Sunscreen to Shoppers: Pick Your Poison
Welcome back to Haul of Fame, your must-read beauty roundup for new products, new ideas and the ultimate wife guy in skincare.
Included in today's issue: Byredo, Burt's Bees, Charlotte Tilbury, Cyklar, Decorté, Dermalogica, Diptyque, Dr. Shereene Idriss, Eva NYC, Inkey List, Kylie Cosmetics, Kimchi Chic, Kylie Minogue, Lush, Lux Unfiltered, MAC Cosmetics, Maybelline, Milk Makeup, Murad, Native, Nette, Nuface, Philip B., Snif, Senegence, Soshe, Tarte, Thrive Causemetics, Truly Beauty, Typology, Violette_FR, YSE Beauty and VIP barbecue sauce.
But first…
There's a gas station and car wash in downtown Los Angeles that will check your car for smog-causing emissions. Above the price chart for toxic fumes is another kind of sky smear: A giant billboard that reads, 'the sun isn't poison but your sunscreen is.' Next to the message is Primally Pure's Sun Cream SPF 30, a $38 beige tube of beef tallow, zinc oxide and the radiant smiles of women who have 'done their own research.'
Primally Pure is a brand by the conservative influencer and podcaster Bethany Joy McDaniel. An entrepreneur and mom of two, McDaniel makes some truly excellent points in her content. She encourages faith-based communities to take a more active interest in their members' physical health; she wonders if fillers are making everyone look the same; she encourages young women to explore the connection between gut health and skin health, especially in the context of alcohol. This is all great! But then McDaniel throws out the baby with Sydney Sweeney's bathwater by saying SPF isn't always necessary, and it's better to go bare-skinned than use something 'chemical.' Phew.
Naturally, there's been big backlash from dermatologists, social media users, and Blue State moms trying to force a tube of Supergoop onto their kids before they leave for Governor's Ball. I'm not here to litigate that, because: Science.
Instead, let's talk about what happened after Primally Pure threw down its billboard gauntlet: The brand got (sun)burned. On Wednesday, Australian skincare label Ultra Violette decided to turn the momentum from its recent launch into the US via Sephora into a clapback. The brand's social team photoshopped their own version of a sunscreen billboard onto the car wash space. 'Warning,' it reads. 'This SPF contains chemicals, hydration and common sense.' Similar posters blare 'This SPF is 100% poisonous to premature aging' and 'Save the beef tallow for your potatoes, not your pores.' On Instagram, Ultra Violette's billboard reveal landed over 4000 engagements and increased the brand's online engagement sixfold, according to the online analytics platform Keywords Everywhere. Primally Pure's unveiling had some skeptical shoutouts in the New York Post and on the morning news program KTLA, landing 3440 engagements and an engagement rate of less than 1 percent.
From Primally Pure's POV, the campaign 'was designed specifically to spark conversation, create transparency, and increase awareness,' said founder McDaniel by email, who included a link to a 2020 JAMA study that begs the FDA for more sunscreen safety data.
Ultimately, both brands stand to benefit from a clash of ideals (and formulas). Like Wendy's tweeting insults at Katy Perry, digital swipes can turn up the heat on both brands, within reason. But even though neither Ultra Violette nor Primally Pure really 'loses' from their online billboard wars, the American public does lose when they're led to believe that sun care is more harmful than the melanoma it strives to prevent. In that sense, only one brand wins here — the one that uses proven data to keep its customers healthy long enough to shop another day. What else is new… Skincare
On March 28, Rachel Antonoff made the near-impossible happen and had an actually fun fashion party at the Margaritaville in Times Square. Among the swag was Vacation's SPF oil, which was promptly swiped off every patio table and bar counter by enthusiastic editors (and most of the SNL writing staff).
On March 29, Lux Unfiltered launched its own $44 SPF oil, a scented formula with notes of neroli. The brand also did a Sephora exclusive — a Blurring Body Glow with sunflower seed oil and vitamin C that's $25.
Murad's Biome-Balancing serum arrived on May 28 with 'biome-sensing technology' that doesn't actually feel your breakouts coming, but it does use salicylic acid and glutamic acid to help prevent flare-ups.
Real Housewife of Atlanta cast member Cynthia Bailey has entered the beauty brand chat. On May 29, she launched Glowissima, a skincare label co-founded with Dana Hill-Robinson, the chief executive of subscription beauty service Cocotique, which specifically focuses on Black-owned brands. It's got two hero products, a $64 face oil and $46 face cream.
Welcome to Sephora, YSE Beauty! The brand founded by actress Molly Sims entered 361 doors on June 1 with four of its key formulas, including vitamin c serum and moisturiser. Online, you can get eight more items, like YSE's first foray into colour cosmetics, a tinted lip gloss. (I just tested it: Super-thick, pigment rich, crazy shiny. Nice one, Molly.)
