Humble fish stew showcases the underappreciated cuisine of Spain's Balearic islands
In the shadow of an imposing stone bell tower, market stalls fan out by the dozens from the central plaza of Sineu, Mallorca.
Every Wednesday, vendors fill the surrounding streets with produce from the fertile central plain of the Spanish Mediterranean island. Interspersed among the plump tomatoes, leafy chard and bright citrus are more stalls overflowing with handcrafts, textiles, jewelry and more.
The scene plays out much like it has every week since at least the early 1200s. Designated a royal market in 1304, it's the only remaining market in Spain's Balearic Islands allowed to sell live rabbits, poultry and farm animals.
Naturally, the produce changes with the season, showcasing products that define a cuisine that's little known outside the Balearic Islands.
Although the islands are better known for their pristine beaches and sun-drenched cliffs, Jeff Koehler's new book, 'The Spanish Mediterranean Islands Cookbook,' aims to give the food some worthy attention.
'It's only a 30-minute flight from Barcelona,' said Koehler. 'But it's amazing to see that it has its own culinary culture.'
Mallorca is the biggest of the Mediterranean chain, which also includes Ibiza, Formentera and Menorca, where Koehler, an American, has lived part time for 15 years. Much of the diet is classic Mediterranean, with lots of olive oil, legumes and fresh vegetables.
But Koehler said the islands differ from the rest of the region because they were so isolated. The cuisine developed with few outside influences, with locals relying on heavily on fishing, foraging and preserving to survive the winter.
Restriction led to creativity. As an example, he cited the moment in springtime when fava beans are suddenly everywhere in springtime.
'Then you start thinking of five ways of making fava beans because it's what's there now,' he said. 'What starts as this necessity of just survival eventually converts into real gastronomic treats.'
Locals may pair favas, or broad beans, with mint, spring onions and sobrassada, a paprika-spiced, uncased pork sausage that's like a spreadable chorizo. Or they add them to a frittata-like Spanish tortilla, or use them with cuttlefish, bacon and onions.
The result in each case is a humble yet tasty dish, a combination that is typical of the islands.
One of the most representative is caldereta de peix, a simple fish stew that is served over slices of toasted day-old bread. Originally prepared with the worthless bycatch that got caught in fishermen's nets, it features a saffron-scented tomato broth with garlic, onion and white wine.
The bold flavor is much more than the sum of its parts, and it exemplifies how leftovers can become a delicious classic.
'First came the need to eat,' Koehler writes. 'Then came the desire to eat well.'
From Jeff Koehler's 'The Spanish Mediterranean Islands Cookbook'
Time: About an hour, 10 minutes
Serves: 4
One 3- to 4-pound whole fish, such as scorpion fish, bream, sea bass or red snapper, or another firm-fleshed variety. Or 1 1/2 pound filets
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 medium yellow onions, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
3 medium tomatoes, halved and grated
1/4 cup dry white wine
8 cups fish stock
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
Small pinch of saffron threads, crumbled
Very thin slices of day-old country-style bread, cut into 2.5-cm/1-inch-wide strips and lightly toasted, for serving
Cut the fish crosswise into thick steaks. Reserve the heads and tails.
Heat the oil in a Dutch oven over medium. Add the onions and cook until soft, 8–10 minutes. Stir in the garlic and then add the tomatoes. Cook until pulpy and deeper red, about 10 minutes, adding a few tablespoons of water from time to time to keep it moist. Add the wine and cook for 2 minutes. Stir in 1 cup of the stock.
Use a hand blender to puree the sauce, or transfer it to a blender to puree and return it to the pot. Stir in the paprika and saffron, and season with salt and pepper.
Season the fish steaks and reserved heads and tails with salt and pepper and add to the pan. Pour over the remaining stock. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and simmer, uncovered, for 15 minutes. Don't let it reach a strong boil, to keep the fish from breaking apart.
Remove the pot from the heat. Remove and discard the heads and tails. Cover the pot and let sit for 10 minutes.
To serve, put a couple of pieces of toasted bread in each of 4 wide soup bowls. Ladle over the soup with 1 or 2 pieces of fish per bowl.
