The wildlife secrets of Africa's ‘Galápagos Islands'
Our tender vessel bobbed gently towards the docking spot, and an unexpected frisson of excitement ran through the group as we noticed a group of TV cameramen, journalists and photographers assembled on the quayside.
On an island which, with its dual-nation counterpart, has only around 35,000 visitors annually, there was rising speculation that the media welcoming committee might be for us.
Fleeting red carpet thoughts were quickly, but charmingly, dashed as our waiting guide Paulo helped us up the stone steps to São Tomé harbour. 'Actually, they're waiting for the prime minister who is coming to look at a building project in the port,' he admitted. 'But I'm really looking forward to spending the day with you.'
As the booted and suited premier swept by, followed by his entourage, we walked in the opposite direction and boarded waiting minibuses.
The amusing misunderstanding was among many memorable cameos from our time on this tiny island in the Gulf of Guinea, 155 miles off the west coast of Africa.
São Tomé and Príncipe, 93 miles apart, make up the second-smallest and second-least populated African country after Seychelles; but it's likely everyone's heard of the latter.
Our minibus set off up the steep road towards the verdant cloak of tropical forests which cover a third of the island, while out at sea, our ship, Crystal Symphony, receded into the background.
With no direct flights from the UK, São Tomé is most easily reached via a cruise – yet only three or four small ships dock there each month.
Eleven days earlier, my multi-stop voyage had begun in Cape Town, pausing on the coasts of Angola, Benin and Ghana, with São Tomé marking the penultimate port of call. While these islands had admittedly never been on my radar, I was pleased to be able to tick off four new countries on a single cruise – a first for me.
Crystal is now owned by travel company Abercrombie Kent, and the two have combined their seafaring and land-based clout to offer thought-provoking, culture-rich sailings to destinations off the mainstream cruise charts.
The elegant, classic-style Crystal Symphony recently underwent a huge refurbishment, with enlarged suites reducing passenger capacity by almost 300.
As a result, the ship never felt crowded, and with restaurants including the only Nobu at sea, free-flowing drinks and incredibly attentive staff we were cosseted in luxury and comfort throughout our off-grid adventure.
With as many as eight excursions on offer each day, it was a sailing fraught with decisions. The majority of ports were out of town and primarily catered to muscular workhorse cargo vessels, creating something of a beauty and the beast scenario when the sleek thoroughbred Crystal Symphony glided alongside.
Shore tours (ranging from around £44 for a sightseeing drive around the Angolan capital, Luanda, to more than £500 for a small plane flight over the towering red sand dunes of the Namib Desert) are necessary to get the most out of the cruise.
All were excellent. There were wildlife encounters, including the incongruous sight of endearing African penguins waddling along the warm sands at Boulders Beach outside Cape Town, followed by hundreds of blubbery Cape fur seals basking on the shore and diving in the waters at Walvis Bay.
I was especially captivated by São Tomé, hugging the equator and, with its sister Principe, often described as the African Galapagos. Relative to their size, they have one of the most concentrated biological diversities on earth with hundreds of endemic plants, birds, reptiles, amphibians and butterflies, including the critically endangered grosbeak, the world's largest canary.
Five of the seven species of sea turtles breed on the pristine beaches and humpback whales can be spotted from July to October.
The impenetrable forests, home to much of the birdlife and flora, mean significant sightings are rare in the space of a few hours. However, there's still much to astonish curious visitors and nature lovers on an island just 30 miles long and 20 miles wide.
As our minibus slowed on the long pull up to Saint Nicholas Waterfall, brushing past giant yellow trumpet flowers, giggling youngsters waved and ran alongside.
One enterprising lad offered us a handful of jewel-bright freshly picked wild raspberries, while others cooled off in the cascade's crystal-clear waters.
A rustling in the trees and flashes of gleaming dark plumage heralded the arrival of bronze-naped pigeons, the island's national bird.
Back on the road, multi-tasking Paulo – also a school history teacher and taxi driver – explained how the islands, which gained independence in 1975, were uninhabited until the arrival of 15th century Portuguese navigators.
Sugar cane, later replaced by coffee and cacao plantations, flourished in the volcanic soil, although they were bitter harvests built on enslaved and child labour.
After sipping strong coffee at a former plantation, now a home-spun museum, we strolled through the charmingly faded colonial town of São Tomé to watch an energetic costumed dance, visit a chocolate shop and tour the squat fort topped by a lighthouse.
The rest of the cruise may have involved plenty of big-hitting sights and experiences, but it was the smallest island, which most people have never heard of, that left me with the greatest impression.
One day, I hope to return – and perhaps next time, I'll avoid being upstaged by the prime minister.
