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Forbes
2 days ago
- Business
- Forbes
One Sonoma Winemaker's Passionate Pursuit Of Expressing Terroir In Wine
Does Hamel's Nun Canyon Vineyard have the terroir or not? JIMMY HAYES Walk into a vineyard and what do you see? Vines and soil, sun and sky—a snapshot of place, a moment in the vineyard's lifetime. The ecosystem here is influenced by a myriad of factors. Some work over eons—building the bedrock, for example—and some change daily. Taken together, along with the wine maker's hands, these slow and fast factors present a unique taste of time and place in wine. This concept, known in French as terroir, provides what passionate wine enthusiasts believe influence a wine's character, and the authentic expression of craftsmanship sought by younger wine consumers. Winemakers, by and large, recognize terroir as a key component to wine growing, yet often disagree about how and where it is achieved. As a Sonoma Valley winemaker, John Hamel, winemaker of Hamel Family Wines, is deeply passionate about expressing Hamel wines' terroir, something he feels is easier for European winemakers than those in California. To achieve this lofty goal, he partners with world-renowned terroir specialist, Pedro Parra. The results are a promising work in progress. 'Does [Hamel Family Wines] have the terroir or not? Because you have all the ideas, all the philosophy, and then you don't have the site. And if you don't have the site, in my experience, there's not many things that you can do.' 'I love European wines. There's a character in those wines that you find more often and with more intensity that I would call minerality,' says Hamel. 'In California, I think there's a very technologically savvy approach. We're very technical, but the connection between the wines and the place and the resulting minerality that you get in the wines is lower frequency, lower volume.' In 2016, Hamel learned Parra was asking similar questions about why some regions produce wines of tension and energy with ease while others struggle. Having wrestled with locating unique site expression consulting California wineries in the past, Parra was ready to re-up the challenge. However, he knew it would be risky. 'Does [Hamel Family Wines] have the terroir or not? Because you have all the ideas, all the philosophy, and then you don't have the site. And if you don't have the site, in my experience, there's not many things that you can do,' says Parra. Hamel Family Wines is located in Sonoma's Mayacamas Mountains, part of the California Coast Ranges that formed one-hundred million years ago. As the two began researching and mapping the estate vineyards, they discovered basalt in the early stages of decomposition—a bounty of volcanic stones—in the Nuns Canyon vineyard. This high elevation sloped site is filled with fractures formed by a lava flow three million years ago, in a Mediterranean climate. Early signs for expressing terroir. 'The stonier the terroir, the more character, the more depth, more energy, tension, the things that really make a wine distinctive and unique and interesting and fascinating. And it's the thing that I loved about the wines from Europe. Once we were able to dissect the terroir, you can see very clearly the conditions that give you those types of wines,' Hamel says. To maximize this sense of place, Hamel estate has been Demeter certified biodynamic since 2015. Additionally, eighty percent of the vines are not irrigated, a practice known as dry-farming. Because the un-decomposed basalt is fractured rock, the fractures act as a tunnel for rain to flow through while simultaneously allowing the vines' roots to grow deeper in source of water and nutrients. Many colleagues told Hamel dry-farming was a bad idea. It is too hard in California and that the quality of the wine would suffer. But an early mentor of Hamel's, Tod Mostero, director of viticulture and winemaking at Dominus Estate in Napa Valley, demonstrates dry farming can be successful. Hamel's experience has been equally successful, finding the vines with deeper root systems produce higher quality wines. He is quick to suggest he is not seeking regenerative farming for the sake of it. Rather, it's part of the team's fundamental philosophy of extracting as much expression of place as possible to make the best wines. He also believes his vines are better adept at weathering climate change perturbations because they are resilient to heat spikes and erratic weather patterns. Hamel Family Nuns Canyon Vineyard is a high elevation sloped site is filled with fractures formed by a lava flow three million years ago, in a Mediterranean climate Hamel Family Vineyard Beyond his vineyard work, Hamel intervenes as little as possible in the winemaking process. 