The Southeast Asian skincare renaissance? How Koh Li Tim's Paloma is redefining luxury beauty through heritage
In the saturated world of skincare, this Malaysian entrepreneur is crafting a narrative that transcends beauty and merges cultural heritage, scientific innovation, and a deep connection to Southeast Asia's botanical treasures
Koh Li Tim looks deep in thought.
Ask him about his skincare routine and you won't get a superficial answer. He breaks it down, narrowing in on the ingredients that suit his needs and his overall wellbeing goals. A brief chat with the 35-year-old Malaysian entrepreneur tells me he takes wellness seriously, and he's not averse to putting in the time, research and hard work to create an amazing product.
'I'm actually really into wellness,' he says. 'This brand story has played into what I genuinely believe in. I love TCM (traditional Chinese medicine). I love a little bit of Ayurveda.' His daily regimen includes collagen peptides—'not just about healthy skin, hair and nails. It's joints and overall well-being,'—and a two-step hydration process combining hyaluronic acid products followed by oil-based products to combat dry skin.
Paloma, the Southeast Asian skincare brand co-founded by Koh along with Sheryl Oon and Howie Lee is a thrilling new venture for the entrepreneur, and quite a departure from his other passions—automotive design, hotel aesthetics, and cultural exploration. Not merely another beauty venture; Paloma is where Southeast Asian biodiversity meets scientific precision, where centuries-old healing traditions merge with contemporary skincare science.
Read more: Koh Li Tim Talks Lockdown, TikTok And His Favourite London Haunts
Above Paloma is where Southeast Asian biodiversity meets scientific precision, where centuries-old healing traditions merge with contemporary skincare science (Photo: Paloma)
Paloma boasts a considerable scientific advantage: an in-house medical scientist with a PhD and over three decades of cosmetic research expertise. This formulator, a family friend of co-founder Howie Lee, now divides his time between cancer research and developing Paloma's sophisticated formulations.
"This doctor is actually a family friend of Howie,'s' Koh reveals. "He's seasoned and he focuses on cancer research. He actually researches Southeast Asian herbs... and that's what he's doing now as well as formulating for us."
This scientific backbone gives Paloma the authority to bridge traditional wisdom with contemporary efficacy—a balance many brands aspire to but few achieve authentically.
See more: Investment banker-turned-skincare CEO Kimberley Ho doesn't take no for an answer
'We started during the Covid-19 pandemic,' he says. The pandemic-era inception meant the brand development stretched over three years, with numerous reformulations and strategic pivots.
Initially, the team experimented with Korean manufacturing, believing it would position them advantageously in the market. "We started making products in Korea because we thought that's where it's at. It was a lot of back and forth in those early stages, but the products were not as good as what our doctor was working on.'
This willingness to abandon established paths when they don't serve the greater vision underscores Koh's commitment to authenticity over expediency where Paloma is concerned. Even the brand's original name, 'Slate,' was discarded when they realised their vision had evolved.
Koh's background in automotive design might seem worlds apart from beauty entrepreneurship, but he sees clear parallels in the creative process.
'Coming from a creative background and a creative family, I think we seek to innovate, and that's what we do in hotel design, for instance,' he reflects. 'In school, I studied automotive design, and that was really the way you were taught. It's a constant thought process to innovate, so doing things run of the mill doesn't really work for me.'
This design-thinking approach has shaped Paloma's development, from formulation to branding. The very name 'Paloma'—chosen for its quiet ambiguity: 'It could be a person, it could be a place,'—allowing the brand to transcend geographic limitations while remaining rooted in Southeast Asian heritage.
'Having lived abroad for a time, I absorb the places and cities I see,' Koh shares. 'I love seeing what people like and do and eat. Asian skincare has obviously taken the world by storm. Whether it's Japanese and Korean skincare—these things are so celebrated today.'
It's in this rapidly exploding space that he sees Paloma growing considerably beyond even Asia: 'Of course, there's no brand that is quintessentially Southeast Asian—there's no such thing.'
This observation became Paloma's North Star—to be the definitive Southeast Asian luxury skincare brand on global shelves, standing alongside established brands like Glow Recipe, Topicals, and Ranavat.
