
How to Be a Smarter Fashion Consumer in a World of Overstated Sustainability
Why is it so hard to cut through the greenwashing and overstated claims of the sustainable-clothing landscape? To start, the development, production and distribution of most garments are complex endeavors involving a global web of interconnected farmers, factories and traders, all supplying parts and processes to a huge number of brands and customers. Along that chain, there are many types of human and environmental impacts to consider. Some are challenging to measure, and some even 'trade off' against one another—for instance, recycled materials are good for resource use but are potentially more likely to increase microfiber shedding. Many standards, product innovations, materials and brands claim to have a lower impact—and many more companies share very little information. All of this makes it challenging for a consumer to make decisions while shopping.
This guide will help you understand the stages of clothing inception and production. It will let you better piece together clues for a given garment or company to figure out whether sustainability was a priority at different stages of the life cycle, in terms of both the environment and human rights. You'll learn key terms that are important for evaluating whether claims have evidence behind them. The guide will also point you to other resources that can help you cut through the noise and get clear guidance, including rating and information sites such as Good On You or reports such as the United Nations Environment Program road map.
Above all, the two simplest ways to participate in sustainable fashion are to buy less and to ask questions. Many people in developed countries significantly overconsume apparel. As clothing production has doubled, the number of times each item is worn or used has dropped by approximately 40 percent. Using, repairing or adapting what you already have; borrowing items; buying vintage or secondhand; or leasing from sustainable rental companies can all provide a low-impact alternative to purchasing new products. If you do want to buy new, ask the right questions: look for evidence to support claims, don't be fooled by terms such as 'natural,' and engage with companies directly to request more information and more sustainable processes and products. These actions alone, if done at scale, would have the power to change the fashion industry.
On supporting science journalism
If you're enjoying this article, consider supporting our award-winning journalism by subscribing. By purchasing a subscription you are helping to ensure the future of impactful stories about the discoveries and ideas shaping our world today.
WHAT YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT CLOTHING PRODUCTION
Here we break down the dominant linear pathway of garments, punctuated with details for each stage that impact sustainability from both a human-rights and an environmental point of view. For the most part, policymakers, corporations and designers are in the position to make the most substantive changes to each step—including by bending production flow to create a circular pathway. That said, consumers can use this knowledge to make informed decisions in support of sustainable practices.
Design and Concept • Material and construction-technique decisions—made by designers and fashion brands—influence the impact of production and the garment's lifespan. As fashion scholar Peggy Blum writes, 'Design is key in the shift to a circular fashion model, which requires greater focus on doing things 'right from the start.''
Raw Material Production • There are three primary fiber-source categories: natural fibers, natural polymers and synthetic polymers. For natural fibers, 'production' refers to cultivation or breeding. In the case of polymers, it refers to cellulose or oil extraction.
Material Processing and Sourcing • Raw materials must be processed or extracted before fiber preparation. This involves, for example, cotton baling and sheep shearing, as well as the transport of the materials. For synthetics, it involves the chemical production of specific polymers from the source ingredients to make, for instance, polyester chips.
Fiber Preparation • Fibers are aligned and elongated. In the case of cotton, a series of specialized machines pick fibers off bales, then clean and straighten them into long and loose untwisted strips. Synthetic polymers are extruded to create fibers.
Yarn Preparation (Spinning) • Spinning is the torsion process by which fibers are twisted into yarn. Short fibers (cotton and wool) are called staple fibers. Long fibers (silk and many synthetics) are called filaments; they generally require less processing at this stage. Different spinning methods yield different characteristics.
Weaving, Knitting, Bonding • Yarn is then manipulated into fabric. Woven fabrics are made of perpendicular and stable interlocking yarns. Knitted fabrics are made of stretchable, interlocking loops. Bonded fabrics are technical textiles in which fibers and/or fabrics are bound by adhesives, heat or pressure.
