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Montreal nabs 3 one-stars as Michelin Guide debuts in Quebec

Montreal nabs 3 one-stars as Michelin Guide debuts in Quebec

Inspectors for the inaugural Michelin Guide Quebec were clearly taken by the province's cuisine scene, doling out props to 102 restaurants. But breaking down the numbers on a city-to-city basis, it's obvious that Michelin's inspectors — all anonymous — were clearly more bedazzled by the food offerings emanating from our provincial capital than those from Montreal.
While more attention was given to Montreal and Quebec City, the guide's mandate was the entire province.
In the categories that matter most to restauranteurs and foodies — the two-star and one-star Michelin categories — the provincial capital dominated. Quebec City's legendary Tanière 3 snagged the only two-star awarded in the province, and of the eight one-stars given, four came from the aforementioned burgh.
Michelin also awards the highly coveted but extremely rare three-star citation, but none yet have come to this country. According to Michelin, those awarded two stars dispense 'excellent cuisine worth a detour,' while one-star recipients denote 'high quality cooking — worth a stop.'
In the minds of many gourmets, Michelin is considered to be the benchmark for what constitutes fine dining around much of the world.
So in what will come as quite the shock to Montrealers — myself included — who hold our haute cuisine in such high esteem, the city only earned three one-stars in the Michelin guide: Jérôme Ferrer – Europea, Mastard and Saboyan. The eighth Michelin one-star went to Rimouski's Narval.
Such local favourites like Mon Lapin — which copped the top spot on Canada's top 100 list in 2023 and 2024 and came second this year — as well as Beba, Le Violon, Montréal Plaza, Joe Beef, Au Pied du Cochon, Damas, Monarque and many more had to settle for just Michelin's Recommended list. Also among the 76 Recommends in this grouping were eateries as diverse as the high-end Toqué! and the lower-end Schwartz's.
For the record, Mastard finished 40th and Saboyan, 48th and Jérôme Ferrer – Europea didn't make it at all on the recently released 11th annual Canada's 100 Best Restaurants 2025.
Between the starred restos and the Recommended ones on the Michelin scale are the Bib Gourmands, which recognize spots 'for great food at great value.' On its list of 17 Bibs are seven from Montreal: Annette bar à vin, Cadet, Casavant, Le Petit Alep, L'Express, Parapluie and Rôtisserie La Lune. The latter eatery is the newly minted BBQ creation of Mon Lapin's Vanya Filipovic and Marc-Olivier Frappier.
Michelin judges doled out eight Bibs to Quebec City.
'Our anonymous Inspectors were thoroughly impressed with their dining experiences across the entire province of Quebec,' said Gwendal Poullennec, international director of the Michelin Guide, in a press release. 'The selection boasts a wide array of distinctions and cuisine types — from Stars to Bib Gourmands to Recommended restaurants — all highlighting unique regional ingredients and extraordinary techniques.'
The Michelin selections were officially announced Thursday at a small reception at Casavant, a Bib Gourmand recipient. In addition to Poullennec, also attending were Geneviève Cantin, CEO of Alliance de l'industrie touristique du Québec, Manuela Goya, vice-president of Tourisme Montréal and Sebastien Benedict, vice-president of the Alliance.
Their presence was no accident as these provincial tourism associations among others were involved in ponying up an 'estimated $1 million' — according to one inside source choosing to remain anonymous — to bring the Michelin judging team around the province.