Don't miss: Eleena Jamil on sustainable design rooted in Asian context
I'm a tough and discerning consumer myself, and frankly, I only want the best. Not the most expensive or the most elite, but the best in function, craftsmanship, innovation, design, uniqueness, and money's worth.
- Koh Li Tim -
At just eight months old, Paloma has already established distribution in Malaysia, Singapore, and the United States.
'The dream for Paloma is to capture the US market,' Koh confides. This global aspiration doesn't mean abandoning Southeast Asian roots—quite the opposite. Paloma aims to expand its botanical portfolio, with upcoming products featuring Moringa Oleifera, Ginger Root, Centella Asiatica (Pegaga), and Piper Betle.
In an industry where speed-to-market often trumps thoughtful development, Paloma's patient, heritage-centered approach might just be its most valuable aspect. And for Southeast Asian beauty traditions that have waited millennia for their global moment, a few extra years of thoughtful formulation seems a worthy investment indeed.
Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles
Vogue Arabia
2 days ago
- Vogue Arabia
What's The Deal With Neurocosmetics?
A calming face mask, the gentle strokes from a Gua Sha, mood-elevating essential oils — skincare is a sensorial experience that's ritualistic and almost therapeutic. Finding that sweet spot between skincare and mental wellbeing is neurocosmetics, an upcoming segment within skincare that connects beauty with the brain through formulations that communicate with neural pathways. Simply put, a happy mind equals happy skin. But can your brain truly liaise with your skin, or is it simply a placebo? The experts weigh in! The mind-skin connection Considering your mind and skin share the same neuromediators, the impact your brain and skin have on each other isn't surprising. 'The mind-skin connection is now well-established both in ancient systems like Ayurveda and in modern psychodermatology,' says New York-based Reiki master, intuitive healer, and founder and CEO, Kaia Skincare, Kalpana Semple. Stress, anxiety, and trauma can directly manifest as inflammation, breakouts, eczema, and premature ageing and conversely, chronic skin conditions can cause emotional distress. 'Stress and skin are closely linked,' explains consultant dermatologist and international psychodermatology expert, Dr Alia Ahmed. 'I often tell my patients, 'stress causes skin disease and skin disease causes stress'.' Feelings of emotional distress lead to the release of cortisol, which is known to impact the immune system, drive allergic responses, delay healing, and disrupt the skin's natural barrier. As someone who's been living with autoimmune conditions herself, Roshni Jaiswal, founder and CEO of Justhuman, a neurocosmetics-based skincare brand, has firsthand seen how her emotional state impacted her health and her skin's health. 'It's a two-way street — how I feel affects how my skin behaves, and how my skin looks, impacts how I feel.' It's a vicious cycle. Enter the world of neurocosmetics Where neuroscience meets dermatology, neurocosmetics lies at the heart of the brain-skin connection.'It is suggested to interact with the skin's nervous system and then influence the brain-immune skin axis,' explains Dr Ahmed. 'Essentially, skin interacts with the brain and the immune system through chemical messengers that are released in response to stimuli such as pain, touch, and temperature changes.' These formulations can target various skin concerns, including acne, dark circles, dehydration and dryness, redness and inflammation, pain management, skin sensitivity, and so much more. 'Our skin is a sensory organ, rich with nerve endings, neuroreceptors, and neurotransmitters,' Jaiswal explains. 'It doesn't just react to the environment, it actively communicates with the brain.'
