The juicy tale of Saitama's prized yuzu
Here in the Takinoiri district of Moroyama, Saitama Prefecture, the sparsely marked Yuzu no Sanpomichi walkway threads into the forest, passing quiet yuzu groves. The ascending trail, which takes me past half-century-old yuzu trees that cling to treacherous slopes, leads to Katsuragi Kannon, a temple perched 300 meters above sea level.
The area was named Katsuragi by Gyoki, a priest of the Nara Period (710-94), who believed the mountain resembled Mount Katsuragi in Yamato Province (present-day Nara Prefecture). The local citrus, known as Katsuragi yuzu, takes its name from this region.
In the yuzu groves, aging farmers tend to the thorny trees by hand. Wearing thick gloves and boots to protect herself from the spikes, second-generation Katsuragi yuzu farmer Aiko Ikebe, 78, tells me it's important to thin out the branches properly.
'If you leave them, everything gets tangled and the wind can't pass through,' she says. 'Then the sunlight doesn't reach the inner branches and you start getting dead wood and black specks like you see on oranges.'
New shoots appear quickly after each pruning and must be trimmed while they are still soft. Farmers like Ikebe repeat the process up to four times a year, through the scorching summer heat until early October. According to Ikebe, there are about 50 farmers left in Moroyama.
Harvesting yuzu is no easy task as it involves dealing with thorny branches. |
KIYOMIEN
While yuzu is synonymous with Shikoku — the island's Kochi Prefecture accounts for more than half of Japan's overall yuzu production — Moroyama claims to have the country's oldest cultivated yuzu variety with Katsuragi.
According to local lore, cultivation began here in the Nara Period, an era that predates the history of Mizuo, a village in Kyoto Prefecture that's traditionally known as the birthplace of yuzu.
Such dueling historical claims between towns are nothing new in Japan. Documentary evidence, however, confirms that yuzu cultivation was present by the Edo Period (1603-1868) in Moroyama: An entry in the Shinpen Musashi Fudoki , a historical survey of Musashi Province (present-day Saitama Prefecture) published around 1820, identifies yuzu as a notable product of what is now Moroyama's Takinoiri district.
Still, the citrus remained a peripheral crop until the early Showa Era (1926-89), when, as the local tale goes, influential local farmer Ichitaro Kushida gave up raising silkworms to dedicate the family fields to yuzu trees, banking on the fruit's aroma.
Seeding ideas
By the early 20th century, Moroyama growers were shipping crates of Katsuragi yuzu to Tokyo's Kanda Market. The boom continued until the opening of the Great Seto Bridge in 1988, which connected Japan's main island to Shikoku and allowed Kochi's neatly packaged fruit to be easily transported and distributed across the country.
'(Before the bridges were completed), there wasn't any yuzu from Kochi or Tokushima Prefecture. Even if the crop's quality wasn't very high, we could sell our yuzu for a good price,' says Ikebe, whose daughter, Sachiko, 48, returned from Tokyo to join the family's yuzu farming business, Kiyomien, a few years ago.
Aiko Ikebe (left) and her daughter Sachiko run Kiyomien, their family's yuzu farming business. |
AAROHI NARAIN
Yuzu cultivation is an investment that defies the economics of modern citrus farming — a yuzu tree propagated from seed won't bear fruit for nearly two decades.
'Most commercially grown citrus trees are grafted. Nurseries graft scions of desired varieties onto rootstocks, and farmers plant these saplings, which typically bear fruit in three to five years,' says Akari Hiroi, a citrus sommelier with the Ehime Prefecture-based Citrus Sommeliers Association .
But yuzu, she says, follows a different rhythm. 'There's a tradition of growing yuzu directly from seeds in some places. That demands extraordinary patience.'
Moroyama is one of those rare places. Most Katsuragi yuzu trees are still grown as mishō (plants raised from seed).
But sticking to tradition has a downside. Faced with stiff competition from other yuzu-cultivating regions with more productive crops, prices of the whole fruit have slumped. To support aging, labor-starved farmers and keep their surplus fruit from turning into compost, Moroyama has introduced a yuzu ownership scheme : Participants enter into a seasonal contract with a local grower, effectively 'claiming' a tree as their own. In return, they're entitled to harvest the fruit.
