain point that consumers can influence directly. HUMAN IMPACT Garment manufacturing is a significant source of jobs for people around the world—particularly for women in low-income countries. It's also an industry rife with poor working conditions. The relative risk values shown here, published by the U.N. in 2020, were calculated for a hypothetical low-cost garment made from a cotton and polyester blend. Fiber production emerged as the stage that carries the highest levels of social risk. Further, 'the high social risks of fiber production are overwhelmingly due to natural fiber production ... [The values] are even more striking bearing in mind that these results are for a low-cost garment made up of 70% synthetic fibers and only 30% natural fibers.' TIPS FOR CONSUMERS Simply buying less stuff is the most impactful way to make more sustainable fashion choices and push back against the relentless consumerism perpetuated by the fast-fashion industry. But that doesn't mean never adding something new to your closet. Whether you are looking for a warm coat after moving to a cold climate, restocking your sock drawer, or sourcing an outfit from a vintage store for a special occasion, ask yourself whether the item truly fits you, functions in your wardrobe and will last. Evaluate the quality and seek information about production processes and sustainability policies. Brands are sensitive to customer demand, so use your power to advocate for change. Design and Concept • Look for specifics on the clothing brand's website about its sustainable-design ethos, including details about how it designs for garment longevity, durability and recyclability and for how it reduces waste and production im-pacts. Bonus points for brands that design for circular business models or directly provide repair, returns or recycling. Fiber Production • In many cases, organic or recycled materials have a smaller environmental impact than conventionally grown plant materials and newly created synthetics. But recycled products can have high social and labor risks. Get familiar with the coverage of different standards such as Better Cotton, Organic or Responsible Wool Standard. ITC and Textile Exchange both have rating systems for different schemes and branded materials. Often there isn't one ideal solution. If you focus on social issues, then choose Fairtrade; if you value veganism, then synthetic leather substitutes may be your priority even if they have large climate or chemical impacts. Try to find the 'best' available version of the fiber category. Rather than moving away from cotton altogether, for instance, choose highly sustainable or recycled cotton in place of conventional. Is there any evidence to support raw material claims, such as a Life Cycle Assessment? Terms like 'green' and 'natural' do not have a specific meaning. Try to substantiate words like 'recycled' by searching for the actual percentage of recycled material. Yarn Preparation (Spinning) • Spinning is one of many energy-intensive activities with the supply chain. Look for brands with a Scope 3 Science-Based climate target. If a company has an identified spinner list, it is also an indication it has put significant resources into its traceability and data-collection systems. Weaving, Knitting, Bonding • Bonded fabrics are less sustainable than woven or knitted ones but can be useful for specific technical purposes, such as water-proofing. They often contain PFAS, and as of 2025, clothing with PFAS is banned from sale in New York State and California. Waxed cotton canvas and boiled wool also provide water resistance. Bleaching, Dyeing, Finishing • Certifications such as GOTS or Oeko-Tex provide controls on the chemicals used in dyeing and finishing. Look for brands implementing water-management plans and applying chemical and wastewater controls such as those from ZDHC, or creating funding programs to help manufacturers and producers invest in renewable energy. Assembly and Quality Control • Faded or treated jeans have particularly high worker-health impacts and should be avoided. Look for labor plans aligned with programs such as ILO, Sedex or OECD. If this information is missing, ask the company questions on its social media—this puts pressure on companies for action and transparency. Distribution and Retail • If you are buying products new, don't create excessive transport impacts by purchasing and returning significant volumes of garments. Consider more circular options such as buying secondhand or vintage clothing or renting clothing for specific uses (look for sustainable solutions to the cleaning and transport of rented options). Use • To increase a garment's lifespan, follow the care instructions provided and repair damaged areas. Wash clothes less frequently and at lower temperatures or air-dry—which can reduce environmental impact. Avoid dry-cleaning. Microfiber filter products might also help reduce the impact of shedding from laundry. End of Life • Textiles in good condition should be sold, swapped or donated to optimize their use. For an unwearable item, can you repurpose it at home as a rag or drop cloth? If not, check whether you can recycle it at the store where you bought it (such as H&M or Patagonia). Or use a direct recycling solution such as Retold or a local collection facility. Aim for ones that speak to how they sort and recycle fabrics and avoid those that are not transparent about where waste goes. You don't want your clothes to become a burden on countries that receive high volumes of waste.

