Eight simple, sun-filled recipes from the south of France
STICKY BAKED SHALLOT AND WILD MUSHROOM QUICHE
This deep-filled quiche is rich and luxurious, with a softly set, almost wobbly centre.
SERVES 6-8
50g unsalted butter, plus extra as needed
14 small banana shallots, peeled and halved lengthways
250g wild mushrooms
200ml double cream
200ml whole milk
2 medium eggs, plus 3 egg yolks
200g cantal (or cheddar) cheese, grated
8 thyme sprigs
salt and freshly ground black pepper
salad, to serve
For the pastry
150g salted butter, plus extra for greasing
250g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
60ml ice-cold water
1 Start by making the pastry. Put the butter and flour into a food processor and pulse until it resembles breadcrumbs. Add the water a tablespoon at a time, pulsing again until the dough comes together. Tip on to a lightly floured surface and press it together into a ball. Roll into a circle 2-3mm thick.
2 Butter a 24-25cm fluted tart tin (at least 5cm deep), line with the pastry, press it into the fluted sides and leave it to hang over the edges. Prick the base and sides with a fork then chill in the fridge for at least 30 minutes.
3 Meanwhile, heat the butter in a wide frying pan over a low heat. Once foaming, add the shallots and cook for 20-25 minutes until caramelised and soft. (Cover with a lid sporadically if the pan is drying up.) Remove shallots from the pan and set aside.
4 Add a little more butter and the mushrooms, and cook for 5 minutes or until soft and lightly coloured. Set aside.
5 Preheat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Scrunch up a piece of baking parchment and use it to line the pastry case, then add some baking beans. Blind-bake in the oven for 30-40 minutes, or until the base is lightly golden, firm and crisp. Remove from the oven and trim away the excess overhanging pastry. Set the base aside.
6 Beat the cream with the milk, eggs and yolks in a bowl. Season well with salt and pepper, then add the cheese. Make sure the filling is cool before you add it to the pastry.
7 Add the cooked shallots and mushrooms to the pastry case, then pour over the cream mixture. Dot the thyme sprigs on top. Bake for 35-45 minutes, or until golden, crisp and cooked through (the filling needs to be set). Remove from the oven and leave to cool for 15 minutes before serving with salad.
SLOW-ROASTED CHICKEN LOLLIPOPS WITH ESPELETTE PEPPER AND HERBS
Chicken drumsticks are always a win for a picnic to be eaten by the sea or poolside, especially if they have been slow-roasted so that the meat all but falls off the bone. Always buy the best chicken you can find – free-range or organic tastes so much better. Marinating the chicken overnight gets you extra brownie points but is not essential – although do try to leave it for a couple of hours.
SERVES 4
2 garlic cloves, crushed
2 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp Espelette pepper (piment d'Espelette, available at souschef.com or spicemountain.co.uk), or Aleppo or cayenne pepper
2 tsp dried oregano
1 tsp demerara sugar
12 chicken drumsticks
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 Preheat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4 and line a baking tray with parchment paper.
2 Blend the garlic and oil in a small bowl. In a shallow dish, mix the Espelette pepper, oregano, sugar and some salt and pepper.
3 Prepare the chicken lollipops by slicing around the thin end of the drumstick to cut the tendons, then push all the meat to the top. Remove the skin around the bottom of the drumstick, if you wish. Using a small brush, cover the drumsticks in the garlic oil, then dab them into the spice mix so they are covered all over. Line them up on the prepared baking tray and roast in the oven for 1½-2 hours. You want them to be succulent, and for the meat to be falling off the bone, so if they still feel firm put them back in the oven for a bit longer. If not crispy enough, you can turn the heat up to 200C/ 180C fan/gas 6 for the last 15 minutes.
4 Remove from the oven, plate up and enjoy.
PROVENÇAL PANZANELLA
A great, easy-to-assemble summer dish that makes good use of leftover bread and is full of colourful vegetables. This is lovely as part of a big lunch table or for a family barbecue to accompany grilled meats.
SERVES 4-6
2 courgettes, cut into strips
olive oil, for drizzling
1 tbsp maple syrup (or agave nectar)
handful of pine nuts
½ a leftover baguette or 1 large slice of sourdough
2-3 heirloom tomatoes
1 small head of Castelfranco (or other crunchy) lettuce, leaves torn
1 bunch of radishes, halved
10 anchovy fillets
1 bunch of basil leaves
fleur de sel (or sea salt)
For the dressing
3 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp maple syrup
juice of ½ a lemon
1 Preheat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6.
2 Put the courgette on a baking tray lined with parchment paper, then drizzle with the oil and maple syrup. Sprinkle with salt and the pine nuts, then cook for 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside.