This arrangement, however, requires flexibility. Growers can't predict yields until late summer, and last year's poor harvest left farmers unable to offer new contracts.
To generate more revenue, Ikebe and her daughter have turned to crowdfunding for small-batch projects such as yuzu chocolate and yuzu koshō (pepper), the latter enlisting the expertise of Saga-based condiment specialist Mifukuan .
They also let local and international tourists take part in yuzu-picking at Kiyomien during the harvest season, an activity akin to the popular strawberry-picking sessions in places like Yamanashi Prefecture.
An aromatic boost
The allure of Katsuragi yuzu lies in its aroma, which locals tell me is four times more fragrant than other yuzu varieties.
Research backs up their claim. A 2021 analysis by Josai University found that citrus paste from Saitama has nearly four times more limonene — a chemical compound found in the rinds of citrus fruits — than its Kochi-grown counterparts.
Kazuki Asahara of Asahara Brewery makes a fragrant yuzu liqueur with Katsuragi yuzu juice and peels. |
ASAHARA BREWERY
But as ever, the proof is in the pudding.
At Asahara Brewery in the town of Ogose, my sip of pure Katsuragi yuzu juice is rich and perfumed, offering aromatic notes and acidic touches. It tastes like an amplified version of other yuzu juices I've tried: deeper, rounder and inflected with spruce, clove and crushed jasmine blossoms.
The brewery's tōji (master brewer), Kazuki Asahara, 35, makes 100% Katsuragi yuzushu (yuzu liqueur). He pounds the peel and incorporates it in the liqueur — using only the juice means discarding nearly 90% of the fruit. The beverage conjures up the flavors of bittersweet pith, radiant juice and fragrant skin.
Traditionally, yuzushu is made with sake as a base spirit, but Asahara chose to use shōchū (traditional Japanese distilled spirit) instead, a move enabled by the brewery's broad range of production licenses that allow it to make sake, beer, liqueur and sparkling alcoholic beverages.
'Liqueurs are often stored at room temperature, so when using sake as a base, its off-smells can become more noticeable,' he says.
Over at U.B.P Brewery , founder Kento Kobayashi, 43, was given a batch of yuzu by Moroyama growers last year. 'The farmers have struggled with marketing it, but it's an amazing product,' he says. The ale brewed with its juice sold out quickly. This summer, a second batch, using only the peels, is on the way.
At U.B.P Brewery, visitors can try a refreshing ale brewed with Katsuragi yuzu juice. |
AAROHI NARAIN
At Tokigawa Brewery , a producer of over 200 yuzu-based soft drinks, owner Toshiro Kobori, 46, retains the citrus' essential oils in his beverages instead of removing them, as most soft drink manufacturers would, for visual appeal. He sells the fizzy drinks to local restaurants in Saitama.
'There's meaning in small producers (like us) crafting products with care,' he says. 'We hold hand-pressing workshops so the next generation can experience what it's like to use a traditional wooden press to make yuzu juice.'
From tree to table
Katsuragi yuzu isn't just being poured in Saitama, it's also being plated.
At 6Hundred Cafe in the town of Tokigawa, five seed-grown trees planted decades ago thrive on the cafe grounds.
'The citrus' aroma is unmistakable — completely different from store-bought yuzu,' says owner Yoshimi Matsuo, 66.
Noticing unharvested yuzu around the area, Matsuo began sourcing directly from neighbors. After rounds of experimentation, including simmering yuzu in chai spices and poaching it in wine, Matsuo and his team began incorporating the citrus into their menu, introducing items like French toast with Katsuragi yuzu compote, yuzu black tea, and Basque cheesecake with a subtle yuzu twist.
Yoshimi Matsuo, owner of 6Hundred Cafe, shows off his French toast made with Katsuragi yuzu compote. |
6HUNDRED CAFE
Meanwhile, for Kenmei Kunitake, 75, owner of Dante, a cheesecake shop in Urawa Ward, it wasn't novelty but nostalgia that drew him to Katsuragi yuzu. Raised in the mountains of Kumamoto, he remembers a towering yuzu tree in his family garden.