Tatler Asia
3 days ago
- Tatler Asia
Pioneering surgeon Dr Harjit Kaur says this is what prioritising women's breast health looks like
Today, she is a firm proponent of more women pursuing surgical specialties—'Women often bring a meticulous, methodical approach to their work, and in specialties like breast surgery, patients find female surgeons more relatable and often feel comfortable opening up to them,' Harjit says. But sometimes, even razor-sharp focus and experience as a surgeon cannot fully prepare you for the tougher moments, from having to break the bad news to patients' families or make those unpopular decisions in the face of tremendous pressure. 'One of the most pivotal lessons I've learned in my career is that we, as doctors, are not invincible,' she admits. 'In the beginning, you believe that if you just do everything right, you can save your patients. But with time and experience, you realise that even when everything seems to be going well, cancer can return. And when it does, you're the one who has to help the family navigate that pain. Over the years, I've also learned the emotional cost of becoming too attached. As doctors, we build relationships with our patients—we get to know them and, often, their families too.' She recalls a particularly difficult experience caring for longtime patient whose cancer returned aggressively, eventually having to explain to the woman's two teen children that they were going to lose their mother. 'That moment taught me the importance of maintaining just a bit of emotional distance. Trying not to cry while saying those words was one of the hardest things I've ever had to do.' See more: Using bioacoustics in conservation: How Malaysian researcher Dr Aini Hasanah is protecting our endangered gibbon populations Above Harjit says going for breast screenings should be routine, as common as other aspects of our wellness (Photo: Freepik) Balancing that fine line of caring deeply and supporting patients while knowing when to maintain emotional distance is not an easy task. Yet Harjit's priority remains the same—ensuring that she is there to walk that journey with her patients and offer honesty, support and presence through those tough times. 'We also learn that medicine is not just about doing everything—it's about knowing when not to. Some patients come to us with advanced disease where further aggressive treatment would offer no real benefit and only cause more harm. In those moments, the most compassionate choice might be palliative care and focusing on comfort and dignity rather than cure. That shift in thinking only comes with experience and maturity, and it's something I had to grow into over time,' she adds. 'Of course, as the science evolves, so must we. Breast cancer treatment has become far more holistic and personalised. It's no longer just about surgery—it's about understanding tumour biology, using targeted therapies, and choosing less invasive approaches where possible. We now know that 'less is more' in many situations.' Above Many women don't realise breast cancer can happen to anyone, not just older women or women who have gone through menopause, says Harjit(Photo: Getty) Touching on the evolving face of women's health and the gaps still apparent in how we approach breast cancer, Harjit shares these insights: 'Many women don't realise breast cancer can happen to anyone,' she says. 'There's a kind of blasé attitude, especially among younger women—they think they're too young, or that it's something that only happens after menopause. That may have been the case in the past, but not anymore.' 'We're now seeing breast cancer in women in their twenties and thirties—my youngest patient was just 19. That's why we really need to change how people think about breast health. It's not something you deal with only when you're older or once you feel a lump. In fact, in its early stages, breast cancer is completely painless. That's what makes it so dangerous, it can grow quietly for years without you even knowing it's there. By the time a lump becomes obvious or painful, it could already be advanced.' Being proactive, not reactive Knowing what we know today, what kind of mindset should younger women have about their breast health, even those with no family history of cancer? How do we as women normalise going for breast check-ups and screenings as casually as visiting our family doctor or getting a facial? 'I always recommend that women begin basic breast surveillance—like an ultrasound—every year from the age of 25, especially if there are any risk factors. And we need to normalise regular breast self-checks, so women are familiar with their own bodies and can notice even subtle changes.' 'Waiting for external prompts—like awareness campaigns or once-a-year screening events—before taking action is another issue. Breast health should be a personal priority all year round. It's your body, your life—investing that little bit of time each year could save it.' In a field that once offered women a grim 'mastectomy or nothing' ultimatum, Harjit's approach brings both precision and compassion. 'We're helping more women actually accept their diagnosis and go through with the treatment,' she says. 'When you tell a woman she has to lose her breast, and that's the only option, it's incredibly difficult—emotionally and psychologically. But when we're able to offer immediate reconstruction as part of the surgical plan, it changes how women respond. With proper counselling and the ability to present real options, they feel they have a way forward.' Her work has helped patients cope with the most difficult times of their lives, bringing dignity, choice, and emotional healing to the operating table. Still, she doesn't pretend any of it has been easy. 'You do face resistance or red tape,' she admits. 'It's about educating others, showing them the value of what you're proposing, and making sure it's a rational, well-thought-out idea. If you can do that, you'll usually find a way forward and things generally fall into place.' Dr Harjit attributes much of her unshakeable resolve to her mentor, Dato' Dr P. Kandasami. 'He is the person who truly made me a surgeon,' she says. 'He taught me that being a surgeon isn't just about skill—it's about listening, understanding, and being present for your patients.' Interestingly, Harjit's first career choice was law, and she spent three months at law school before realising that it wasn't for her. 'When I first chose surgery, even my father—who was a doctor himself—tried to dissuade me,' she shares. 'He said, 'You'll want to have children one day, how will you manage a career in surgery?'. Thankfully, I had a mentor who encouraged me to pursue what I was passionate about, and that support made all the difference. Women can thrive as surgeons and also have fulfilling personal lives—it just takes support.' She's living proof of that. Whether guiding patients through a diagnosis or inspiring the next generation of women surgeons, Harjit's presence in Malaysia's healthcare landscape is bold, compassionate, and enduring. 'I'm someone who needs human connection in my work,' she says. 'That's why I chose medicine—and why I've never looked back.' Front & Female Changemakers celebrates the extraordinary journeys of inspiring women who have emerged as powerful changemakers in a range of fields, offering a glimpse into their lives and showcasing their courage, vision and relentless pursuit of change and progress. From social entrepreneurs and business leaders to educators, artists, activists and scientists, Front & Female changemakers exemplify the ability to challenge the status quo and demonstrate the power of women to effect change.
