For the ultimate Galapagos expedition join a luxe safari ship
There comes a time for a SKI trip (Spending the Kids' Inheritance, that is). Because for some destinations, if you're going to go, you should do it well. It's true for African safaris, and it's certainly the case if you're considering exploring the time-locked archipelago of the Galapagos.
9 The Galapagos' baddest, sexiest ship is also a tender lover.
Bruno Camozzato
These small equatorial volcanic islands, 560 miles off the coast of Ecuador, leaped from obscurity in 1835, thanks to Charles Darwin.
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While on a world trip as a surveyor, he stopped off to take a look at the active volcanos, but instead noted the unique adaptations of the local wildlife to the harsh environment — most notably the finches, of which there are 13 endemic varieties (including the vampire finch, which does what it claims).
His observations prompted him to develop the theory of evolution, as outlined in his 1859 book 'On the Origin of Species.'
Of the 9,000 species here, many are unique to the Galapagos. Fauna consists of fish, birds and reptiles — like the islands' famous giant tortoises; there are no land mammals. Thanks to glossy wildlife programs, there's an appetite to see this unique place and assume a David Attenborough pose while watching blue-footed boobies (now the emblem of the Galapagos) do their crazy dance, or frigate birds blow up their throats like big red balloons, or marine iguanas shoot salt out of their noses.
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9 Hobnob with the islands' famous giant tortoises.
Aqua Mare
You'll need to go by sea, of course, and small ship adventure tours offer a plethora of choices. But to really go in style, step off the plane in Baltra (two hours from the Ecuador mainland) and ignore the cruise ships, instead stepping aboard the only beautiful, bespoke, Italian luxury superyacht you'll see bobbing in the bay: the Aqua Mare.
Aqua Mare is part of the Aqua Expeditions fleet, a specialist small ship cruise line offering personalized experiences in far-flung regions like the Amazon, Spice Islands and Vietnam. In fact, French luxury cruise company Ponant Expeditions recently acquired a majority share, with the ambition of launching more small ships in remote locales in the near future. (Seychelles and Tanzania are coming soon).
Aqua Mare will be our home for a week while we embark on what is less of a cruise and more of a luxury safari at sea, island hopping for over 300 miles around the eastern side of the Galapagos islands.
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9 Peep all the beautiful boobies.
Aqua Mare
With seven cabins, including an 871-square-foot owners' suite, there's a maximum of 16 guests, and a one-to-one ratio with the staff.
On board, the vibe is luxe with custom Zuretti interiors, carpets of beige wool (no shoes onboard) and glistening wood and brass trim. It's classically nautical with an Italian flair. Cabins are roomy and nicely appointed. Mine featured a panoramic window next to the bed to watch the world float by.
There are 10 of us on our journey, a continental selection of US, English, Scottish, Irish, South African and Brazilian travelers, which makes for entertaining conversation over meals, all taken together either on the sun deck, the back deck or the dining room. This is a great trip for a solo traveler and in our group there was plenty of bonhomie, while still allowing everyone their own personal space and time. (Cabins start at $10,920 for seven nights all inclusive, per person double occupancy, but solo discounts are also offered on select sailings).
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9 Cabins start at $10,920 for seven nights all inclusive, per person double occupancy.
Aqua Mare
Cruise director Wendy Piñeiros Pozo is hands-on at making sure all the groups on board gel. The trick, she said, is 'to be ahead of everything.' This wasn't lost on Daniel Ventin, 41, from Brazil, a repeat customer who previously traveled with Aqua Expeditions in Raja Ampat, Indonesia.
'It wasn't a surprise for me that the service, crew and ship were fantastic,' he said. 'Everyone had a big smile, trying to make the trip perfect and help you with whatever you needed.'
However, it was another onboard amenity that really stood out for Ventin.
'On Aqua Mare, the food and all service involving the catering was for sure one of the points I loved,' he said.
