Views of heritage architecture all tangled up in Darjeeling
Gift this article
"Did you know that the older name for Darjeeling was Dorje-ling, or the land of thunder? When the British arrived, they couldn't pronounce the original name and called it Darjeeling—a name that stuck on," says our tour guide, Rahul Thapa, as we travel from the pristine tea estates of Kurseong to the main town of Darjeeling. Locals such as Thapa are worried that the picturesque hill station nestled in north Bengal may soon acquire another name, 'Taarjeeling", due to the proliferation of entangled wires dangling across the main town. In fact, this quip has become a popular joke with which guides and taxi drivers greet tourists.
"Did you know that the older name for Darjeeling was Dorje-ling, or the land of thunder? When the British arrived, they couldn't pronounce the original name and called it Darjeeling—a name that stuck on," says our tour guide, Rahul Thapa, as we travel from the pristine tea estates of Kurseong to the main town of Darjeeling. Locals such as Thapa are worried that the picturesque hill station nestled in north Bengal may soon acquire another name, 'Taarjeeling", due to the proliferation of entangled wires dangling across the main town. In fact, this quip has become a popular joke with which guides and taxi drivers greet tourists.
As someone who has visited Darjeeling earlier—my last visit being nearly 14 years ago—the statement seems like hyperbole. That is until I reach Darjeeling's Mall Road. Landmarks such as the Planter's Club (now renovated) and the Darjeeling Clock Tower, which had once stood tall, framed by mountains all around, today seem to be peeking out from behind a veil of tangled wires. Views of exquisite neocolonial and Gothic architecture, with a smattering of beautiful Art Deco elements here and there, are impeded by shops and restaurants under construction. During my last trip, I remember sitting on the deck of the famous Keventers cafe, enjoying unimpeded views of the mountains and of the Gothic churches. Today, the wire is as much part of the landscape.
This observation is shared by many travellers to Darjeeling such as Sibendu Das, a Kolkata-based corporate content writer and culinary explorer, who has been visiting the hill station since his childhood. 'The buildings here are so rich in heritage value. But you can't view even the most obvious ones in their glory as there are wires going through the town. Try photographing one of them— you will find political posters, meshes of wires and under-construction buildings everywhere," says Das, who visited Darjeeling just last month to traverse the entire Unesco World Heritage toy train route from New Jalpaiguri Station to the main town.
Darjeeling is not alone in being a victim of rampant haphazard urbanisation. Most of the hill stations across India have witnessed a drastic alteration in their landscapes—from charming havens with heritage architecture to dense urban sprawls packed with build ings of all shapes and sizes, incongruous to the laidback pristine beauty of these towns. Darjeeling has always held a lot of charm for history buffs and Satyajit Ray fans—the director based a story from his famous Feluda series here and shot some of his films in this town. This has attracted both domestic and foreign tourists. The Darjeeling Clock Tower
That the town is turning into a concrete jungle saddens Sailesh Sarda, the fourth generation of his family to run Nathmulls Tea and a premium tea room in Darjeeling. 'Tourism is the backbone of our economy. But today, if you open a window expecting to see the mountains, you are greeted by incomplete construction," he says. Sarda moved out of Darjeeling to an adjoining village, located 40 minutes away, to escape this urban chaos.
Also read: Planner: 5 events that make this weekend musical
For those, who want to experience the old world charm of Darjeeling, there are still some stellar heritage structures, which often fall under the radar. Take, for instance, the house of pioneering industrialist Butto Kristo Paul—a mansion, with ornate wooden framed windows and traditional entrance, built between 1900 and 1910.
A visit to the house of Chittaranjan Das, a freedom fighter and political activist popularly known as Deshbandhu, is also recommended. His home was witness to several historical events and the backdrop to films such as Sanyasi Raja featuring Uttam Kumar.'The film was based on a real incident from colonial times, when a zamindar was believed to have died. Several years later, he returned and there was a long legal battle to determine if the man who had come back was real or fake. The event that started it all—the zamindar dying on an evening marked by rough weather, his body disappearing—took place in Chittaranjan Das's house in Darjeeling," adds Das.
