Inside Dinner by Heston Dubai with Chef Chris Malone

Chris Malone honours heritage and elevates the everyday at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal Dubai. Tell us about your journey into the culinary world – when did you know you wanted to be a chef?
I was young, around five or six years old, when I first realised, I wanted to be a chef. We would visit my grandparents most Sundays, and the table would always have a spread of wholesome food, with everyone gathered around it, connecting and smiling. There was an immediate connection between me and food from that point. I was so interested; it sparked a creative environment for whoever was cooking, and I became intrigued, especially by the creative side. I convinced myself that all I wanted to be was a chef, and it stuck with me. I was certain that as soon as I graduated high school, I would find a way into a kitchen and become a chef. As soon as I graduated, I began my career at 15 with a four-year apprenticeship at Fraser's in Kings Park, Perth. By the time I reached the age of 21, I was already being recognised by the industry, which was an amazing moment. In 2017, I was named Australian Chef of the Year. After spending time in some of the most incredible restaurants in Western Australia, chef Daniel Humm invited me to join him and the team at the three-Michelin-starred Eleven Madison Park in New York. From there, I continued to push my own limits and journeyed to London to join Daniel's next venture, the Michelin-starred Davies and Brook at Claridge's, after which I secured an opportunity at a new luxury hotel chain, NoMad. After I worked on the launch of NoMad, I took the leap to come to Dubai, where I have been at the helm of Ossiano, supported the pre-opening and opening of Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, as well as FZN by Björn Frantzén. What drew you to say yes to Dinner by Heston's Dubai chapter?
Heston Blumenthal has always been an influential and inspirational figure throughout my culinary journey-starting from the early days when I began working as a chef in 2010, if not earlier. At the time, Heston was on MasterChef Australia, The Fat Duck was in its absolute prime, and his molecular gastronomy was everywhere. His impact and what he was doing played a big role in my journey as a young chef. So when the opportunity came up for Dinner by Heston Blumenthal in Dubai, I thought-absolutely. To join Heston would be an incredible opportunity. How do you lead in a high-pressure, Michelin-starred kitchen?
Stay calm, lead by example, teach and inspire. In some Michelin-starred kitchens, there's incredibly high pressure to maintain the standard and attention to detail – but I don't believe that's the only way to lead. Having learned this first-hand, I've always found that you get the most out of your team, and achieve more, by respecting, empowering, and nurturing them – always leading with graciousness. I aim to foster a truly empowering kitchen environment; I'm incredibly passionate about the next generation of chefs and want to see them rise, grow, develop, and succeed. To sum it up, my leadership ethos is: gentle pressure. What defines your style on the plate – is there a signature you're known for?
In three words, when it comes to flavour: fresh, vibrant, and acidic. I also believe that you should let beautiful ingredients speak for themselves and allow the product to shine on the plate. To make this happen, it's important to invest in using the best seasonal ingredients. At Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, we source and select the finest products we can – and do as little to them as possible – to truly let the ingredients shine. What's been the biggest surprise about Dubai's dining scene?
Over the past four years, it has been incredible to witness how the dining scene has grown – both dynamically and organically. There's been a noticeable shift, with a rise in homegrown concepts that are championing creativity. This, combined with the arrival of global names, has attracted talented chefs from all over the world who want to be part of the movement. What these chefs are creating and putting on plates is simply incredible. What's the most theatrical dish you've ever worked on?
The one-bite Aerated Beetroot, which disappears in a split second, is a creation from The Fat Duck menu – and it takes three days to make. To begin, we take baby beetroot, juice it (as the sugar content is higher and the flavour less earthy), and then reduce it. We use a kitchen-use rotovap – a high-tech piece of equipment that looks like it belongs in a laboratory. It's essentially a water bath set to 30 degrees. There's a glass sphere into which we pour the beetroot juice; the device pressurises and spins the liquid, allowing us to lower its boiling point. We then whip the juice into a meringue, which is piped and dehydrated. The final result resembles a small aero ball – crispy and delicate – filled with horseradish cream and served in a single bite. What's the one rule you always follow in the kitchen – no matter where you are in the world?
Taste everything. This is absolutely crucial – especially when you're stepping up in a Michelin kitchen and working within larger brigades. You need to ensure consistency in every aspect; for example, when an ingredient is being reduced, you need to taste it to ensure the salt level hasn't intensified. At Dinner , we're constantly tasting. Before every service, the whole team is involved in a full tasting of everything on the menu. What keeps you inspired beyond the kitchen?
Running and travelling are things I turn to in order to stay inspired – exploring different cities and cultures, and trying new food. I try to travel as much as I can to experience the world beyond the kitchen. I also run quite a lot; it's the perfect way to stay fit and healthy, while providing mental clarity amidst the stresses of day-to-day life. What's next for you – are there any new dishes or ideas you're excited to bring to Dinner by Heston?
We are currently celebrating 30 Years of the Fat Duck, and to pay homage to the restaurant we are featuring a different creation from The Fat Duck each month as part of our tasting menu until August. Culinary highlights include the Turbot Veronique (c. 2005) which is on the menu until 19th May, it pairs Muscat grapes, mussels and parsley. Another standout worth mentioning is The Alfonso Mango (c. 2001), a distinctive dish that combines pine nuts and mango stems, this showcases Heston's exploration of molecular gastronomy, this dish will be available exclusively in May. In July we will be unveiling the Scallop, White Chocolate, and Caviar (c. 2024) which is a bold and uncommon flavour pairing, guests should be excited about this one. Looking at the bigger picture, I'm looking to refine the entire guest experience, beyond the kitchen, from efficiency to the food development. I am working extremely closely with James 'Jocky' Petrie, Group Culinary Director of The Fat Duck Group to provide insight on how we can make Dinner by Heston Dubai a different experience to the one in London, by using our creativity with produce whilst aligning with the DNA of dinner. – For more on luxury lifestyle, news, fashion and beauty follow Emirates Woman on Facebook and Instagram
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