'Every year, the tree would be heavy with oversized fruit,' he says. Now his team uses whole Katsuragi yuzu — pulp, peel and all — for marmalade, pound cakes and his signature cheesecake.
'Supporting local agriculture is part of supporting the nation's stability,' he says. 'I want to honor nature's gifts and help slow the decline of rural Japan.'
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Japan Times
18 hours ago
- Japan Times
The juicy tale of Saitama's prized yuzu
Here in the Takinoiri district of Moroyama, Saitama Prefecture, the sparsely marked Yuzu no Sanpomichi walkway threads into the forest, passing quiet yuzu groves. The ascending trail, which takes me past half-century-old yuzu trees that cling to treacherous slopes, leads to Katsuragi Kannon, a temple perched 300 meters above sea level. The area was named Katsuragi by Gyoki, a priest of the Nara Period (710-94), who believed the mountain resembled Mount Katsuragi in Yamato Province (present-day Nara Prefecture). The local citrus, known as Katsuragi yuzu, takes its name from this region. In the yuzu groves, aging farmers tend to the thorny trees by hand. Wearing thick gloves and boots to protect herself from the spikes, second-generation Katsuragi yuzu farmer Aiko Ikebe, 78, tells me it's important to thin out the branches properly. 'If you leave them, everything gets tangled and the wind can't pass through,' she says. 'Then the sunlight doesn't reach the inner branches and you start getting dead wood and black specks like you see on oranges.' New shoots appear quickly after each pruning and must be trimmed while they are still soft. Farmers like Ikebe repeat the process up to four times a year, through the scorching summer heat until early October. According to Ikebe, there are about 50 farmers left in Moroyama. Harvesting yuzu is no easy task as it involves dealing with thorny branches. | KIYOMIEN While yuzu is synonymous with Shikoku — the island's Kochi Prefecture accounts for more than half of Japan's overall yuzu production — Moroyama claims to have the country's oldest cultivated yuzu variety with Katsuragi. According to local lore, cultivation began here in the Nara Period, an era that predates the history of Mizuo, a village in Kyoto Prefecture that's traditionally known as the birthplace of yuzu. Such dueling historical claims between towns are nothing new in Japan. Documentary evidence, however, confirms that yuzu cultivation was present by the Edo Period (1603-1868) in Moroyama: An entry in the Shinpen Musashi Fudoki , a historical survey of Musashi Province (present-day Saitama Prefecture) published around 1820, identifies yuzu as a notable product of what is now Moroyama's Takinoiri district. Still, the citrus remained a peripheral crop until the early Showa Era (1926-89), when, as the local tale goes, influential local farmer Ichitaro Kushida gave up raising silkworms to dedicate the family fields to yuzu trees, banking on the fruit's aroma. Seeding ideas By the early 20th century, Moroyama growers were shipping crates of Katsuragi yuzu to Tokyo's Kanda Market. The boom continued until the opening of the Great Seto Bridge in 1988, which connected Japan's main island to Shikoku and allowed Kochi's neatly packaged fruit to be easily transported and distributed across the country. '(Before the bridges were completed), there wasn't any yuzu from Kochi or Tokushima Prefecture. Even if the crop's quality wasn't very high, we could sell our yuzu for a good price,' says Ikebe, whose daughter, Sachiko, 48, returned from Tokyo to join the family's yuzu farming business, Kiyomien, a few years ago. Aiko Ikebe (left) and her daughter Sachiko run Kiyomien, their family's yuzu farming business. | AAROHI NARAIN Yuzu cultivation is an investment that defies the economics of modern citrus farming — a yuzu tree propagated from seed won't bear fruit for nearly two decades. 'Most commercially grown citrus trees are grafted. Nurseries graft scions of desired varieties onto rootstocks, and farmers plant these saplings, which typically bear fruit in three to five years,' says Akari Hiroi, a citrus sommelier with the Ehime Prefecture-based Citrus Sommeliers Association . But yuzu, she says, follows a different rhythm. 