How Rolex's new Land-Dweller watch aims to 'invigorate' the collector base
"Watches and Wonders" in Geneva, the biggest trade show in the luxury timepiece world, kicked off with a bang as industry leader Rolex released its latest 2025 models just as the industry finds itself in an uncertain market.
Though most of the releases are tweaks, new colors, and new materials for some of its existing watches, the biggest news is an all-new model with a brand new movement, the Rolex Land-Dweller.
The integrated bracelet Land-Dweller resembles Audemars Piguet's iconic Royal Oak sports watch, with a sleek flat 'Jubilee' bracelet, fluted bezel, and new honeycomb dial.
Most impressive is the all-new Calibre 7135 mechanical movement powering the watch. It is thinner than any existing Rolex perpetual (self-winding) movement, has 16 patents, and features a new 'Dyapulse Escapement' and oscillator for improved timekeeping, Rolex said.
The watch, which comes in 36mm and 40mm sizes and a variety of metals including steel and platinum, starts at around $14,400 — and can hit $120,600.
California-based jewelry retailer Bob's Watches founder and CEO Paul Altieri said the Land-Dweller could spur more interest in collectors.
'It's the kind of release that would stir the collector base and open a new chapter in the brand's legacy,' he said. 'It's the kind of modern classic that could become an instant cult favorite. Think of it as a spiritual fusion of the Explorer and the Sea-Dweller," two of Rolex's most famous sports watches.
The overall Swiss watch industry has hit a lull recently, with exports down 8.2% in February, according to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry, due to weakness in China and Europe, though sales fell in the US too. New watches from the likes of Rolex, AP, IWC, and Patek Phillipe help, but the potential imposition of tariffs from the Trump administration could take a bite out as well.
Rolex's other reveals include updates and new materials for existing popular models, like new dials for the Cosmograph Daytona, 'Everose' gold GMT-Master II with a stone dial, and another GMT-Master II in white gold with green ceramic dial.
Rolex also announced updated dial colors for the volume Oyster Perpetual watches and more gold options with the dressy 1908 and pricey Sky-Dweller models that tend to attract the CEO set.
Rolex's focus on the precious metals watches over steel may be deliberate.
'Rolex has had difficulty selling the company's gold models while facing rising costs for the gold itself. It's no surprise that Rolex focused on revamping some of the weaker-selling gold models with a green dial for the new GMT-Master in white gold, a green dial for the yellow gold Sky-Dweller on Oysterflex strap, a new version of the 'John Mayer' green dial for the Daytona in yellow gold on bracelet,' said Eric Wind, watch expert and owner of Wind Vintage, a rare watch purveyor.
Wind added: 'Rolex still has little problem selling steel watches at retail, but the equivalent models in gold are about 3X the retail and contribute significantly to the company's margin and average selling point, so I expect Rolex to continue focusing on this segment."
Indeed, the selection of watches and release of new watches are strategic moves by Rolex, timed to a market currently in flux. Rolex still sees demand for most of its watches and may be looking to boost demand in the secondary market, which Rolex entered recently with its certified pre-owned program. Morgan Stanley estimates Rolex sold $10 billion worth of watches in 2024, with a likely rising, though small, amount in the pre-owned segment.
'It's true the luxury watch market has seen some softness recently, especially in the primary [new] segment, but new Rolex releases have a unique power to reinvigorate demand. A hot new model — or even a discontinued one — can send shockwaves through both the retail and secondary markets,' Altieri said.
Altieri noted that there is often a quick spike in secondhand values of discontinued models so it's something he pays close attention to.
But even with Swiss exports dipping, a strong lineup of Rolex models can help the market.
'In a climate where buyers are more cautious, Rolex still commands unmatched trust. A new release doesn't just sell — it lifts the entire ecosystem around it, including pre-owned and vintage,' Altieri said.
Pras Subramanian is a reporter for Yahoo Finance. You can follow him on X and on Instagram.
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