'I went to the 'end of the world' where time grinds to a near halt'
Striking the right balance between relaxation and exploration can prove a challenge on any trip. The temptation when on the clock in a new place is to rush around ticking off sights, often resulting in blurred memories and fatigue.
My visit to the Bernese Oberland in Switzerland taught me a lesson in how to really take in my surroundings and resist the urge to press on with a hurried stride. Take time to smell the roses, or in my case, the cheeses.
This awakening experience began in the picturesque village of Adelboden, an idyllic chalet village 4,430ft above sea level, with blooming alpine meadows and crystal-clear lakes. Home to only 3,500 inhabitants, versatile Adelboden comes alive during winter with tourists swooping in for its mountain sports on its dream pistes and World Cup race in January.
It actually became the destination for the first winter sports package holiday, organised by tourism pioneer Sir Henry Lunn in 1902. In the warmer months, it's ideal for those wanting to gaze at the scenery at their own pace while traversing its walking trails, mountain bike routes, cable cars, or swimming in the lakes.
The village's standout hotel was acquired by Welsh brothers Craig and Grant Maunder in 2009 and renamed The Cambrian – a subtle nod to their home country (Cambria translates as Wales in Latin). This stunning, four-star superior hotel, rebuilt in the Belle Epoque style in the 20th century, is the perfect place to unwind, offering a swanky spa with pool, Finnish sauna, steam bath and outdoor infinity pool, which comes with breathtaking views of the Swiss Alps.
At the hotel's Bryn Williams restaurant, named after the chef who hails from North Wales, diners can enjoy dishes created with Swiss and Welsh influences. From here, take a short bus journey to nearby mountain village Elsigen where you can ride the gondola to reach an alpine cheese farm hidden away in the peaks.
Welcomed into the home of the Germann's, father-and-on duo Adolf and Peter offered expert insight into their longstanding family tradition of cheesemaking.
After explaining the process of producing cheeses including Alpkase, Mutschli, Raclette and Ziger, which are heated at temperatures ranging from 36-90C, I was able to sit down and sample the freshly made blocks. They were full of flavour, thanks to added extras such as garlic and chilli.
It is not only food production keeping this area ticking nicely over, however, with the natural wonders of the lakes and mountains serving as a major pull. With the sun beating down, I grabbed the chance to take a dip in the crystal-clear water of the Brandsee Lake and could not resist the inflatable slide invitingly positioned only several strokes away.
It's a short drive to Engstilgenalp where you can jump on a cable car and head above the second tallest waterfall in Switzerland, 1,969ft Engstilgenalp Falls.
A trip to the neighbouring town of Gstaad was next on the agenda. Famed for its old-world elegance, which has attracted the likes of Princess Diana and Madonna to the region, I enjoyed a taste of the finer things, checking in at the new Mansard Boutique Hotel.
Located centrally, The Mansard boasts the only rooftop bar in Gstaad and was a hit among locals, who were drinking in the views with a few glasses of wine.
Equally as impressive was the food in the ground floor restaurant. I opted for the starter special of mushroom pasta, followed by a main of sole with parsley butter, spinach and mashed potatoes. Finishing on a sweet note, a glass of vanilla ice cream with strawberries and Maraschino liqueur rounded off a memorable meal.
The following morning in Gstaad, I got to experience a great annual celebration, which is loved by tourists and locals.Visitors began to pour into the town during the early hours of the morning, creating an instant buzz. This was the start of the Zuglete, the procession of cattle from the mountains to the heart of the town.
A tradition kept for centuries to signify the return of the herds and herdsmen to the valley, thousands of people line the streets of Gstaad for a glimpse of cows, dressed in colourful floral headdresses, and goats that continually serve the area.
Such a day presents a lucrative opportunity for local businesses. One woman I met had spent 30 years on the Landfrauen Saanenland selling items ranging from cheese to marmalade. 'I will not get rich with what I'm doing,' she insisted.
'I do this out of passion, for the community, because being together is not about having an income, it's out of love.'
Aside from the heightened sense of drama created by the Zuglete, Gstaad's relaxation-related motto of 'Comeup, slow down' can't be argued with.
But those seeking a total escape should head to the tiny village of Ablandschen – situated on the edge of the Bernese Oberland and the Freiburg Alps, 4,265ft above sea level. Known locally as Detox Valley and home to only 32 inhabitants, here you can pay a visit to the smallest church in Switzerland and dine at the inviting Berghotel zur Sau.
