Bread making, Druid knowledge and more in Ireland's Ancient East
Under the din of ringing church bells, in a graveyard dotted with purple herb robert flowers, Cynthia Simonet was telling us that yew trees never die.
She had just walked us through half of Trim in Co Meath, painting a picture of medieval life in the town, peppered with her own memories of growing up exploring its streets.
In one breath, she'd point out the ancient well where locals would draw their water and gossip; in another, she'd point out Church Street, which led to St. Patrick's Cathedral and was, ironically, the place to go for a smooch as teenagers in her day.
Coming to stop at the cathedral, Simonet - a tour guide with Trim Tourism - explained why yew trees are often planted in graveyards.
"The Druids always made their laws within a grove of yew trees", she said. "The Druids believed in reincarnation, and then the Christian church believed in resurrection. It's said that a yew tree can't die, its roots grow out. The roots will incorporate the corpse as it decomposes, it will feed on that, and it's a way of coming back."
Regeneration would turn out to be a theme of this trip to Ireland's Ancient East, which I'd been invited on as part of Fáilte Ireland's Keep Discovering campaign.
Over the course of the two days, my boyfriend and I explored Meath and Louth, where numerous producers, makers and destinations are celebrating a return to their roots. We had luck on our side with the weather, but even nicer was the relative peace and quiet before the summer season kicks off in earnest.
We began our trip by meeting Simonet at the cannon outside Trim Castle, which she wasted no time in telling us the history of. Dating back to the Crimean War, the 2,200kg cannon was gifted to the town in thanks for its support during the war.
From there, we visited the Sheep Gate, one of the five gates in the wall into medieval Trim that kept the Irish out and the French-speaking townspeople in. Simonet brought us on a brusque walking tour of the town, doling out facts about Boann, the goddess of the Boyne, alongside modern-day updates to the town like the new protective enclosures for the sand martins that fly across the river.
Filled up with mythology and local gossip, we set off for our next destination in Carlingford, Co. Louth, where we met Garrett Mallon, a goldsmith with over 30 years of experience who has created a country-spanning network of makers and producers in his studio.
Located up one of the town's winding streets, Mallon's shop is a treasure trove of artisanal designs. The Tyrone native opened the space in 2014 with 40 makers represented on the shelves. Ten years later and that number has soared to 105, with creators from all across the island.
Every nook and cranny is filled with handmade pieces, from knitwear by Edmund McNulty based in Termonfeckin and Donal Sweeney in Kilcar, Donegal, to pottery by Alison Hanvey in Co Down. Each display features a label noting the name and location of the creator, hammering home the sense of the studio being a pan-Ireland celebration of craft.
"It's all about the maker", Mallon said. "Me being a maker myself, it's all about your hands and what you make."
Tucked into the heart of the shop is Mallon's own workshop: long benches filled with glittering pendants, rings and more, lined up with their order papers. The team used to host hen parties and workshops in this space, but these have been paused while they gear up for a renovation.
Mallon's commissions, meanwhile, haven't slowed. He said his favourite part of the job is being trusted to create something timeless and sentimental, especially when there's a special meaning attached to a piece.
He told us about a recent wedding band commission for a man whose father had passed away. Inspired by the power of jewellery to connect people, Mallon offered to create the band from the man's father's own wedding band, and even made his mother a pendant from the leftover gold.
With a few additions to my Christmas wishlist made, we set off for our next stop: picking up bikes and hitting the Carlingford to Omeath greenway.
Carlingford Greenway Bikes supplied us with not only sleek and comfortable peddle assist bikes, but excellent sandwiches from their onsite food truck, Wildwood - a crispy chicken sambo with cheese, pickles and a cup of ranch for dunking.
A section of "The Great Eastern Greenway" currently being developed along the east of Ireland coastline, the Carlingford to Omeath greenway is built on the old Dundalk Newry and Greenore Railway, and is a handy 7km long. The trail is entered down by the marina and hugs the coastline beautifully for the rest of the way, offering breathtaking views of the Mourne Mountains and Carlingford Lough.
Sunkissed, windswept and happily tired, we dropped off our bikes and made the short trek to our accommodation for the night.