Do you want to smell like The Great British Bake Off when you sweat? Native launched a body care range on June 1 called Piece of Cake. It's got notes of frosting, buttercream, and sprinkles, and comes with a deodorant, body wash, shampoo, conditioner and lotion.
Everyone knows Mike's Hot Honey is the real MVP of a backyard barbecue, especially when grilled chicken is involved. Now it might be a CVS all-star, too. On June 1, the brand revealed its limited-edition collaboration with Burt's Bees, debuting a Hot Honey lip balm for $4. And it's not sold out yet…
Typology's A40 Cryo Plumping Stick hit shelves on June 2 with 'an immediate cooling, plumping effect' and the promise to de-puff and energize skin; its mostly applied around the eyes. It's got polyglutamic acid, a soybean extract that can hold five times its weight in water, plus spirodela, which is better known as duckweed.
If you enjoy watching super-graphic content of zits being… uh… un-zitted, pay attention to the Japanese skincare brand Decorté. Its AQ Pore Blackhead Dissolver Deep Pore Cleanser launched June 3 for $90 and claims to 'dissolve keratin plugs' for a more effective detox. The brand sent some lab close-ups of stressed skin to prove the effectiveness, and let's just say Dr. Pimple Popper would be proud.
Time to ask your chatbots about Sunday Riley. On June 3, the brand introduced AI Retinoid Serum, a high-tech formula that helps restore skin clarity for optimum filter-free skin. The drop is part of a new acne-treating quartet including a cleanser, mist and salicylic acid serum called 'Peace Keeper.' This is especially fun for Danielle Brooks and John Cena fans, though I fear the name is incidental.
On June 3, Dermalogica introduced a star-shaped carabiner that clamped onto a sunscreen stick from the brand's younger Clear Start line. (Think: The Clinique to Derm's Lauder.) The whole set goes for $30.
On June 4, Truly Beauty dropped its Cherry Baby shimmery body oil as a TikTok Shop exclusive. The $38 moisturiser is a sister scent to Vanilla Baby, an iridescent white shade that's been spotted all over the University of Arizona sorority houses, according to my 19-year-old niece. (The same girl, who is a competitive dancer and science major, reported LoveShackFancy perfume is 'the absolute most popular thing' last year. I trust her.)
Lush took its #1 best-seller, Super Milk Leave-In Conditioner, and turned it into a body shimmer. On June 4, the eco-based brand introduced Super Milk Glitter Mist Spray, a $26 bottle of shiny moisturiser that swaps plastic-based glitter for flecks of titanium dioxide.
Why should Rhode have all the fun? On June 4, Cyklar launched its own body milk, Ceramide Milky Essence, for $30. It's got hyaluronic acid and amino acids, but remains dairy-free.
Should pimple patches have a doctor co-sign them? Hundreds of millions in Starface revenue says 'nah.' Still, Dr. Shereene Idriss debuted her own version on May 29 that claims to handle both blemishes and discoloration. Face Reality introduced its 'professional grade' pimple patches on June 4 for $10… but what are 'amateur grade' ones? A gold star sticker from Staples and a prayer?
Nuface has distilled its skin-lifting tech into a disposable, squishy sheet. On June 4, the brand dropped its Ionplex Hydra-Gel mask, a one-and-done face mask which blends electrolytes and glacial minerals. It's $37 for a pack of five.
Face mists are TikToking along, with a 178% increase in mentions from April to May of this year. Inkey List wants in on the trend with its June 6 drop, the Hydro-Surge Dewy Face Mist, a $13 formula that includes aquaxyl, a moisturising compound that comes from sugar molecules, and 'earth marine water,' which comes from… like… the ocean. Inkey List is also debuting a Cream-to-Milk Cleanser ($19) with rice extracts and hyaluronic acid. Makeup
Remember back in October, when Maybelline sponsored SNL's 50th anniversary season and got a surprise 'bonus' sketch that featured Ariana Grande and Jennifer Coolidge applying its lip gloss? This week, NBC revealed that the fake Maybelline commercial was the third-most watched SNL skit of the season, coming just behind the unstoppable 'Domingo' jingles. Let's see if sales for Maybelline liquid lipstick get a lift from the ratings.
'Shine first, safety second.' That's the tagline for Caliray's Lipguard, a glossy balm with SPF 31 that comes in five surf-inspired shades. It launched on May 29.
Tarte's brand trips are some of the beauty industry's most viral. On May 30, they embraced the jetsetting notoriety with a 12-shade palette of new shades inspired by their tropical destinations. It's called the #TrippinWithTarte palette and retails for $47.
Remember the '90s sleepover staple Caboodles? On June 2, Kimchi Chic unveiled a collab with the beloved neon makeup cases, including a limited-edition mini tote stuffed with four highlighting and contour crayons and a sheet of cutie-pie stickers. It's $32 and adorbs.
Teen dreams do come true! On June 2, MAC Cosmetics created its first-ever Viva Glam Lipglass, a gleaming red shade called Kimmitment after brand ambassador Kim Petras. It's $26 with 100 percent of proceeds going to charities for LGBTQ+ rights, AIDS prevention and environmental justice. Mwah!
