On board the world's most luxurious new train
An ambitious programme of eight one and two-night itineraries covering 14 Italian regions has been devised, most starting and ending in Rome and the most elaborate entailing a transfer of the train across the Straits of Messina on a privately chartered vessel to Sicily for visits to Taormina and Palermo.
Some thought two nights was the right duration, others wanted longer, but all agreed that more time at our destinations would have been welcomed, and that will be reflected in tweaks to tours.
As invariably happens on hotel trains, guests from half a dozen countries soon bonded in the lounge car, where the bar and piano were placed between an area of sinuous banquettes and seats arranged in twos and fours. The youngest in the surprisingly wide age range were a couple from South Korea, evidently on their honeymoon.
Other passengers included an investor who had been successful enough to retire early and become a professional bridge player, and a couple from Delhi in the legal profession. Most of us matched the glad rags of the pianist, saxophonist and singer entertaining us after dinner.
The near extinction of proper dining cars on so many railways has increased the pleasure of eating in one, and we began lunch to views over a glittering bay to the island of Napoleon's first incarceration, Elba.
Our creative and high-quality six-course tasting menu with paired wines was created by Heinz Beck, who runs Rome's only three-Michelin-star restaurant, and produced by one of his protégés, Walter Canzio.
The train stops for four or five hours every night, and over breakfast it was evident that the world divides into those who can sleep on moving trains, and those who can't – however comfortable the bed.
Italy had the wit to retain many of its cross-country railway lines, which often venture into its equivalent of la France profonde, so it was a pleasure to reach Siena by the single-line route from Montepescali through remote countryside.
Between woods, an avenue of slender cypresses led to a characteristic Tuscan farmhouse with arcaded veranda on the upper level, surrounded by fields of artichokes, vines and apple orchards.
On distant hilltops, a jumble of pale brown houses rising above wooded slopes recalled a turbulent past, when villages were safer on high ground.
Another form of endemic rivalry was the subject of our visit by minibus to meet the winning jockey of last year's Palio at his stables and training fields just outside Siena.
Remarkably self-effacing for the man who had become the city's hero until the next Palio, Dino Pes took us through the Byzantine rules that govern the world's oldest horse race and the highlight of the Siena calendar since 1283.
So fierce is the rivalry between the contrada, neighbourhoods traceable back to medieval guilds, that he has to be protected against malfeasance by four bodyguards from the moment he is selected until he enters the bareback race around the Campo. The three circuits took him just 75 seconds.
Before lunch in the kind of unpretentious restaurant that Italy does so well, we had time to admire the jewel in the city's glorious Gothic cathedral, the Carrara marble pulpit sculpted in the 1260s by Giovanni Pisano, with its seven narrative panels of Christ's life and a cast of almost 400 figures.
He also sculpted the statues encrusting the lavish facade, which still looks astonishingly crisp and unweathered.
Because the train has to dovetail with passenger and freight trains or replenish water tanks, there are occasional longueurs in stations, but that is all part of slow travel.
The train never exceeds 120 km/h, and – unlike on high-speed services – this lack of velocity makes it possible to actually admire the landscapes. As we headed back to Rome, morning mist was rising over the broad plain flanking the Tavere river.
A long double avenue of umbrella pines shading a farm track spoke of the forethought of past generations. We skirted the lagoons enclosed by the peninsula of Monte Argentario, where the rackety life of Caravaggio came to an end in 1610, and as we approached Ostiense station, a large section of the Roman walls still stands beside the line.
All this luxury and exclusive access comes with a steep price tag, of course: a single-night itinerary costs from $5480 per person. But strong forward bookings suggest there is healthy demand for this sort of five-star experience, and I was told some celebrities have booked the whole train.
Arsenale certainly expects it to continue – a second train will be finished later this year, intended for a Rome to Istanbul journey, among others, and it is building a train for Saudi Arabia with plans for others in Egypt, UAE and Uzbekistan. The sweet life is going global, for those who can afford it.
Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles
Sky News AU
20 hours ago
- Sky News AU
Simon Baker shocks as the Aussie actor attends major film festival in open-toe Birkenstocks
Simon Baker has popped up in Italy, where he attended an exclusive media event looking every part the quintessential casual Australian. The Aussie A-lister attended the Filming Italy Sardegna Festival at Forte Village in Cagliari, Sardinia alongside other Hollywood Talent on Thursday. The film and television event, now in its 8th edition, will present more than 70 films, which are either Italian or world premieres, until Sunday, with the aim of spotlighting Italian and international cinema and supporting talent. Baker is set to receive the Filming Italy Excellence Award. The 55-year-old looked dapper as posed with the festival's General Director, Tiziana Rocca, and Twilight star, actress Ashley Greene. Baker donned his signature glasses, which he paired with a pair of jeans, a belt, and a light-coloured shirt with the sleeves rolled up to his elbows. However, it was the Boy Swallows Universe star's choice of footwear that baffled fans. Baker opted for a pair of moss-green Birkenstock slides instead of dress shoes for the occasion. The actor proudly paraded his unique style as Tiziana stood beside him and pointed to the famed Australian. A close-up shot of his shoes showed that they appeared slightly worse for wear but were still in good condition. "I love his simplicity," one fan wrote on Instagram. "He looks great," another person said. Baker traded the Hollywood lights for a country getaway in the Northern Rivers region of New South Wales, near where he grew up, in 2016. The laid-back celebrity in April championed the "beautiful frankness" of Down Under after having immersed himself in many parts of the world. "Once you start to assimilate back into our culture, you also realise there's a beautiful frankness to Australians that is priceless," he told Esquire Australia. "There's no flowery way of putting things; it's just direct. "And that level of authenticity is grounding. It's like a cosy blanket. It's very comfortable and familiar for me." The actor, who rose to fame as consultant Patrick Jane in The Mentalist from 2008 to 2015, broke his silence in April on the status of The Devil Wears Prada 2 and whether he'll reprise his role in the upcoming sequel. Baker played the elusive Christian Thompson in the 2006 hit and revealed to he's unlikely to make a comeback. "I haven't got the call up yet," he said. "So I don't know- probably not, no." It comes as there has been no word on whether Anne Hathaway's character, Andy Sachs, will return ahead of the sequel next May. The follow-up is expected to explore Miranda Priestly (played by Meryl Streep) grappling with the decline of the magazine industry while former assistant Emily Charlton (Emily Blunt) returns for a dramatic showdown.
The Age
a day ago
- The Age
Your questions: How should I spend three weeks in Europe?
My mum and I are vision-impaired and after a trip to Germany, Austria and Italy's Ferrara last year, we would love to do another Europe trip in September. We are thinking of returning to Italy, and we wondered about Naples or southern Italy, otherwise Croatia/Adriatic coast or Belgium. What can you suggest for a three-week stay, potentially staying in three different locations? H. Schedlich, Moonee Ponds, Vic The cities of Ghent and Bruges in Belgium are world-class wonders, and you also have easy access to Amsterdam. Most travellers go to Croatia and the Adriatic for the beaches but since you've fallen under the spell of Italy, why not indulge yourselves? Loading Appealing as it is, Ferrara and the rest of Emilia Romagna is only one part of the Italian mosaic. Southern Italy might as well be another country. You could start in Rome and take the fast train to Naples and spend at least five days there, visiting the archaeological museum, the churches, and don't miss San Gennaro, Pompeii, taking the ferry to Capri and Ischia and sampling pizza in the city that invented it. Also enjoy sfogliatella pastries and seafood dishes at the outdoor restaurants along Vico Lungo del Gelso. I've stayed at Foro Carolino right on Piazza Dante and it's a great choice. Next, take the train to Ostuni, in Puglia. Capping a hilltop above gnarled olive trees on the plain below, Ostuni is the largest of the so-called 'white cities' of the Itria Valley, its knotted alleyways curling beneath wrought-iron balconies. From here you can take guided tours to experience Alberobello and the other white cities of the Valle d'Itria, the city of Lecce and sample the distinct cuisine of this charismatic corner of Italy. Spend about five nights then take the bus to Bari Airport and fly to Catania in Sicily, Ryanair has daily non-stop flights. Take a bus or taxi south to Ortigia, the island at the southern end of Syracuse. Make it your base for the rest of the time you have available. From here you can make day trips to visit Noto, Ragusa, Modica and Taormina. Allow yourself time to relax in Ortigia, the Piazza del Duomo is one of the finest squares in all of Italy, ringed by baroque facades cast from the same bleached limestone. It feels like an opera set, best seen from Bar Condorelli, source of Italy's famous Condorelli torrone, but you're really here for minne di Sant'Agata, ricotta-filled pastries encased in marzipan and topped with a cherry. We will be in South Africa next year and would like to do a road trip in another country afterwards. Can you suggest somewhere that's safe and well-suited to a family trip? We previously did something similar in Namibia and it was fantastic. S. Bolitho, Brunswick, Vic Botswana would be my No. 1 choice, and a camping road trip is a popular, rewarding way to experience the wilderness and wildlife of this incredible southern African country. It is also safe, provided you follow a few basic rules. Bear in mind that most campsites in Botswana's national parks and reserves are unfenced, allowing wildlife to wander through. Watch out for baboons, they're criminals. This style of trip is also cost-effective compared to a stay in Botswana's wilderness lodges, where even a basic tented room starts at around $US1000 a night for two.
