Italy opens menswear show season with Pitti Uomo, Milan Fashion Week
This season's edition of Milan Fashion Week Men will be rather low-key, clearly feeling the impact of the global geo-political and economic crisis. It will feature 81 events, including 44 presentations, 17 special events and 15 runway shows, plus five digital shows that will be streamed on the week's final morning, on Tuesday, June 24. Only three among Italian fashion's leading names will feature on the Milanese calendar this season: Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani and Prada, while Zegna will be showing in Dubai, and many other labels have opted to present their menswear collections with womenswear at the September fashion week.
Some emerging labels that have made their mark on the Milanese fashion landscape in recent years will also give this edition a miss, like Magliano, which is replacing its habitual show with a movie screening, JordanLuca, and Indian designer Dhruv Kapoor. Milan will however rely on four 'new' names to freshen up the calendar, starting with British label Paul Smith, which is quitting Paris this season to show at its Milanese showroom on June 21.
The other new entries on Milan's menswear programme are Setchu by Japanese designer Satoshi Kuwata, winner of the 2023 LVMH Prize, which will kick off proceedings on Friday, June 20; long-standing Italian label Fiorucci, in the midst of a major relaunch; and Qasimi, the menswear label by Hoor Al Qasimi, originally from the UAE.
Two comebacks worth mentioning are those of Vivienne Westwood, which will stage a presentation, and Spanish designers Miguel Vieira and David Catalán, showing on Monday, June 23. The same day will end with the first runway show by French designer Emma Rowen Rose with her baroque-chic, made-in-Italy label Rowen Rose, which is set to launch a menswear line on this occasion.
Before passing the baton to Paris, Milan Fashion Week will be enlivened by a few big parties, including those celebrating Dsquared2's 30th anniversary and Jacob Cohen's 40th.
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