Darjeeling has so much to offer for those interested in colonial and post-colonial history. It remains to be seen how the hill station will take the route of mindful development and manage to keep the wires away from its heritage structures and natural beauty. Topics You May Be Interested In
Hashtags
Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles
India.com
4 hours ago
- India.com
Udaipur's Most Thrilling Hiking Trails: 6 Dangerous Routes To Explore
Udaipur, also known as 'City of Lakes,' is famous for its beautiful palaces, calm lakes, and cultural heritage. But, behind its royal elegance is a hidden side that calls out to all adventure lovers – the thrilling and risky hiking trails that lie on the city's borders. These trails present a wonderful combination of scenic views, heart-racing experiences, and an opportunity to get lost in the wilds of the Aravalli Range. These trails near Udaipur promise to offer the best getaway for an adventurer looking to escape the noise of the city life. The following mountains are considered to be some of the most difficult yet exciting hikes that every adventure enthusiast should try at least once. 1. Sajjangarh Monsoon Palace Trail The Sajjangarh Monsoon Palace is renowned among tourists for its breathtaking views from the peak of Banswara Peak. Gaining access to its majestic views is a hiking trail which many know of, but few dare to actually hike. The hike starts at the base of the mountain and is full of moderate level challenges such as dense forestry, rocky paths, and a steep elevation. During the monsoon season the hike is especially challenging, as the trail can be extremely slippery and dangerous. Although, if you are able to endure through these hardships, the rewarding view of Udaipur city, Fateh Sagar Lake, and the entire Aravalli hills is absolutely marvelous. While the hike may not be suitable for faint-hearted individuals, the thrill-seeking seasoned hikers will love the challenge. 2. Kumbhalgarh Fort Trek Kumbhalgarh is approximately 85 kilometers away from Udaipur, and is considered a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is without question one of the finest forts in all of Rajasthan. The trek to the fort is nothing short of mesmerizingly beautiful. It includes dense forests, steep climbs, and narrow ridges as well, which provide magnificent views of the landscape. One of the most defining features of the fort is its massive walls, spanning over 38 kilometers, which reinforce its historical significance. The trek is incredibly arduous, but the rewards are just waiting to be relished. The trek is particularly risky during the rainy season, so many precautions must be taken. 3. Haldighati Pass Trek The Haldighati Pass is renowned for the Haldighati battle between Maharana Pratap and the mughals and is rich in history. The pass is difficult to reach as it is both thrilling and challenging. There is a glimpse of dense forests, steep slopes and rough terrain which shows the rich history and natural beauty of the region. It gets its name from the yellow colored Turmeric or haldi as it is called in the local language And the remarkable views of the surrounding valleys and hills are a bonus. The trek is not well marked which makes it dangerous, but ultimately rewarding for history enthusiasts and adventure fans. 4. Jhar Waterfall Trek Jhar waterfall is located approximately 50 km from Udaipur and is a beautiful waterfall. The trek to reach the waterfall is exciting yet risky, particularly montPlayersaun season when the water supply is high. The path is very difficult with the dense forests, steep slopes, and rocky surfaces. The majestic waterfall drops from an approximate height of 150 feet. One needs an average amount of physical fitness in order to complete the trek. There are some risks involved, such as the rocks and water around the waterfall can get very slippery. In the end, taking a dip in the water in the summer makes the trek worth it. 5. Chandresh Trek Set to the northeast of Udaipur is the Chandresh Trek, one of the least studied trails in the area. The trek is about 30 kilometers away from the city and takes you through deep forests mixed with rocky outcrops and steep climbs. The pathway is not clear so this makes it a risky endeavor for inexperienced hikers. The beauty of Chandresh comes in the form of untouched nature which many outdoor enthusiasts appreciate. Alongside, the trek also provides jaw-dropping views of the Aravalli Range. It is best to hire a local guide for this trek, as the route is difficult to navigate. 6. Badi Lake Trek About 12 kilometers southwest of Udaipur lies Badi Lake, known as 'Badi Ka Talab' in the local dialect. The lake is calm and picturesque making it ideal for tourism and relaxation. Badi Lake is popular amongst travelers which in turn attracts lots of wildlife to the lake. The trek is not very long and offers a thrilling experience. Indeed, the panorama is quite stunning while you take in the lake and the hills surrounding the lake. The idyllic landscapes offer breathtaking sights for every outdoor lover. Although the trek is moderate in difficulty, it does become particularly treacherous in the rainy season therefore proper gear as well as caution is a must. Tips To Stay Safe When Hiking Near Udaipur While the trails are fun, they also come with a certain level of risk. Follow these tips to remain safe: Get a Local Guide: Most of these trials are not marked, and a local guide will resolve this problem. Come Prepared: Sturdy hiking shoes, first-aid kit, and adequate amounts of water and snacks are a must. Mind the Weather: Do not plan any hikes during the monsoon season or extreme weather conditions. Stick to the Trail: Leaving the trail can be harmful, especially if you are in a new area. Let Someone Know: Make sure that someone is aware of your hiking itinerary along with the time you plan to return. Final Thoughts Udaipur is rich in history and natural beauty, making it one of the most beautiful places to hike in Rajasthan. The trails in this region are quite favorable if you want to experience the untouched nature of the Aravalli Range. For seasoned hikers, and even beginners, the trails near Udaipur are guaranteed to be memorable. Grab your bag and hiking boots and get ready to explore!