Located down a turn-off from the main road into Carlingford, down a hedge-hemmed drive and in view of the sea, Ghan House is a distinctly different kind of hotel.
Built in 1727, this Georgian manor was converted into a guesthouse 31 years ago and is now run by Paul Carroll, who took over the business from his mother Joyce (who still handmakes many of the delicious treats you'll find served at breakfast).
This isn't your usual reimagined manor house hotel, however. With just 11 bedrooms, a surprisingly understated breakfast room, lived-in but ornate furniture and a stately restaurant complete with a piano, spending the night there felt like stepping back in time to visit a wealthy friend.
Our room had an enormous bed, a crystal chandelier, long windows, opulent wallpaper and a view of the mountains and a graveyard, which some might find morbid, but I found extremely cinematic.
One of the many joys of being in Carlingford is how walkable it is, so our dinner at The Bay Tree restaurant was only a short walk away. We both opted for the natural Carlingford oysters, which were sweet and briny and came with a classic mignonette sauce, Tabasco and an excellent soy and ponzu sauce.
For mains, we had the pan-fried salmon and steak, and for dessert, we went with the white chocolate and raspberry tiramisu and the lemon pot with summer berries.
The next morning, we visited Skypark, an impressive series of aerial obstacle courses located outside of the town (€30 per person, for children aged 9+).
We were swiftly trained on how to safely navigate the courses and got stuck into tackling the yellow course, the easiest of the three. With zip lines, balancing challenges and plenty of opportunities to tease your boyfriend, a thrilling day out for kids and big kids alike.
An appetite firmly worked up, we headed back toward Navan for a bread-making workshop - with a difference.
Founded by Chris Brownlow, Bread with Benefits is a new venture striving to teach people about the connection between food and wellbeing, using sourdough as a way in.
Originally a potato farmer, Brownlow was bitten by the sourdough bug like many of us and became fascinated by the power of fermented foods.
He and his wife, Sarah, a local GP, decided to create a space in their home for immersive, hands-on workshops, celebrating the "soil to slice" journey of sourdough bread. A full-day bread-making course starts at €154.
Leavened bread, he explained, likely existed in ancient Ireland, and noted that there was even an ancient Irish word for sourdough: descaid, mentioned in A Social History of Ancient Ireland by P W Joyce, a book published in 1907 and proudly displayed in Brownlow's workshop.
Rather than a faddish pastime, a hangover from pandemic times, Brownlow's classes show how ancient ways of baking are coming back into fashion thanks to our renewed appreciation for food and wellness.
With Groove Armada playing in the background and some fruity kombucha to sip on, we got stuck into making our own loaves while Brownlow finished off some bread he'd made earlier. The result of our work, a crisp and golden loaf topped with seeds and an incredibly bouncy structure, was one of the best loaves of bread I've ever tasted, especially when slathered with the cultured butter Brownlow showed us how to make in less than five minutes.
As with any memorable trip, it's the unexpected conversations, tidbits and stories that stay with you, and this part of the country is overflowing with places to find them. Whether that's stopping into the Moorland Cafe in Drogheda for pastries after a walking tour of the historic town, or taking part in an art class, such as the one by Lucia Errity, who holds needle felt painting courses at her countryside gallery that are inspired by the ancient beauty of the Boyne Valley landscape.
Details
We were invited by Fáilte Ireland to visit Meath and Louth for the purpose of review.
Prices for one night accommodation at Ghan House start at €210 for B&B for two people sharing from June. Dinner and breakfast was provided by Fáilte Ireland.
