DWTNR's brunch doesn't quite deliver for Arrive
Apr. 21—I remember excitedly walking through Downtown in the waning summer days as construction crews remodeled the former Hotel Blue into a boutique hotel called Arrive.
Arrive and its restaurant DWTNR opened in late February, offering the latest glimmer of hope for Albuquerque redeveloping its urban core. Neighboring Ex Novo Brewing Company and Sammy's Cafe & Deli opened in the fall of 2024 and have quickly become a talking point of those enthusiastic about the area's potential.
Upon my arrival at DWTNR, I was greeted with a retro themed hotel lobby and dining room that echoed those lining the streets of up-and-coming neighborhoods in Austin, Texas, Nashville, Tennessee, and Kansas City, Missouri.
DWTNR's space has all the makings of a trendy summer brunch spot: a row of cactuses splitting the mid-century themed space, burgundy checkered booths and luxurious leather bar seats.
But with established brunch spots like Tia B's La Wafflería, The Farmacy and The Grove Cafe & Market all within a 4-mile radius, DWNTR has stiff competition. And it can't bank on aesthetics and atmosphere alone.
What the kitchen has going for it is its bread program, the House Tea Cake ($7) for example, features local in-season produce in a light perfectly baked miniature loaf.
And the Churro French Toast ($14) is the star of the breakfast menu. A fluffy, airy centerpiece bread baked in house is complemented by cinnamon, Mexican chocolate and vanilla bean ice cream.
While it sounds like enough sugar to keep a toddler hyper and awake for days on end, the dish is not over the top on sweetness and offers an array of complementary flavors — unlike its menu counterpart, Avocado Toast ($14).
The dish isn't your average millennial's avocado toast, featuring the full ends of the sweet to savory spectrum: house marmalade, creme fraiche, chile crunch and an optional egg.
It's creative and ambitious, but it doesn't deliver.
The yolk of the overcooked egg dampens the toast, the mix of marmalade and chile crunch provides a harsh mix of bitter and sweet.
While I am not one to order classic breakfast at brunch restaurants — especially when it costs north of $10 — I gave the Traditional Breakfast ($17) a try which features two pieces of toast, two eggs, bacon and a hash brown.
The eggs I ordered were cooked perfectly but lacked any tinge of seasoning and tabletop salt was nowhere to be found. The bacon, while thick and chewy, lacked in flavor, and the toast was nothing to write home — or in the Journal — about.
If there is a bright spot on the plate, it is the hash browns. Well cooked, flaky and crispy on the outside. However, I'd recommend the Hash Brown Chilaquiles ($13) that offer a creative take on the traditional Mexican breakfast.
As you dig in the fried egg falls perfectly on top of the chunky hash brown paired with the carrot salsa and cotija that provide a nice subtle kick of spice which you can tamper down with the fresh cilantro garnish generously sprinkled around the plate.
The drink program the restaurant offers is stellar, using coffee from local roastery Slow Burn, even a staunch black coffee drinker like myself enjoyed the Cowboy Brew ($6) that features dark salted caramel, cold brew and chile vanilla bean cream.
And for those who enjoy a non-coffee boost, the Prickly Matcha ($6) that features prickly pear, ginger beer and matcha — of course — is a selection that, like the restaurant, is aesthetically appealing.
Want to get the party started early with friends? On vacation? You're covered as well. The menu features eight craft cocktails all of which ring in at $15, a selection of sparkling, white, rose, orange and red wines ($13-16) and while the taps are slim picking for craft beer drinkers there are three local draft options ($7) or a Miller High Life ($5).
All in all, DWTNR offers a great space for summer hangouts, located poolside with a stunning view of Downtown it feels a natural spot for locals and visitors alike to gather.
But to draw a weekend crowd, the execution from the kitchen must improve.
Noah Alcala Bach covers education. You can reach him at nabach@abqjournal.com or 505-823-3864.
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