'Welcome to the end of the world' is the message from owners of the cosy establishment to prospective guests, who can try a range of Swiss dishes. Mushrooms and potatoes that accompanied my main dish of pork were grown just around the corner while the starter salad was made up of handpicked ingredients.
A bottle of the sparkling Blanc de Noirs – a Swiss spin on Champagne due to its mirrored production process – was the perfect accompaniment.
My trip ended by catching the state-of-the-art GoldenPass Express train from Gstaad to Montreux – an 80-minute journey offering panoramic views of the Swiss Alps and valleys plus Lac Leman (Lake Geneva).
This route is included in the Swiss Travel Pass (see information box above right) and seated in prestige class – elevated in terms of height in the carriage and service – I tried out my heated leather seat, capable of rotating 180 degrees, before enjoying a cheese board and coffee.
Gazing out the window as I glided through this breathtaking scenery, I was offered one final reminder of how avoiding well-trodden paths, going out of the main season and taking in the sights at your own pace makes travel so much more satisfying.
Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles
Wales Online
4 hours ago
- Wales Online
Two young Welsh women among 15 who perished in backpacker hostel arson that will never be forgotten
Two young Welsh women among 15 who perished in backpacker hostel arson that will never be forgotten Natalie Morris and Sarah Williams died in the blaze started by killer Robert Long at the Palace Backpackers Hostel in Australia 25 years ago Natalie Morris, 28, from Merthyr Tydfil and Sarah Williams, 23, from Cefn Coed, died in the backpackers hostel fire A quarter of a century has passed since a loner set light to the Palace backpackers' hostel in Australia in a shocking act that led to the deaths of 15 people. Memorial events are being held to mark the 25th anniversary of the deadly blaze in the small Queensland town of Childers on June 23 2000. The horrific tragedy left survivors in trauma, local people deeply shocked and the bereaved devastated. For the families of Natalie Morris, 28, from Merthyr Tydfil and Sarah Williams, 23, from Cefn Coed, who lost their lives that night, it was a personal tragedy with the added pain that the young women perished halfway across the globe, far from loved ones, on what should have been the trip of a lifetime. Natalie and Sarah were among seven travellers from Britain, along with three from the Netherlands, three Australians, one from Japan and a South Korean who died in their beds that night after a deranged killer torched the building. Sign up for our free daily briefing on the biggest issues facing the nation sign up to the Wales Matters newsletter here. Escape from the deadly blaze was hampered by an exit blocked with furniture and barred windows. In 2006 an inquest into the deaths revealed that emergency exits at the hostel had been obstructed by bunk beds, doors and windows were nailed closed or barred, fire alarms weren't operational and, with 80 guests inside on the night of the fire, the premises was overcrowded. Article continues below Kelly Symonds from Aberfan, a former school friend who'd travelled to Australia with Natalie and Sarah, managed to escape the inferno at the near-century-old converted pub. In the midst of the horror a fellow guest managed to squeeze her through the barred window of the room in which they were sleeping. Natalie Morris Robert Long, a loner who had previously been evicted from the building lit the fire deliberately that night. After being kicked out of the hostel he set fire to it in the early hours of June 23 2000. In 2002 the drifter and fruit picker was sentenced to life in prison for murder and 15 years for arson. Quarter of a century on the community of Childers, 180-miles north of Brisbane, has never been forgotten. The community is gathering with survivors and the bereaved this weekend to remember those whose lives were cut short. After the fire many survivors were temporarily housed locally at the Isis Cultural Centre, where some of the memorial events will take place. The Palace Backpackers Hostel in Childers, Australia, is demolished, Wednesday, Feb 13, 2002, 18 months after 15 backpackers were killed in a fire at the hostel. (Image: AP ) Memorials, led by Bundaberg Regional Council will run between June 21 and 23 and include a memorial vigil at the Sacred Heart Church in the town followed by a performance project called "The Palace" at the Isis Cultural Centre. There will be two public performances of "The Palace" on