3 Put the leftover bread on a separate tray and toast in the oven for a few minutes until crunchy all over. (If quite hard to begin with, dampen it with a little water on the outside before putting it in the oven.) Remove from the oven and cut into chunks, then leave to cool.
4 Slice the tomatoes, remove the stem scar and drain off the juice and seeds.
5 In a large bowl, mix all the dressing ingredients, then add the bread pieces and toss so that they are evenly coated (adding more oil if needed).
6 Put the courgettes and pine nuts, tomatoes, lettuce and radishes in the salad bowl and gently turn to coat it all with the dressing. Add the anchovies on top, tear over the basil, add a pinch of salt and, finally, drizzle with a little more olive oil.
MINI PAN BAGNATS WITH FRESH TUNA
The pan bagnat is the typical sandwich of the south of France. You'll find it in most boulangeries, in sandwich kiosks by the sea – even being distributed by dinghy if you are out sailing. It's a satisfying Niçoise salad to go, in its own round bap, and a real casse-croûte, which is the slang word for a quick meal. I make these luxe versions with fresh tuna, but you can of course use the sustainably caught tinned kind. Part of the fun is that the vinaigrette soaks into the chunky bread. Trust me, eating this with a salty breeze blowing in your face is just the best!
MAKES 8
4 small tuna steaks
olive oil, for cooking
a handful of pitted black olives, roughly chopped
8 anchovy fillets
8 crunchy sourdough rolls
1 garlic clove, halved
8 crunchy little gem lettuce leaves, washed
1 sweet onion (if you don't like raw onion leave out), thinly sliced
3 tomatoes on the vine, thinly sliced
4 peeled hard-boiled eggs, sliced
handful of fresh basil leaves
salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the vinaigrette
50ml olive oil
juice of ½ a lemon
1 tbsp red wine vinegar
½ tsp Dijon mustard
1 Fry the tuna steaks with a little oil in a nonstick frying pan or griddle pan for about 4 minutes on each side, or until cooked through – as this is picnic food, it's better to cook them well. Cut them in half and set aside.
2 Make the vinaigrette by combining all the ingredients in a bowl and seasoning to taste. Add the olives and anchovies to the vinaigrette and mix gently.
3 Cut the rolls in half and rub them with the garlic clove, then add some of the vinaigrette to each half. Add the lettuce, tuna, onion, tomatoes and sliced egg. Finish with a drizzle of vinaigrette, then tear up some basil and add to the sandwich. Season with salt and pepper, then close the rolls. Wrap them tightly in wax paper, tie with a little natural string (if you like, so they look cute), and pack them in a cool box for your picnic.
SAFFRON RISOTTO WITH CONFIT TOMATOES
One of the most prized products of the upper Var region of Provence is the elusive saffron, locally known as l'or rouge. Harvested in autumn from the flowering crocus plant, the stems are handpicked then dried. I love to flaunt the spice in this vibrant risotto with slow-cooked sweet cherry tomatoes.
SERVES 4
1-1.3 litres good-quality chicken or vegetable stock
olive oil, for cooking
1 white onion, diced
240g arborio or carnaroli rice
100ml white or rosé wine
1 very generous pinch of saffron threads
50g salted butter
100g parmesan, finely grated
For the confit tomatoes
400g cherry tomatoes, halved
a few sprigs of thyme or sage
75ml extra virgin olive oil
1 Preheat the oven to 170C/150C fan/gas 3.
2 First, make the confit tomatoes. Place them snugly in a high-sided baking tray with the thyme or sage and extra virgin olive oil. Bake for 30 minutes while the risotto is cooking.
3 For the risotto, heat the stock in a large saucepan over a medium heat, maintaining a low simmer.
4 Heat a generous drizzle of olive oil in a deep frying pan over a medium heat and fry the onion for 4-5 minutes until starting to soften, then add the rice.
5 Toast the rice for 2 minutes, stirring regularly. When it looks translucent, add the wine. Cook off the wine for a minute or so, then add the saffron.
6 Start adding the stock, one ladle at a time, stirring regularly. Cook over a low heat for 20 minutes until the rice is firm but cooked. Remove from the heat, add the butter, cover and allow to rest for 2 minutes. Finally, stir in a generous handful of the parmesan.
7 Remove the tomatoes from the oven. Divide the risotto between bowls, then top with the tomatoes and plenty of extra parmesan.
