11 underrated Asian dishes (and why you should absolutely be eating them)
2. Brinjal moju (Sri Lanka)
Sri Lanka is perhaps the centre of underrated Asian dishes. Brinjal moju is essentially eggplant but with an edge. Sliced into batons, deep-fried to a caramelised crisp, then doused in a pickled blend of vinegar, mustard seeds, chilli and sugar, brinjal moju hits all the high notes: sweet, sour, spicy, umami. Served as a side dish in rice-and-curry spreads, it often plays second fiddle unfairly. It deserves to be the star of the plate.
Again, Sri Lankan food as a whole is criminally underrepresented abroad, and the word 'moju' doesn't exactly roll off the tongue. But for eggplant sceptics, this dish can be a revelation. 3. Chim chum (Thailand/Laos)
Above (Photo: Takeaway / Wikimedia Commons)
Chim chum isn't just dinner—it's an experience. Diners gather around a clay pot over charcoal, cooking thin slices of pork, leafy greens and glass noodles in a bubbling herbal broth infused with galangal, lemongrass and kaffir lime. It's casual, communal and deeply aromatic. The underrated factor? Chim chum doesn't have the glamour of tom yum or pad thai, and it's rarely seen on Western menus. But its DIY style, perfumed broth and built-in social vibe make it an ideal gateway to Southeast Asian home cooking. 4. Oo-peh-tshiat (Taiwan)
Above (Photo: Rockhsp / Wikimedia Commons)
Translating to 'randomly sliced', this cold platter of blanched meats and offal might not win beauty contests, but it wins on pure flavour. Served with intensely savoury dips like garlic soy or chilli oil, it's Taiwan's answer to charcuterie. The texture is chewy, slippery, tender—sometimes all at once. It may not be getting as much love due to offal being a central ingredient, plus the dish's minimal presentation is hardly social-media friendly. But it's the rest of the world that needs to adjust. For anyone serious about nose-to-tail dining, oo-peh-tshiat is a masterclass. 5. Yuxiang rousi (China)
Translated as 'fish-fragrant pork', though it contains no fish, this Sichuan classic features shredded pork stir-fried with wood ear mushrooms, bamboo shoots and a sauce of chilli bean paste, garlic and vinegar. The result? A sticky-sweet, spicy-sour flavour bomb with absurd depth. As far as Asian dishes go, the name is misleading, and yuxiang rousi often gets overshadowed by better-known Sichuan fare like mapo tofu. But once you understand the poetic misdirection of 'fish-fragrant', a style, not a literal descriptor, you'll understand why locals adore it. 6. Thịt kho tàu (Vietnam)
Comfort food at its most poetic: pork belly and hard-boiled eggs slow-braised in coconut water, fish sauce and caramelised sugar. How is your mouth not watering at that description? The broth turns deep amber, rich yet mellow. Traditionally eaten during Tết (Lunar New Year), it tastes like home, memory and quiet celebration. Unfortunately, it doesn't get the love it deserves, probably because it lacks the immediate pop of herbs and crunch that makes pho, bánh mì or other Asian dishes so camera-ready. But give it a slow hour with steamed rice, and it will reward you with warmth and nostalgia. 7. Stir-fried water spinach (various regions)
Above (Photo: Obsidian Soul / Wikimedia Commons)
Known as kangkong, morning glory or ong choy, this aquatic vegetable has regional flavour variations across Asia. In the Philippines, it's stir-fried with garlic and bagoong (fermented shrimp paste) for a pungent, umami kick. In Thai cuisine, pad pak boong adds bird's eye chilies and soy sauce for a spicier, smokier profile. Meanwhile, in Chinese kitchens, ong choy is often wok-fried with fermented bean curd, offering a creamier, more mellow note.