Saturday, June 21 followed by a private, invitation-only performance on Monday, June 23rd, the anniversary of the fire. The Childers Arts Space in the Palace Memorial Building, will also be open for quiet reflection throughout the weekend but will be closed to the public on June 23rd for the private memorial. Inside the space is The Palace Backpackers Memorial, a memorial wall by Sam Di Mauro containing 15 memory boxes, each dedicated to one of the victims, and a portrait Taking a Break in the Field by Josonia Palaitis. Visitors will be able to leave messages of remembrance for the victims, their families, and survivors. Many in the town still remember that night. Residents knitted blankets and donated food and backpacks for survivors, many of whom had lost everything in the fire. Local people cooked for survivors and local businesses helped with food, clothing, and other items they needed. Princess Anne visited a few weeks after the blaze to meet the surviving backpackers and others involved in the aftermath. When he was jailed Long, then 37, was told he could not apply for parole for 20 years. In 2020 his application for freedom caused outrage and opposition, including from Natalie's grieving father Ken Morris. Long was denied parole that year but applied again for a second time earlier this summer. Australian media has reported that the president of the Queensland Parole Board will now consider whether to limit Long's ability to apply for parole through a restricted prisoner declaration. The Australian Broadcasting Corporation reported a statement from Queensland Corrective Services saying: "The parole application is not being considered while the restricted prisoner matter is determined by the president." A decision on the declaration will be made after victims have been given time to make submissions. When Long previously applied for bail survivors mounted a petition and said he should never be freed. In 2020 Dutch survvor of the blaze Rob Jansen launched an internet petition calling for Long's parole application to be denied forever. "We, the survivors of the blaze, are trying to reach the attention of the Parole Board Queensland, to convince them that Robert Paul Long should remain behind bars and serve time for the rest of his life," he said. Killer Robert Long (Image: AP ) A year after the fire that stole their daughters Natalie's parents, Ken and Yvonne Morris and Sarah's parents Ryland and Margaret Williams attended the opening of the memorial in Childers in 2001. Yvonne has since passed away and Kens spoke about his disgust at Long's bid for parole in 2020. Speaking in 2013 Sarah's mother said: "'We just have to try to get on with our lives and we are struggling. We loved them so much." Ken Morris expressed what no parent ever wants to go through: "We are broken hearted." It is this pain that the comunity of Childers knows it can never erase, but hopes to ease with memorial events this weekend. Article continues below
Daily Mirror
6 hours ago
- Daily Mirror
'I went to the 'end of the world' where time grinds to a near halt'
Striking the right balance between relaxation and exploration can prove a challenge on any trip. The temptation when on the clock in a new place is to rush around ticking off sights, often resulting in blurred memories and fatigue. My visit to the Bernese Oberland in Switzerland taught me a lesson in how to really take in my surroundings and resist the urge to press on with a hurried stride. Take time to smell the roses, or in my case, the cheeses. This awakening experience began in the picturesque village of Adelboden, an idyllic chalet village 4,430ft above sea level, with blooming alpine meadows and crystal-clear lakes. Home to only 3,500 inhabitants, versatile Adelboden comes alive during winter with tourists swooping in for its mountain sports on its dream pistes and World Cup race in January. It actually became the destination for the first winter sports package holiday, organised by tourism pioneer Sir Henry Lunn in 1902. In the warmer months, it's ideal for those wanting to gaze at the scenery at their own pace while traversing its walking trails, mountain bike routes, cable cars, or swimming in the lakes. The village's standout hotel was acquired by Welsh brothers Craig and Grant Maunder in 2009 and renamed The Cambrian – a subtle nod to their home country (Cambria translates as Wales in Latin). This stunning, four-star superior hotel, rebuilt in the Belle Epoque style in the 20th century, is the perfect place to unwind, offering a swanky spa with pool, Finnish sauna, steam bath and outdoor infinity pool, which