CANTALOUPE MELON AND LIME GRANITA
Simple and refreshing, this is summer in a melon bowl. The perfect end to a relaxed lunch together or as an afternoon treat by the pool.
SERVES 4
100g caster sugar
100ml water
2 cantaloupe melons
juice of 2 limes, plus zest of 1
1 Put the sugar and water in a saucepan and bring to a simmer to dissolve the sugar. Once the sugar has dissolved, remove from the heat and set aside to cool.
2 Cut the melons in half through the 'waist', scoop out the seeds and discard them, then scoop out most of the flesh, putting it in the bowl of a food processor.
3 Leave a wall of flesh inside the melon, about 1cm thick (so not scooping out right to the skin). Blend the flesh, adding the cool sugar syrup and the lime juice and zest. Reserve the hollowed-out melons, because these will be used as bowls for the granita.
4 Pour the blended melon into a container or baking dish that will fit in the freezer. Put the four cantaloupe shells in the freezer too. Freeze for 1 hour, then use a fork to scrape the granita mixture. Freeze again and then scrape again. Repeat this two or three times until you have a granita texture.
5 Transfer the granita to the cantaloupe halves to serve.
PEA, CUCUMBER AND MINT CHILLED SOUP
I am a huge fan of a refreshing, cool soup in summer, and there's nothing that does it as well as this fresh concoction of green vegetables and mint. This makes a pretty starter and can be served in a small bowl or a large glass.
olive oil, for cooking
1 large sweet onion, roughly chopped
1 garlic clove, roughly chopped
300g fresh or frozen peas
180ml vegetable stock
handful of ice cubes
2 cucumbers, halved, deseeded and roughly chopped
fleur de sel and freshly ground black pepper
200ml crème fraîche
mint leaves, roughly chopped, to serve
1 Heat a little oil in a large saucepan over a medium heat and fry the onion and garlic for a few minutes. Add the peas and stock, cover and cook for about 10 minutes, stirring frequently.
2 Remove the peas in stock from the heat and add the ice cubes – this helps to preserve the bright green colour. Transfer to a food processor and add the cucumbers. Season with salt, then blend until very smooth. If you are making this in advance, store it in the refrigerator until needed.
3 Serve in individual soup bowls or glasses and season each with a little salt and pepper, then add a nice dollop of crème fraîche and sprinkle with chopped mint.
PORTABLE POTATO SALAD WITH ANCHOVIES AND QUAIL'S EGGS
The key to a great potato salad is in the double dressing. While the potatoes are still warm, toss them in the lemony vinaigrette so the flesh soaks up all the seasoning, then dress them a second time to achieve the creamy and tangy finished flavour. This is a great portable picnic salad, no knife needed, and you can take a tin of anchovies in the basket to drape over the top when serving. You can also do the same with the quail's eggs, keeping them separate and letting others do the peeling work.
SERVES 4
750g new potatoes (I use rattes)
4 celery stalks, sliced
10g chives (and their flowers if available), finely chopped, plus extra to serve
60g fresh peas, cooked
1 tbsp chopped capers
1 tbsp chopped cornichons
50g pitted black olives
16 quail's eggs
16 best-quality tinned anchovy fillets
salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the vinaigrette
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 tbsp lemon juice
1 tsp Dijon mustard
For the creamy dressing
70g crème fraîche
70g mayonnaise
2 tsp Dijon or wholegrain mustard
1 Place the potatoes in a saucepan of cold salted water. Bring to the boil and simmer for 10-15 minutes, or until soft when tested with the tip of a sharp knife.
2 Mix together the ingredients for the vinaigrette in a large bowl. When the potatoes are soft, drain them and then return them to the dry pan to release some steam.
3 Use a fork to crush them in half (the rugged edges absorb the dressing all the better) and toss them while warm in the vinaigrette.
4 For the creamy dressing, mix together all the ingredients in a separate bowl until well combined.
5 Add the celery, chives, peas, capers and cornichons to the potatoes and toss with the creamy dressing. Add the olives and stir everything together.
6 Bring a saucepan of water to the boil and cook the quail's eggs for 2 minutes, then cool in a bowl of ice-cold water. Peel the quail's eggs, then add to the salad along with the anchovy fillets. To finish, scatter with the chive flowers and a few extra chopped chives.
NOW BUY THE BOOK
Our recipes are from At Home In Provence by Jeany Cronk, with photographs by Lizzie Mayson (Hardie Grant, £27). To order a copy for £22.95 until 6 July, go to mailshop.co.uk/books or call 020 3176 2937. Free UK delivery on orders over £25.
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