Forbes

05-06-2025

• Forbes

This New Effortlessly Chic And Inclusive Caftan Brand Will Be Your Summer Uniform

Models wearing Dianna Singh The Classic Caftan Life is better in a caftan. That's essentially Dianna Singh's motto. According to her philosophy, life is about to get a lot better for many people, thanks to her newly launched eponymous brand of caftans and matching sets. 'To me, a caftan is just the most joyful garment ever,' Singh says. 'I think it is scientifically impossible to be unhappy while you're wearing a caftan. What appeals to me about caftans and sets and anything that I'm making is that they are celebratory, they are non-exclusionary and they are statement making, but they're not fussy, and those are a lot of the same qualities that I love about beauty. So that is what brought me here.' A veteran beauty editor, Singh previously was on staff at InStyle and is currently the Features Director at Allure. She attended the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) with the intent to work in fashion but fell into the beauty world. 'I ended up staying there because I loved how joyful and celebratory it was, and the connectivity of it all,' she says. 'In my mind, there's always been a little voice that's said, 'what if you could bring that to fashion?' This feels like the vehicle to do that.' Dianna Singh wearing The Fancy Set True to her ethos, the entire Dianna Singh line is ebullient with a touch of whimsy. Don't expect any black or neutrals here—the line has a beautiful, bright color palette, featuring vibrant hues like Kelly green and tomato red caftans. The matching sets include the brand's cheery signature print and a classic lavender seersucker. Adding matching sets to the collection simply made sense. 'For those same reasons of caftans being cool and comfortable, easy-to-wear sets take the guesswork out of getting dressed, so they feel related to me in that way, in terms of ease, and you don't have to think about it,' Singh says. 'You put it on, you look good, you can go about your day. It gives options for folks who maybe aren't as familiar with the caftan world. It's a nice entry point as well; I suppose we can't wear caftans with absolutely everything, although I would argue you could. It adds a spice but still feels like it's that same core value.' Dianna Singh is a reflection of its founder's signature personal style. Unsurprisingly, Singh looked to her own closet while designing the collection. 'I've been collecting caftans for years,' she says. 'A pain point for me in collecting them has been the price point. There are a lot of great brands out there that are at a higher price point, and I certainly recognize that they're using handmade materials and perhaps they have hand-tied sequins and those details, and I certainly think there is a place for that. But in terms of those everyday, I want to feel really good in this, I could wear this to a wedding and dance in it kind of caftan, it was hard to find those. It's taken me years to amass my current caftan collection, so I figured I could take the guesswork out of that for folks.' Singh collects matching sets as well. Models in Dianna Singh The Swing Dress 'I love a great print,' Singh says. 'You can tell by my married name that my husband is Indian, and I really got into the Indian design world when I was working on planning our wedding a couple years back, and just fell in love with all the gorgeous prints and colors. That's reflected in the line as well.' Though Singh is clearly a dedicated caftan wearer, she is aware the silhouette can be overwhelming to some. That's why she shows plenty of ways to wear them on her social media platforms, including Instagram and TikTok. 'I want to show how people style and wear them in real life because it can be a little intimidating,' she says. 'It's more fabric than maybe people are used to wearing. I love a big, chunky earring. I love a little kitten heel to dress it up. The beauty of it, too, is if you want to ease into things, wear it as a beach cover up or by the pool, and get used to and get with the go the flow of it all. I was wearing one of our early samples on a dance floor at a wedding recently, and it just flows. It's hard to say no to; it's a very convincing garment. I don't do a belt typically, but you certainly could. Don't be surprised if the belt comes off by the end of the night; you'll be fully embracing it.' Singh had been dreaming of creating the line for years—she considers it a lifelong pursuit in many ways—and once she took action it took about a year to come to fruition. She started with mood boards, taking inspiration from Slim Aarons imagery from the 60s, with lounge-y poolside vibes top of mind. She brought those images, along with her own sketches, to her manufacturer. Models in Dianna Singh The Fancy Set and The Drawstring Dress 'I was lucky to be introduced to a manufacturer in India, and it felt like the stars aligned,' Singh says. 'That was a great partnership, and they've been lovely to work with, and it's great to know that the line is being made there. I'm excited to see the possibilities of the beadwork and fabrics that can be made there because the sky is the limit with their beautiful textiles.' Most of the textiles are sourced from India as well, and eventually they will be entirely. Inclusivity is also of the utmost important to Singh. 'One thing I love about the beauty world is the fact that it is non-exclusionary,' Singh says. 'Anyone can swipe on lipstick and that's something that I love about caftans too. At any body shape, at any body size, a caftan can work for you, and they grow with you. I've had a lot of folks reach out in the last couple days saying, 'I'm pregnant' or 'I'm going to be pregnant. Can I wear this?' Yes, it will grow with you. It might fit you a little differently, but the flexibility of the garments is so special and so universal.' To illustrate that size diversity, all of the models on and the social channels represent that. 'I want our models to reflect our world and you will always see a diverse range of models from us,' Singh says. 'Whatever size you are, I want you to look at our site and our social media and see yourself.' The Dianna Singh Bow Tie Caftan Dianna Singh is currently only direct to consumer, but Singh plans on doing trunk shows and expanding to select hotel boutiques, which is fitting given the nature of the line. 'Direct to consumer is a great fit for us right now so I can learn about our customer,' Singh says. 'I'm already seeing the orders roll in and what folks are gravitating towards, the sizes they're looking for, the questions they're asking. It's a great container for experimentation and figuring out next steps.' The brand is self-funded. 'I haven't received outside financial investment, but I'd be remiss not to mention the investment of time, advice and encouragement that I've received from many of my colleagues along the way,' Singh says. 'It was an investment to start it, but to be small and nimble, especially in the current climate, is an advantage. While we of course want to grow, right now we can use our size to our advantage.' With tariffs looming over many brands, Singh sees their small stature as a plus because they can react in real time. Dianna Singh in The Classic Caftan As the height of travel season commences, the launch timing isn't a coincidence. 'Caftans are certainly at their peak popularity in the summer,' Singh says. 'I am an advocate for caftans all year round, and I hope will convert a lot of folks into thinking the same way, but I do think the summer season is prime time. We've already heard from a lot of people who are headed off to places like Italy or Greece that they can't wait to wear their caftans there. They're also very packable. They might need a quick steam once they come out of your suitcase—because who doesn't after a long flight—but they are made to travel with.' This is just the beginning for Dianna Singh. She's considering expanding into knit sets and beyond. 'I'm excited to build relationships with our customers and follow their lead to perhaps other categories,' she says. 'I've had a few requests already for caftans for men and for children, so I'm listening. I'm hearing that a lot of folks like the idea of slipping on a little caftan on their mini me and matching, which I think is fun. Ultimately, I wouldn't rule out anything beauty related, maybe down the line; once a beauty editor, always a beauty editor. Obviously, I'm not a beauty brand, but I am armed with a lot of beauty knowledge and bringing that into fashion is a unique proposition, and I'm excited to see where it goes.'