Bleaching, Dyeing, Finishing • Textiles are washed and prepared for dye using water and chemical baths followed by heating or steaming. (Some of these treatments may also be used during yarn production.) Next the fabric may be printed or dyed, then fixed with dye stabilizers, flame retardants, antimicrobials, and other treatments.
Assembly and Quality Control • Assembly includes fabric cutting, sewing, trimming and ironing of the finished garment. Finishes, such as bleaching or sandblasting for faded denim, may also be applied.
Distribution and Retail • This stage includes logistics, transportation from assembly location to retail storage, packaging and marketing, store operating impacts, and/or direct shipping from warehouses to consumers. (Transportation from retail stores to consumers—such as direct shipping—is not reflected in the data below.)
Use • Use includes consumer wear and care. It covers maintenance—cleaning, drying, ironing and storing—as well as repair. The garment may cycle over into being used again by another consumer via a direct secondhand donation or via thrift and consignment shops, or it may be used by multiple customers in a rental-based model.
Collection and Sorting • Per a 2020 U.N. report, at most 1% of textiles is recycled back into clothing. Another 12% is used in products such as cleaning cloths, insulation material and mattress stuffing. There is a significant global trade of used garments for recycling, often ending up in locations without processing capacity.
Landfilling, Waste to Energy • In the dominant linear garment pathway, most garments end up in a landfill or an incinerator plant after one or more uses. In a circular pathway, the textile would avoid this stage by being used for much longer or by more customers, upcycled into a new garment, or broken back down to the fiber level and spun anew.
ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT
Breaking down environmental impacts by stage allows for targeted reduction efforts. The values shown here, as published by the U.N. Environment Program, were calculated using a global baseline year of 2016. At that time, apparel was estimated to comprise 30% natural fibers and 70% human-made fibers. (Some categories, including water use, vary widely depending on fiber type and region.) Energy-intensive stages emerge as hotspots. Dyeing and finishing require large quantities of water and electricity for heating, as do washing and drying by individuals at the use stage. Variation resulting from regional laundry habits suggests that this is a pain point that consumers can influence directly.
HUMAN IMPACT
Garment manufacturing is a significant source of jobs for people around the world—particularly for women in low-income countries. It's also an industry rife with poor working conditions. The relative risk values shown here, published by the U.N. in 2020, were calculated for a hypothetical low-cost garment made from a cotton and polyester blend. Fiber production emerged as the stage that carries the highest levels of social risk. Further, 'the high social risks of fiber production are overwhelmingly due to natural fiber production ... [The values] are even more striking bearing in mind that these results are for a low-cost garment made up of 70% synthetic fibers and only 30% natural fibers.'
TIPS FOR CONSUMERS
Simply buying less stuff is the most impactful way to make more sustainable fashion choices and push back against the relentless consumerism perpetuated by the fast-fashion industry. But that doesn't mean never adding something new to your closet. Whether you are looking for a warm coat after moving to a cold climate, restocking your sock drawer, or sourcing an outfit from a vintage store for a special occasion, ask yourself whether the item truly fits you, functions in your wardrobe and will last. Evaluate the quality and seek information about production processes and sustainability policies. Brands are sensitive to customer demand, so use your power to advocate for change.
Design and Concept • Look for specifics on the clothing brand's website about its sustainable-design ethos, including details about how it designs for garment longevity, durability and recyclability and for how it reduces waste and production im-pacts. Bonus points for brands that design for circular business models or directly provide repair, returns or recycling.
Fiber Production • In many cases, organic or recycled materials have a smaller environmental impact than conventionally grown plant materials and newly created synthetics. But recycled products can have high social and labor risks. Get familiar with the coverage of different standards such as Better Cotton, Organic or Responsible Wool Standard. ITC and Textile Exchange both have rating systems for different schemes and branded materials. Often there isn't one ideal solution. If you focus on social issues, then choose Fairtrade; if you value veganism, then synthetic leather substitutes may be your priority even if they have large climate or chemical impacts. Try to find the 'best' available version of the fiber category. Rather than moving away from cotton altogether, for instance, choose highly sustainable or recycled cotton in place of conventional. Is there any evidence to support raw material claims, such as a Life Cycle Assessment? Terms like 'green' and 'natural' do not have a specific meaning. Try to substantiate words like 'recycled' by searching for the actual percentage of recycled material.