These shifts in seasoning not only highlight local preferences but also reveal the plant's incredible adaptability—from briny to sweet, bold to delicate—making it a quiet yet essential canvas in Southeast Asian cooking. It's usually seen as too cheap, quick and humble to headline. But ask anyone from Thailand to the Philippines, and they'll tell you: no rice meal should be complete without it. 8. Salted egg yolk crab (Southeast Asia)
Above (Photo: Sanjai Sudheesh / Pexels)
You might argue that salted egg had its moment a decade ago, but only the flavour and not this particular dish. At least not really. Salted egg yolk crab is maximalism on a plate: deep-fried and tossed in a thick, grainy sauce of mashed salted duck egg yolks, curry leaves and butter. It's creamy, funky and dangerously addictive. Found in Singapore and Malaysia, it's a celebration dish that never quite cracked the global seafood scene. Why? Salted egg yolk anything is still niche outside Asia, and cracking crab isn't for the faint of heart. But for fans of bold, savoury decadence, this is it. 9. Popiah basah (Malaysia/Singapore)
A soft spring roll packed with julienned jicama, egg, tofu and sometimes shrimp or Chinese sausage, wrapped in a delicate crepe and drizzled with sweet bean sauce. It's juicy, fresh and perfectly balanced. Unlike its fried relatives, popiah basah is tender and textural, a snack that eats like a meal. Why the low profile? It's tricky to make, perishable and doesn't travel well. That said, it might be one of Southeast Asia's best-kept lunch secrets.
See more: The most underrated Malaysian dishes, according to chefs 10. Douhua (China)
Above (Photo: David / Wikimedia Commons)
A warm or cold tofu dessert that's barely held together, douhua is all about texture. Imagine silken curds bathed in ginger syrup, brown sugar or even savoury sauces in some regions. It's light, calming and deeply nostalgic for many Chinese families. Why it's slept on? Tofu maintains its reputation as a health food or meat substitute. But douhua isn't trying to imitate anything. It's an original, and it's glorious. 11. Dinakdakan (Philippines)
A bold and boisterous dish from the Ilocos region, dinakdakan is made from grilled pig parts—typically ears, face and sometimes brain—chopped finely and tossed with onions, calamansi juice, vinegar and sometimes a touch of mayo for creaminess. It's tangy, smoky and rich, with a delightful chew. Unfortunately, it's one of those Asian dishes whose reputation takes a hit thanks to the innards in the ingredients. But if sisig can get through that hurdle, so can dinakdakan. Those who love lechon and texture will enjoy this culinary gem. It's bold, ancestral and unapologetically local.
Don't miss: 11 classic Filipino dishes everyone needs to try: sinigang, adobo, and more
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Tatler Asia
5 days ago
- Tatler Asia
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Time Out
13-06-2025
- Time Out
We took Southeast Asia's most luxurious sleeper train – here is what it's like
It's gala night aboard Belmond's Eastern & Oriental Express. Guests are gathered in the gilded piano bar car dressed in their best slinky gowns, pressed suits, and a fur coat or two. We're here for one final night of entertainment. Bathed in the warm golden glow of vintage-style lamps, our songstress takes an audience request and swings into 'Top of the World' by the Carpenters, her husky tones gliding over the tinkling piano keys – and always, the soft rush of rails under our feet. It's been an enchanting three days on Southeast Asia's most luxurious sleeper train. The E&O Express is the younger Southeast Asian sibling of the Venice Simplon-Orient Express, itself descended from the legendary Orient Express of 1883. Refashioned and regauged from New Zealand's Silver Star stock, the E&O Express first pulled out of Tanjong Pagar Railway Station in Singapore in 1993, plying a route to Bangkok, Thailand. After a brief hiatus thanks to the COVID-19 pandemic in 2020, the emerald-and-cream beauty resumed operations in late 2024 with refurbished cabins and refreshed excursions. It now traces two languorous routes through central Malaysia: one forks at Gemas with endpoints in Merapoh