
Antarctic reflections
Time has taken on a different dimension, partly because there's no night. The light fades between midnight and 2am, but it is still daylight, as the sun never dips below the horizon.
And the long days in between have been full of brightness and blue skies.
It isn't always like this in Antarctica. In fact, my experience has rarely been like this in Antarctica. For, on this particular trip, albeit at my favourite time of year, in the first week of December. The snow is white and the penguins clean, before eggs are laid and chicks hatch.
But I have a problem. For I am about to list some of the things that have happened in the last two and a half days, and you might think that is normal for Antarctica. But there is no real normal. There is certainly no predictability. So, what you read here is what has happened to me, and my companions, in the last day, but probably won't happen on the next voyage, and may never happen on any other voyage. (But, given the nature of unpredictability, it just might).
I have a very nice solo cabin with a single bed and lots of space. It is one of 12 on the Lindblad National Geographic Resolution and beautifully designed — both elegant and practical. Being on the Antarctic Peninsula, I have books on James Cook, Ernest Shackleton and Robert Scott's journeys here, but also the log of the Swedish expedition which preceded Shackleton (and had a similar experience of being trapped in the ice) and Roald Amundsen, the first to the South Pole, who carefully calculated when to kill and feed each dog to the others. 'On December 19 we killed the first dog on the homeward trip,' he wrote. 'This was Lasse, my favourite dog. He had worn himself out completely and was no longer worth anything. He was divided into fifteen portions, as nearly equal as possible, and given to his companions.'
This has not been the case on the Resolution. Each meal has been nothing short of superb — from freshly cooked breakfast fare to an a la carte menu each evening. But yesterday was pretty special. The ship had been literally driven into the lip of an ice sheet and parked overnight, and we had stepped down a gangway and onto the whiteness to stroll in the morning, which was followed by a barbecue lunch on deck, with an art gallery of desserts and doughnuts to follow. But the food fare became even more memorable in the evening with a Chef's Table experience on the Cook's Nook. At the centre of this is a long table on Deck 8, which has full glass windows and big views all round. It sat all 19 of us, who have travelled here from Perth as companions. Seven tasting courses will follow — each an exquisite artwork, and with a food-philosophy point to make. For this is a zero waste meal — a workshop and showcase on how to use food. We are told that it has been calculated there is 1.6 billion tonnes of food waste a year and the ship's hotel director, Laura Fuentes, explains: 'Zero waste is one of the pillars of our program. We have a passion to think about this global issue.' Cauliflower will never be the same, as one small course (called The World's Most Versatile Vegetable) comprises it being served nine ways — cauliflower scallop, tempura, smoked cauliflower with apple and cherry wood, burnt shallots and cauliflower puree, saffron espuma and pickled cauliflower.
But, even when we've finished dining, the night is bright and still young, and the ship is being steered through the Gullet — a narrow passage between Hansen Island and the Antarctic Peninsula which is rarely navigated. The ship, with its 360-degree Azipod electric propulsion at the rear and two bow thrusters (sort-of sideways propellers) can spin on a sixpence. And it does, when an emperor penguin is spotted and we are taken back for a closer look. We are way south of the Antarctic Circle among icebergs like buildings made of meringue melted with a blowtorch.
I overhear another passenger: 'I don't know what day it is, and I don't care.' I do know what day it is, as I am here writing, working over the ship's fast Starlink satellite wi-fi — but I don't really care either. Time has taken on a different dimension, melding into an odyssey.
There is a practical side to what I do (of course) — as I need to advise, recommend and discourage. That's partly why you come here, to these stories — for information. But there is also the chance to inspire, as I am inspired at this moment.
But it is about to change. I am in world of white and blue, which will change to monochrome tomorrow, as the sky clouds over.
I think I like it better when the land and seascapes are composed of every grey.
For, to have today's bleached-white snow and vivid blue is a simple, brochure-like presentation of this complicated, delicate and dangerous place.
To have the subtlety of monochrome is dramatic, subtle, cautioning and involving. It seems to demand more engagement and interpretation from me. For I am here, colourfully dressed in my orange Lindblad jacket, out of place, and knowing that — a respectful visitor, learning the lessons of remoteness and the dangers of cold and disturbing the delicate balance of this place.

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