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The New Trains in Central Asia Travel Back in Time to Breathtaking Sights Along the Silk Road

The New Trains in Central Asia Travel Back in Time to Breathtaking Sights Along the Silk Road

In Central Asia, the new trains travel back in time. As early as the second century B.C., an important network of trading routes known as the Silk Road linked Europe and East Asia. Now, in Uzbekistan, the region's first high-speed railway system is making it easier to visit that part of the route. Italian photojournalist Francesco Lastrucci switched between these new trains—which are on par with France's TGV or Portugal's Alfa Pendular—and the slower Soviet-era trains. He traveled from the capital, Tashkent, to Khiva—with stops in Samarkand, Uzbekistan's second-largest city, and Bukhara. On board, Lastrucci encountered few tourists and even fewer English speakers. From left: The showroom of Bukhara Silk Carpets; Kukaldosh Madrassa, in Bukhara.
Buy rail tickets à la carte at railway.uz, starting from $21, or join curated Silk Road trips, such as this 17-day Silk Road Through the Caucasus itinerary with tour operator Abercrombie & Kent. Here, Lastrucci recounts his three days on the Silk Road, complete with his best recommendations in Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva.
Tilla-Kari Madrassa, in Samarkand's Registan Square. En route from Samarkand to Bukhara on a modern train.
Day 1: Samarkand
'When I arrived in Samarkand, a city in east Uzbekistan that was a major stop on the Silk Road, I headed to Registan Square, which is arguably the most iconic site in the country. It started raining on my walk, so I ducked into Siyob Bazaar, a covered market with two levels and vendors selling food, pottery, and spices. A woman was selling bread, which, in Uzbekistan, is round like a wheel—although the decoration changes from region to region. In Registan Square, there are three madrassas, or religious schools, including Tilla-Kari Madrassa, which is connected to an ornately decorated mosque. I then took a fast train from Samarkand to Bukhara. Looking south, I could see mountains in the distance, bordering Turkmenistan. When we stopped at a station in Navoi, I peeked out the door and saw only locals.' From left: Bread for sale at Siyob Bazaar, in Samarkand; the Sherdor Madrassa in Samarkand, reflected in a shop's mirror. From left: Posing in front of Khiva's Ichan-Kala West Gate; Kalta Minor, an unfinished minaret in Khiva.
Day 2: Bukhara
'Bukhara is known for art and hand-woven textiles. I started my day at Bukhara Silk Carpets, in the city's old town, which has a huge showroom and a workshop behind it, where I met about 20 kind, welcoming women making rugs. Artisans set up stalls at the entrance of the ancient Kukaldosh Madrassa, many painting Persian miniatures, which are small pieces with intricate details. For lunch, I sampled the pumpkin manti, a classic Central Asian dumpling, and beef soup at Jam, a restaurant close to the madrassa. My visit fell right before Nauruz, the Persian New Year; many locals were preparing for the celebration. These women were dancing while cooking sumalak, a sweet paste made of sprouted wheat.'
'The train from Bukhara to Khiva was older than my first train. The landscape between the cities is all desert. For me, looking out at that expanse was hypnotic; like a form of meditation. When I got on the train, I was given a pillow and sheets and made my bed in the car, which I shared with three other people—two women, who only spoke Uzbek, and a university math professor who spoke English. We chatted the whole trip, and he even invited me for lunch at his house.' From left: Inside Kuhna Ark, in Khiva; passing by the Paklavon Makhmud Mausoleum. Women dancing in the streets of Bukhara.
Day 3: Khiva
'Khiva is smaller than Bukhara. The main attraction is the unfinished Kalta Minor minaret, which I visited early in the morning to photograph. My fingers were freezing as I took pictures, but it was worth it to have no one else around. In the late afternoon, I had tea at Terrassa Café & Restaurant, which has breathtaking views over Ichan-Kala, Khiva's Old Town. Away from the big crowds of Samarkand, my stay felt quieter, more intimate. I continued on to Paklavon Makhmud Mausoleum, the tomb of Khiva's patron saint, which has a magnificent turquoise dome and a blue-tiled façade. Kuhna Ark citadel feels like a city within the city of Khiva. It was built in the 17th century by the khan of Khiva and is surrounded by fortified walls and watchtowers. I climbed one of them and found the best view of Khiva.' Terrassa Café & Restaurant, in Khiva.

