The secret to crisp tofu
I want to like tofu, but I don't because of its rubbery texture. How do I make it nice and crisp?
Anne, by email
'Moisture is the enemy of crisp tofu,' says Emma Chung, author of Easy Chinese Food Anyone Can Make, so the quest for cubes of bean curd that are crisp on the outside and soft on the inside starts by getting rid of as much excess water as possible (and choosing a tofu labelled 'firm' or 'extra-firm' in the first place). 'I usually do this by wrapping the tofu in tea towels, placing it between two large plates and putting a heavy pot or pan on top,' Chung says. After 10 minutes, you 'should have a nice and firm tofu that will have a lovely texture, and it will be a lot easier to crisp up'.
Guardian columnist Ravinder Bhogal, meanwhile, pops her tofu on a wire rack set over a tray and covers it with kitchen paper or a clean cloth: 'Put a weight on top and leave it for a couple of hours, and ideally overnight – that will squeeze out the excess moisture.' She then pats the tofu dry and coats it in corn, rice or potato flour before frying (or putting in an air fryer) for an 'off-the-Richter crunch'. Chung is simpatico, coating her tofu pieces in a thin layer of cornflour to create a crust that 'turns extra crisp when fried or baked'. Simply put the cubed tofu in a bowl, cover 'generously' with cornflour and give everything a good toss. 'If you're using slices of tofu, dip them in a shallow plate of cornflour to make sure they're evenly coated.'
Kirk Haworth, chef and co-founder of Plates, the UK's first Michelin-starred vegan gaff, recommends hard-frying the coated tofu. Pour oil into a pan and, once that's 'really hot, whack in the tofu and fry, stirring constantly, for about three minutes'. Don't overcrowd the pan, though, so fry it in batches, if need be, and transfer the cooked cubes to a paper-lined plate to drain. At this time of year, Haworth would then be inclined to toss those crisp cubes through a cold noodle salad, or pile them on to little gem lettuce leaves, while Chung prefers hers in a salad of chopped cucumber and cherry tomatoes. Either way, you'll want a punchy sauce to go with it, because tofu is more a vehicle for flavour than a wonder in its own right: 'Equal parts soy sauce, vinegar, tahini, a splash of sesame oil and chilli oil would be my basic go-to,' Chung says.
Alternatively, dial up the heat with Meera Sodha's chilli tofu. Fry bashed cumin seeds and diced onion in oil until soft, then add crushed garlic, grated ginger and green chilli. After five minutes, go in with some ground black pepper, tomato puree, soy sauce, sugar and salt, followed by sliced red and green peppers and a little water. Once the peppers are soft, add the crisp fried tofu to the pan to warm through, then add greens and chapatis to serve.
And if you're still struggling with that rubbery texture, Haworth recommends tempura-ing your tofu: 'Marinate it in soy sauce, honey and chilli, leave it, then dip in tempura batter and fry,' he says. 'Now that's definitely going to be crisp – although probably a little less healthy.'
Got a culinary dilemma? Email feast@theguardian.com
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