Yarn Preparation (Spinning) • Spinning is one of many energy-intensive activities with the supply chain. Look for brands with a Scope 3 Science-Based climate target. If a company has an identified spinner list, it is also an indication it has put significant resources into its traceability and data-collection systems.
Weaving, Knitting, Bonding • Bonded fabrics are less sustainable than woven or knitted ones but can be useful for specific technical purposes, such as water-proofing. They often contain PFAS, and as of 2025, clothing with PFAS is banned from sale in New York State and California. Waxed cotton canvas and boiled wool also provide water resistance.
Bleaching, Dyeing, Finishing • Certifications such as GOTS or Oeko-Tex provide controls on the chemicals used in dyeing and finishing. Look for brands implementing water-management plans and applying chemical and wastewater controls such as those from ZDHC, or creating funding programs to help manufacturers and producers invest in renewable energy.
Assembly and Quality Control • Faded or treated jeans have particularly high worker-health impacts and should be avoided. Look for labor plans aligned with programs such as ILO, Sedex or OECD. If this information is missing, ask the company questions on its social media—this puts pressure on companies for action and transparency.
Distribution and Retail • If you are buying products new, don't create excessive transport impacts by purchasing and returning significant volumes of garments. Consider more circular options such as buying secondhand or vintage clothing or renting clothing for specific uses (look for sustainable solutions to the cleaning and transport of rented options).
Use • To increase a garment's lifespan, follow the care instructions provided and repair damaged areas. Wash clothes less frequently and at lower temperatures or air-dry—which can reduce environmental impact. Avoid dry-cleaning. Microfiber filter products might also help reduce the impact of shedding from laundry.
End of Life • Textiles in good condition should be sold, swapped or donated to optimize their use. For an unwearable item, can you repurpose it at home as a rag or drop cloth? If not, check whether you can recycle it at the store where you bought it (such as H&M or Patagonia). Or use a direct recycling solution such as Retold or a local collection facility. Aim for ones that speak to how they sort and recycle fabrics and avoid those that are not transparent about where waste goes. You don't want your clothes to become a burden on countries that receive high volumes of waste.

Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles


Scientific American
6 days ago
- Scientific American
How to Be a Smarter Fashion Consumer in a World of Overstated Sustainability
Why is it so hard to cut through the greenwashing and overstated claims of the sustainable-clothing landscape? To start, the development, production and distribution of most garments are complex endeavors involving a global web of interconnected farmers, factories and traders, all supplying parts and processes to a huge number of brands and customers. Along that chain, there are many types of human and environmental impacts to consider. Some are challenging to measure, and some even 'trade off' against one another—for instance, recycled materials are good for resource use but are potentially more likely to increase microfiber shedding. Many standards, product innovations, materials and brands claim to have a lower impact—and many more companies share very little information. All of this makes it challenging for a consumer to make decisions while shopping. This guide will help you understand the stages of clothing inception and production. It will let you better piece together clues for a given garment or company to figure out whether sustainability was a priority at different stages of the life cycle, in terms of both the environment and human rights. You'll learn key terms that are important for evaluating whether claims have evidence behind them. The guide will also point you to other resources that can help you cut through the noise and get clear guidance, including rating and information sites such as Good On You or reports such as the United Nations Environment Program road map. Above all, the two simplest ways to participate in sustainable fashion are to buy less and to ask questions. Many people in developed countries significantly overconsume apparel. As clothing production has doubled, the number of times each item is worn or used has dropped by approximately 40 percent. Using, repairing or adapting what you already have; borrowing items; buying vintage or secondhand; or leasing from sustainable rental companies can all provide a low-impact alternative to purchasing new products. If you do want to buy new, ask the right questions: look for evidence to support claims, don't be fooled by terms such as 'natural,' and engage with companies directly to request more information and more sustainable processes and products. These actions alone, if done at scale, would have the power to change the fashion industry. On supporting science journalism If you're enjoying this article, consider supporting our award-winning journalism by subscribing. By purchasing a subscription you are