How To Apply Foundation On Mature Skin, According To A Makeup Artist
A flawless foundation finish on mature skin? It's within reach, says celebrity makeup artist Rae Morris. The best-selling author and founder of her eponymous makeup brush line shares her top tips.
Foundation formulas have come a long way since the thick, gluggy kind that mask features rather than celebrate them.
Today's top picks go a step further by moving into hybrid territory, with many products moonlighting as skincare thanks to a suite of hydrating ingredients that prioritise skin health as much as they do a flawless finish.
However, the skin changes that come with ageing can mean base products that once promised an airbrushed finish now sit or settle in fine lines.
Not something to be feared but celebrated, Australian makeup artist Rae Morris says evolving our makeup routines to suit the changing needs of mature skin isn't as tricky as some think.
'Mature skin is one of the most beautiful canvases to work on, and with the right preparation and products, it can absolutely glow,' says Rae, who has spent the better part of 25 years creating her signature glowy look on women of every age.
Below, she shares her top tips on how to achieve a hydrated, glowing foundation finish on mature skin types with ease.
1. Hydration is everything
No matter your age, skincare preparation will always be key to giving your makeup the best chance – meaning foundation sits nicely on top of skin, rather than sinking into it.
'Skin should feel plump and juicy before makeup even touches it,' Rae says.
It's natural to experience a drop in collagen, elasticity and moisture as we age, so combatting this with a dose of hydration will always prove an important first step, she adds.
Rich serums, moisturisers and facial oils do the trick, and even the way in which you massage them into skin can help boost radiance and glow.
Consider Charlotte Tilbury Charlotte's Magic Cream, $192, a plumping moisturiser that's long been a backstage favourite, or the L'Oreal Revitalift Filler Plumping Water Cream, $54, which contains micro-particles of hyaluronic acid to re-plump fine lines and wrinkles.
2. Use a brush, not a sponge
For an even, natural finish, Rae recommends using makeup brushes rather than sponges to apply your foundation.
'Sponges aren't suitable for mature skin as they don't blend well around fine lines,' she says.
'A great brush will buff foundation into the skin, making it look seamless and almost invisible. It melts the product in and gives you that smooth, flawless finish.'
Foundation can be applied directly to brush hairs and swirled on to skin, helping to create that polished, airbrushed finish.
Rae says her 'holy grail' of brushes is the Rae Morris Radiance #26, $194, a micro crystal fibre brush, which picks up and evenly disperses liquid, cream and powder formulations with ease.
Otherwise, consider the Mecca Cosmetica All Over Buffing Brush, $44, an ultra-soft brush perfect for buffing in liquid or cream foundation.
3. Forgo glitter textures
While we all know how much fun glitter can be, Rae says to exercise caution when it comes to using anything too sparkly on mature skin.
'Anything with shimmer or sparkle can highlight fine lines, pores, or texture – especially in daylight. This includes primers, foundations, and highlighters,' she says.
Instead, Rae recommends reaching for hydrating, glow-giving formulas that rely on moisture (not shimmer) to deliver on radiance.
For a glow-boosting primer, look no further than M.A.C Studio Radiance Moisturising & Illuminating Silky Primer, $77, which lends a luminous finish to skin – meaning it's perfectly prepped for the makeup steps to follow.
4. Choose skin-enhancing foundations
Rae recommends selecting skin-enhancing foundations or BB creams to help even out skin tone, hydrate, and leave skin with a fresh glow without the weight of full-coverage foundations.
Her top picks for mature skin?
She loves the lightweight, buildable coverage of Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk Foundation, $132, which leaves a radiant finish on all skin types. 'It's iconic for a reason,' she says.
Otherwise, Rae reaches for the Shiseido Synchro Skin Self-Refreshing Foundation, $81, which harnesses the brand's own ActiveForce+ technology to resist heat, humidity, oil and prevent creasing all day long. 'It's great for a more velvety, long-wear option.' .
5. Highlight with cream, not powder
'Put down the shimmer powders,' says Rae, adding that creamy highlights look softer and more natural on mature skin, working gently to hydrate and reflect the light.
'Think balms and glosses on cheekbones and temples to give you a dewy, healthy sheen that looks real – not sparkly.'
Rae loves Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream Skin Protectant, $45, a multi-use cream that works wonders on cuticles, dry spots, chapped lips, and even can be daubed on over makeup in lieu of highlighter.
6. Don't forget the décolletage
'This area shows signs of ageing just like the face and is so often forgotten,' Rae says, adding she loves buffing foundation or bronzing body product on the chest.
Her secret weapon is the Sally Hansen Airbrush Legs, $25, which Rae says 'works brilliantly' when applied with a brush over the décolletage.
'It doesn't transfer and gives that golden-skin effect,' she says.
Tanning drops are also a go-to for Rae, which impart a soft, sun-kissed warmth that ties everything together. Consider the MCo Beauty Self-Tanning Drops For Face & Body, $31.
7. Avoid matte heavy powders
Tread lightly when it comes to powder, as over-mattifying skin can serve to accentuate fine lines or wrinkles.
It can still be your friend, but just be mindful of where you put it – a sheer, light-reflecting powder dusted over the T-zone is enough to set your foundation.
Consider the Laura Mercier Translucent Loose Setting Powder, $85.
Don't like loose powder? No problem – the Rae Morris Invisible Mattifier, $78, is a clear, gel-like powder that can be pressed on to skin using fingers or a small buffing brush to remove unwanted shine (and lasts longer than powder).
'It is completely undetectable no matter your skin tone,' Rae says.
CREDITS
Photographer / Hone Hernandez
Models / Trish Clapham from Silver Fox Management
Hairstylist / Michael Beel
Makeup artist / Shirley Simpson for Aleph Beauty
Stylist / Annabel Dickson
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