Everything I ate during a weekend pintxos hopping in San Sebastián
San Sebastián is the crown jewel of the Basque region that runs along Spain's dazzling northern coast. It's a beach town turned Michelin hotspot with world-class cuisine — seriously, wear loose trousers.
The city, known as Donostia in Basque, lies on the Bay of Biscay, its Old Town flanked by two sandy beaches, where you'll find streets filled with photogenic bars serving up mouthwatering local tapas and cider.
San Sebastián started life as a fishing village in 1180, and enjoyed a revival as a seasonal holiday spot in the 19th-century, when Queen Isabel II chose it as her summer residence.
This is a place rich in history and scenery, with sweeping views of La Concha beach best enjoyed from high atop Monte Igueldo.
Its winding streets come alive each September for the San Sebastián International Film Festival, but its star quality is, undisputedly, the food.
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With the second-most Michelin stars per capita and an enviable claim to the title of most bars per person, this is a destination for people who eat differently.
The Basques even have a name for it: pintxo , aka hopping from bar to bar and sampling bite-size bits of culinary art.
Fresh from a flying visit to the place known as Europe's most beautiful bay, here's everywhere I ate, and alternative things to do, in fabulous San Sebastián.
San Sebastián's status as a contemporary food stop can be traced to the late Anthony Bourdain, who visited the city three times for his shows A Cook's Tour, No Reservations, and Parts Unknown.
He spoke of the deep connection between cuisine and community, emphasising that meals are less about food, more about bringing people together. Bourdain made several repeat visits to restaurants across the city, something he rarely did.
All of that said, ordering at a pintxos bar is not for the meek.
Not only will you struggle to find an English menu at more old-school spots, you'll need to claim your space at the counter — make yourself known when you want to order, just as Bourdain would have done.
Etiquette is everything, so move along swiftly once you've hoovered down your grub. Otherwise, you're at risk of attracting a brusque 'vamos!' from over your shoulder.
The bars are set up so you order a pintxos (pronounced 'peen-chos') or two alongside a drink, at just a few euros each.
They're essentially a small snack, typically served on a piece of bread and skewered with a toothpick. From anchovies and olives to jamon and seafood, the variety is astounding.
Each bar is generally known for one particular pintxos, be it the fois gras or urchin cream at Bar Sport, grilled mushrooms with egg yolk from Ganbara, or anchovies at Bar Txepetxa.
More popular spots will be crowded with tourists and locals alike; be prepared for a lot of shouting and pointing.
It's almost like a sport, and the best thing to do is lean in and resign yourself to the chaos.
While pintxos is designed to be eaten quickly, some bars have seating and in the case of La Cuchara De San Telmo, it's worth planning ahead to nab one of its four tables for the evening session.
Having seen a lot of recommendations for this place on TikTok and beyond, we knew it would be a fight for the bar.
Arriving 20 minutes before doors opened for dinner, we scored ourselves a spot outside, where we could spend a little longer enjoying glasses of red at €2.80 (£2.30) a pop and trying its specialties without getting an elbow in the ribs from other diners.
Runaway winners were the suckling pig (€19, £16.10), expertly seasoned steak (€17, £14.40), salty, oiled peppers (€9, £7.60) and oreja de cerdo aka pig's ear (€14, £11.80).
Don't knock it, it's delicious and looks more like a folded omelette than animal anatomy.
While most of the famous pintxos spots are confined to the walls of the Old Town, a short walk opens up another realm of amazing eats.
To the east of the Old Town is the Gros neighbourhood, where you'll find local-approved spots such as the unpretentious Ricardo Taberna.
Here you'll be joined by old, suntanned men yelling at TV screens and punters enjoying a drink outside. Two ciders, two croquettes and a slice of the most delicious cod tortilla set me back €11.30 (£9.50).
A street away is Casa Galicia, where a plate of paprika-seasoned Octopus will relieve you of only €4 (£3.30). Get two.
The region is known for its cider (or cidre ), and a 10-minute taxi from San Sebastián's centre will take you to Astigarraga, the home of the drink.
Book a long lunch at one of these cider houses before you visit and you're guaranteed an incredible afternoon.
We took a table at Astarbe Sagardotegia, a cider house that's been in operation since 1563, with the 15th-generation producing the latest bottles while the kitchen turns out velvety T-bone steaks and cod omelettes.
Once you take your seat, you're handed a glass and, without invitation, you can make your way to a small room with several giant barrels filled with various ciders.
There you'll be met by a trained txotxero (or cider master), who uses a key to open one of the barrels as a stream of golden liquid arcs out, ready to be caught by your outstretched glass.
Don't be alarmed if you get more on the ground than in your glass on the first attempt.
San Sebastián may be known for pintxos, but that doesn't mean you should sleep on its desserts.
The creamed buns of Otaegui patisserie will set you back €2.25 (£1.90), so it's financially prudentto indulge.
We walked along munching slabs of its hazelnut-laden milk and dark chocolate, snapped into sizes of your choosing and paid by the weight.
Basque cheesecake is a speciality of the region, and La Vina's claim to fame is that it was the first to make it.
Despite its newfound popularity on TikTok, it's well worth a visit, but there is no need to wait longer than 20 minutes.
We went at 9pm when it was arguably at peak service, and were hastily ushered in to find any available space and force our way to the bar. Politely, of course.
At a time when few things live up to expectation, a slice of this dessert truly is worth the hype.
Each forkful delivers a masterpiece of creamy, soft wonder. It was so good it felt wrong to wolf it down in the hotel room, and I wanted to return several times over my few days in the city. One set me back €6.50 (£5.50).
Fed, watered and bursting at the seams, a short funicular ride will bring you to Monte Igueldo, where you're rewarded with breathtaking views of the region. More Trending
There's a hotel and a restaurant should you want a wine, but the fun is the small amusement fair which runs on the mountain.
From a slightly questionable Casa Del Terror to the Mysterious River ride along a narrow waterway, there's plenty to entertain kids and big kids alike.
While the Old Town is brimming with cultural history, the new town boasts a shopping district that will challenge you not to burn serious cash.
From high street stores like Zara and Mango, to Sephora and a range of Spanish designers including Bimba Y Lola, there's something to suit every taste after a long day of eating.
Getting to San Sebastián
There are no direct flights from the UK to San Sebastián, but you can fly to nearby airports like Bilbao, then take a bus or train.
From Bilbao, the bus is around 1.5 hours and will set you back anywhere from £7 to £17, depending on the operator.
Vueling flies direct from London Gatwick to Bilbao with flights starting from £43.
Where to stay
Best value: Okako, located in Gros, is stylish in its simplicity and only a 15-minute walk from the Old Town and only 10 from Zurriola beach. Perfect for those who 'don't spend any time in the hotel room anyway' but still appreciate the touches of a coffee machine and a fruit bowl with muffins, single rooms start at €99 (£83.90) a night.
Best splurge: If you want to splash out, Hotel Maria Cristina, located in between the old and new towns, was designed in 1912 by the same architect behind the Ritz in Paris. Now owned by the Marriott chain, expect total 5-star luxury. Of course, that comes at a cost, with lower rate rooms in June available for £641 per night.
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