helping to ensure the future of impactful stories about the discoveries and ideas shaping our world today. WHAT YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT CLOTHING PRODUCTION Here we break down the dominant linear pathway of garments, punctuated with details for each stage that impact sustainability from both a human-rights and an environmental point of view. For the most part, policymakers, corporations and designers are in the position to make the most substantive changes to each step—including by bending production flow to create a circular pathway. That said, consumers can use this knowledge to make informed decisions in support of sustainable practices. Design and Concept • Material and construction-technique decisions—made by designers and fashion brands—influence the impact of production and the garment's lifespan. As fashion scholar Peggy Blum writes, 'Design is key in the shift to a circular fashion model, which requires greater focus on doing things 'right from the start.'' Raw Material Production • There are three primary fiber-source categories: natural fibers, natural polymers and synthetic polymers. For natural fibers, 'production' refers to cultivation or breeding. In the case of polymers, it refers to cellulose or oil extraction. Material Processing and Sourcing • Raw materials must be processed or extracted before fiber preparation. This involves, for example, cotton baling and sheep shearing, as well as the transport of the materials. For synthetics, it involves the chemical production of specific polymers from the source ingredients to make, for instance, polyester chips. Fiber Preparation • Fibers are aligned and elongated. In the case of cotton, a series of specialized machines pick fibers off bales, then clean and straighten them into long and loose untwisted strips. Synthetic polymers are extruded to create fibers. Yarn Preparation (Spinning) • Spinning is the torsion process by which fibers are twisted into yarn. Short fibers (cotton and wool) are called staple fibers. Long fibers (silk and many synthetics) are called filaments; they generally require less processing at this stage. Different spinning methods yield different characteristics. Weaving, Knitting, Bonding • Yarn is then manipulated into fabric. Woven fabrics are made of perpendicular and stable interlocking yarns. Knitted fabrics are made of stretchable, interlocking loops. Bonded fabrics are technical textiles in which fibers and/or fabrics are bound by adhesives, heat or pressure. Bleaching, Dyeing, Finishing • Textiles are washed and prepared for dye using water and chemical baths followed by heating or steaming. (Some of these treatments may also be used during yarn production.) Next the fabric may be printed or dyed, then fixed with dye stabilizers, flame retardants, antimicrobials, and other treatments. Assembly and Quality Control • Assembly includes fabric cutting, sewing, trimming and ironing of the finished garment. Finishes, such as bleaching or sandblasting for faded denim, may also be applied. Distribution and Retail • This stage includes logistics, transportation from assembly location to retail storage, packaging and marketing, store operating impacts, and/or direct shipping from warehouses to consumers. (Transportation from retail stores to consumers—such as direct shipping—is not reflected in the data below.) Use • Use includes consumer wear and care. It covers maintenance—cleaning, drying, ironing and storing—as well as repair. The garment may cycle over into being used again by another consumer via a direct secondhand donation or via thrift and consignment shops, or it may be used by multiple customers in a rental-based model. Collection and Sorting • Per a 2020 U.N. report, at most 1% of textiles is recycled back into clothing. Another 12% is used in products such as cleaning cloths, insulation material and mattress stuffing. There is a significant global trade of used garments for recycling, often ending up in locations without processing capacity. Landfilling, Waste to Energy • In the dominant linear garment pathway, most garments end up in a landfill or an incinerator plant after one or more uses. In a circular pathway, the textile would avoid this stage by being used for much longer or by more customers, upcycled into a new garment, or broken back down to the fiber level and spun anew. ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT Breaking down environmental impacts by stage allows for targeted reduction efforts. The values shown here, as published by the U.N. Environment Program, were calculated using a global baseline year of 2016. At that time, apparel was estimated to comprise 30% natural fibers and 70% human-made fibers. (Some categories, including water use, vary widely depending on fiber type and region.) Energy-intensive stages emerge as hotspots. Dyeing and finishing require large quantities of water and electricity for heating, as do washing and drying by individuals at the use stage. Variation resulting from regional laundry habits suggests that this is a pain point that consumers can influence directly. HUMAN IMPACT Garment manufacturing is a significant source of jobs for people around the world—particularly for women in low-income countries. It's also an industry rife with poor working