'There's a tradition of growing yuzu directly from seeds in some places. That demands extraordinary patience.' Moroyama is one of those rare places. Most Katsuragi yuzu trees are still grown as mishō (plants raised from seed). But sticking to tradition has a downside. Faced with stiff competition from other yuzu-cultivating regions with more productive crops, prices of the whole fruit have slumped. To support aging, labor-starved farmers and keep their surplus fruit from turning into compost, Moroyama has introduced a yuzu ownership scheme : Participants enter into a seasonal contract with a local grower, effectively 'claiming' a tree as their own. In return, they're entitled to harvest the fruit. This arrangement, however, requires flexibility. Growers can't predict yields until late summer, and last year's poor harvest left farmers unable to offer new contracts. To generate more revenue, Ikebe and her daughter have turned to crowdfunding for small-batch projects such as yuzu chocolate and yuzu koshō (pepper), the latter enlisting the expertise of Saga-based condiment specialist Mifukuan . They also let local and international tourists take part in yuzu-picking at Kiyomien during the harvest season, an activity akin to the popular strawberry-picking sessions in places like Yamanashi Prefecture. An aromatic boost The allure of Katsuragi yuzu lies in its aroma, which locals tell me is four times more fragrant than other yuzu varieties. Research backs up their claim. A 2021 analysis by Josai University found that citrus paste from Saitama has nearly four times more limonene — a chemical compound found in the rinds of citrus fruits — than its Kochi-grown counterparts. Kazuki Asahara of Asahara Brewery makes a fragrant yuzu liqueur with Katsuragi yuzu juice and peels. | ASAHARA BREWERY But as ever, the proof is in the pudding. At Asahara Brewery in the town of Ogose, my sip of pure Katsuragi yuzu juice is rich and perfumed, offering aromatic notes and acidic touches. It tastes like an amplified version of other yuzu juices I've tried: deeper, rounder and inflected with spruce, clove and crushed jasmine blossoms. The brewery's tōji (master brewer), Kazuki Asahara, 35, makes 100% Katsuragi yuzushu (yuzu liqueur). He pounds the peel and incorporates it in the liqueur — using only the juice means discarding nearly 90% of the fruit. The beverage conjures up the flavors of bittersweet pith, radiant juice and fragrant skin. Traditionally, yuzushu is made with sake as a base spirit, but Asahara chose to use shōchū (traditional Japanese distilled spirit) instead, a move enabled by the brewery's broad range of production licenses that allow it to make sake, beer, liqueur and sparkling alcoholic beverages. 'Liqueurs are often stored at room temperature, so when using sake as a base, its off-smells can become more noticeable,' he says. Over at U.B.P Brewery , founder Kento Kobayashi, 43, was given a batch of yuzu by Moroyama growers last year. 'The farmers have struggled with marketing it, but it's an amazing product,' he says. The ale brewed with its juice sold out quickly. This summer, a second batch, using only the peels, is on the way. At U.B.P Brewery, visitors can try a refreshing ale brewed with Katsuragi yuzu juice. | AAROHI NARAIN At Tokigawa Brewery , a producer of over 200 yuzu-based soft drinks, owner Toshiro Kobori, 46, retains the citrus' essential oils in his beverages instead of removing them, as most soft drink manufacturers would, for visual appeal. He sells the fizzy drinks to local restaurants in Saitama. 'There's meaning in small producers (like us) crafting products with care,' he says. 'We hold hand-pressing workshops so the next generation can experience what it's like to use a traditional wooden press to make yuzu juice.' From tree to table Katsuragi yuzu isn't just being poured in Saitama, it's also being plated. At 6Hundred Cafe in the town of Tokigawa, five seed-grown trees planted decades ago thrive on the cafe grounds. 'The citrus' aroma is unmistakable — completely different from store-bought yuzu,' says owner Yoshimi Matsuo, 66. Noticing unharvested yuzu around the area, Matsuo began sourcing directly from neighbors. After rounds of experimentation, including simmering yuzu in chai spices and poaching it in wine, Matsuo and his team began incorporating the citrus into their menu, introducing items like French toast with Katsuragi yuzu compote, yuzu black tea, and Basque cheesecake with a subtle yuzu twist. Yoshimi Matsuo, owner of 6Hundred Cafe, shows off his French toast made with Katsuragi yuzu compote. | 6HUNDRED CAFE Meanwhile, for Kenmei Kunitake, 75, owner of Dante, a cheesecake shop in Urawa Ward, it wasn't novelty but nostalgia that drew him to Katsuragi yuzu. Raised in the mountains of Kumamoto, he remembers a towering yuzu tree in his family garden. 'Every year, the tree would be heavy with oversized fruit,' he says. Now his team uses whole Katsuragi yuzu — pulp, peel and all — for marmalade, pound cakes and his signature cheesecake. 'Supporting local agriculture is part of supporting the nation's stability,' he says. 'I want to honor nature's gifts and help slow the decline of rural Japan.'