9 Onboard, Chef Adán Rodolfo Ríos García specializes in Nikkei (Japanese-Peruvian fusion) dishes.
Aqua Mare
Aqua Expeditions prides itself on providing authentic, chef-curated dining, and on Aqua Mare, it's all Nikkei-inspired — basically Japanese/Peruvian fusion.
Renowned Chef Pedro Miguel Schiaffino created the sustainable menus, and onboard, Chef Adán Rodolfo Ríos García takes it to the next level with fresh local seafood and organic Galapagos produce for sushi, build-your-own poke, or blended dishes like shrimp causa with white corn and, naturally, ceviche.
But, for all the highlights of life on board, of course you are here for the wildlife. There are no ports on the Galapagos Islands, which are part of Ecuador's Galápagos National Park and Marine Reserve, and tourism is strictly controlled. All excursions are via tender, and landings are strictly monitored and timed (don't be that person who always shows up late).
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9 Stay six feet away from creatures like this otherwise inviting iguana.
Aqua Mare
You must be accompanied by a licensed guide trained by the Galapagos National Park and the Charles Darwin Research Station on Santa Cruz. Stick to the trail, no touching anything, and stay six feet away from the wildlife, which is tricky because these animals are completely unfazed.
Having evolved without human hunters, you don't need to duck behind a blind to see the Nazca boobies with their fluffy chicks tucked under them.
Instead, you're stepping over their myriad nests that line the dirt track.
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9 Most guests aboard Aqua Mare come to snorkel or dive.
Aqua Mare
Each evening features a briefing on the next day's adventures, since each island brings a new set of things to see. Our enthusiastic guides, Federico Idrovo Bermeo and Isabela Bucheli Flor, are on board with us for the week and are encyclopedic in their knowledge of wildlife, geography and history of the area, and also have expert snorkeling and language skills.
There's lots (and lots) of snorkeling (and diving, should you wish to add it) which is other-worldly. In green season (December to May), the sea is warm and clear. Come the cool, dry season, wet suits are provided, but the bonus is that lower temps bring the orcas and whales.
We found ourselves swimming with little Galapagos penguins, as well as playful sea lion pups, especially in Bahía Gardner on Española, where a natural bay makes for a sea lion nursery. Our GoPro footage rivals 'Planet Earth.'
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9 The wine and dine on board is extra fine.
Aqua Mare
A stop in Santa Cruz, one of only two inhabited islands and the main concentration of the population (18,000), takes in a visit to the Charles Darwin Research Station to see their work preserving the legendary saddleback giant land tortoises. We also see them in the wild, strolling the lush acres of Rancho El Manzanillo, where we stop for a delicious lunch. This included some especially fine Ecuadorian rosé wine, which we had rather a lot of.
Afterwards, we took a stroll through the quaint waterfront town of Puerto Ayora, with its galleries, souvenir shops and, of note, Islander Coffee Roasters, serving home grown Galapagos coffee.
The liveliness of the town took us all by surprise.
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9 Don't miss a visit to the Charles Darwin Research Station.
'Prior to my trip, someone actually asked me if I was excited to see the culture,' said fellow passenger Newton Taluskie, 34, from Fort Myers, Fla. 'I told them that I didn't think that was even going to be an option since in my mind all the islands were uninhabited. But that small town of Puerto Ayora is full of life and community.'
It didn't go unnoticed that there was a karaoke bar there, too. Over dinner we put in a plea to Wendy to let us go back for some carousing. She consulted with our ever-smiling captain, Johnny Iturralde, who would have to put his foot down during the night to get us to our next location if we went off script. In the spirit of doing anything for the guests, they happily agree we can go ashore for an impromptu night out.
At 10 p.m., we head back to the dock where our tender is waiting for us. Our pilot, always with a sunny disposition, leads us in a rowdy version of 'Despacito' all the way back across the bay.
His name: Darwin. He's now the first Darwin I think of when I hear that name.
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