Like Spring, Asparagus Season Will Be Over Before You Know It
In Steven Satterfield's seasonal cookbook Root to Leaf, he writes 'As soon as daylight savings time begins, I start texting my produce guy. 'Have you seen any asparagus at the market yet?' I ask. 'No, maybe next week, still waiting.' Later that week, I prompt him again, 'Asparagus? Green garlic? Peas?''
Satterfield, the chef and owner of Miller Union in Atlanta, is not alone in his eager anticipation of asparagus, which might be the seasonal vegetable that most embodies the arrival of spring for many cooks. All winter, asparagus hides deep in the cold ground. The freezing temperatures help the plant slowly develop a sweet, grassy flavor and tender texture. As spring temperatures arrive and asparagus shoots finally emerge, they're not so different from many of us: pale, tired of winter, and eager to see the sun again.
But this moment of spring doesn't last long. May is the peak of asparagus season for many parts of the country. If you're lucky to live close enough to a farmer's market to buy local asparagus in season, you'll be shocked by the difference. It is a complex but tender delicacy, subtle in some ways and bold in others. The asparagus available year-round in grocery stores simply doesn't compare. It can be bitter, woody, or simply not as flavorful as peak asparagus harvested in season.
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Many chefs opt to prepare asparagus simply, roasting in the oven, shaving into slivers over a salad, or dropping it on the grill for a quick, smoky sear.
It is also the ideal, bold ingredient for combining the spring bounty of a farmer's market trip into a large frittata. Made from fresh, local eggs, a big handful of herbs, asparagus, and a little cheese, it comes together quickly and keeps well in the refrigerator. A quiche with a crackling crust might be more elegant, but the simplicity of a frittata means that these ingredients shine.
Farmer's Market Frittata
1 bunch asparagus
1 handful spring herbs, chives, pea shoots, tarragon or dill can work
6 eggs
½ cup goat cheese or other local soft cheese, crumbled
Instructions
Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Toss asparagus with olive oil and a pinch of salt and roast for ten to twelve minutes, until the stalks are no longer crisp but not yet soggy. Cool and chop into bite size pieces.
Finely chop spring herbs. In a large bowl, combine eggs, cheese, chopped herbs, and season generously with salt and fresh cracked pepper. Beat until fully combined.
In a twelve-inch skillet over medium heat, add chopped asparagus and drizzle generously with olive oil. Pour egg mixture into the pan, cooking until the top is almost set, four or five minutes. Finish in the oven for three minutes or until the eggs are fully cooked.
Weather.com writer Wyatt Williams is exploring the relationship between weather, food, agriculture, and the natural world.
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