Essentials
Jeannine Williamson was a guest of Crystal Cruises, which has the 12-night all-inclusive cruise from Tema to Cape Town from £3,499 per person, including return flights from London, a one-night pre-cruise stay at Labadi Beach Hotel, Tema, airport transfers and gratuities. Departs December 11, 2025. Book through Mundy Cruising (020 7399 7670)
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Telegraph
8 hours ago
- Telegraph
The wildlife secrets of Africa's ‘Galápagos Islands'
Our tender vessel bobbed gently towards the docking spot, and an unexpected frisson of excitement ran through the group as we noticed a group of TV cameramen, journalists and photographers assembled on the quayside. On an island which, with its dual-nation counterpart, has only around 35,000 visitors annually, there was rising speculation that the media welcoming committee might be for us. Fleeting red carpet thoughts were quickly, but charmingly, dashed as our waiting guide Paulo helped us up the stone steps to São Tomé harbour. 'Actually, they're waiting for the prime minister who is coming to look at a building project in the port,' he admitted. 'But I'm really looking forward to spending the day with you.' As the booted and suited premier swept by, followed by his entourage, we walked in the opposite direction and boarded waiting minibuses. The amusing misunderstanding was among many memorable cameos from our time on this tiny island in the Gulf of Guinea, 155 miles off the west coast of Africa. São Tomé and Príncipe, 93 miles apart, make up the second-smallest and second-least populated African country after Seychelles; but it's likely everyone's heard of the latter. Our minibus set off up the steep road towards the verdant cloak of tropical forests which cover a third of the island, while out at sea, our ship, Crystal Symphony, receded into the background. With no direct flights from the UK, São Tomé is most easily reached via a cruise – yet only three or four small ships dock there each month. Eleven days earlier, my multi-stop voyage had begun in Cape Town, pausing on the coasts of Angola, Benin and Ghana, with São Tomé marking the penultimate port of call. While these islands had admittedly never been on my radar, I was pleased to be able to tick off four new countries on a single cruise – a first for me. Crystal is now owned by travel company Abercrombie Kent, and the two have combined their seafaring and land-based clout to offer thought-provoking, culture-rich sailings to destinations off the mainstream cruise charts. The elegant, classic-style Crystal Symphony recently underwent a huge refurbishment, with enlarged suites reducing passenger capacity by almost 300. As a result, the ship never felt crowded, and with restaurants including the only Nobu at sea, free-flowing drinks and incredibly attentive staff we were cosseted in luxury and comfort throughout our off-grid adventure. With as many as eight excursions on offer each day, it was a sailing fraught with decisions. The majority of ports were out of town and primarily catered to muscular workhorse cargo vessels, creating something of a beauty and the beast scenario when the sleek thoroughbred Crystal Symphony glided alongside. Shore tours (ranging from around £44 for a sightseeing drive around the Angolan capital, Luanda, to more than £500 for a small plane flight over the towering red sand dunes of the Namib Desert) are necessary to get the most out of the cruise. All were excellent. There were wildlife encounters, including the incongruous sight of endearing African penguins waddling along the warm sands at Boulders Beach outside Cape Town, followed by hundreds of blubbery Cape fur seals basking on the shore and diving in the waters at Walvis Bay. I was especially captivated by São Tomé, hugging the equator and, with its sister Principe, often described as the African Galapagos. Relative to their size, they have one of the most concentrated biological diversities on earth with hundreds of endemic plants, birds, reptiles, amphibians and butterflies, including the critically endangered grosbeak, the world's largest canary. Five of the seven species of sea turtles breed on the pristine beaches and humpback whales can be spotted from July to October. The impenetrable forests, home to much of the birdlife and flora, mean significant sightings are rare in the space of a few hours. However, there's still much to astonish curious visitors and nature lovers on an island just 30 miles long and 20 miles wide. As our minibus slowed on the long pull up to Saint Nicholas Waterfall, brushing past giant yellow trumpet flowers, giggling youngsters waved and ran alongside. One enterprising lad offered us a handful of jewel-bright freshly picked wild raspberries, while others cooled off in the cascade's crystal-clear waters. A rustling in the trees and flashes of gleaming dark plumage heralded the arrival of bronze-naped pigeons, the island's national bird. Back on the road, multi-tasking Paulo – also a school history teacher and taxi driver – explained how the islands, which gained independence in 1975, were uninhabited until the arrival of 15th century Portuguese navigators. Sugar cane, later replaced by coffee and cacao plantations, flourished in the volcanic soil, although they were bitter harvests built on enslaved and child labour. After sipping strong coffee at a former plantation, now a home-spun museum, we strolled through the charmingly faded colonial town of São Tomé to watch an energetic costumed dance, visit a chocolate shop and tour the squat fort topped by a lighthouse. The rest of the cruise may have involved plenty of big-hitting sights and experiences, but it was the smallest island, which most people have never heard of, that left me with the greatest impression. One day, I hope to return – and perhaps next time, I'll avoid being upstaged by the prime minister. Essentials Jeannine Williamson was a guest of Crystal Cruises, which has the 12-night all-inclusive cruise from Tema to Cape Town from £3,499 per person, including return flights from London, a one-night pre-cruise stay at Labadi Beach Hotel, Tema, airport transfers and gratuities. Departs December 11, 2025. Book through Mundy Cruising (020 7399 7670)
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