The Country's Biggest Culinary Stars Unite to Support L.A. Hospitality Workers
Right after the fires hit, Brad Metzger — President of Brad Metzger Restaurant Solutions and founder/producer of LA Chef Con — and his business partner, Jacqui Leanza, wanted to do something to support hospitality workers.
The idea for exactly what came to him when Metzger's friend, Michael Puglisi from Herd & Grace steak shop, texted him asking where he could donate products to help first responders and displaced community members.
"I texted him back asking if he would want to support and donate product if we were to put on a dinner," Metzger says. "He immediately said 'yes,' so I texted our friends at Santa Monica Seafood, Worldwide Produce and Chef's Warehouse — and they all replied back 'yes' literally within minutes."
Then they needed a location. "Our first ask was to our friends and clients at Lawry's The Prime Rib in Beverly Hills," Metzger recalls. "Again, within minutes, Ryan Wilson — COO of Lawry's Restaurants — texted back [that] they would host it. So we had the location and all the food products donated within about an hour and a half from the moment I had the idea."
He then proceeded to ask other chefs to partake in a CHEFS ❤️ LA benefit dinner at Lawry's The Prime Rib on Thursday, Feb. 27 — and they all agreed unless they happened to be out of town. "I was elated when Daniel Boulud's team responded the morning after I emailed him to ask to participate and not only was it an enthusiastic 'yes,'" Metzgers says, "but he also gave us his dish he would be preparing: lobster bisque."
Suzanne Goin, whose L.A. Loves Alex's Lemonade event similarly unites the culinary community for a cause, was another early call (and "yes"). Also on the lineup: Josiah Citrin, Niki Nakayama and Carole Iida-Nakayama, William Bradley of San Diego's Addison, Curtis Stone, Michael Cimarusti, Jon Yao, Jordan Kahn, Andrea Roller, Katianna and John Hong, Jeremy Fox, Ludovic Lefebvre, Suzanne Goin, Tiffany Dela Pena, Tim Cardenas, Nyesha Arrington, N.Y.'s Jonathan Waxman, Burt Bakman, Ryan Wilson, Ron Wood, Clemence De Lutz and Sherry Yard.
But how to pull it off? "When we plan The LA Chef Conference, it takes us about eight months from start to finish," Metzger says. "For this, we only had just over five weeks, so it was a big challenge — especially because Lawry's has never done anything like this: an eight-course plated celebrity chef dinner for 262 guests plus an hour-long Michelin VIP Experience cocktail party for 180."
What followed was a pretty intense five weeks, with all hands on deck. "I led the recruitment of renowned chefs, curated the food and beverage offerings, organized the live auction packages," Metzger says. "I worked closely with the Lawry's culinary, beverage and service teams, including CEO Tiffany Stith, who was involved in every detail. Co-Event Producer Jacqui Leanza managed the development of the CHEFS ❤️ LA website and managed the ticketing platform." And the moment tickets went on sale Feb. 1, every VIP and dinner ticket was gone within 15 minutes.
The also planned to accommodate food allergies: "Lawry's culinary director Jon Wood developed alternative dishes for five courses," Metzger notes. "Chef Daniel Boulud and his team arrived early to prepare a delicate mushroom consommé as a substitute for their Lobster Bisque, while chef Suzanne Goin crafted an alternative to her signature salad for guests with pork or dairy restrictions."
It proved a delicious success. During the VIP cocktail hour of the event hosted by Ruth Reichl, Jenn Harris and Somebody Feed Phil creator Phil Rosenthal, guests sampled passed creations like Citrin's truffled beef Bearnaise, "A French Classic in One Bite," that exploded in your mouth; the Nakayamas' baked "oyster" with; Bradley's chicken liver "churro"; Cimarusti's dry-aged Japanese shima aji with Astrea caviar; Jon Yao's prawn toast with (more) Astrea caviar; and Kahn's Golden Ostrea caviar with yeast, sea lettuce, bergamot and cocoa butter.
From a back room with wines like alcohol-free wine French Bloom and Lawry's famed potato chips with caviar, Stone himself was serving his contribution: lobster and caviar gougere with smoked brown butter aioli, creme fraiche and dill — prepared in batches on the spot. "There's two ways to eat it," Stone advised. "You can either pick up that little twill and have that as your first bite, followed by the grougere, or you can eat the whole thing." We did the former.
Beverage options included six premium wines and three craft cocktails — made from chef Michael Voltaggio's Marcado 28 Tequila and chef Elizabeth Falkner's T'MARO Amaro.
Then, diners migrated inside the dining room for eight memorable courses: Glory Bay salmon crudo by Yangban's Katianna and John John and Jeremy Fox kicked things off, followed by Ludo's buttery no-roll crab roll with sushi rice and dulse seaweed. Next came a Portuguese "spinning salad" with chorizo, potato and baked leek from Goin, Dela Pena and Cardenas (the new chef at Santa Monica's Fia restaurant).
Boulud's aforementioned lobster bisque came next, then Arrington and Waxman's decadent cavatelli with black Perigord truffles. Lawry's Wilson and Wood teamed with Bakman for California oak smoked black opal wagyu prime rib — served with Lawry's creamed spinach, whipped potatoes and Yorkshire pudding. "Do you want chicken instead?" waiters asked our table — to which all Lawry fans quickly replied, "no."
The meal concluded with apple galette with cider caramel prepared by De Lutz and Yard — and lots of money raised.
A live auction led by auctioneer Billy Harris featured experiences like a luxury NYC experience with a stay at 1 Hotel and exclusive dinners at Le Bernardin and Peter Luger; a private taco crawl with Bill Esparza and chef Michael Voltaggio in Los Angeles; and a Michelin-starred San Diego culinary getaway featuring a four-night stay at the newly reimagined Lafayette Hotel with exclusive tastings at Addison and Juniper & Ivy.
Between ticket sales and the live auction, the evening raised over $850,000 — with 100% of proceeds benefiting World Central Kitchen and Restaurants Care.
Chefs Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger, restaurant owners Kim Prince and Greg Dulan of L.A.'s beloved Dulan's on Crenshaw Soul Food Restaurant, Chef Sandra Cordero and Jessica Vasto, David Turkell, and Rebecca King and Katie Miller received praise for helping others. Los Angeles Deputy Fire Chief Jaime Moore, CAL FIRE Division Chief Anthony Jones, CAL FIRE Prevention Specialist Chloe Castillo, U.S. Army Veteran, CAL FIRE Division Chief Matthew Edmiston and Ventura County Fire Andy Vansciver attended as guests of honor.
"I have been in the restaurant business for 43 years and have never witnessed such unity and sense of mission among chefs," Metzger says. "Everyone came together, supporting one another, to execute eight courses of Michelin-level cuisine for 262 guests — all under three hours!"
"CHEFS ❤️ LA was born out of a desire to help, and the response has been overwhelming," Leanza adds. "The generosity of our chefs, sponsors and supporters has not only raised vital funds but has also highlighted the resilience and heart of this industry."
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