Yahoo

29-05-2025

• Yahoo

Ohio man hopes to heal hurting hearts in wake of London tornado devastation

LONDON, Ky. (FOX 56) — Around the destroyed areas in London are spray-painted signs with messages of hope. The responsible man sits on Keavy Road, just steps away from the destruction of the tornado. He tips his cowboy hat to folks passing by. His name is David Graham, but he is better known as 'Cowboy Dave.' 'God has put on my heart to share people's burdens, and that's what I do,' he said. Cowboy Dave is the founder of Hearts Hurt. For more than 20 years, he's gone out to more than 40 natural disasters across the country, delivering supplies to people in need. Madisonville man accused of watching porn with 10-year-old in room University of Kentucky students release first-ever bourbon brand Temporary trailers arrive in London for displaced tornado survivors But more than that, he's acted as a friend and a source of support for people during the hardest times of their lives. 'Everyone has seen me since the first full day, and they'll see me for another 30 days,' he said. 'People might've wondered, is this guy homeless? Is he in town? Is he a contractor? Is he a lawyer? What's his deal? And eventually they come to realize Cowboy cares. I really do.' Next to his setup sits a row of white wooden crosses. They stand at about three feet tall. Each one has the name of a life taken by the tornado. 'It's about the people and the names on here. And the fact that not only did people die here, but people's spirits died here, and their hopes died here,' Cowboy Dave told FOX 56. Read more of the latest Kentucky news He said the crosses were put in place by people from North Carolina who were moved by the help they received from Kentuckians in the past after natural disasters of their own. Cowboy Dave said he's not going anywhere. 'I said I'm right here. If something blows down, a flag gets crooked, anything. If people need help, I will be here. I'll make sure until they take their cross away. I'll be here until the last cross is gone.' As the debris clears and headlines fade, Cowboy Dave will live up to the mission printed on the side of his truck: 'Hurting hearts do not have to hurt forever.' Copyright 2025 Nexstar Media, Inc. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.