India Today
5 hours ago
- India Today
Rape, terror: US updates travel advisory for India, asks women not to travel alone
The US Department of State has issued a Level 2 advisory to American citizens and workers living in India, asking them to "exercise increased caution", claiming that the country is witnessing a surge in rape, violence and terrorism incidents of late. The Trump administration has also asked women not to travel alone and be extra alert while at any tourist sites and other increased caution in India due to crime and terrorism. Some areas have increased risk. Violent crime and terrorism occur in India. Rape is one of the fastest growing crimes in India. Violent crimes, including sexual assault, happen at tourist sites and other locations," the advisory, which was reissued on June 16 after periodic review with updates to entry/exit requirements, of terrorism, the advisory asked US citizens to avoid travelling to tourist locations, transportation hubs, markets/shopping malls and government facilities, claiming they are vulnerable to terror attacks. The update in the US travel advisory to India comes nearly two months after Pakistan-based terrorists opened fire on tourists, killing 25 of them in Jammu and Kashmir's Pahalgam on April 2."Union territory of Jammu and Kashmir: Do not travel to this area (except for visits to the eastern Ladakh region and its capital, Leh) due to terrorism and civil unrest," the State Department attacks and violent civil unrest are possible. Violence happens sporadically in this area and is common along the Line of Control (LOC) between India and Pakistan. Violence also occurs in tourist spots in the Kashmir Valley: Srinagar, Gulmarg, and Pahalgam. The Indian government does not allow foreign tourists to visit certain areas along the LOC," it citizens were also warned about potential armed conflict between India and Pakistan, and were advised not to travel to areas near the international women to exercise the utmost caution, the notification said that the US government has limited ability to provide emergency services to US citizens in rural State Department specifically talked about the Naxal threat, saying, "Maoist extremist groups, or Naxalites, are active in a large area of India that spans from eastern Maharashtra and northern Telangana through western West Bengal". It included Bihar, Jharkhand, Chhattisgarh, Meghalaya and Odisha in the list of states which are affected by those who decide to travel to India in the coming days, the advisory urged them to not carry a satellite phone or a GPS device. "Possessing a satellite phone or GPS device is illegal in India and may result in a penalty of $200,000 or jail time of up to three years. Do not travel alone, especially if you are a woman".advertisementAdditionally, US nationals in India were instructed to review their travel plans and stay vigilant about their surroundings at all times, while also ensuring travel ATTACKS CENTREThe Congress seized the opportunity to attack the Centre, calling the advisory a "shock" and an "embarrassment" for the government."US Travel Advisory Shocks India! The June 2025 update warns women not to travel alone in India due to surging rape, violence, and terrorism risks. Is this the collapse of PM's "safe India" narrative? A global embarrassment for @narendramodi and @BJP4India," the Karnataka Congress wrote on Watch
India.com
5 hours ago
- India.com
Budget-Friendly Dehradun: How To Explore Without Opening Your Wallet
Dehradun, nestled in the foothills of the Himalayas, is a city full of charm, history, and natural beauty. But here's the best part—you don't need to spend a single rupee (or dollar) to enjoy it! Whether you're a traveler on a budget or just looking to experience the city differently, Dehradun has plenty of free attractions that will make your visit memorable. From lush forests and ancient temples to colonial-era architecture and peaceful walking trails, here's how you can explore Dehradun without spending a dime. a Leisurely Walk at Rajpur Road Rajpur Road is the heart of Dehradun, lined with old colonial-style buildings, boutique shops, and stunning views of the mountains. Walking along this road in the early morning or late evening is a treat—cool breeze, chirping birds, and the charm of an old hill town. If you go a little further, you'll find the famous Rajpur Trail, a scenic walking path that takes you through dense forests and offers breathtaking views of the Doon Valley. A perfect way to soak in the beauty of the hills without spending anything! Rajpur Road is one of the oldest streets in Dehradun, dating back to the British era. Rajpur Trail is about 4 km long and leads up to Old Mussoorie Road. Best