'But that's a small price to pay for what it will likely bring to the province and its restaurants by tourists and locals alike,' the source said.
On the surface, it appears the province did quite well with its 102 Michelin mentions. But it seems clear here that Montreal restaurants have no bragging rights over their counterparts in Toronto and Vancouver, bearing in mind that the Quebec guide covers the province while the latter cities are largely city-based.
In the debut Michelin Guide Toronto released in 2022, the city netted one two-star and 12 one-star notices plus 17 Bibs and 45 Recommends for a total of 74 citations. As of 2024, Toronto has 15 one-star and still only one two-star mentions for a total of 100 when Bibs and Recommends are added in.
In the initial Michelin Guide Vancouver also released in 2022, the city fared better than ours with eight spots receiving one star (and none receiving two) plus 12 Bibs and 40 Recommends for a total of 60. Last year's guide included 10 one-star citations and a total of 76 when its 16 Bibs and 50 Recommends were factored in.
Though not part of the 102 honourees, the Michelin Guide Quebec has saluted three Green-Starred restaurants for their sustainability and culinary prowess: Quebec City's Alentours, St-Mathieu-du-Parc's Auberge Saint-Mathieu and Stanbridge East's Espace Old Mill.
In addition, the guide announced four special prizes: the Michelin Sommelier Award to Mon Lapin/Rôtisserie La Lune's Vanya Filipovic; Michelin Exceptional Cocktails Award to fellow Montrealer, Foxy's Véronique Dalle; Michelin Outstanding Service Award to Tanière 3's Roxan Bourdelais; and Michelin Young Chef Award to Kebec Club Privé's Cassandre Osterroth and Pierre-Olivier Pelletier.
****
Where did the stars go?
These are the Michelin Guide Quebec's assessments of the one Quebec City restaurant awarded two stars and three Montreal spots given one star:
TWO STARS
Tanière 3: 'This 'den' (tanière) has, beneath its ancestral vaults, a series of four rooms, one of which affords views of the brigade at work, plus a counter surrounding the open kitchen. In what might be described as his gastronomic research laboratory, avant-garde chef François-Emmanuel Nicol explores all the nuances to be derived from the immense terroir of Quebec's boreal zone. Sophisticated cooking methods, succulent sauces and a rigorous balance of flavours make this cuisine a resounding triumph.'
ONE STAR
Jérôme Ferrer – Europea: 'Housed in an ultra-modern architectural setting, this restaurant offers diners a wonderful view of the team at work in the glass-paned kitchen. The chef has stylishly carved out his niche in the Belle Province. Fusing French culinary traditions with the riches of Quebec's terroir, his menu celebrates local ingredients.'
Mastard: 'Quite a way off the beaten track, Mastard is led by chef-owner Simon Mathys. The contemporary space, designed for around 50 diners, is organized around a bar-counter. The chef devises a resolutely original carte blanche menu centred on local ingredients. Every dish is made with quality produce and executed in a modern and trendy style that won't fail to make an impression.'
Saboyan: 'The chef has taken an atypical route to this kitchen, having trained in pâtisserie before turning his hand to cooking. Patrice Demers creates vivid, accessible and unpretentious dishes that allow the Quebec terroir to shine … Add to that the smooth and elegant service orchestrated by Marie-Josée Beaudoin but bear in mind that getting a table here is no mean feat!'
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Cook This: 3 'reimagined' Jewish recipes from Arthurs, including challah French toast
Cook This: 3 'reimagined' Jewish recipes from Arthurs, including challah French toast