conditions. The relative risk values shown here, published by the U.N. in 2020, were calculated for a hypothetical low-cost garment made from a cotton and polyester blend. Fiber production emerged as the stage that carries the highest levels of social risk. Further, 'the high social risks of fiber production are overwhelmingly due to natural fiber production ... [The values] are even more striking bearing in mind that these results are for a low-cost garment made up of 70% synthetic fibers and only 30% natural fibers.' TIPS FOR CONSUMERS Simply buying less stuff is the most impactful way to make more sustainable fashion choices and push back against the relentless consumerism perpetuated by the fast-fashion industry. But that doesn't mean never adding something new to your closet. Whether you are looking for a warm coat after moving to a cold climate, restocking your sock drawer, or sourcing an outfit from a vintage store for a special occasion, ask yourself whether the item truly fits you, functions in your wardrobe and will last. Evaluate the quality and seek information about production processes and sustainability policies. Brands are sensitive to customer demand, so use your power to advocate for change. Design and Concept • Look for specifics on the clothing brand's website about its sustainable-design ethos, including details about how it designs for garment longevity, durability and recyclability and for how it reduces waste and production im-pacts. Bonus points for brands that design for circular business models or directly provide repair, returns or recycling. Fiber Production • In many cases, organic or recycled materials have a smaller environmental impact than conventionally grown plant materials and newly created synthetics. But recycled products can have high social and labor risks. Get familiar with the coverage of different standards such as Better Cotton, Organic or Responsible Wool Standard. ITC and Textile Exchange both have rating systems for different schemes and branded materials. Often there isn't one ideal solution. If you focus on social issues, then choose Fairtrade; if you value veganism, then synthetic leather substitutes may be your priority even if they have large climate or chemical impacts. Try to find the 'best' available version of the fiber category. Rather than moving away from cotton altogether, for instance, choose highly sustainable or recycled cotton in place of conventional. Is there any evidence to support raw material claims, such as a Life Cycle Assessment? Terms like 'green' and 'natural' do not have a specific meaning. Try to substantiate words like 'recycled' by searching for the actual percentage of recycled material. Yarn Preparation (Spinning) • Spinning is one of many energy-intensive activities with the supply chain. Look for brands with a Scope 3 Science-Based climate target. If a company has an identified spinner list, it is also an indication it has put significant resources into its traceability and data-collection systems. Weaving, Knitting, Bonding • Bonded fabrics are less sustainable than woven or knitted ones but can be useful for specific technical purposes, such as water-proofing. They often contain PFAS, and as of 2025, clothing with PFAS is banned from sale in New York State and California. Waxed cotton canvas and boiled wool also provide water resistance. Bleaching, Dyeing, Finishing • Certifications such as GOTS or Oeko-Tex provide controls on the chemicals used in dyeing and finishing. Look for brands implementing water-management plans and applying chemical and wastewater controls such as those from ZDHC, or creating funding programs to help manufacturers and producers invest in renewable energy. Assembly and Quality Control • Faded or treated jeans have particularly high worker-health impacts and should be avoided. Look for labor plans aligned with programs such as ILO, Sedex or OECD. If this information is missing, ask the company questions on its social media—this puts pressure on companies for action and transparency. Distribution and Retail • If you are buying products new, don't create excessive transport impacts by purchasing and returning significant volumes of garments. Consider more circular options such as buying secondhand or vintage clothing or renting clothing for specific uses (look for sustainable solutions to the cleaning and transport of rented options). Use • To increase a garment's lifespan, follow the care instructions provided and repair damaged areas. Wash clothes less frequently and at lower temperatures or air-dry—which can reduce environmental impact. Avoid dry-cleaning. Microfiber filter products might also help reduce the impact of shedding from laundry. End of Life • Textiles in good condition should be sold, swapped or donated to optimize their use. For an unwearable item, can you repurpose it at home as a rag or drop cloth? If not, check whether you can recycle it at the store where you bought it (such as H&M or Patagonia). Or use a direct recycling solution such as Retold or a local collection facility. Aim for ones that speak to how they sort and recycle fabrics and avoid those that are not transparent about where waste goes. You don't want your clothes to become a burden on countries that receive high volumes of waste.