'You see something that's very evocative and, you know, things like oak, things like over maceration, all these tools and equipment in the winery just starts to get in the way of that. And when you show that, you don't want there to be any makeup on that. You want to show the thing itself, Hamel says. 'And I think in a way, Pedro cured me of the inherent American mentality, which is if you just work hard enough on something, it'll be good. Terroir is not as democratic as that. Ultimately, we've got areas that are very, very good.' Parra believes over the past nine years they have come a long way in understanding the vineyards and maximizing farming methods to express place through vitality in the glass. What's next? Parra says its consolidation. 'To me, consolidation is the last stage. And that means that you are confident enough, holistic enough, and you have the confidence to be able to be proud and show it to the rest of the world. You can play the game well, but you need to score. To me, where're in the beginning of that era.' However, Parra offers high praise for Hamel. He sees what Hamel is doing is incredible and worthy of respect. 'John is a Ferrari. He's driving super fast. He has the terroir, the mentality, he's hungry, and few others are doing this in California. So, the future is incredible. It takes time to get the people to know and respect what is behind the wine, but it's going to happen. In three years, five, ten, I don't know. But it's inevitable because the terroir is great and the wines are great so it's going to happen.' Will Hamel Family Wine fully realize John Hamel's vision? Both men suggest it takes a couple of decades to determine grand cru quality wine. However, the current vintage delivers vibrancy, finesse, and tension, transporting oenophiles and novices alike to the ancient lava flows of Nun's Canyon Vineyard in the Mayacamas Mountains, truly a sense of place. How Tariff Uncertainty Impacts The Wine Industry Who's This Pedro Parra Guy Anyway? And Why Do Wine People Love Him? This Q&A Might Help The Dirty Truth Soil Health Plays In Wine
Forbes
5 days ago
- Business
- Forbes
14 Delicious Bourgogne (Burgundy) Wines From Five Different Regions
After recently visiting multiple producers and tasting 130 wines from the Bourgogne region in France, I selected the following 14 bottles from five of its wine producing sub-regions based on their overall quality and value. This renowned French wine region is now pressing to be called Bourgogne rather than its English translation of Burgundy (or Italian translation of Borgogna). The reasons are varied, including that most names of other French wine regions are not translated, and—intriguingly—that the color referred to as 'Burgundy' in English is called 'Bordeaux' in France and Italy. Bourgogne includes 84 distinct appellations, divided into Régional, Village (including Premier Cru) and Grand Cru distinctions, as well as over 1,800 climats—delineated vine plots with unique geological, exposure and hydrological characteristics that produce their own signature aromas/flavors. Prices for wines range widely within Bourgogne, and the region's overall cachet results in a small percentage of its wines commanding notably high prices (although Bourgogne produces 0.4% of the world's volume of wine, that accounts for 4% of global wine trade value). The selected wines below are listed from north to south, within the distinct sub-regions of Chablis & Grand Auxerrois, Côte de Nuits and Hautes Côtes de Nuits, Côte de Beaune and Hautes Côtes de Beaune, Côte Chalonnais and Couchois, and Mâconnais. All wines listed below are made either from white Chardonnay or red Pinot Noir grapes (although a smaller quantity of often excellent wines are made in the Bourgogne using Aligoté, César, Gamay and other grapes). 'Value' is determined by my proprietary Vino Value algorithm that normalizes and combines subjective tasting scores with objective bottle prices (retail, at cellar door) to identify wines of good (♫), excellent (♫♫) and superlative (♫♫♫) value—providing optimal 'bang for the buck.' Note that prices are local in France, and will be higher in the U.S. due to various factors. Note also that these selected wines represent only a very small sample of many high quality wines of desirable value from Bourgogne. Porte Noël in the city of Chablis, Bourgogne, France Domaine des Malandes. Fourchaume. AOC Chablis 1er Cru. 2023. 