Vancouver Sun

timea day ago

  • Vancouver Sun

Cook This: 3 'reimagined' Jewish recipes from Arthurs, including challah French toast

Our cookbook of the week is Arthurs: Home of the Nosh by Raegan Steinberg and Alexander Cohen, co-owners of Montreal's Arthurs Nosh Bar, with writer Evelyne Eng. Jump to the recipes: challah French toast , smoked salmon panzanella salad and cheese blintzes . Raegan Steinberg paid homage to her late father, Arthur Steinberg, with a restaurant. She and her husband, executive chef Alexander Cohen, opened Arthurs Nosh Bar in 2016. Today, Montrealers (and the occasional visiting celebrity ) line up for a seat at their luncheonette. 'Reimagined' Jewish fare, including syrniki (Eastern European cottage cheese pancakes), latkes, challah French toast and ever-changing shakshuka, reflects their heritage: Raegan's 'Romanian-Russian-Ashkenazi' and Cohen's 'Moroccan-Spanish-Sephardic.' Discover the best of B.C.'s recipes, restaurants and wine. By signing up you consent to receive the above newsletter from Postmedia Network Inc. A welcome email is on its way. If you don't see it, please check your junk folder. The next issue of West Coast Table will soon be in your inbox. Please try again Interested in more newsletters? Browse here. Nine years after opening Arthurs' doors, with three restaurants — including American-style bistro Romies — Raegan and Cohen (with writer Evelyne Eng) carry on Arthur's legacy in a cookbook, Arthurs: Home of the Nosh (Appetite by Random House, 2025). 'I feel like maybe that was my life's purpose,' says Raegan. 'I never thought I would lose my dad, and that really shifted my whole life. And I'm so grateful that my husband was on board and willing to create this — conceptualize this whole thing we've done.' She explains that Arthur was a food lover well before the term 'foodie' took hold. Her family's life revolved around eating, the where and the what. 'From a young age, all of us were introduced to food in a way that I don't know necessarily all families were.' Raegan began her culinary career in Montreal at Mandy's Gourmet Salads . After attending culinary school at the Art Institute of Vancouver, she worked at celebrated restaurants such as the Blue Water Cafe and Joe Beef . Cooking professionally became entwined with processing the trauma of losing her father. 'It was such an easy way just to forget. You're working with your hands. You put your head down. You work.' Being a chef wasn't what Raegan had expected to be doing, but she embraced it. 'I loved meeting people from all walks of life, and we all came together for this one purpose, and I loved the energy of the service.' Today, she oversees business development at Arthurs Nosh Bar. 'I'll always love food, making food and being creative with food. To be the best chef you can be, you need to be 100 per cent focused, and I don't think I could do that wearing all the hats. I love doing the other parts. I love working on the marketing and the branding, and I love building something from scratch and conceptualizing it.' In the book, Raegan says it was important for them to share 'the realistic sacrifices' people make in the food industry as well as the dishes and style of cooking Arthurs is known for. 'To be a chef, to be an entrepreneur, to own a restaurant — it's really hard work, and it's not always super fruitful. Every day is a challenge. And I wanted people to know, and I wanted people to resonate with the humour and the humility of the relationships and the day-to-day.' Arthurs is a tribute, but it's also a celebration. The book features the stories behind the restaurant and more than 115 recipes, including menu mainstays, Raegan and Cohen's family favourites and 'dream' recipes that may not suit high-volume restaurant cooking (e.g., pierogi, chicken liver spread and desserts — besides the babka and cookies they offer) but are the perfect fit for the home kitchen. Chapters focus on breakfast and brunch, soups, salads and sandwiches, deli and nosh, Shabbat, drinks and desserts. Arthurs goes in-depth into making staples such as smoked salmon, gravlax and beef bacon from scratch. Cohen is the executive chef of Arthurs Nosh Bar, and the book's recipes reflect his creative and detailed approach. He 'cooks from his heart and his nostalgia,' says Raegan. Cohen's parents moved to Montreal from Morocco as teenagers, and he draws inspiration from his large family, heritage and research. 