comes with breathtaking views of the Swiss Alps. At the hotel's Bryn Williams restaurant, named after the chef who hails from North Wales, diners can enjoy dishes created with Swiss and Welsh influences. From here, take a short bus journey to nearby mountain village Elsigen where you can ride the gondola to reach an alpine cheese farm hidden away in the peaks. Welcomed into the home of the Germann's, father-and-on duo Adolf and Peter offered expert insight into their longstanding family tradition of cheesemaking. After explaining the process of producing cheeses including Alpkase, Mutschli, Raclette and Ziger, which are heated at temperatures ranging from 36-90C, I was able to sit down and sample the freshly made blocks. They were full of flavour, thanks to added extras such as garlic and chilli. It is not only food production keeping this area ticking nicely over, however, with the natural wonders of the lakes and mountains serving as a major pull. With the sun beating down, I grabbed the chance to take a dip in the crystal-clear water of the Brandsee Lake and could not resist the inflatable slide invitingly positioned only several strokes away. It's a short drive to Engstilgenalp where you can jump on a cable car and head above the second tallest waterfall in Switzerland, 1,969ft Engstilgenalp Falls. A trip to the neighbouring town of Gstaad was next on the agenda. Famed for its old-world elegance, which has attracted the likes of Princess Diana and Madonna to the region, I enjoyed a taste of the finer things, checking in at the new Mansard Boutique Hotel. Located centrally, The Mansard boasts the only rooftop bar in Gstaad and was a hit among locals, who were drinking in the views with a few glasses of wine. Equally as impressive was the food in the ground floor restaurant. I opted for the starter special of mushroom pasta, followed by a main of sole with parsley butter, spinach and mashed potatoes. Finishing on a sweet note, a glass of vanilla ice cream with strawberries and Maraschino liqueur rounded off a memorable meal. The following morning in Gstaad, I got to experience a great annual celebration, which is loved by tourists and began to pour into the town during the early hours of the morning, creating an instant buzz. This was the start of the Zuglete, the procession of cattle from the mountains to the heart of the town. A tradition kept for centuries to signify the return of the herds and herdsmen to the valley, thousands of people line the streets of Gstaad for a glimpse of cows, dressed in colourful floral headdresses, and goats that continually serve the area. Such a day presents a lucrative opportunity for local businesses. One woman I met had spent 30 years on the Landfrauen Saanenland selling items ranging from cheese to marmalade. 'I will not get rich with what I'm doing,' she insisted. 'I do this out of passion, for the community, because being together is not about having an income, it's out of love.' Aside from the heightened sense of drama created by the Zuglete, Gstaad's relaxation-related motto of 'Comeup, slow down' can't be argued with. But those seeking a total escape should head to the tiny village of Ablandschen – situated on the edge of the Bernese Oberland and the Freiburg Alps, 4,265ft above sea level. Known locally as Detox Valley and home to only 32 inhabitants, here you can pay a visit to the smallest church in Switzerland and dine at the inviting Berghotel zur Sau. 'Welcome to the end of the world' is the message from owners of the cosy establishment to prospective guests, who can try a range of Swiss dishes. Mushrooms and potatoes that accompanied my main dish of pork were grown just around the corner while the starter salad was made up of handpicked ingredients. A bottle of the sparkling Blanc de Noirs – a Swiss spin on Champagne due to its mirrored production process – was the perfect accompaniment. My trip ended by catching the state-of-the-art GoldenPass Express train from Gstaad to Montreux – an 80-minute journey offering panoramic views of the Swiss Alps and valleys plus Lac Leman (Lake Geneva). This route is included in the Swiss Travel Pass (see information box above right) and seated in prestige class – elevated in terms of height in the carriage and service – I tried out my heated leather seat, capable of rotating 180 degrees, before enjoying a cheese board and coffee. Gazing out the window as I glided through this breathtaking scenery, I was offered one final reminder of how avoiding well-trodden paths, going out of the main season and taking in the sights at your own pace makes travel so much more satisfying.