and Butterworth, and the other hugs the coast en route to Perlis. We'd seen the pictures on social media: sumptuous interiors dripping with vintage glamour. They catapulted the E&O Express to the top of our bucket list – reserved, we thought, for our retirement years or a miraculous windfall. So, when the chance arose to ride the first route, Wild Malaysia, we packed our flashiest outfits and hopped aboard. First impressions: rolling out the red carpet The E&O Express experience begins right at our doorstep. A luxury car collects us from home, and we pick over the selection of local drinks and snacks to last us the 20-minute ride to Woodlands Checkpoint. 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It's a jewel box of marine blues and greens inspired by Penang's seaside locale, which pop against glossy, marquetry wood walls. The tables bloom with tropical plants and fruits – birds of paradise, dragonfruit – all washed in natural light pouring in from two generous windows. There are silky soft dressing gowns and slippers so plush that I often forget to switch them out for proper shoes when leaving the cabin. Every time we're off at dinner, our lovely carriage attendant, Navein, squirrels in to draw the cream curtains and convert the seats into two cosy beds, complete with linens embroidered with the E&O Express logo. He leaves surprises behind every day: our favourite is an anthology of poems and short stories commissioned by Belmond, a literary romp through the untold stories of Malaysia. Unlike the Venice Simplon-Orient Express, every cabin on this train comes with an en-suite bathroom. It's snug – even for two fairly petite ladies like us – but admirably designed to fit a toilet, sink, and shower, with thoughtfully placed hooks and storage compartments. It's a good idea to grip the handlebars while showering to avoid potentially gnarly slips. We swipe some of the luxury toiletries at the end of the trip – in fact, we're encouraged to. The dining: fine dining fusion fare by Chef Andre Chiang Part of the E&O Express's charm is its leisurely pace: we spend blissful downtime in our cabin watching Malaysia's landscape sweep by as the train snakes through the snatching fingers of Taman Negara National Park's lush forest, past waving palm plantations, and by numerous towns we've never heard of. But if watching all this life flash by leaves us feeling a little untethered at times, then Chef André Chiang's fine dining fare is a welcome grounding force. Born in Taiwan, raised in Japan, and trained in France, Chef André is the former head of the three-Michelin-star Le Jardin des Sens and founder of the two-star Restaurant André in Singapore. His onboard menu was expectedly refined, comfortingly unpretentious, and so very delicious. Amidst the rattle of linen-covered tables laden with hand-cut crystalware and fine china, familiar Malaysian flavours show up in bold, surprising forms: refreshing kaffir lime consommé stirred with a stick of lemongrass, bouillabaisse jazzed up with laksa spices, and coconut blancmange with Nyonya chendol. Chef André plucks flavours from other Asian cuisines too, lacing a shrimp and clam bisque with miso, and nestling kimchi alongside delicately seared tuna in an unassuming nicoise salad. A good representation of Malaysia's cultural melting pot. Everything else: hyperlocal excursions in the heart of Malaysia We should add that you'll be very, very stuffed from (at least) four meals a day. Good for us then, that we have to trot at least seven carriages down to the two dining cars for meals. Nevertheless, we welcomed the daily excursions – an opportunity to stretch our legs and check out the locality. Belmond has curated something for everyone: the nature nuts, the wellness seekers, the foodies, the artsy fartsy. We flow through yoga poses in front of a towering limestone cliff in Taman Negara National Park before laying in a flat, wide stream for a sound bath experience. Throughout the experience, our guide, Xin Wei from The Habitat Group, chatters merrily about the wildlife of the national park, pointing out whooping monkey calls, pretty nesting birds, and even elephant poop. Others follow a tiger conservationist to walk in the footsteps of the elusive