EDITOR'S NOTE: Albert Stumm writes about food, travel and wellness. Find his work at https://www.albertstumm.com
Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles
Time of India
4 hours ago
- Time of India
‘Tourism was an affluent privilege — it's now becoming a working-class right'
Sasha D Pack Sasha D. Pack is Professor of History at the University of Buffalo . Speaking to Srijana Mitra Das at Times Evoke , he discusses how — and why — we travel: When did travel change from being largely pilgrimages to pleasure trips? Modern tourism has multiple origins — pilgrimage may be among the most important. But tourism as a phenomenon grew with the Industrial Revolution and the 18th-century culture of romanticism. A notion spread that the landscape was changing rapidly. Cities were expanding, and factories were beginning to dot the countryside. As industrialism grew, the word 'tourism' itself spread — there was a yearning to see what was authentic before it disappeared or contemplate the sublime infinity of mountains and seas. A good definition of 'modernity' is that this is a condition where people feel things are always changing — they're in a state of constant unsettlement. Tourism becomes one way to participate in that spectacle of unsettlement. Importantly, pilgrimage itself was, or is, about a transcendence, changing oneself through travel, that remains part of modern tourism. Of course, with the Industrial Revolution, cities also grew crowded — some, especially in the 19th century, saw cholera and tuberculosis outbreaks. So, there was an emphasis on hydrotherapy, sunlight and milder temperatures that drove people to travel. Ironically, some destinations they chose were earlier considered places of disease — the Mediterranean coast, for instance, was once thought to be somewhere you could get malaria. But those landscapes were transformed into places now considered healthy, therapeutic escapes from unpleasant modern industrial life. You've written of post-1945 tourism — what were some surprising research findings? The most surprising was how all the forms of tourism we know today, whether it's going to the beach, visiting museums or even ecotourism, have a very deep history — they all existed well before 1945. Post-WWII, tourism became organised like never before — it almost became a right rather than a privilege of the well-to-do. Affluent people always took holidays but after 1945, members of the working class also aspired to have this kind of escape from everyday life. That was organised to a great extent by governments and intergovernmental organisations like the European Union and the International Monetary Fund . An interesting example is how, in the late 1940s, Great Britain was facing a serious currency crisis with the pound sterling rapidly devaluing. One way the government convinced other countries to hold more pound sterling in their reserves and bolster its value, thus, was by restricting British tourist visits. They essentially offered, 'Well, we'll permit, say, 50,000 British tourists to visit France if France agrees to hold this much of our currency in reserve'. This was the first time tourism became an object of international negotiation — after WWII, it grew far more into an element of governmental attention. What have been some of tourism's ecological impacts? Like most modern economic endeavours, tourism has a major environmental impact — some studies put transportation alone as accounting for 13% of global carbon emissions. In developed economies, where more travel has occurred over the past, one-third of carbon emissions are estimated to come from transport, which includes tourism. There are other major impacts too — hotels entail constant lighting, huge water use, deploying new linens daily, discarding half-used products, wasting food and doing things we ordinarily don't do at home. Another extremely important impact is altered land use — when you make sprawling coastal resorts or mountain hotels, you are disrupting ecosystems in ways we can't even entirely comprehend. What links tourism and labour? Consider 'The Riviera, Exposed' by Stephen L. Harp, an excellent book about this cherished destination, visited since the 1800s by aristocrats and the well-to-do. After World War II, there was a desire to bring it to the masses, with a 'high volume-lower cost' model becoming profitable. To adapt, though, the Riviera needed more hotels, infrastructure, water systems, etc. Most of the labour recruited to build all this came from North Africa, particularly Algeria, while it was still a French territory. This was often presented as a reason why Algerians should stay in the French sphere, with all these labour opportunities for them. But Algeria gained independence in 1962, and many of these workers were then no longer considered French and given no rights. The very areas they had helped build became the birthplace of the National Front (now, the National Rally ) and French anti-immigrant parties. And there was a concerted effort to conceal these people, not let them establish any kind of permanent residence, herding them into camps while they were still beautifying this tourist