Tatler Asia
14-06-2025
- Tatler Asia
This ancient Indian remedy is curing women's gut health
On Global Wellness Day, Tatler finds out how the future of women's gut health may lie in going old school Gut health affects everyone, and women are more prone to stomach issues than men. Here's why: every month, women's bodies go through changes due to their periods. The hormones that regulate their periods can also mess with digestion, causing bloating, bathroom troubles and that uncomfortable feeling that your stomach just isn't working right. During big life changes like having a baby or going through menopause, these stomach problems often get much worse and can persist for years. Modern medicine's approach to women's gut health often focuses on symptom management rather than addressing root causes. Patients bounce between gastroenterologists, gynaecologists and psychiatrists, receiving fragmented care that treats individual symptoms without recognising the interconnected nature of digestive wellness. This results in a growing number of women being dependent on medications that mask the problems rather than solve them. Also read: Wellness retreats, healing villages and sustainability: Exploring Ayurveda's lasting appeal Above The Ayurveda advantage, aka, how ancient wisdom is curing women's gut health (Photo: Pexels) This is precisely where Ayurveda's 5,000-year-old wisdom becomes revolutionary rather than antiquated. Ayurveda views digestive health as the foundation of overall wellness, recognising that nearly every health issue can be traced back to compromised digestion. The gut produces approximately 90 per cent of the body's serotonin and 50 per cent of its dopamine, which are crucial for mood regulation and cognitive function. Ayurveda understood this gut-brain connection millennia before neurogastroenterology became a recognised medical speciality. The system's emphasis on individualised treatment based on individual body constitution (vata, pitta, kapha) aligns remarkably with current research on personalised medicine and the unique microbiome signatures that influence gut health. Ayurvedic herbs restore the body's natural digestive capacity from within - Dr Arun Pillai - In India, several wellness centres are targeting to heal women's gut health by following dedicated Ayurveda practices. One such is Dharana at Shillim, a luxury wellness resort located just a few hours' drive from Mumbai. Their approach combines traditional diagnostic methods with modern testing to create personalised treatment plans that address individual constitutional needs while incorporating contemporary nutritional science. From the moment guests check in, the medical expert team at Dharana conducts a body constitution checkup, and based on the findings, they customise a specific Ayurvedic diet for each guest. According to Dr Arun Pillai, the wellness director at Dharana, this gut purification approach is based on the idea of 'panchakarma.' He says, 'Panchakarma is Ayurveda's comprehensive detoxification system, which offers a systematic way of eliminating accumulated toxins while also strengthening digestive function. Unlike trendy cleanses that can shock the system, panchakarma works gradually to reset digestive capacity without causing additional stress to an already compromised gut.' Above Amla or gooseberry is one of the key ingredients in triphala, which supports gut health and digestion (Photo: Pexels) Ayurvedic treatments focus on adjusting the element of 'agni' or heat in our body through dietary changes, herbal formulations and lifestyle modifications. For example, triphala, a combination of three fruits (amla, haritaki and bibhitaki), has been used for centuries to support digestive function and is now backed by clinical studies that show its effectiveness in improving gut motility. 'Pharmaceutical interventions can often create dependency, but Ayurvedic herbs work from within to restore the body's natural digestive capacity,' says Dr Pillai. This means that for women struggling with digestive issues, Ayurveda offers something conventional medicine often lacks: hope for genuine healing rather than lifelong management. The growing body of research supporting Ayurvedic interventions for gut health suggests that the future of women's digestive wellness may lie not in newer drugs, but in rediscovering the profound wisdom of the past.
