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Hindustan Times

The history of Maheshwari sarees: Weaving 5000-year-old heritage on the banks of the Narmada

Set along the serene banks of the Narmada River in Madhya Pradesh, the historic town of Maheshwar, graced by the majestic Ahilya Fort, resonates with the rhythmic clatter of looms and echoes of a 5,000-year-old heritage. It is here that the renowned Maheshwari saree was born, a hand loom masterpiece that weaves together the legacy of its people, palace, and timeless past. Wandering through the ghats of Maheshwar, you'll hear a gentle, rhythmic tapping, the clack of wooden shuttles echoing from homes and workshops alike. These are the sound of looms, worked by skilled artisans who work day in and out to make these gorgeous Maheshwari sarees. Maheshwar became known for its beautiful textiles in the 18th century when Queen Ahilyabai Holkar, a famous Maratha queen, invited skilled weavers from Surat and South India to start weaving in her capital. Her dream was not just to revive the local economy, but to create a textile that reflected the elegance of her court and the serenity of the Narmada. Thus, was born the Maheshwari saree, light as a whisper, bold in design, and eternal in style. Each saree was originally woven with cotton and silk, adorned with motifs inspired by the temples, ghats, and the undulating waves of the sacred river. Even today, the leheriya (wave), chatai (mat), and phool (flower) patterns whisper of Maheshwar's architectural splendour. What sets Maheshwari sarees apart is their lightweight drape, typically woven in cotton and silk blends, and their distinctive borders made from Zari, in elegant shades of peacock blue, parrot green, deep maroon, and gold. Hasmad Ansari and Asim Ansari, both father and son, respectively, have been in the business of making Maheshwari sarees for over 40 years now. What was carried out by the father of Mr Hasmad Ansari, is now being carried out by his son gracefully. While talking to the Ansari family, I came to know that ever since they have started the family business, there has been no looking back. Asim Ansari told HT Lifestyle, 'We set up the weaving loom at our house. Everything - right from sourcing the raw materials to weaving - happens at one place'. Setting up the loom required initial hard work and investment and once the business started growing, they set up 200 looms along with a team of over 200 weavers. Manubai Kevat, a lady in her mid-50s, has been weaving sarees for almost 30 years now. She says weaving helps her earn so she can take care of her family, including a son, daughter-in-law, and her paralysed husband. Abdul Ansari and Nazar Ansari, two brothers who run their own handloom, say they have been running their looms for over 30 years now. They would like to pass on this skill to their sons as well. Though it may look simple, making Maheshwari sarees require efforts, time, patience, and skills. Each saree takes days, sometimes weeks, to finish. The making of saree begins with sourcing all raw materials. From cotton thread to zari thread, everything is sourced from across India. The cotton is mostly sourced from Coimbatore, Zari from Surat, and Silk is procured from Bengaluru, say executives from Indian retail chain FabIndia, which is supporting this legacy handloom fabric. What started as an interest by queen Ahilyabai Holkar in the late 18th Century, evolved in the colonial and post-Independence era. Its regal and royal appearance made it a favourite amongst British households, with a widespread shift in the Indian hand loom industry too. With the government's recognition of crafts, today's Maheshwari sarees are a fusion of cultural heritage with modernity. With a few twists made to the border of the saree, introducing checks, and patterns, the border and pallus still remain intricate. Today, there are multiple power looms producing Maheshwari sarees, but takers for authentic handloom continue to contribute to the weavers' livelihood. The fabric's lightweight nature have made it perfect for every day and every occasion wear. Today, Maheshwari sarees have found their place on global ramps and in boutique collections. In Maheshwar, they are still deeply personal, a symbol of pride, livelihood, and living history. Travellers can visit centres like the Rehwa Society, housed within the palace walls, to watch the artisans at work and even buy directly from the source. Some visitors try their hands at the loom, while others take home scarves, dupattas, or men's shirts too. With every fold of a Maheshwari saree, you carry a part of India's living tradition, spun by the river, stitched in history, and wrapped in grace. 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