destination. They were prevented from living in the cities where they worked, forced into shanties and when the work was finished, made to move on. This also happened in the United States, where so much infrastructure, particularly in the south that attracts a lot of tourism, was built by labour which came from Mexico, the Caribbean and South America . When you visit, you might imagine these things, being so gleaming and pristine, were always there, but we should recognise that the effort behind it was gruelling and often came from immigrant labour. As more people document their voyages on social media now, what does it mean to be a tourist today? Travel is a very important part of what makes us who we are — it is central to the human experience. People documenting their journeys on social media may look like a new occurrence but travel literature actually has a long pedigree. Earlier, people wrote about their pilgrimages or adventures in exotic countries in books that others read because this appealed to a desire. Such social media has a deep tradition. Obviously, it allows new bells and whistles but it retains the central point that it is deeply human to travel. Humans always journeyed — the agricultural revolution of the last 10,000 years makes us assume our natural state is sedentary and it is exceptional to travel. But we developed fire before agriculture — that allowed us to travel safely, keeping away predators and creating comfort. Neanderthals were as smart as us with similar tools and technologies — but they didn't travel. They are rarely found far from their ancestral homes while Homo sapiens had this uncanny ability to sustain the challenges of travel — those aren't just technical, related to safety and sustenance, but also the establishment of trust or durable emotional connections with people. This is how cultures developed their traditions of hospitality, deciding if they'd be welcoming or hostile to outsiders. If we stop travelling, we will lose an important part of who we have evolved to be, travel was a huge part of different civilisations from ancient Greece to China, many thinkers debating if it was alright to travel just to sightsee or if that was an extravagant impertinence. Many ancient travellers then decided curiosity was something that needed to be satisfied. Today, too, when we see places or meet people and other beings on our holidays, we are participating in something central to the human experience — and in this age of burgeoning artificial intelligence, it's increasingly important to remember what it is that sets us apart.
Time of India
5 hours ago
- Time of India
Indians avoid Spain travel amid soaring rentals, locals' ire
Spain is facing backlash from locals due to mass tourism, leading to accommodation shortages and increased prices. Consequently, Indian travelers, particularly budget-conscious ones, are shifting towards more affordable European destinations like Georgia and Romania. While overall Indian tourist numbers to Spain grew in 2024, recent booking data indicates a decline, though luxury travel remains strong. Tired of too many ads? Remove Ads 'Lot of Planning Needed Now' Tired of too many ads? Remove Ads During her spring break, an Indian MBA student enrolled in a top Spanish business school had planned to explore the Basque countryside, a quiet getaway after months of rigorous coursework. But just days before the trip, her charming bed and breakfast in San Sebastián got abruptly cancelled. With prices for alternative accommodations skyrocketing and options limited, she stayed back in Madrid and settled for local Spain grapples with protests against mass tourism, anecdotes like this one are coming up frequently this year. The Spanish government recently ordered Airbnb to take down more than 66,000 rental listings that failed to comply with regulations, particularly those that didn't clarify ownership, while a Madrid court called for the immediate removal of 5,000 such listings. These moves follow mounting protests across major cities like Barcelona and Seville where locals say tourism is pricing them out of tension is now echoing back to India's outbound travel industry, with data indicating a noticeable shift away from Spain, particularly among value-conscious and mid-range Indian travellers. According to the latest data from Turespaña, Spain's national tourism board, more than 226,000 Indian tourists visited the country in 2024, growing over 60% from 2022. The increasing negative sentiment and hostility towards tourism may now weigh on the growth, say travel industry insiders.'Spain has always been a favourite for Indian travellers, but over the past year, we've seen a noticeable shift,' said Tavleen Bhatia, chief marketing and revenue officer at travel services company Cleartrip. 'This year, pre-monsoon season, bookings to Spain dipped by 32%.'Indian travellers are broadening their European bucket list and are increasingly turning to destinations like Georgia, Romania, Serbia and Sweden for their rich culture and more affordable experiences, Bhatia factors may also be affecting the shift in traveller intent. 