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Inside Bali's Potato Head: I visited a luxury hotel that is redefining zero-waste travel
Inside Bali's Potato Head: I visited a luxury hotel that is redefining zero-waste travel

Yahoo

time12 hours ago

  • Yahoo

Inside Bali's Potato Head: I visited a luxury hotel that is redefining zero-waste travel

It was on a bus driving through the northern desert of Uzbekistan when an American woman I'd just met turned to me and said, 'Oh, you do environmental travel stories - have you been to Potato Head?' I hadn't. In fact, my first reaction was that it sounded like a venue out of Toy Story, hosted by Mr and Mrs Potato Head themselves. How wrong I was. It's actually a luxury eco resort in Indonesia and, according to her, the 'most legit sustainable hotel' she'd ever been to. 'Don't hesitate,' she said, 'just go.' With a claim as strong as this, there was no way I wasn't going to look into it. Of course, the idea of a luxury resort, with flights to reach it and spacious rooms and pools, being 'sustainable' at all might raise eyebrows. Related 3,000 tourists pledge to 'do the right thing' on Scotland's most famous road trip This new night train is promising travel to 100 European cities for less than the price of a flight Can a destination for jet-setters ever be truly eco-conscious? Potato Head doesn't claim to have all the answers, but it is a place where you don't have to choose between doing good and feeling good. Two weeks after my chance encounter in Uzbekistan, I'm on the plane from London to Bali, with sky-high expectations. My eyes are drawn first to the architecture at Potato Head. I'm met at the entrance by a dramatic courtyard surrounded by lush greenery - almost like a 'tropical Barbican' (an icon of Brutalist architecture, for my non-London-based readers). The buildings containing the studios are made out of roughly two million hand-pressed terracotta bricks from nearby villages, and the floor beneath me is bright and colourful, crafted from a mixture of broken ceramics and glass from the area. From a design perspective alone, I soon realised this was unlike any hotel I had ever stayed at. Far from marble lobbies and the sanitised opulence of your usual luxury chain, Potato Head felt different. You don't necessarily notice that all the walls and materials are made from recycled materials, because it's all decorated so elegantly. But find yourself absent-mindedly staring at the ceiling in reception, when you arrive, at intricate green crochet woven out of old Sprite bottles. The exterior of the hotel's beach club next door is even more striking, built completely out of reclaimed wooden shutters, salvaged from across Java, and the roof is thatched out of 5,000 flip-flops collected from the shoreline. The fact that the luxury feel of Potato Head attracts an upmarket crowd, who don't even realise they are staying in a place that is pioneering zero-waste in Indonesia, is perhaps the best part. Guests are even encouraged to take part in beach clean-ups every day. If you fill up a basket, you get a token for a free drink - quite the motivation, given how good the cocktails are. Almost nothing inside the hotel is disposable. Take the candles on every surface - glass holders made from the bottom half of used wine bottles, and the candle itself a combination of beeswax and the used chip fat oil from the kitchen. Certain details catch your eye - like the oyster shells from the fish restaurant, which get threaded and turned into decorations, the coconut slippers in my bedroom, or the staff aprons made from worn-out bed linen. Then there are the countless objects we take for granted in hotels, soap bottles, refillable shampoo bottles, coasters and the glass and kitchenware, which are all made from collected plastic and turned into products in their waste studio. You can even sit on these creations. Led by British designer Max Lamb, a new collection of chairs called WASTED is launching in early August to the public. They were so sleek and beautiful (as though they belonged in a gallery) that I wanted to take them all home to adorn my small London flat. Sadly, they wouldn't fit in my suitcase. The waste thing is not a vanity project either. Bali's natural beauty is world-renowned, but beneath its pristine beaches lies a mounting environmental crisis. The island produces a staggering 1.6 million tonnes of waste each year, including 330,000 tonnes of plastic. Because of ineffective waste management, much of the rubbish goes uncollected. Significant amounts end up in rivers and ultimately in the ocean, threatening Bali's ecosystem, the livelihood of its communities and the tourism industry on which it depends. By becoming 97.5 per cent zero waste itself, Potato Head (which is B Corp certified) is acting as a shining example in the region. Now they are expanding out to the local community, too. Together with a few other nearby businesses, Potato Head has launched a community waste project, aimed at drastically reducing the island's landfill waste and setting a new standard for sustainability in Indonesia. To turn Bali's waste into practical, affordable products for the hospitality industry, they have built a 2,000 m² recycling centre to process organic, inorganic and garden waste through a journey of advanced sorting, composting and upcycling. Founder Ronald Akili tells me, 'Regenerative hospitality is not a fad – it's a powerful tool for change, but there's still so much left to do. We hope to inspire the next generation of travel.' The aim is to cut waste from participating businesses in the region from over 50 per cent to a bold target of just 5 per cent - and they are well on their way already. Of course, while Potato Head has the capital and creative clout to lead Bali's zero-waste movement, it remains to be seen how widely its innovations can be adopted by smaller, less resource-rich players in the tourism industry. Throughout your stay, here's what I'd recommend eating and drinking. There are three restaurants, but my favourite was the plant-based 'Tanaman'. 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My favourite was Laklak, little rice flour pancakes with grated coconut and brown sugar syrup. Ubud is also home to many temples. I visited the Pyramids of Chi, a sound‑healing sanctuary where I took part in a deeply spiritual breathwork class. If you haven't tried breathwork, I highly recommend it. Related Serene Indonesia: A guide to the best food, wellness and beach experiences in Bali and beyond Journey through the rainforest in luxury on Malaysia's last remaining sleeper train Venturing 40 minutes by boat from the mainland to the island of Nusa Lembongan, I went scuba diving with manta rays and even a bamboo shark. Then I drove down the south coast to breathe in salty air on the cliffs of Uluwatu as surfers skimmed across the surface of the ocean. From the hotel itself, I also took a canoe trip to a nearby mangrove forest, within the Ngurah Rai Grand Forest Park in Benoa Bay, to litter pick and plant some mangrove seeds. 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On the Silk Road, Traces of Once Bustling Intercontinental Trade
On the Silk Road, Traces of Once Bustling Intercontinental Trade