'The way Alex cooks and the methods he uses aren't basic,' says Raegan. 'I hope people love that because it's not one of those cookbooks where there's six ingredients, and then you have a salad.' Take Arthurs' granola recipe, for instance, which has three parts and comes with the warning, 'No, you cannot just combine all the ingredients together at the beginning: it doesn't turn out well.' This is a 'signature Alex move,' says Raegan. 'I hate to say it, but usually he's right. It doesn't come out the same when you skip the step. Maybe some of it, a regular person might not notice, but I think that's what elevated our simple food, was these little extra details.' Makes: 8 slices (serves 4) 8 (2-inch-thick) slices challah 3 egg yolks 1/2 cup (100 g) granulated sugar 3/4 cup + 2 tbsp (210 mL) whipping cream 1/2 cup + 1/3 cup (200 mL) whole milk 1 tbsp honey 1/2 tsp pure vanilla extract 1/2 cinnamon stick or 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon Clarified butter, for cooking Place the challah slices in one layer on a sheet tray and leave in the fridge overnight, uncovered, to stale. Alternatively, you can dry them in the oven at low heat for 30 minutes. When you're ready to make the French toast, preheat the oven to 325F (165C). In a bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and sugar until you reach the ribbon stage (when you lift up the whisk, the batter that falls from it should form a thick trail that rests on the surface of the batter for a few seconds before disappearing). In a saucepan, combine the whipping cream, milk, honey, vanilla and cinnamon stick (if using ground cinnamon, add it after the liquids have been reduced in the next step). Bring the mixture to a boil. Once it scalds, whisk down the bubbles and lower the heat. Reduce the mixture by 20 per cent, whisking often so it doesn't burn. (If it does burn, do not scratch at the bottom. Instead, transfer the mixture to a separate pot and continue.) Remove the cinnamon stick (or, if using ground cinnamon, stir it in now). Very, very slowly, stream the hot liquid into the egg and sugar mixture, whisking constantly so the eggs don't scramble. Allow to sit for 15 minutes so the air bubbles pop, then transfer to a large, shallow dish. Let cool slightly. Submerge the challah in the mixture. Let soak for about 3 minutes, flipping a few times (see note). You know it's done when some liquid comes out of the bread when you squeeze it. Slick a skillet, preferably cast iron, with clarified butter, and bring it to medium heat. Fry the challah on each side until golden brown. Finish the challah in the oven for 3 minutes. You'll know it's done when it looks fluffy and bounces back when you poke it. Note: The fresher the bread, the longer you soak it. The staler the bread, the shorter you soak it. If your bread is basically breadcrumbs, or if you've dried it in the oven, simply dunk it and take it out, otherwise it'll fall apart. Serves: 1 Butter, for toasting 1 sesame bagel 1 tsp sliced Cascabella pepper 1 tbsp Bulgarian feta 1 large pinch thinly sliced Vidalia onion 1/2 tsp Pickled Mustard Seeds ( recipe follows ) 1/4 avocado, diced 4 cherry tomatoes, halved 1/3 Lebanese cucumber, sliced into half-moons 1/4 white nectarine, diced 1/4 cup (60 mL) White Balsamic Vinaigrette ( recipe follows ) 14 per cent sour cream, for dolloping 3 slices (2.6 oz/75 g total) smoked salmon Fresh dill, for garnish Butter and toast the bagel. Cut it into 1/2-inch pieces. For one salad, use just a quarter of the bagel. In a