felines, and yet more zip off on e-bikes to explore Merapoh's caves. In Penang, we trade the sweltering city centre for the cool climes at the peak of Penang Hill, cooking Chinese and Indian snacks in the shade of a gorgeous villa. Other guests hop onto Vespas for an art tour of Georgetown or into rickshaws for a self-guided tour of the UNESCO Historic Site. Downtime is spent in our private cabins or bar cars – easily the train's most visually striking. We witness many a fast friendship made over free-flowing champagne and cocktails, picked from a whimsical, tropical-themed menu with storybook-like pop-ups and cutouts. Other entertainment: coffee tasting sessions, mindful mandala-colouring workshops, or wind-in-your-hair moments in the observation car, particularly thrilling while the train whizzes through the thickest parts of the Malaysian jungle. Is it worth it? Here's the deal: a journey on the E&O Express starts at US$4,650 for a 4D3N trip in the Pullman cabin – and only goes up from there. Friends and family in Singapore are bewildered: 'Wait, that much just to go to Penang?' We understand. Those based in Asia don't expect to drop more than a couple of hundred dollars on a trip to Malaysia. But we'd argue that a journey on the E&O Express is more than just "going to Penang". It's aspirational travel at its finest, offering an immersive, high-style homage to the golden age of train travel, an opportunity to live out the fantasy of the Orient Express, and to really slow down and savour the journey (not just the destination). Pepper in some Malaysian charm – in the food, the exclusive excursions, and the distinct warmth of the local crew – and you've got a winner. Whether it's worth cashing out on the fantasy still comes down to your budget and travel style. But as we step off the train in Singapore — like slipping back through the wardrobe from Narnia – it crosses our mind: we'll be back, sometime, somehow.
Tatler Asia
11-06-2025
- Tatler Asia
11 underrated Asian dishes (and why you should absolutely be eating them)
2. Brinjal moju (Sri Lanka) Sri Lanka is perhaps the centre of underrated Asian dishes. Brinjal moju is essentially eggplant but with an edge. Sliced into batons, deep-fried to a caramelised crisp, then doused in a pickled blend of vinegar, mustard seeds, chilli and sugar, brinjal moju hits all the high notes: sweet, sour, spicy, umami. Served as a side dish in rice-and-curry spreads, it often plays second fiddle unfairly. It deserves to be the star of the plate. Again, Sri Lankan food as a whole is criminally underrepresented abroad, and the word 'moju' doesn't exactly roll off the tongue. But for eggplant sceptics, this dish can be a revelation. 3. Chim chum (Thailand/Laos) Above (Photo: Takeaway / Wikimedia Commons) Chim chum isn't just dinner—it's an experience. Diners gather around a clay pot over charcoal, cooking thin slices of pork, leafy greens and glass noodles in a bubbling herbal broth infused with galangal, lemongrass and kaffir lime. It's casual, communal and deeply aromatic. The underrated factor? Chim chum doesn't have the glamour of tom yum or pad thai, and it's rarely seen on Western menus. But its DIY style, perfumed broth and built-in social vibe make it an ideal gateway to Southeast Asian home cooking. 4. Oo-peh-tshiat (Taiwan) Above (Photo: Rockhsp / Wikimedia Commons) Translating to 'randomly sliced', this cold platter of blanched meats and offal might not win beauty contests, but it wins on pure flavour. Served with intensely savoury dips like garlic soy or chilli oil, it's Taiwan's answer to charcuterie. The texture is chewy, slippery, tender—sometimes all at once. It may not be getting as much love due to offal being a central ingredient, plus the dish's minimal presentation is hardly social-media friendly. But it's the rest of the world that needs to adjust. For anyone serious about nose-to-tail dining, oo-peh-tshiat is a masterclass. 