A different way to travel: What it's like to sail Panama, Costa Rica

Everyone gathered on deck, not minding the hot Panamanian sun beating down, to experience a bucket list item: crossing the Panama Canal. We started the day in the Atlantic Ocean and were in the Pacific Ocean by dinnertime.
The night before, passengers aboard my ship, Le Bellot, were buzzing about the long-awaited event – the excitement was palpable.
I knew before embarking on the January sailing of the Panama and Costa Rica by Sea: The Natural Wonders of Central America – a cruise offering by the French small-ship cruise operator Ponant in partnership with Smithsonian Journeys – that transiting through what's considered one of the world's most impressive engineering feats would be worthwhile. However, my experience on the trip gave me a deeper understanding of why it rightfully captured everyone's attention.
The day prior, I attended a lecture by former diplomat and U.S. Navy officer Hugh Neighbor, one of two Smithsonian Journeys experts on my trip, about the history and significance of the canal. During an onshore excursion at the Biomuseo in Panama City, I learned why the country's unique geographical shape as an isthmus made it the perfect place to connect two oceans.
This intimate yacht-style cruise immersed in the vibrancy of Panama and Costa Rica with an emphasis on responsible tourism – a cornerstone of the five-year-old partnership between Ponant and Smithsonian Journeys, the travel program of the Smithsonian Institution. It's the perfect antidote for cruisers looking to escape the crowds and massive ships without giving up relaxation or a beautiful tropical setting.
These types of expedition and exploration cruises are quickly rising in popularity, with a 71% increase in passengers between 2019 and 2023, according to the Cruise Lines International Association.
"We hope people come back from these trips having learned more than they could (have) imagined about the destination and the people in the destination … that's our No. 1 goal," said Walter Littlejohn, Smithsonian Journeys' senior vice president.
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If you're looking at warm-weather destinations, Panama and Costa Rica may fly under your radar compared to the ever-popular Caribbean. Both Central American countries are home to incredible biodiversity, offering both wild jungles and stunning beaches. When bird-watching in Quepos, Costa Rica, with a family-run tour company, I quickly saw scarlet macaws and toucans before we even reached the site.
They're also easily accessible from the U.S., with flights from Panama and Costa Rica typically ranging from three to six hours.
The six-day voyage on Le Bellot balanced education with leisure. Some nights were a caviar tasting in the main lounge and drinks in the Blue Eye lounge, a bar situated a few meters below sea level with portholes to watch marine life pass by. Onshore excursions consisted of docking in a remote, undeveloped region of Darien National Park to meet the Indigenous Embera people and wandering Panama Viejo – archaeological ruins from 1519 and a World UNESCO Heritage Site.
It wasn't just about learning all the time. We also had a beach and snorkeling day, enjoying the pristine warm waters at Cayos Holandeses, an island in the San Blas archipelago – Panama's version of Hawaii. On this day, we were the only ship docked, allowing us to enjoy the island without dealing with any crowds or feeling like we were overwhelming the community.
Throughout the trip were lectures by Neighbor and Dr. Oris Sanjur – the other expert onboard who is the deputy director of the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute (STRI) in Panama and a Panamanian herself – on topics such as marine conservation research and Costa Rican culture. "This expands horizons and allows people to get to know science from a different perspective, and they're engaged to become ambassadors...to share with others," said Sanjur. Not only did the experts provide lectures, but guests could reserve dinner with them or have chat with them in the lounge.
"You can go by yourself, for example, to some of these destinations, but you may not understand the backstory, the history," said Littlejohn, who added that every Smithsonian Journeys trip has at least one expert who went through an intensive vetting process. "All of these folks have a level of insight into these destinations that an average guide simply cannot deliver."
Smithsonian Journeys also infuses its longstanding relationships with research organizations worldwide into its Ponant cruises. One day, I toured STRI to learn more about its scientific work, like protecting whales from ships entering the canal, and spotted several sloths and iguanas on property.
The Panama and Costa Rica cruise starts at $6,420 per person for a double occupancy room, with excursions, food, and most drinks included in the cost.
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All Smithsonian Journeys' trips are deeply rooted in sustainability and small group experiences, and its cruises with Ponant are no different. The ships are small – mine held up to 184 passengers – and focus on minimizing its impact, from how the ship runs to the places we visited. "Wherever we do go, we have a smaller footprint, smaller presence in the destination so it allows the destination to retain its character in a more meaningful way, protect its environment in a more meaningful way," Littlejohn said.
Ponant's entire fleet holds the CLEANSHIP certification, recognizing a commitment to low environmental impact through the use of cleaner diesel and strict waste traceability measures. Set to launch this year, the company's 14th ship will sail entirely off biofuel and wind and water propulsion.
Next year, the two travel entities will have 36 sailings together – including more expedition-style cruises – from the popular Antarctica and Greek islands, along with some new destinations like Madagascar and the Seychelles and Indonesia.
This article originally appeared on USA TODAY: Why travelers should try this green cruise to Panama and Costa Rica

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