bowl, combine the bagel pieces, Cascabella, feta, onion, Pickled Mustard Seeds, avocado, tomatoes, cucumber and nectarine. Drizzle everything with the White Balsamic Vinaigrette. Transfer to a serving dish and dollop the sour cream all over. Drape the smoked salmon slices over the salad so that it blankets everything. Season with salt, black pepper and a good pinch of dill. Makes: 2 cups 1 1/4 cups (300 mL) champagne vinegar Scant 1/2 cup (100 mL) apple juice 3 1/3 tbsp (50 mL) white balsamic vinegar 3 1/3 tbsp (50 mL) water 1/4 cup + 1 tbsp (60 g) granulated sugar 1 tbsp salt 1 1/2 tsp mustard powder Scant 1 cup (200 g) yellow mustard seeds 1 large French shallot, halved In a large bowl, stir together all ingredients, minus the mustard seeds and shallot. Place the mustard seeds in a medium pot and cover generously with water. Bring to a boil, then drain and discard the water. Repeat another six times. The repetitions are optional, but it will soften the bitter tannins of the mustard seeds and remove their gumminess. Stir the mustard seeds into the bowl with the other ingredients, then add the shallot. Cover and let sit overnight in the fridge before using. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 3 months. Keep the residual liquid to use, with or without the seeds (it works great as a vinaigrette ingredient). 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The next day, blend the strained cottage cheese in a blender until smooth. Transfer it to a large bowl, along with the strained ricotta, cream cheese, egg, powdered sugar and a bit of lemon zest. Stir to combine. In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs and milk until fully smooth. In a large bowl, mix together the flour, sugar and salt. Transfer one-third of the liquid mixture to a small bowl, and stir in the sour cream little by little until there are no lumps. Add the butter and oil and mix until incorporated. Transfer back into the original liquid mixture and whisk to combine. Pour half of the liquid mixture into the dry mixture. Using a large spatula, mix until no lumps remain. Add the rest and stir well to fully combine. Let rest for 20 minutes before using. Set an 8-inch nonstick skillet over medium-low, and lightly brush it with clarified butter. Tilt the pan toward you, then ladle about 1/3 cup of batter into the pan. Rotate the pan to evenly spread the batter in a circle. Cook just until the side facing up is cooked through (it will turn matte). Repeat the process for each crêpe, brushing the pan with clarified butter between each one. Lay one crêpe on a plate, browned side facing up. Place about 1/3 cup of Cheese Filling at the lower-middle part of the crêpe, leaving a bit of space around the edges. (As you go, you'll figure out what the best amount of filling is and where to place it.) Fold in the short ends and roll it, burrito style, making sure the closing seam faces down and is somewhat centred. If you don't get a perfect roll, it's not a huge deal, but it will help seal the blintz when you fry it. Add some more clarified butter to the nonstick skillet and set over medium heat. Place the blintzes, seam side down, in the pan. Fry until golden, then flip and repeat. Work in batches to avoid crowding. Serve immediately with jam, fresh fruit, sweetened sour cream, and crumbled meringue. If serving at a later time, reheat in a 300F (150C) oven for a few minutes, or gently resear in a pan. Recipes and images excerpted from Arthurs: Home of the Nosh by Raegan Steinberg, Alexander Cohen and Evelyne Eng. Copyright ©2025 Raegan Steinberg, Alexander Cohen and Evelyne Eng. Photographs by Karolina Jez. Published by Appetite by Random House®, a division of Penguin Random House Canada Limited. Reproduced by arrangement with the Publisher. All rights reserved. Our website is the place for the latest breaking news, exclusive scoops, longreads and provocative commentary. Please bookmark and sign up for our cookbook and recipe newsletter, Cook This, here .