Sydney Morning Herald
a day ago
- Sydney Morning Herald
Your questions: How should I spend three weeks in Europe?
My mum and I are vision-impaired and after a trip to Germany, Austria and Italy's Ferrara last year, we would love to do another Europe trip in September. We are thinking of returning to Italy, and we wondered about Naples or southern Italy, otherwise Croatia/Adriatic coast or Belgium. What can you suggest for a three-week stay, potentially staying in three different locations? H. Schedlich, Moonee Ponds, Vic The cities of Ghent and Bruges in Belgium are world-class wonders, and you also have easy access to Amsterdam. Most travellers go to Croatia and the Adriatic for the beaches but since you've fallen under the spell of Italy, why not indulge yourselves? Loading Appealing as it is, Ferrara and the rest of Emilia Romagna is only one part of the Italian mosaic. Southern Italy might as well be another country. You could start in Rome and take the fast train to Naples and spend at least five days there, visiting the archaeological museum, the churches, and don't miss San Gennaro, Pompeii, taking the ferry to Capri and Ischia and sampling pizza in the city that invented it. Also enjoy sfogliatella pastries and seafood dishes at the outdoor restaurants along Vico Lungo del Gelso. I've stayed at Foro Carolino right on Piazza Dante and it's a great choice. Next, take the train to Ostuni, in Puglia. Capping a hilltop above gnarled olive trees on the plain below, Ostuni is the largest of the so-called 'white cities' of the Itria Valley, its knotted alleyways curling beneath wrought-iron balconies. From here you can take guided tours to experience Alberobello and the other white cities of the Valle d'Itria, the city of Lecce and sample the distinct cuisine of this charismatic corner of Italy. Spend about five nights then take the bus to Bari Airport and fly to Catania in Sicily, Ryanair has daily non-stop flights. Take a bus or taxi south to Ortigia, the island at the southern end of Syracuse. Make it your base for the rest of the time you have available. From here you can make day trips to visit Noto, Ragusa, Modica and Taormina. Allow yourself time to relax in Ortigia, the Piazza del Duomo is one of the finest squares in all of Italy, ringed by baroque facades cast from the same bleached limestone. It feels like an opera set, best seen from Bar Condorelli, source of Italy's famous Condorelli torrone, but you're really here for minne di Sant'Agata, ricotta-filled pastries encased in marzipan and topped with a cherry. We will be in South Africa next year and would like to do a road trip in another country afterwards. Can you suggest somewhere that's safe and well-suited to a family trip? We previously did something similar in Namibia and it was fantastic. S. Bolitho, Brunswick, Vic Botswana would be my No. 1 choice, and a camping road trip is a popular, rewarding way to experience the wilderness and wildlife of this incredible southern African country. It is also safe, provided you follow a few basic rules. Bear in mind that most campsites in Botswana's national parks and reserves are unfenced, allowing wildlife to wander through. Watch out for baboons, they're criminals. This style of trip is also cost-effective compared to a stay in Botswana's wilderness lodges, where even a basic tented room starts at around $US1000 a night for two.