5. Yuxiang rousi (China) Translated as 'fish-fragrant pork', though it contains no fish, this Sichuan classic features shredded pork stir-fried with wood ear mushrooms, bamboo shoots and a sauce of chilli bean paste, garlic and vinegar. The result? A sticky-sweet, spicy-sour flavour bomb with absurd depth. As far as Asian dishes go, the name is misleading, and yuxiang rousi often gets overshadowed by better-known Sichuan fare like mapo tofu. But once you understand the poetic misdirection of 'fish-fragrant', a style, not a literal descriptor, you'll understand why locals adore it. 6. Thịt kho tàu (Vietnam) Comfort food at its most poetic: pork belly and hard-boiled eggs slow-braised in coconut water, fish sauce and caramelised sugar. How is your mouth not watering at that description? The broth turns deep amber, rich yet mellow. Traditionally eaten during Tết (Lunar New Year), it tastes like home, memory and quiet celebration. Unfortunately, it doesn't get the love it deserves, probably because it lacks the immediate pop of herbs and crunch that makes pho, bánh mì or other Asian dishes so camera-ready. But give it a slow hour with steamed rice, and it will reward you with warmth and nostalgia. 7. Stir-fried water spinach (various regions) Above (Photo: Obsidian Soul / Wikimedia Commons) Known as kangkong, morning glory or ong choy, this aquatic vegetable has regional flavour variations across Asia. In the Philippines, it's stir-fried with garlic and bagoong (fermented shrimp paste) for a pungent, umami kick. In Thai cuisine, pad pak boong adds bird's eye chilies and soy sauce for a spicier, smokier profile. Meanwhile, in Chinese kitchens, ong choy is often wok-fried with fermented bean curd, offering a creamier, more mellow note. These shifts in seasoning not only highlight local preferences but also reveal the plant's incredible adaptability—from briny to sweet, bold to delicate—making it a quiet yet essential canvas in Southeast Asian cooking. It's usually seen as too cheap, quick and humble to headline. But ask anyone from Thailand to the Philippines, and they'll tell you: no rice meal should be complete without it. 8. Salted egg yolk crab (Southeast Asia) Above (Photo: Sanjai Sudheesh / Pexels) You might argue that salted egg had its moment a decade ago, but only the flavour and not this particular dish. At least not really. Salted egg yolk crab is maximalism on a plate: deep-fried and tossed in a thick, grainy sauce of mashed salted duck egg yolks, curry leaves and butter. It's creamy, funky and dangerously addictive. Found in Singapore and Malaysia, it's a celebration dish that never quite cracked the global seafood scene. Why? Salted egg yolk anything is still niche outside Asia, and cracking crab isn't for the faint of heart. But for fans of bold, savoury decadence, this is it. 9. Popiah basah (Malaysia/Singapore) A soft spring roll packed with julienned jicama, egg, tofu and sometimes shrimp or Chinese sausage, wrapped in a delicate crepe and drizzled with sweet bean sauce. It's juicy, fresh and perfectly balanced. Unlike its fried relatives, popiah basah is tender and textural, a snack that eats like a meal. Why the low profile? It's tricky to make, perishable and doesn't travel well. That said, it might be one of Southeast Asia's best-kept lunch secrets. See more: The most underrated Malaysian dishes, according to chefs 10. Douhua (China) Above (Photo: David / Wikimedia Commons) A warm or cold tofu dessert that's barely held together, douhua is all about texture. Imagine silken curds bathed in ginger syrup, brown sugar or even savoury sauces in some regions. It's light, calming and deeply nostalgic for many Chinese families. Why it's slept on? Tofu maintains its reputation as a health food or meat substitute. But douhua isn't trying to imitate anything. It's an original, and it's glorious. 11. Dinakdakan (Philippines) A bold and boisterous dish from the Ilocos region, dinakdakan is made from grilled pig parts—typically ears, face and sometimes brain—chopped finely and tossed with onions, calamansi juice, vinegar and sometimes a touch of mayo for creaminess. It's tangy, smoky and rich, with a delightful chew. Unfortunately, it's one of those Asian dishes whose reputation takes a hit thanks to the innards in the ingredients. But if sisig can get through that hurdle, so can dinakdakan. Those who love lechon and texture will enjoy this culinary gem. It's bold, ancestral and unapologetically local. Don't miss: 11 classic Filipino dishes everyone needs to try: sinigang, adobo, and more