New York Times

time3 days ago

  • New York Times

On the Silk Road, Traces of Once Bustling Intercontinental Trade

Lahore, Pakistan, is more visibly armed than Alabama, choked by Kafka-grade bureaucracy and pollution so thick you spit gray into the sink when you brush your teeth. These realities do not mar Lahore's five spreads in THE SILK ROAD: A Living History (Hemeria, $55), a sometimes beautiful travelogue of landscapes, buildings and faces along the route that once conveyed untold wealth between Europe and China, before the 16th century took trade out to sea. What the photographer Christopher Wilton-Steer does catch is the odd potential for solitude in a city so populous, as well as its architectural dignity and the benevolent pride with which Pakistanis regard outsiders. Wilton-Steer is a Londoner. In his overland trek spanning thousands of miles and 170 photographs, taken from both drone and ground vantages, his goal is feel-good: to prove that the Silk Road's 'legacy of interconnectivity and exchange' lives today, he writes, even if the literal goods now go by boat. The photos deliver. Because they flow west to east in the book, and because Wilton-Steer's favorite angles emerge as patterns throughout, they braid a telling human gradient: from onion domes in Venice to the pitched facades of Uzbekistan, from a Christian stele in Turkey to a Buddhist one in South Asia, from Uyghur faces to Han ones across China. And much to his credit, he doesn't falsely rusticate. His natives drive trucks past ruined Soviet airstrips. They wear cheugy leopard-print sweaters when they spin wool. That's life. But revelation isn't the endgame of the picturesque. Wilton-Steer's crinkled peaks and tender children of Tajikistan are prettily shot, but does it matter that the new schools, infrastructures, marketplaces and tourist centers that he depicts have been funded by the Aga Khan IV, the late billionaire developer and Muslim leader whose foundation also financed the photographer's voyage? (Wilton-Steer is the organization's head of communications.) This welcome if partisan book optimistically suggests that although container ships do the carrying now, cultural traders are alive and well on the Silk Road.

Best Travel Routes in Kyrgyzstan with a Private Driver
Best Travel Routes in Kyrgyzstan with a Private Driver