Forbes
18-04-2025
- Forbes
The Hidden Crisis Of Fashion: Climate, Water & Microplastic Impact
Pile of old clothes and shoes dumped on the grass as junk and garbage, littering and polluting the ... More environment In Beyond the Price Tag: The Dark Side of Luxury and Circular Fashion, the darker undercurrents of the fashion industry were examined. Now, we go deeper into one of its most pressing impacts: pollution. From carbon emissions to synthetic fiber runoff, the environmental cost of our closets is growing—fast. According to the United Nations Environment Program, the fashion industry is responsible for about 10% of global carbon emissions, more than international flights and maritime shipping combined. The United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change estimates that by 2030, fashion's emissions could increase by 50% if no action is taken. This makes the sector one of the highest-emitting global industries—and among the least regulated in climate conversations. Yet despite this outsized footprint, fashion remains one of the least scrutinized sectors in climate policy discussions. The United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change estimates that if current production and consumption patterns continue unchecked, the industry's emissions could rise by 50% by 2030. According to data from the EU, 20% of global industrial water pollution comes from textile dyeing and treatment. In countries like Bangladesh and India, factories release untreated wastewater laden with toxic chemicals like chromium, lead, and mercury directly into rivers. According to the Waste Management, many factories operating without adequate regulation in regions where there are limited restrictions—discharge millions of liters of untreated, chemically saturated wastewater daily into rivers that serve as lifelines for local communities. According to the World Bank, toxic effluents from dyes and finishing agents contain carcinogens and heavy metals such as chromium, cadmium, lead, arsenic and mercury, contaminating drinking water sources, destroying aquatic ecosystems, and poisoning farmland. In Bangladesh's Buriganga River, for instance, once a source of freshwater and food, dissolved oxygen levels have dropped to near-zero in some areas, turning the river into a biological dead zone due to lack of life, according to Al Jazeera. What makes the impact even more alarming is that the fashion industry consumes 93 billion cubic meters of water annually, according to the United Nations—enough to meet the needs of five million people per year. This means that while some parts of the world experience water scarcity, vast amounts of clean water are being polluted or depleted to keep the fashion engine running. Indonesia environment water pollution fashionROMEO GACAD/AFP via Getty Images) According to the International Union for Conservation of Nature, 35% of microplastics in the ocean come from synthetic textiles like polyester, nylon, and acrylic. These fibers shed during washing and find their way into marine food chains. According to the Journal of Hazardous Materials, plastic pollution has rapidly escalated into one of the planet's most pressing environmental challenges. As the global population continues to grow, so does the demand for plastic—driving annual production to a staggering 430 million tons. Alarmingly, around 11 million tons of this plastic find their way into the ocean each year. Without strategic global action, this figure could triple in the coming decades, threatening marine ecosystems, endangering wildlife, and impacting the millions of people who rely on the ocean for food, income, and survival. A 2018 study published in Environmental Pollution Microplastics and microfibers have been detected across every major ocean basin, underscoring the pervasive nature of this form of pollution. Among these, microfibers—tiny threads often shed from synthetic textiles—rank among the most frequently found micropollutants along coastal shorelines worldwide. Fashion may be a symbol of expression, but in it lies a pattern of destruction—one that is polluting our waters, and threatening life below the surface. According to leading experts