Japan Times
18 hours ago
- Japan Times
How to bring back the mojo in ‘old old old rice'
You'd have noticed in your local supermarket or heard from the news that rice prices have nearly doubled year-on-year. To combat this, the government is releasing bichikumai or stockpiled rice to select retail outlets across the country . By law, rice that is produced between Nov. 1 of the previous year and Oct. 31 of the current year is known as shinmai (new rice), while rice that was produced the year before is komai — the kanji character for "ko" means 'old' while "mai" means 'rice'; bichikumai is also generally known as komai. Each older batch of rice is simply tagged with an additional 'ko' to its name, for example, kokomai (old old rice). Kokokomai (old old old rice) or the 2021 crop, along with older rice, is now available on the market, a rare offering that has prompted concerns over its quality from some locals. When cooked, Japanese rice is prized for its moistness, slight stickiness and a subtle sweetness — qualities that shinmai has in abundance. But the older the rice gets, the drier it becomes, losing a little of its sweetness and umami. Stay updated on Japan's rice crisis. Quality journalism is more crucial than ever. Help us get the story right. For a limited time, we're offering a discounted subscription plan. Unlimited access US$30 US$18 /mo FOREVER subscribe NOW Is kokokomai bad? Whether you'll discern a difference or not depends on your palate — and how the rice is cooked. You'll notice it as plain rice, but, just to give two examples, if it is served as takikomi gohan (rice mixed and cooked with other ingredients), or sprinkled with furikake (Japanese seasoning of sesame seeds, seaweed and dried fish), chances are you won't find much of a difference. You can also offset the loss of moisture by adding more water or other liquids when you cook the rice. Adding a little sake to it may also improve its taste, while a little oil will make the grains shiny like shinmai. Some dishes like fried rice require rice that's drier than shinmai, in which case kokokomai may actually be more suitable. For my takikomi gohan recipe below, I give it a boost of umami by adding shirodashi (concentrated dashi base) and cooking it in a pot to produce delicious okoge (burnt or browned bits). Adding more water to "kokokomai" (old old old rice) will help offset some of its lost moisture. | GETTY IMAGES Serves 4 Prep time: 10 minutes Cook time: 20 minutes (does not include rice-soaking time) Ingredients: 400 grams kokokomai 6 thin asparagus shoots 150 grams boneless skinless chicken thigh 600 milliliters water 2 tablespoons shirodashi 1 tablespoon light soy sauce 2 tablespoons sake Salted butter to taste Coarsely ground black pepper to taste Directions: 1. Measure the rice and rinse it in four to five rounds of water. Then soak the grains in water for 30 minutes to an hour. 2. While the rice is soaking, cut the asparagus into 2-centimeter-long pieces, and cut the chicken into bite-size pieces. 3. Transfer the drained and soaked rice to a heavy cooking pot and add 600 milliliters of water, shirodashi, soy sauce, sake, asparagus and chicken. Start cooking the rice over high heat until the liquid comes to a boil. Put on a tight-fitting lid, turn the heat down to low and cook for another 13 minutes. 4. Raise the heat to high and cook until you hear crackling sounds from the pot. Turn off the heat and let the rice steam for 15 to 20 minutes. 5. Fluff up the rice to distribute the asparagus and chicken evenly. Serve the rice topped with coarsely ground black pepper and a pat of butter.
NHK
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Japan's Emperor, Empress wrap up trip to Hiroshima
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