Hashtags
Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles
Irish Independent
2 hours ago
- Irish Independent
Worth the hype? Ember Locke's hip London aparthotel sizzles with character – and gives you the chance of a lie-in
Locke aparthotels have gone from strength to strength since launching in London in 2016. They tap into a burgeoning home-from-home trend that allows visitors the freedom to faff in the privacy of their own fancy self-catering, serviced flat – so you don't have to rush down to a communal breakfast if you're aching for a lie-in. The brand made its Irish debut in 2020 with Zanzibar Locke, followed by Beckett Locke in 2021, both in Dublin. Instagram and millennial- friendly, Locke has received a glowing word of mouth for its communal caffeine and cocktail areas – ideal for digital nomads and brainstorming sessions, as well as for good old-fashioned people-watching. Imposter syndrome? If I'd worried I might be too old, at 48, for such a hip-spot, I was gladly mistaken. On arrival at Ember Locke in Kensington, we met a stylish white-haired Australian lady, probably in her 60s, struggling to lug her luggage up the external stairs. My friend and I gave her a hand into the yellow and pink lobby (bold colours, plush curtains, blonde wood coffee-bar area) of which Dorothy and Don Draper would surely approve. This leads to a brighter, orangery vibe at the back, a maximalist bar and various co-working and leisure seating in between. Weekly activities were listed above the elevator (Boxfit, yoga), and outside, my bird-nerd heart soared at the nesting boxes and bug hotels in a garden of mature trees, and appreciated the tented gazebo for curated outdoor 'happenings' and casual lollings. I'll fit right into this Victorian-era mansion block, I thought. And so I did. Suite dreams – or stuff of nightmares? When I was 21, I stayed in a hostel in New York City – where, in lieu of a knife, my pal and I used a Virgin Atlantic shoehorn (weirdly included in our complimentary inflight kit) to spread peanut butter on to a bagel. No such improvisation required in my top-floor one-bed open-plan suite. ADVERTISEMENT Learn more Ember Locke's ergonomic kitchenettes are stocked with crockery, cutlery, glassware, exceedingly tasty/bougie teabags, high-end white goods, and Ecover detergent. There was also an ironing board and iron cunningly tucked into the back of a lozenge-shaped full-size mirror. The stylishly curvaceous clothing rail proved a nuisance though, allowing only a handful of coat-hangered tops before each one fell off. (Can hotels please bring back wardrobes with doors? Utilitarian chic has its place, but sometimes going back into the actual closet is a good thing.) But, oh, what a wonderful colour scheme. The ruddy embrace of terracotta, blush, orange and mustard tones, with forest-green kitchen units and fringed lampshades were a welcome change to the 50 shades of greige of so many 'contemporary' hotels. The cute dual-aspect, steep-roof nook was inset with a very comfortable king-size bed, and a graphic-print bedspread complemented a patterned feature wall. My friend's eight-year-old was equally smitten with her added single bed on to which morning sunshine streamed through the skylight, while the aforementioned teabags were ceremoniously steeping. The room's warm hues were in stark contrast to the nippy air-conditioning and mostly tepid water in the bathroom. I notified front desk who sent a plumber, but there was no improvement. Perhaps I should've just jumped the bathroom queue ahead of my two roomies who had better luck. I hadn't seen my dear friend and her daughter since February 2020 – mere weeks before lockdown, and just before they were moving to Hong Kong, so there was much to catch up on as we sat at the bar for snacks and sips. Sadly, our chinwag was stunted by a young staffer variously piddling about with glassware and boxes of ice cubes while we were clearly itching to order. Twice. Food is served at Ember Locke but we hot-footed it to the Irani-Indian stunner Dishoom one evening, and ordered a Deliveroo (Baba Ghanouj restaurant) to the property on night two, as the little one was desperate to watch A Very Important Football Match while stuffing our faces in the privacy of our own 'home'. Conclusion Despite a few niggles, I'd definitely stay at Ember Locke again. Firstly, you've the whole of London on your doorstep, with Earl's Court Tube station 10 minutes' away on foot. We walked to the National History Museum in 20 minutes and took the Tube to Kew Gardens in Wimbledon, around 30 minutes' west. Secondly, the eclectic decor is a real sight for drab eyes. Also, my suite was quiet, and its eaves aspect both quirky and familiar, rather like a theatre or film set. So, it really wasn't too far off from making my hotlist. Ember Locke, Kensington, London. Rooms from £220.
