Six years on from that Zara dress, polka dots are back on trend
Transport yourself back to the summer of 2019, and picture the following scene: it's morning rush hour on the train platform. The temperature is a balmy 23 degrees. Around you, commuters are preparing for a day in the office and, by some bizarre twist of fashion fate, they're all wearing the same thing: a £39.99 Zara midi dress, white with black polka-dots.
For months that year, it seemed as if 'The Dress' (as it became known) was inescapable, popping up not just at work but at summer barbecues, on nights out, in the aisles of Tesco and even on the telly, thanks to BBC presenter Victoria Derbyshire. Wherever you looked, everyone was hot for spots.
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Every bubble must burst, however, and soon polka-dots began to feel tired – less Julia Roberts in Pretty Woman, more high street sale rail. Since then, the print has fallen out of favour, readily replaced first by a flurry of florals and now by a succession of on-trend block colours, from mocha and dove grey, to this spring's must-have butter yellow. It seemed as if polka-dots had been retired by most of us for good – until the Princess of Wales reintroduced them in a way that felt enticingly fresh once more.
For the recent Thanksgiving service to commemorate the 80th anniversary of VE Day, Catherine pulled an old favourite from the back of her wardrobe: an Alessandra Rich polka-dot midi dress, which she last wore in 2023. Her appearance followed hot on the heels of fashion's biggest night out, the Met Gala, at which actress Priyanka Chopra stole the show in a slickly tailored, custom polka-dot gown by Balmain. Elegant, understated and with a touch of whimsy – suddenly, spots look right again.
'They have an enduring charm that sets them apart from other patterns like florals and stripes,' says Orlagh McCloskey, co-founder of Rixo. 'There's a classic quality to them – think Jane Birkin's printed ties and the outfits of old Hollywood stars like Marilyn Monroe and Audrey Hepburn.' Kay Barron, fashion director at Net-a-Porter, also cites Kate's late mother-in-law as a key reference: 'Princess Diana was known for her iconic polka-dot looks – the two that stand out to me are the blue-and-red dress she wore to the Othello premiere in 1986, and the navy-and-white look she wore to Ascot in 1988, complete with a matching hat.'
Whoever you choose as your inspiration, the real beauty of a dotty print lies in how easy it is to style. Team Rixo's cotton Eleanor dress with white heels and a matching clutch and you're good to go for any event. Follow Catherine's lead with The Kooples' floaty shirt dress – a clear winner for the Chelsea Flower Show, Royal Ascot or a smart summer party. Take a leaf from the Princess' book and pair it with all-black accessories.
Barron suggests styling polka-dots with another, contrasting pattern for a modern update on the look. 'For spring/summer 2025, Acne Studios really stood out for showcasing polka-dots on the runway, especially skirts paired with clashing prints,' she says. Try Me+Em's maxi dress with Reformation's leopard print 'Winnie' mules for a contemporary take on siren style.
Silk Polka Dot Maxi Dress + Corsage, £595, Me+Em
One important consideration with polka-dots is their size. As McCloskey explains, 'smaller dots add a delicate, subtle charm to designs, perfect for a more refined look,' while larger prints 'make a bold statement that can turn a simple outfit into a standout one'. For example, French Connection's strappy frock looks plucked straight from the cupboard of Betty Draper, while Sézane's 'Rosie' dress is more statement-making – try it with a pair of sculptural earrings, like the 'Flower Bud' design from YSSO.
After several years of skulking behind the scenes, monochrome polka-dots are ready to take centre stage once again. 'While they bring a sense of fun and playfulness to an outfit, there's still something so timeless about them,' explains Barron. And honestly? She's spot on.
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