Wales Online
21 hours ago
- Wales Online
This laid-back harbour town has dolphin views and lush seafood worth the drive
This laid-back harbour town has dolphin views and lush seafood worth the drive Come for the wildlife stay for the incredible food scene This small harbour town is a surprising goldmine for marine life-watching on the Pembrokeshire coast. (Image: Portia Jones ) Looking for a wildlife hotspot on the glorious Welsh coastline? The small harbour town of Fishguard is a surprising goldmine for marine life-watching on the Pembrokeshire coast. From the shoreline between Poppit and Strumble, porpoises slice through the waves with astonishing regularity. Dolphins aren't shy either; they're often spotted between Poppit and Fishguard, sometimes venturing right into the harbour or Newport Bay for a splashy appearance. Seals? They're adorable local celebs during pupping season when chunky pups haul out onto public beaches for a well-earned rest. Head to Strumble Head for one of Sea Trust Wales' porpoise watches and get clued up by local experts. Just down the road, their Ocean Lab visitor centre, near Fishguard and Goodwick station, lets you observe native sea creatures in a capture-and-release aquarium. If you fancy swapping your binoculars for a boat trip, there are regular wildlife-watching excursions along the coast, offering front-row seats to seabird colonies, playful dolphins, and dramatic cliffs. Between the marine life, epic views, and a small-town food scene that punches well above its weight, Fishguard isn't just a stop on the way to somewhere else. It's the destination. Here's how to make the most of a long weekend in Fishguard. Article continues below Wildlife watching trip There's so much wildlife here Fishguard, Wales, offers excellent opportunities for wildlife viewing, particularly marine life. According to Visit Pembrokeshire, common and bottlenose dolphins are frequently spotted in Fishguard Bay, sometimes even popping into the harbour, much to the delight of residents and tourists. You can also spot harbour porpoises, minke whales, and even fin whales with specialised boat trips that depart from Fishguard. North Pembrokeshire Tours offers fun boat trips to Strumble Head running from April to October, weather permitting. On this brilliant wildlife trip, you'll see the landing place where French forces made the historic last invasion of mainland Britain en route to the dramatic Strumble Head lighthouse. Your trusty skipper will also take you to Emerald coves and secret beaches, hidden from view, where seals bask in the sun, and porpoises feed at the turn of the tide. Book here Coastal Walks and History There are loads of lovely walks around Fishguard (Image: Portia Jones ) Before diving into Fishguard's wildlife and culinary offerings, it's worth building up an appetite with a bracing coastal hike. A short walk from the town centre takes you to Fishguard Fort, an old defensive site with sweeping views across the bay. Built in the 18th century to protect against French invasions, the fort is now a peaceful spot to watch the ferry from Ireland glide into the port. The real local legend, though, is how Fishguard's women, dressed in distinctive red cloaks and black hats, helped repel the last invasion of Britain in 1797. Their formidable appearance supposedly tricked the French into thinking a much larger army awaited them. After exploring the town, it's time to dive into Fishguard's thriving food scene, starting with a banging brunch. Visit The Last Invasion Tapestry Before your next meal, take a short walk to Fishguard Town Hall, where the impressive Last Invasion Tapestry is displayed. The last time Britain was invaded, it happened right here in Fishguard. On February 22, 1797, French troops landed just outside town in a chaotic attempt to stir up rebellion. It didn't last long. Local resistance, led by the legendary Jemima Nicholas, quickly brought the invasion to an end. It was over almost as soon as it began, but Fishguard still holds the title for the last invasion of Britain and wears it with pride. This short but dramatic campaign was the last time a hostile foreign force set foot on mainland Britain, and you can relive the story through the stunning Last Invasion Tapestry. This award-winning masterpiece, stretching an impressive 30 metres, was designed and stitched by around 80 talented local women in 1997 to mark the bicentenary. With intricate details that bring history to life, alongside storyboards and artefacts, you can understand how a small Welsh town became the setting for a momentous chapter in British history. Fishguard is one of my favourite places in Pembrokeshire (Image: Portia Jones ) Gorsedd Circle In 1936, Fishguard hosted the National Eisteddfod, Wales' legendary festival of music and poetry. To mark the occasion, the Gorsedd Circle was built. Just a short five-minute stroll from Fishguard Square, this historic stone circle is well worth a visit. Stand among the stones and picture the poets, musicians, and bards who once gathered here. It's got a bit of a mystical feel, perfect for soaking up some Welsh culture. You'll also get splendid