Irish Independent
2 hours ago
- Irish Independent
How does Dublin's new AI city guide compare to a real walking tour? We tried them both out
But if that odd and slightly concerning thought did cross your mind, then Dublin City Council has an answer. Introducing Brendan, the Dublin-flavoured, snood-donning twenty-something made of pure pixels and infused with pride in his beloved fair city. 'It's grand to see ya. Brendan here, and I'm absolutely buzzing to take you on a journey through my hometown,' he says, carp-eyed, when you select Dublin in the CityMe smartphone app. 'From lively Temple Bar and the old city, to buzzing Stoneybatter and cool Portobello, we'll discover a wide range of historical, cultural and iconic spots.' Besides calling Oscar Wilde 'the Goat himself' (greatest of all time), there isn't much of the promised Dublin wit on show. Brendan is what your granny might refer to as a 'lovely young fella' (if she doesn't mind the bovine stare), but I'd rather someone a bit more engaging to guide me around the madhouse that is Dublin. In fact, you might even go so far as to call him a bit of a dry shite. The city that spawned business names such as 'Knobs and Knockers' and 'Angela's Rashers' deserves a far more engaging voice to bring it to life. So, I decided to pit Brendan against the ultimate foe: a Dublin walking tour with the renowned Pat Liddy's tour company. After brief introductions, myself and two American tourists, Deirdre Pleasure and Rebecca Nolan, set off with our guide Harry Pender, another twenty-something Dubliner, albeit a non-electronic one. We started out at Barnardo Square on Dame Street, and immediately I was drawn in by Mr Pender's personality as he answered questions, and even managed to summarise Irish history in a lively 15-minute back and forth – not an easy task. We then made our way down to Dublin Castle, where we learnt the origin of the word boycott, chatted about the lies embedded in Irish history (St Patrick was neither a saint or named Patrick) and joked about suncream. We were having such a raucous time, one of the other tours asked us to move along. On we went through Ship Street (which should apparently be called Sheep Street, but was mistranslated) to Christ Church Cathedral, where we heard of the robbery and return of patron saint Laurence O'Toole's heart. Crossing Grattan Bridge, we gazed over at the Ha'penny, officially known as Liffey Bridge (who knew?), where Mr Pender pointed out the spot that the River Poddle, now a mere stream, enters the Liffey through a syphon at Wellington Quay. It went on much like this for the rest of the tour through to the GPO and Trinity College, questions, banter and stories aplenty. An experience of more than three hours mentally shrunk down to what felt like an hour. I want somebody I can ask questions of, and I want somebody to interact with It was engaging, informative and great to get to know our charming tour guide, who also teaches drama to children and partakes in pro wrestling. As the walk went on, it became increasingly difficult to see how any AI character, no matter how swooshy his hair, could live up to the interactivity and humanity of a real human tour guide, and my companions agreed. 'I want somebody I can ask questions of, and I want somebody to interact with,' Ms Pleasure said. 'If I'm like, I've got a few hours and I just, spur of the moment, roam around, then the AI would suffice, but it just gives me an overview. 'But to actually learn, and to be able to have my questions answered and all that kind of stuff, I would rather people,' she added. As for Mr Pender, he was doubtful AI was currently capable of providing the same kind of tour experience as a human. 'I'm not opposed to innovation and stuff, and you know, going forward with different new ideas, but at the same time I would be very surprised if [AI] could do the same thing that a person can do,' he said. 'I'm interested in the idea of it, and you know, no one ever thought Deep Blue, for example, was ever going to beat Garry Kasparov with AI chess bots or something, but now we know AI is very, very strong, so in that sense it's good. 'In another sense, I think people want something that is an experience. It's always about making an experience for someone, and if the AI can do that, great. 'But I think there's a lot more to tour guiding than just giving people the facts of what you're talking about, because it's how you put the facts together and how you tell the story'. So much for Dublin slang. He keeps calling things awesome. Why not deadly? Heading around Dublin with Bland Brendan as company, it's hard not to agree. The AI guide definitely leans more on the artificial side of things than the intelligence. For instance, he correctly says that the old name for O'Connell Street is Drogheda Street but then pronounces it 'Dro-geeda'. And so much for Dublin slang. He keeps calling things awesome. Why not deadly? The more you scratch, the more paper-thin Brendan's persona appears. He will simply repeat the same information verbatim each time you click on an individual city landmark. One of the defining traits of AI is that it comes up with slightly different phrasings and sentences each time you speak to it – that's what makes it appear intelligent. Otherwise, it's a glorified Fisher-Price telephone that says a phrase when you press a button. So, is this simply a toy, crafted by tech bros that want to inject AI into your toaster? In fairness, it's not. Brendan definitely does a convincing Dublin accent and sounds like a local for much of his dialogue, which I'm not sure has been done before using AI. Also, the app is free of charge, so maybe I'm being too harsh. It offers a unique experience, like getting your dinner from a vending machine would. But vending machines have their place – sometimes all you want is a Kinder Bueno or a Fulfil bar. I can imagine a scenario where Brendan is all you need to get a quick overview of the city, if you're tight on time or just curious about one specific spot (and you haven't heard of Google). If you can get past the stilted Dublin dialogue and misaligned teeth, there's a reasonably interesting proposition here. For no money at all, you can see Dublin in a way quite unlike any other, so try it out and see what you think. After all, sometimes even adults enjoy Fisher-Price toys.
