From Bambangan to Bosou: Six Sabahan delicacies every food lover must try
As a land of breathtaking natural beauty and diverse cultures, Sabah offers an equally rich and varied culinary experience. Its traditional foods are a reflection of the many ethnic groups that call this Malaysian state home, each contributing unique ingredients, cooking methods, and flavours.
Exploring Sabah's traditional cuisine is a journey through its history and the vibrant tapestry of its people.
Traditional cuisines often tell a unique story about the culture they represent in a way that is more distinct than arts, crafts, or languages. One of the cornerstones of Sabahan traditional food is the use of fresh, local ingredients. Given its abundant rainforests, fertile plains, and extensive coastline, the cuisine frequently features jungle produce, freshwater fish, seafood, and a variety of locally grown vegetables and herbs.
Here are six traditional foods you should try when visiting Sabah:
Bambangan
Bambangan is a type of wild mango that comes with a distinct (not necessarily bad) smell. Unlike the normal mango, Bambangan has a thick brown skin. While it is delicious when ripe, Bambangan is normally harvested raw to be pickled using salt mixed with grated Bambangan seed and slices of chilli. Other than pickled, raw Bambangan can also be cooked with basung fish, as the Kadazandusun people of Sabah like to add a little bit of tang to their food.
Bambangan can be found at most tamu markets or vegetable markets. Pickled Bambangan pairs amazingly well with plain white rice and deep-fried fish, while sliced Bambangan with fish in clear soup is delicious to eat alone with white rice or accompanied by a dash of sambal. Want to know the best way to enjoy? Eat with your hands!
Pinasakan sada using basung fish.
Pinasakan
Pinasakan sada, or sometimes known simply as Pinasakan, is a traditional Kadazandusun dish of braised basung fish mixed with takob akob (a tangy wild fruit mainly harvested for its skin), fresh turmeric, salt and slices of Bambangan (optional). Pinasakan is another type of preserved food and is good to be eaten without heating for days.
You can find Pinasakan at most traditional cuisine restaurants; otherwise, preparing it is very easy as well.
All you need to do is to braise the basung fish together with all ingredients and boil until the broth reduces to half the original volume (pasakan means cooking with very little water). Pinasakan goes well with white rice or ambuyat and a dash of sambal.
Ambuyat
Ambuyat is a traditional Bruneian dish that is derived from the interior trunk of the sago palm. On its own, the Ambuyat is simply a bland starchy blob which is similar to the tapioca starch, but it goes well when eaten with a tangy, spicy or salty accompanying dish such as the Pinasakan and Bambangan.
Ambuyat is prepared by mixing the sago starch powder with boiling water. As the sago starts to coagulate, use a pair of bamboo forks or wooden chopsticks to roll the starch around the prongs, dip into the accompanying dish and munch. Voila!
Hinava — one of the most iconic traditional foods of Sabah.
Hinava
Hinava is most probably the most well-known traditional dish in Sabah. Popularised by the Kadazandusun community, Hinava is made of fresh raw tenggiri (mackerel fish), which is filleted and thinly sliced; mixed with sliced chilli, ginger, diced red onions, grated Bambangan seed, salt and set with a few squirts of lime juice. Sometimes, slices of raw bitter gourd are also added.
If you don't like fish, you can also substitute the mackerel with either prawn or squid. Hinava can be found in most traditional Kadazandusun restaurants, but of late, it has also been making its way to hotel buffet tables or served during special events and functions. Have it with white rice or on its own as a salad dish.
Tuhau
Most people, even locals, would have a love-hate relationship with the Tuhau due to its distinct pungent smell, which is not unlike that of a stink bug. However, once you've tried it, you may easily overlook its unpleasant smell.
Originating from the interior parts of Sabah (Tambunan, Keningau and Ranau), Tuhau is made of a type of wild ginger that is thinly diced, mixed with diced chilli and diced scallions, and pickled using salt and vinegar. Tuhau makes a great accompanying dish for anything and everything. You can find it at tamu markets or the vegetable markets all across Sabah.
Nonsom / Bosou
Another popular traditional Kadazandusun preserved dish is the Nonsom, or sometimes known as Bosou. It is made using raw freshwater fish (Nonsom Sada) or wild boar meat mixed (Nonsom Bakas) with rice and pickled using salt and pangi (a type of local herb). After the mixing, the mixture is stored in a glass jar and marinated for two weeks.
Like most preserved traditional food, the Nonsom/Bosou is salty and tangy in flavour. It goes well with white rice or even fried beehoon. For a nicer aroma, sauté the Nonsom/Bosou together with diced garlic, a dash of pepper and olive oil — marvellous!
A traditional food enjoyed at Little Sulap Restaurant.
A personal treasure
As a Sabahan who grew up living with my grandparents, I remember always enjoying homemade Bambangan, which were harvested from my grandparents' orchard in Kampung Kituau, Penampang.
Sometimes, when the harvest was more bountiful and they felt a bit richer, my grandmother would also make Nonsom Bakas — and I remember trying hard to make this stretch for as long as possible, as any kind of meat dish was hard to come by during those days.
I will make it my lifetime mission to learn how to make these traditional dishes — and make them well — if only so that I can pass the knowledge to the next generation.
In the bigger picture, Sabah's traditional food scene is a testament to its cultural diversity and the ingenuity of its people in utilising the bounties of their land and sea. Each dish tells a story of heritage, adaptation, and a deep connection to nature. For any visitor to Sabah, venturing beyond the well-trodden tourist paths to savour these authentic flavours is an essential part of understanding and appreciating the true essence of this enchanting Bornean state.
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As a land of breathtaking natural beauty and diverse cultures, Sabah offers an equally rich and varied culinary experience. Its traditional foods are a reflection of the many ethnic groups that call this Malaysian state home, each contributing unique ingredients, cooking methods, and flavours. Exploring Sabah's traditional cuisine is a journey through its history and the vibrant tapestry of its people. Traditional cuisines often tell a unique story about the culture they represent in a way that is more distinct than arts, crafts, or languages. One of the cornerstones of Sabahan traditional food is the use of fresh, local ingredients. Given its abundant rainforests, fertile plains, and extensive coastline, the cuisine frequently features jungle produce, freshwater fish, seafood, and a variety of locally grown vegetables and herbs. 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