Kylie Cosmetics has gone into the gloss. On June 3, the Coty-owned makeup brand introduced four Dew Balm Sticks, which combine the shimmery warmth of a blush and the shiny finish of a skin glaze. They're $28 each, and yes, they resemble Haus Labs' Glassy Highlighter Balms quite a bit, but they cost a teeny bit less.
Get your Jelly Tints with free delivery. Milk Makeup hit Amazon Premium Beauty on June 3 with a robust selection of primers, mascara, brow gel and skin tints.
It's hard to get a good, singular product name but Violette Serrat has done it. The Guerlain creative director and makeup artist behind Violette_FR debuted 'Lip Nectar' on June 3. It's a $29 hydrating lip stain that comes in four colours, including a deep plum and a rich caramel.
The blurry cheek trend continues. On June 3, Soshe debuted Blurring Pillow Blush, a $28 cream-to-powder formula available in four shades, including some deeper hues for richer skin tones.
Thrive Causemetics dropped illuminating eye serums and loose powders ($32 each) on June 4. They're meant to compliment the brand's best-selling Brilliant Eye Brighteners, which are basically cream shadow crayons with some shimmer. Pro tip: You can use the darker shades to make a smoky eye in 10 seconds.
The lip oil wars continue. On June 6, Senegence debuted Lipsense, a line of three super-shiny lip slicks with jojoba, meadowfoam and vitamin C extracts.
Charlotte Tilbury is hitting the thunder road. On June 6, the makeup artist for Kate Moss announced she was officially joining the Dallas Cowboys Cheerleaders as the squad's beauty partner. When I interviewed several DCC stars last year for the Wall Street Journal, they mentioned the brand's setting spray as a favorite… then admitted they also used $3 cans of hairspray because Tilbury's formulas can be pricey. Hopefully now these female athletes — who do so much, so well, and still make around minimum wage — can spritz without going broke.
I got a little nervous when Dazzle Dry announced a Carnival-themed collection, out June 6, but thankfully it's got colours inspired by toffee and jelly beans and not clowns. Phew. Hair Care
Just in time for the Wicked's new trailer, Eva NYC introduced Beyond Gravity, a volume and texture spray that promises hold without any crunchiness and a dose of shine-boosting Vitamin E. It hit shelves June 6.
Philip B. had multitasking in mind for its latest formula, a Weightless Miracle Serum that acts as both a deep conditioner and a flyaway smoother. It's $75 and comes from the eponymous hairstylist brand's own own client base — they wanted a leave-in that worked for finer and thinner hair, and still allowed for movement and bounce. Fragrance
Pretty obsessed with Diptyque's new 'Vinaigre de Toilette,' a multi-purpose drizzle of lavender, thyme and rosemary that can be used as a home or skin fragrance. After Loewe's tomato situation and Bath & Body Works' summer Off the Vine collection, a perfume vinaigrette feels just right for the summer salad trend. It's $92 and arrived on June 1.
I just can't get eau out of my head. (Sorry.) Kylie Minogue dropped a new fragrance called Lovers on June 2 with the nose Ilias Ermenidis, who made everyone's ninth grade obsession Vera Wang Princess back in 2006. More recently, he did a 2023 stint with Parfums de Marly. For Kylie, he's concocted a mix of honeysuckle, tuberose and coconut milk; it's being made by Scent Beauty, the team behind Sabrina Carpenter's fragrance line.
On June 2, Nette's Lemon Puff perfume hit Sephora. The day before, a line around the block formed for the fragrance at New York's Fluffy Fluffy Dessert Cafe, a pancake and souffle shop in the East Village. Looks like their social media campaign, which saturated Instagram with buttery toast and cream-dolloped pastries that flanked bottles of their fragrance, paid off.
A month after Tory Burch's craveable collab with the Swedish candy company Bonbon, Snif debuted Swede Tooth, a perfume 'inspired by the Swedish candy craze' that features notes of watermelon, raspberry, violet and cedarwood. All good choices but guys, where's the salted licorice?!
Byredo debuted Absolu versions of its Rose of No Man's Land and Bal d'Afrique scents on June 5. Each ultra-concentrated formula retails for $385 and has a formula that's been engineered for longevity and amplified scent complexity, which means the brand's subtle papyrus notes can finally give out their full 'Library of Alexandria' vibes. And finally…
Carter Reum is a venture capitalist whose portfolio has included Classpass, Lyft and Shake Shack. He's also the husband of Paris Hilton, and on June 2, he posted to Linkedin in search of a VP for her new skincare brand, Parivie. 'She's sold $4BN of products with her name the last decade so this is a great opportunity for the right person to be in on the ground level of her latest innovative brand!' wrote Reum. Here's the official listing, which is under the umbrella of Hilton's media company 11:11. Put Reum's name down as your referral and see what happens.
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