The Irish Sun
13 hours ago
- The Irish Sun
‘I felt and feel lucky', says Ryan Tubridy as he reveals romantic way he popped the question to fiance Clare
RYAN Tubridy has revealed the romantic way he popped the question to his fiance Dr Clare Kambamettu. The 2 Ryan Tubridy proposed to his long-term partner Clare during a romantic getaway Credit: Terrie Burton Noir Photique 2 The radio host has opened up about the proposal Credit: Getty Images - Getty The pair have since kept the inner details of their love under wraps and while Ryan hadn't planned on revealing the news just yet, he was forced to come clean after a jewellers let it slip that he had visited their store. The radio host, who shared the news with his listeners on Tuesday, has now revealed how he carefully planned the romantic proposal to his long-term partner. Writing in his Mail on Sunday column, he said: "I don't want to give all the details but I do want to share a few moments because some people were enormously helpful along the way." READ MORE ON RYAN TUBRIDY Ryan explained that he had always planned to buy the ring in Clifden, an area which him and Clare both love and where the local jewellers has been a long-standing family run business. He explained: "I've also been preaching about shopping local for years so I wasn't going to Tiffany's… I called Jonty Daly in O'Dalaigh's and asked for some guidance and I can tell you, the man's a diamond!" The podcaster then went on to say: "The care, attention and thought he put into every detail was above and beyond, right down to him driving out to Renvyle House Hotel to deliver the 'package' to Anne Marie Kelly, the incomparable general manager there. It was all so much fun and it felt distinctly Irish." Ryan has often spoken about his love for the West Coast of Ireland, and this proposal showed just how much the area means to the pair. MOST READ IN THE IRISH SUN He said: "By the Atlantic shore, I asked the important question and thankfully, the answer was in the affirmative – and so began the most gorgeous weekend." The 52-year-old revealed that the "staff and joyful hotel patrons" helped make each part "feel special". Donncha O'Callaghan has Ryan Tubridy in stitches He added: "We called into Jonty the next day to thank him and his staff; there was a little confusion about online stories but that was entirely at my end. Jonty did not let the cat out of the bag, it was an innocent miscommunication and we're all firm friends. "In fact, he joined us at The Abbeyglen Castle Hotel that evening where my cousin Brian Hughes and his amazing wife, Michelle, raised a few glasses with another cousin, Rachael Coyle and her brilliant husband, Shane. "Another lovely night was had that ended with songs at the piano! After that, it was Scrabble, cycling and sleeping before boarding a plane in Shannon and heading to the skies a different man with a whole new vista ahead. I felt and feel lucky, happy and ready for another welcome twist in the tale." Earlier this week, the dad-of-two told his Virgin Radio UK listeners: "I have a little bit of news that I was kind of keeping a little bit to myself - to ourselves. "Even though I'm a public person doing the job I do, I also have quite a lot of privacy that I like to keep to myself. HAPPY COUPLE "However, the cat has been removed from the bag for a number of reasons and I'm very, very, very happy to confirm that I did indeed get engaged to my partner Clare on Thursday evening in the West of Ireland." Speaking about his longterm love, Tubs previously told The Irish Sun: "She has brought an awful lot of joy into my life and happiness and support. "I don't want to talk too much about her, because my private life has always stayed private. "But I think anyone who has met or knows Clare will know exactly why we are seeing each other. I feel very lucky." Asked at the time if the clinical psychologist, who he first interviewed on his RTE Radio One show in March 2023, had been a major support during the last six months. Tubs replied: "Remarkably so."