Time Business News

time3 days ago

  • Time Business News

Best Travel Routes in Kyrgyzstan with a Private Driver

Kyrgyzstan, often called the 'Switzerland of Central Asia,' is a land of rugged mountain ranges, alpine lakes, and unspoiled nomadic culture. For travelers looking to truly explore its remote beauty and vibrant traditions, the best way to get around is to hire a driver with car in Bishkek. Not only does this allow for a flexible and stress-free journey, but it also connects you with a knowledgeable local who can help you navigate routes, communicate with locals, and discover hidden gems along the way. Whether you're visiting for adventure, culture, or relaxation, a private driver opens up the country in ways that packaged tours or self-driving just can't match. Travel in Kyrgyzstan comes with unique challenges. The terrain is mountainous, road signage can be confusing (especially if you don't read Cyrillic), and public transport to scenic or rural areas is sparse. While renting a car and driving yourself is an option, it's not always ideal due to narrow roads, varying road conditions, and unpredictable weather in high-altitude areas. A private driver offers a reliable and comfortable alternative. You get the convenience of a personal vehicle and the local expertise of someone who knows the roads, culture, and language. Many private drivers are also happy to act as informal guides, pointing out sites you wouldn't find on your own and helping you make the most of your trip. Let's take a look at some of the most scenic and culturally rich travel routes in Kyrgyzstan that are best experienced with a private driver starting from Bishkek. Distance : ~250 km : ~250 km Travel Time: 4-5 hours This is one of the most popular routes in the country, and for good reason. Issyk Kul is a stunning alpine lake surrounded by the Tien Shan mountains. The northern route passes through towns like Tokmok and Cholpon Ata, offering great spots for history and leisure. Burana Tower : A historic minaret from the Silk Road era. : A historic minaret from the Silk Road era. Cholpon Ata Petroglyphs : Open-air rock carvings dating back to the Bronze Age. : Open-air rock carvings dating back to the Bronze Age. Resort beaches: Perfect for a summer swim or boat ride. With a private driver, you can stop at your leisure, avoid crowded marshrutkas (minibuses), and perhaps even detour into nearby valleys like Chon-Kemin or Grigorievka. Distance : ~400 km : ~400 km Travel Time: 6-8 hours with stops Karakol is the gateway to the eastern mountains, famous for trekking, skiing, and hot springs. The southern route to Karakol is less traveled but offers extraordinary scenery. Fairy Tale Canyon (Skazka) : Surreal red rock formations shaped by wind and time. : Surreal red rock formations shaped by wind and time. Barskoon Waterfall : A peaceful stop for a short hike. : A peaceful stop for a short hike. Jeti-Ögüz Gorge: Known for its red rock formations like the 'Seven Bulls' and 'Broken Heart.' Your driver can help you time visits to avoid crowds and even assist with finding yurt stays or guesthouses along the way. Distance : ~300 km : ~300 km Travel Time: 6-7 hours This route takes you deep into the heart of Kyrgyzstan's nomadic culture. Song Kul is a high-altitude lake (over 3,000 meters) surrounded by vast summer pastures. Overnight in a yurt : Experience life like a nomad. : Experience life like a nomad. Horseback riding : Popular in the area. : Popular in the area. Stunning sunrises: A photographer's dream. Roads to Song Kul are rough and often require 4×4 vehicles, especially in spring and early summer. A private driver ensures safe and steady travel and can help coordinate your lodging with local families. Distance : ~700 km : ~700 km Travel Time: 12–14 hours (best broken over two days) This is one of Kyrgyzstan's most epic drives, cutting through the central Tien Shan mountains and descending into the Fergana Valley. Too-Ashuu Pass : A dramatic mountain pass with panoramic views. : A dramatic mountain pass with panoramic views. Toktogul Reservoir : A turquoise lake perfect for photo stops. : A turquoise lake perfect for photo stops. Local villages: Get a real feel for rural life in Kyrgyzstan. Due to the route's complexity, hiring a driver is almost essential — especially one familiar with mountain conditions and variable weather. Distance : ~800–900 km : ~800–900 km Travel Time: 2–3 days recommended This western route brings you into lush walnut forests, lakes, and agricultural areas rich in flora and fauna. Arslanbob : Home to the largest natural walnut forest in the world. : Home to the largest natural walnut forest in the world. Sary-Chelek Biosphere Reserve: A serene lake surrounded by protected forests and mountains. A driver can help arrange accommodations in remote villages and ensure you don't miss any key viewpoints or cultural experiences. Choosing to hire a driver with car in Bishkek comes with several perks: Stress-Free Navigation : Avoid getting lost or dealing with unfamiliar road conditions. : Avoid getting lost or dealing with unfamiliar road conditions. Local Knowledge : Gain insights on local history, customs, and cuisine. : Gain insights on local history, customs, and cuisine. Flexible Itineraries : Go at your own pace, with the freedom to stop and explore. : Go at your own pace, with the freedom to stop and explore. Safe Transport : Roads can be challenging, especially in rural and mountain regions; an experienced driver ensures a smoother journey. : Roads can be challenging, especially in rural and mountain regions; an experienced driver ensures a smoother journey. Help with Language: Many local drivers understand basic English and can translate when needed. When booking a driver, look for trusted companies with a proven track record. Doctour Kyrgyz is a highly recommended provider offering professional drivers, well-maintained vehicles, and flexible travel options. Whether you need a short transfer or a multi-day expedition, their services can be tailored to fit your needs. Kyrgyzstan is one of the few places in the world where adventure, nature, and culture blend so effortlessly — and the best way to see it all is by road. From emerald valleys and glacier-fed lakes to ancient Silk Road towns and nomadic traditions, there's something magical at every turn. Hiring a driver with car in Bishkek gives you the freedom to explore safely, comfortably, and meaningfully. It's not just about getting from point A to B — it's about the journey, the stories, and the people you meet along the way. So, if you're planning a trip to Kyrgyzstan, consider investing in the luxury of local knowledge and private mobility. The mountains are calling — and your driver is ready. TIME BUSINESS NEWS

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