British Food and Music Shine at Tokyo Embassy
British Food and Music Shine at Tokyo Embassy

Japan Forward

time2 days ago

  • Japan Forward

British Food and Music Shine at Tokyo Embassy

The British Embassy in Tokyo came alive on June 12 with the sounds, scents, and flavors of the United Kingdom at British Beats and Bites – A Celebration of UK Food, Drink and Culture. The event brought together diplomats, entrepreneurs, creatives, and media for an immersive cultural experience centered on the UK's evolving identity as a food and music powerhouse. Hosted in the elegant setting of the British Ambassador's residence, the evening showcased everything from classic British cuisine to artisanal drinks. It culminated in a Britpop-infused DJ set by none other than Alex James, the former bassist of Blur and now an ambassador for British food and drink. Opening the evening was Emil Levendoglu, Minister and Deputy Head of Mission, who welcomed guests with warmth and humor. "It's a great pleasure to be welcoming you to a celebration of British food, drink, creativity — and, it turns out, cocktails," he said. Levendoglu described the modern British food scene as "bold, diverse, and globally inspired," noting how it has been shaped by the many cultures that make up contemporary Britain. "From Michelin-starred restaurants to buzzing food markets, our chefs and producers are constantly blending tradition with new ideas," he said, drawing a parallel with Japan's own culinary culture. Beyond food, Levendoglu emphasized the strong cultural ties between the UK and Japan. "This evening is also about the deep and enduring friendship between the UK and Japan, and the cultural ties that bind us together. Not just in food, but also in music, art, and creativity." Those cultural ties came to to life with the presence of Alex James, a man who embodies the crossover between British music and British food. Introduced by Levendoglu as "a very special guest" and "a passionate advocate for British food and drink," James brought not only nostalgia for his days in Blur but a sense of fun and reinvention. Blur bassist Alex James (©JAPAN Forward) Before his DJ set, James offered a heartfelt toast. "I really am delighted to be in Japan again with my family," he said. "And this time I'm not here as a musician — I'm here as a champion of UK food and drink." He went on to share how meaningful it was to see Japanese guests trying his own product, Brittle Pop, for the first time. "Hopefully, we've managed to get people thinking differently and created some new fans of UK food and drink." The crowd greeted the toast, "To the UK, and to Japan, and to food, and to drink, and to music," with a resounding "Kanpai!" Guests were treated to passed canapés like cold-smoked Scottish salmon on buttered toast, vol-au-vents filled with mushrooms, and bite-sized omelettes made with organic vegetables. Heartier fare included a shepherd's pie station, chicken curry, and roast beef served with ratatouille and gravy. Each dish offered a distinct window into the culinary identity of the UK. The sushi station, featuring kappamaki (thin sushi roll filled with cucumber) and tuna rolls, was a nod to the host country while underscoring the cross-cultural spirit of the evening. For cheese lovers, a curated selection featuring Wales' creamy Perl Las and England's Shropshire Blue, vintage cheddar, and Rutland Red added a tangy punch to the tasting experience. British cuisine at British Beats and Bites (©JAPAN Forward) Drinks reflected the diversity of the UK's four nations, with a showcase of gins and whiskies from England, Wales, Scotland, and Northern Ireland. Signature cocktails made with spirits from all four nations added flair to the evening, while Belvoir soft drinks provided a refreshing non-alcoholic option. Desserts, including whisky-infused chocolate squares, blueberry custard tarts, and raspberry macarons, were passed around as the party reached its peak. To end on a sweet note, guests were gifted Ben's Cookies, while the afternoon tea photo booth, set with Wedgwood ceramics, offered a playful tribute to a timeless British tradition. Adding another layer of momentum to the evening, Rupert Daniels, Director of Services for the UK's Department of Business and Trade, likened the event to a band's tour. Tokyo, he said, was just the first stop before the team traveled to Osaka for a showcase at the UK Pavilion at Expo 2025. "You're really lucky — you're seeing the first night of the band on tour," he said. Daniels, who first came to Japan during the 2002 World Cup, spoke fondly of the shared passions that unite both countries. "The two things that brought everyone together, particularly from the UK and our wonderful Japanese hosts, were music, food, and drink, which is exactly what we're celebrating tonight." He also urged guests to explore and interact with the variety of UK producers represented at the event. "There are 15 or 16 different producers here tonight — from sparkling wine to whisky to wonderful confectionery. Go talk to someone you've never met before. Try something new. Let's keep this cultural interchange going strong." Bar at British Beats and Bites (©JAPAN Forward) While the event had all the hallmarks of successful public diplomacy, soft power through food, cultural nostalgia, and personal storytelling, it was ultimately about connection. It celebrated the human dimension of trade, creativity, and shared tastes. From signature dishes to sampling stations, from Britpop classics echoing across embassy halls to toasts of sparkling Brittle Pop, British Beats and Bites was more than a showcase — it was a shared table. As the evening continued under Tokyo's early summer skies, with glasses clinking and voices mingling, one thing was clear. The bonds between the UK and Japan are as much about what's on the plates, or in the speakers, as they are about politics or policy. Author: Daniel Manning

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