'The numbers this year have been a bit muted. That can be attributed to multiple factors, like changing preferences or less disposable income to spend,' said Rajiv Mehra, general secretary of the Federation of Associations in Indian Tourism and also explained the hostility faced by tourists in Spain. 'Accommodation has become an issue of prioritising locals over tourists. Locals view tourists as the prime cause of increased rentals, and they find it unaffordable. The whole issue sprang from there. Tourists avoid those destinations where they feel unwelcome by the locals.'The lack of affordable accommodation options is also being felt. Hari Ganapathy, co-founder of customised tour package provider Pickyourtrail, said: 'A holiday in Spain now requires much earlier planning, primarily due to the limited availability of accommodations, which has become a more prominent issue recently.'The well-heeled, however, are still finding their way to the Iberian Peninsula with enthusiasm. According to SOTC Travel president SD Nandakumar, even with a 7-10% increase in tour pricing this year, 'Spain continues to witness strong interest from our customers.'The average 9N/10D itinerary is now priced around `2.9 lakh per person. Travellers are booking personalised holidays that include winery tours in La Rioja and Ribera del Duero, football stadium visits in Madrid and Barcelona, and nightlife experiences in Ibiza. There has also been a shift in where and how people travel.'There's a clear uptick in demand for boutique hotels, luxury villas and heritage stays, reflecting the intent to slow down and explore more deeply,' he Thomas Cook (India), per-person spends for Spain range from 2 lakh to 3 lakh, often with bookings in 4- to 5-star hotels or even luxury resorts. Rajeev Kale, president, Thomas Cook (India), said, 'Interestingly, we are witnessing shorter booking windows — approximately 1.5-2 months in advance, aligning with faster visa processing times.'According to Kale, emerging locales like Málaga and Costa del Sol in Andalusia, Ronda and Segovia are gaining traction.
Time of India
5 hours ago
- Time of India
US issues Level 2 travel advisory for India: What it means & what travellers should know
The US government has issued a Level 2 travel advisory for India, urging American citizens to 'exercise increased caution' due to crime and terrorist threats. The advisory, updated on June 16, 2025, highlights rising incidents of rape and other violent crimes, including sexual assaults at tourist spots. While India is the primary focus of the advisory, the US also issued warnings for other nations, including travel advisories for areas along the India-Pakistan border and certain rural areas prone to terrorist activity. Key Advisory Points for Travel to India: Violence and Crime : Terrorist attacks can occur with little or no warning, and often target tourist spots, transport hubs, markets, and government buildings. Special Authorization : US government employees must obtain special permission to visit certain rural areas across eastern Maharashtra, northern Telangana, and western West Bengal due to terrorist activity. Satellite Devices : Do not carry satellite phones or GPS equipment. Possession can result in a $200,000 fine or three years of imprisonment. Women Travelers : Avoid traveling alone and review travel tips for women. Personal Preparedness : Maintain personal security measures, stay alert, and review the India Country Security Report from the Overseas Security Advisory Council (OSAC). Contingency Plans : Prepare an emergency plan, review the Traveler's Checklist, and enroll in the Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP). Travel Health Advice : Check the CDC page for the latest travel health information. Restricted Areas in India (Join our ETNRI WhatsApp channel for all the latest updates) The advisory includes several areas where Americans are told to 'do not travel' or 'reconsider travel' due to serious security threats: Live Events Jammu and Kashmir : Do not travel due to terrorism and civil unrest. Violence occurs sporadically, especially along the Line of Control and in tourist spots like Srinagar, Gulmarg, and Pahalgam. India-Pakistan Border : Do not travel due to risk of armed conflict. The only official crossing point is Attari (India)–Wagah (Pakistan). Visas are required. Central and Eastern India : Do not travel due to terrorist activity by Naxalite groups, especially in rural areas of Chhattisgarh, Jharkhand, Telangana, Andhra Pradesh, Maharashtra, Madhya Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh, Bihar, West Bengal, and Odisha. Manipur : Do not travel due to ethnic-based violence and targeted attacks on Indian government personnel. Northeastern States : Reconsider travel due to terrorist threats and ethnic insurgent attacks. US government employees require special permission to travel to certain areas, including Sikkim, Arunachal Pradesh, and areas outside the state capitals. Additional Advice The advisory reminds travelers that violations of Indian immigration rules can result in serious penalties, including imprisonment and hefty fines. Electronic visas are not valid for land crossings into India.