and global data, the fashion industry is not only a top emitter of carbon, but also a silent force behind poisoned rivers and the invisible spread of microplastics. From the synthetic fibers that shed into our oceans, to the billions of liters of chemically treated water dumped into once-thriving ecosystems, the price of fashion extends far beyond stores. Yet the industry continues to operate in a vacuum—underregulated, underreported, and under pressure only from the voices of those brave enough to speak up. Experts like Dr. Hakan Karaosman are helping lead that charge, pushing for full-spectrum sustainability that incorporates environmental ethics into every tier of the supply chain—from design studio to dye house. If we are to create meaningful change, this moment must spark more than awareness. It must spark accountability. Fashion must transition from a model of unchecked consumption to one of conscious creation. In the next article in this series, we will unravel the environmental and ethical toll of fashion waste. From mountains of discarded garments in Chile's Atacama Desert to the global dumping of secondhand clothing in Accra. We will also assess how the industry is exporting its trash—and its effects on the most vulnerable communities.
Yahoo
16-01-2025
- Yahoo
Experts are sounding the alarm on a concerning trend with clothing fabrics: 'Not one that's sustainable'
If you've ever found yourself involuntarily participating in the sheer clothing trend, you're not alone. Unfortunately, as Slate examines, this frustrating experience is becoming more common, and the pattern has experts sounding the alarm. You're not imagining it: Finding the perfect white T-shirt is becoming harder than ever before, as Slate points out. That's because fabric weight is on the decline. "The 'heavy' T-shirts might have weighed 8 to 10 ounces per square yard of fabric," University of Kentucky textile chemist Elizabeth Easter told the publication of clothing production 20 years ago. "Today, we see half that." "Pretty much everything is lighter and thinner," Fashion Institute of Technology professor of textiles Sean Cormier affirmed, explaining that a square yard of fabric in chinos used to weigh around eight ounces. Now, that number is closer to six. The thinner the garment, the shorter its lifespan, as Cormier explained to Slate, noting that "it's a trend in the industry, and not one that's sustainable." Cormier added that clothing brands have fewer fabric options in modern production because factories control their supply. Nonetheless, many companies still opt for fabrics that will maximize their profits. While a brand may sell an item at a low price, consumers will ultimately pay more in the long run because they need to replace their apparel sooner rather than later. "If somebody had made a better fabric selection, you could have worn it a lot longer," Cormier pointed out. Sadly, not only is this a drain on the wallet, but it's also a significant burden on the environment — and a public health concern. According to around 60% of clothing is made with plastic-based fabrics. At each stage of its lifecycle, plastic-based apparel can shed microplastics, which scientific studies have linked to severe complications like cancer and dementia. All in all, a throwaway culture has resulted in more than 101 million tons of textiles ending up in dumps annually, as the average time a garment is worn has dipped by 36% over the past 15 years. The American Society for Testing and Materials issues standards for material performance, but Cormier explained to Slate that fashion companies aren't required to implement them. However, that doesn't mean you need to throw up your hands in defeat. You can use your purchasing power to support brands that are doing more than giving lip service to sustainability. Good on You is one online resource that can help you find eco-conscious companies committed to quality. Meanwhile, thrifting is an affordable way to keep your wardrobe up-to-date and perhaps score a rare vintage item at a steep discount. Join our free newsletter for good news and useful tips, and don't miss this cool list of easy ways to help yourself while helping the planet.