time to visit: Early morning or evening for cool weather and scenic views. Tapkeshwar Temple One of the most serene places in Dehradun, Tapkeshwar Temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and is located inside a cave. What makes it special? A natural spring drips water onto the Shiva Linga continuously, creating a mystical and peaceful atmosphere. You can sit by the riverside, meditate, or simply admire the beauty of nature. The temple is free to enter and a great spot for those who love history and spirituality. The temple is believed to be over 1,000 years old. It is built inside a cave where Guru Dronacharya (from Mahabharata) is said to have meditated. The temple is busiest during Mahashivratri but remains peaceful throughout the year. the Forest Research Institute (FRI) A visit to Dehradun is incomplete without seeing the grand Forest Research Institute (FRI). The stunning Greco-Roman-style building is surrounded by lush greenery and vast gardens. While the museum inside has a small entry fee, the campus itself is free to explore. You can walk through its neatly manicured lawns, admire the old British-era architecture, and even have a small picnic under the shade of century-old trees. The place is often used as a shooting location for Bollywood movies, so you might recognize it from the big screen! FRI was established in 1906 by the British and is one of the oldest forest research institutes in India. The campus covers 450 hectares, making it one of the largest green spaces in Dehradun. Movies like 'Student of the Year' were shot here. in the Views from Lachhiwala Nature Park If you're a nature lover, then Lachhiwala is the perfect free escape from the city's hustle and bustle. It's a beautiful forested area with walking trails, scenic riverbanks, and plenty of fresh air. You can walk around, take photos of the lush surroundings, or just relax by the streams flowing through the park. Though there's a paid section with artificial pools, you can easily enjoy the natural beauty without spending a single rupee. Lachhiwala is part of the Rajaji National Park buffer zone. It's a popular sunrise and sunset viewpoint. Great spot for birdwatching, especially during winters. Robber's Cave (Gucchu Pani) Robber's Cave, also known as Gucchu Pani, is one of Dehradun's most fascinating natural wonders. It's a long, narrow cave with a river flowing right through it! Entry is free, and you can wade through the cool water, explore the rocky formations, and enjoy the peace and quiet. The cave is believed to have been a hiding place for robbers during British rule, which is how it got its name. A fun, free adventure that combines history and nature! Robber's Cave is about 600 meters long. Water disappears underground at certain points and reappears further ahead, a natural phenomenon that amazes visitors. Best time to visit: Summer afternoons when the cool water provides a refreshing break from the heat. Through Paltan Bazaar No visit to Dehradun is complete without a walk through Paltan Bazaar, the city's busiest and most vibrant market. Even if you're not buying anything, just walking around and absorbing the sights and sounds is an experience in itself. You'll see street vendors selling fresh fruits, shopkeepers calling out their deals, and the smell of spices filling the air. If you love photography or people-watching, this place is a goldmine! Paltan Bazaar is one of the oldest markets in Dehradun, dating back to colonial times. Famous for woolen clothes, spices, and handicrafts. Located near the historic Clock Tower, another must-see spot in the city. a Sunset at Maldevta For a quiet and breathtakingly beautiful end to your day, head to Maldevta, a hidden gem just a short drive from the city center. It's a peaceful riverside spot surrounded by green hills, perfect for watching the sunset. You can sit on the riverbank, dip your feet in the water, or just enjoy the fresh mountain air. It's one of those places where time seems to slow down, and the best part? It's absolutely free! Maldevta is a lesser-known destination, making it perfect for a peaceful outing. Great for stargazing at night due to minimal light pollution. Ideal spot for a short hike or a relaxing afternoon. Final Thoughts Exploring Dehradun without spending money is not only possible, but it also gives you a deeper connection with the city's culture, history, and natural beauty. Whether you're wandering through old streets, exploring caves, or just soaking in the breathtaking scenery, there's no shortage of experiences waiting for you. So put on your walking shoes, carry a bottle of water, and get ready to discover the best of Dehradun—without spending a single dollar!