views over Lower Town and Fishguard Fort across the bay. A little history, a little scenery, what's not to love? Lower Town Harbour and kayaking Wander down to Lower Town Harbour, a postcard-perfect fishing port that's been used as a filming location for movies like Moby Dick. (Image: Getty ) Wander down to Lower Town Harbour, a postcard-perfect fishing port that's been used as a filming location for movies like Moby Dick. If you're lucky, you'll find pop-up seafood stalls serving freshly caught crab or lobster sandwiches here. The simplicity of ultra-fresh seafood, a squeeze of lemon, and a touch of salt is a food lover's dream. Want an adventure while you're here? Kayaking in Pembrokeshire is hands down one of the best ways to explore this jaw-dropping coastline. With 220 miles of rugged cliffs, secret caves, and golden beaches, it's a paddler's paradise. And let's not forget, this is Britain's only coastal National Park, so you're in for some seriously epic views! Hop in a kayak with Kayak King in Fishguard, and you'll be treated to an unforgettable tour of the Pembrokeshire coast. Glide through crystal-clear waters, weave in and out of hidden sea caves, and get up close to incredible marine life. Keep your eyes peeled for the resident seals lounging on the rocks or bobbing in the waves, and if you're lucky, you might even spot a playful porpoise! No experience? No worries! Kayak King's expert guides ensure everyone feels right at home, from total newbies to confident paddlers. Their stable, sit-on-top kayaks are extremely easy to handle, and they are best suited for sheltered waters, making it a fun and stress-free adventure for all ages. Where to eat in Fishguard Pembrokeshire is having an absolute moment when it comes to food. (Image: Portia Jones ) With waters full of diver-caught scallops, St Brides Bay crayfish, plump mussels, lobsters, bass and mackerel, Pembrokeshire serves up a serious coastal bounty. And Fishguard? It's holding its own with an impressive food scene that makes the most of all that local bounty. Independent cafés, cosy pubs and clever kitchens are turning out gastro-delights from just-landed seafood to creative plates you'd expect in a much bigger town. Here are a few of our top picks. From superstar gigs to cosy pubs, find out What's On in Wales by signing up to our newsletter here Cresswell's Café For a properly comforting Welsh lunch, Cresswell's Café is a must. This local haunt is famous for its Sunday lunches and traditional Welsh cawl. Their homemade soups and generously filled sandwiches are excellent options if you're looking for something lighter. Mannings Ffres With a welcoming ambience and a creative menu, Mannings Ffres is always a good breakfast choice. This café-greengrocer hybrid is a firm favourite with locals and uses quality ingredients sourced from Pembrokeshire's best producers. Their new breakfast stack is loaded with sausage patty, crispy bacon, black pudding, flat mushroom, and a perfectly cooked Trebover egg. Don't forget to try their locally roasted coffee—it's strong, smooth, and the perfect way to wake up before a day of exploring. Mannings Ffres is always a good breakfast choice (Image: Independent Coffee Guide ) The Gourmet Pig If you're looking for a quick yet high-quality breakfast, head to The Gourmet Pig. This award-winning deli stocks artisan Welsh cheeses, fresh pastries and local produce. Their sausage rolls and Pembrokeshire butter croissants are dangerously good, making it hard to choose just one item. If you're going on a long coastal walk, grab a freshly made baguette with local cheese and chutney for a top-tier picnic. Janes Fishguard – Coffee Shop If you love a cosy café with homemade treats, you'll adore Janes. This family-run spot is a charming blend of coffee shop and haberdashery, making it a unique place to unwind with a steaming cup of coffee. They serve Segafredo coffee (rich, smooth, and just the right level of indulgence) alongside a menu of homemade cakes, light lunches, and hearty bites. If you're after a proper Welsh treat, their bara brith (a traditional fruit loaf) is a must-try, moist, lightly spiced, and perfect with a slather of butter. Hooked @31 Fish and chips might be a classic, but it's an art form in Fishguard. At Hooked @31, you'll find some of Pembrokeshire's crispiest, freshest fish and chips. Their beer-battered cod, homemade tartar sauce, and double-cooked chips are nothing short of perfection. They also serve loaded fries with toppings like pulled pork, Welsh rarebit, and fresh seafood. Ffwrn Named after the Welsh word for oven, Ffwrn is a one-of-a-kind spot in a beautifully converted 1930s church hall. With its mix of vintage and industrial curiosities, lush greenery, open-plan space, and cooking centred around a roaring Fire, it's a must-visit dining spot in Pembrokeshire. On the menu? Crisp wood-fired pizzas, Middle Eastern-inspired sharing plates, and plenty of vegan and gluten-free options. Pair with local ales, hand-picked wines or a cheeky cocktail. Ffwrn isn't just about great food—it's also a buzzing event venue that hosts live performances and themed events. The Royal