A taste of Terres de l'Ebre—meet the people behind the produce
There are few destinations where terroir is reflected in taste quite as much as in Terres de l'Ebre. This southernmost part of Catalonia is home to some of the region's most diverse landscapes, with mountains, sea, beaches and wetlands, all playing their part in shaping the local gastronomy. The waters of the River Ebro have fed the land and nourished its bounty for centuries. Here, three prominent culinary figures share more about the region's specialities and the ways the river has shaped them.
Michelin-starred chef and owner of Villa Retiro in Xerta
What makes the cuisine of Terres de l'Ebre so special?The rich natural surroundings — from the arrosars [water-filled rice fields] of the Delta de l'Ebre to the mountainous areas of Els Ports Natural Park. This geographical diversity yields a variety of fresh and high-quality ingredients, which form the basis of an authentic cuisine that's deeply connected with the land and its traditions. The gastronomy of Terres de l'Ebre is in a process of constant growth, gaining recognition both regionally and nationally.
What are some of your favourite local specialities?Arròs [rice] is emblematic of the Delta de l'Ebre and is grown in vast quantities in the area's arrosars. We work with different varieties and different techniques, sometimes exploring new ways to prepare traditional dishes — but always maintaining a high level of respect for the produce. I also enjoy eel, which has been part of the local cuisine for many generations. And in the town of Xerta, visitors should definitely try the citrus fruits, especially the Xerta orange, which is known for its exceptional quality and flavor.
How has the Ebro River shaped the region's culinary landscape?The Ebro River is important not only because of its rich produce, such as rice and eels, but also because of its former role as a transport route. In the past, the river facilitated the distribution and exchange of local products, allowing people access to a wider range of ingredients, thus enriching local cuisine. Without it, the history and gastronomy of Terres de l'Ebre would be very different.
How would you describe your culinary style, and how do local ingredients feature in your cooking?My culinary style centres on produce from the Delta de l'Ebre and I always use the most appropriate techniques to highlight the unique qualities of each ingredient. I respect the origin of each product but also incorporate contemporary touches, seeking a balance between tradition and modernity. Our menu at Villa Retiro, for example, features dishes like Catalan-style cod with romesco sauce, charcoal-grilled green peppers and olives.
Oil producer and owner of Identitat Olive Oil in Horta de Sant Joan
Tell us a bit more about your olive oil. What makes your products so special, and how are they influenced by the land here?We produce monovarietal olive oils, which are made with only one olive cultivar [cultivated variety]. This means each oil has unique flavour characteristics and delivers a different experience. The local terroir has a great influence on our products. We are based in the Terra Alta region, which is sheltered by a mountain ridge and home to numerous organic farming practices. All of these conditions come together to create olive oils with distinctive tasting notes.
Aside from olive oil, what are some of your favourite local ingredients?Personally, I love vegetables cooked in various ways — raw, sauteed, steamed — as well as lamb and fresh fish. I could eat these all my life! I also like rice — a good paella done in the Terres de l'Ebre style [with seafood and locally grown rice] can certainly compare to the best Valencian renditions.
Historically, the most important ingredient of the area was saffron, but unfortunately this is very scarce nowadays. It's said that during the Middle Ages, the saffron cultivated in Horta de Sant Joan set the price of saffron in Europe. It meant that at that time, the town held a lot of wealth and was a very strategic place to control.
Nowadays, visitors should also try peaches in Bot, asparagus in Gandesa and local honey. There are also a number of new initiatives mainly based on fermenting different sugars for producing either beer, mead or spirits.
What is one fun fact visitors should know about the village of Horta de Sant Joan?Most people don't know that the famous artist, Picasso, spent time in the village on two occasions. During his second time here, he and his girlfriend, Fernande Olivier, actually stayed at my great-grandparents' hostel, Hostal del Trompet. With their Parisian dress and mannerisms, they must have experienced quite the culture shock here. As a result, his short stay in town generated a lot of stories, which locals regale visitors with to this day.
Owner of restaurant and mussel farm Musclarium in La Ràpita
Tell us a bit more about the production of oysters and mussels in the Ebro Delta region.At present, there are 30 companies cultivating oysters and mussels in the region. Together, we produce around 700 tonnes of oysters and 3.5 million mussels every year.
What makes your produce so special, and how is it shaped by the local ecosystems?Here, the sweet water of the Ebro River mixes with the marine water of the Mediterranean Sea to produce large amounts of phytoplankton — microorganisms that are an important food source for the mussels, oysters and other creatures in the Ebro Delta. This, in turn, gives the produce we cultivate a really special flavour. When you eat one of our oysters, it's like tasting the Mediterranean Sea — salty, fresh and elegant.
Besides mussels and oysters, what are some must-taste ingredients from the region?Visitors should absolutely try the local rice, grown across the Ebro Delta. The oils, salt and honey we produce here are noteworthy too.
This paid content article was created for the Terres de l'Ebre Tourist Board as part of a joint initiative with the Catalan Tourism Board. It does not necessarily reflect the views of National Geographic, National Geographic Traveller (UK) or their editorial staffs.To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
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