Oak Royal Oak Inn, Fishguard (Image: Wales Online ) For a cosy, atmospheric dinner, The Royal Oak is frankly unbeatable. This pub is where the surrender treaty was signed after the 1797 French invasion and it still holds its historic charm today. Expect filling portions, a fantastic selection of local ales, and a lively crowd of locals and visitors. Live folk music nights (usually on Tuesdays) are a great way to experience Pembrokeshire's musical heritage while enjoying a locale ale. Hot Chilli Indian Restaurant If you're craving richly spiced, comforting Indian food on the Welsh coast, Hot Chilli Indian Restaurant is a spot worth visiting. This family-run Bengali and Welsh eatery serves flavour-packed curries, sizzling tandoori dishes, and homemade desserts in a warm and welcoming setting. The extensive menu features all the beloved classics—from creamy kormas to rich, slow-cooked rogan josh—alongside a few house specials crafted by the chefs. However, if you still have room after your main course, it's worth saving space for dessert. Traditional Indian kulfi, flavoured with mango or pistachio, is a perfect way to end the meal—refreshing, sweet, and indulgent. JT at the Abergwaun Hotel JT at the Abergwaun Hotel is a must-visit spot (Image: Portia Jones ) The restaurant at The Abergwaun Hotel offers a contemporary twist on European cuisine, celebrating the finest Welsh produce. Expect carefully crafted dishes that balance bold flavours with fresh, local ingredients. Typical starters include crispy teriyaki pork belly with a zingy yuzu ponzu dressing or sticky king prawn bao buns packed with marinated cucumber and a punchy lime dressing. Mains are just as impressive, expect perfectly cooked Welsh ribeye, fillet steak with house chips, a rich peppercorn sauce, or teriyaki-glazed salmon with fennel-roasted new potatoes and charred broccoli. Vegetarians will also be well-served, with dishes like the spring vegetable medley featuring crispy nut bites, halloumi, and a fresh herb sauce. Late night drinks and ents The Ship Inn If you're not ready to call it a night, head to The Ship Inn for a proper old-school pub experience. Tucked away in Lower Town, Fishguard, right by the mouth of the River Gwaun, The Ship Inn is a popular alehouse with roots stretching back to the late 18th century and is brimming with character, sea-faring tales, and a cracking selection of real ales. Inside, walls are decked with old maritime photos, maps, and quirky memorabilia, adding to its wonderfully unspoiled charm. It's a Free House and a proud feature in the Good Beer Guide, so you know you're in for a top-notch pint. Theatre Gwaun If you're looking for an offbeat venue, Theatre Gwaun is a community-run theatre and cinema that offers indie films, live performances, and occasional comedy nights. It's an unexpected but fantastic way to round off the evening. Stay at the Abergwaun Hotel The Abergwaun Hotel is a boutique bolthole where the food is the real star. (Image: The Abergwaun Hotel ) The Abergwaun Hotel is a boutique bolthole where the food is the real star. Once a derelict building that stood empty for a decade, local couple Dan and Lois, who both have a background in high-end hospitality, gave it a new lease on life in 2020. The result? A stylish, contemporary 4-star hotel with five luxury en-suite rooms, a two-bedroom apartment, and a restaurant that's putting Fishguard on the foodie map. The rooms are bright and airy, with simple, elegant décor that uses neutral tones and soft textures. They are where minimalism meets comfort—nothing too fussy, just a relaxing space to crash after a day of eating and epic coastal walks. One of the rooms is even dog-friendly, so your adventure-loving pup doesn't have to miss out. When the hotel appeared on Channel 4's Four in a Bed in 2024, the visiting contestants praised the spotless rooms and cloud-like beds. One guest flopped onto the mattress and declared, "It's like lying on a cloud", while another couple admitted: 'This is going to be hard to beat.' Dan and Lois, owners of the Abergwaun Hotel in Fishguard. The couple and the hotel featured in an episode of Four in a Bed. (Image: Channel 4 ) The Real Star: The Food While the rooms are lovely, the real reason to stay here is the food. The hotel's restaurant, JT at The Abergwaun, is run by co-owner Dan, a chef who turns local ingredients into bold, inventive dishes. Here you'll find European flavours with a Pembrokeshire twist, all served in a laid-back, intimate setting. The menu changes with the seasons, and the quality is consistently high, whether you opt for the full-tasting menu or simply stop by for a well-crafted cocktail. The restaurant has received a Good Food Award for Gastro Pubs (Gold Seal) and is quickly establishing a reputation as one of the best places to eat in this part of Wales. Article continues below If you need proof, look no further than the reactions on Four in a Bed. Confident in his breakfast skills, Dan served up a morning feast that left one guest saying: 'I've eaten in restaurants all over the world, and that's probably one of the best breakfasts I've ever had.' High praise, indeed.