93-94 points. €40.00/$45.60. Excellent Value ♫♫. From Amandine Marchive and Richard Rottiers, whose grandmother began making wines in the region 50 years ago. The family ages most wines in a 70/30 blend of steel tanks and 500 liter Burgundian medium toasted barrels with oak from the Vosges forest. This Chardonnay includes complex aromas of honey and layered tropicals from one of the warmest climats in Chablis. Slightly nutty flavors in a crunchy, enticing mouthful of caramel and slight green apples in this Chardonnay. 'Our goal is to harvest quickly,' Amandine explained. 'Otherwise if it is hot in August you can lose acidity; if it is rainy there is a threat of mildew. We harvest 30 hectares [75 acres] in eight days, hand picking for Premier and Grand Cru plots.' Amandine Marchive of Domaine des Malandes, Chablis, Bourgogne, France Domaine Verret. Chardonnay. AOC Bourgogne Côtes d'Auxuerre. 2023. 91-92 points. €12.00/$13.70. Good Value ♫. From an estate with 148 acres (60 hectares), this 12.5% Chardonnay is vinified 50/50 in steel and used oak barrels and includes aromas of herbs, green apples, myrtle and slight salinity. Chewy, oily mouth feel in this semi-complex wine with a finish that includes slight caramel and lemon/line flavors. Domaine Gabin et Félix Richoux. Veaupessiot. AOC Irancy. 2021. 92-93 points. €25/$28.50. Excellent Value ♫♫. Irancy is an outlier—a village and appellation producing only red wines within Chablis, which is renowned for its dominant white wines. The village includes 250 residents, of which 10 are winemakers. With vines located above the River Yonne, these second generation winemaker brothers grow Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and César—a rare grape with big clustered bunches. Most of their visitors come from Paris, which is only two hours away by train. This Pinot Noir from a cool year vintage aged two years in oak and includes classic Burgundian aromas, including black currants and black cherries as well as some flint and black pepper. Soft and silky tannins. Gabin Richoux of Domaine Richoux, Irancy, Chablis, Bourgogne, France Domaine Le Guellec-Ducouet. Clos Champ. AOC Gevrey-Chambertin. 2023. 96-97 points. €44.00/$50.20. Superlative Value ♫♫♫. This domaine is owned by two business partners—one a winemaker and the other with roots in banking. Michaël Le Guellec took control over vines controlled by his family since 1920, although previously leased out. They use no chemicals. 'We try to make wines fresh and fruity, which people like to drink soon,' Michaël explained. Wines are exported to Asia, Europe and the U.S. Vines that produced grapes for this 13.5% alcohol Pinot Noir wine were planted between 1933 and 1985. Classic Burgundian aromas, including black pepper and volatiles. Suave tannins in this powerful, hefty, structured beauty of a wine with spice rack and elegance on the finish. Compelling, classic and a bargain. Winemaker Michaël Le Guellec of Domaine Le Guellec-Ducouet in Brochon, Côte-de-Nuits, Bourgogne, France, Domaine des Beaumont. AOC Morey-Saint-Denis. 2022. 92-93 points. €43.00/$49.00. Excellent Value ♫♫. Brothers Tanguy and Exupèry, both in their 20's, are 8th generation producers for a family that owns a 13.5 acre (5.5 hectare) estate. The wine is produced from grapes from five different plots and includes edgy aromas of bacon, petrol and wild fennel. This is a dark and hardy Pinot Noir, reminiscent partially of a Colorino, with flavors that include black licorice and star anise. Firm tannic backbone. Pair with grilled beef. Keep going brothers— the results are well worth it! Brothers Tanguy (right) and Exupéry Beaumont, Domaine des Beaumont, Morey-Saint-Denis, Côte-de-Nuits, Bourgogne, France Domaine de Montmain. Les Jiromées Grande Tradition. AOC Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits. 2022. 92-93 points. €36.00/$41.10. Excellent Value ♫♫. This wine estate is located up a beautiful valley west of, and perpendicular to, the axis of the hills that form the Côte d'Or. All wines are aged in oak, usually 30% new. Thirty-five year old Mathieu Piedcourt, originally from Cahors, has turned the valley and winery into a popular destination for visitors and sells wines via a thousand member club as well as by direct sales and export. The story of Mathieu is too fantastic to share in this brief space. This Chardonnay spent two years aging in new oak barrels. Aromas are bright, powerful and succulent and include grapefruit, limes and white flowers. The juice is not filtered. 4,000 bottles produced. 'We love what we do and we love to share it with others. Last year we had 8,000 visitors. We receive you whether you buy wine or not. I love wines that are powerful but with finesse.' Mathieu Piedcourt of Domaine de Montmain, Villars-Fontaine, Haut-Côte-de-Nuits, Bourgogne, France Maison Louis Latour. Pinot Noir. AOC Bourgogne. 2022. 91-92 points. €20.70/$23.60. Good Value ♫. Louis Latour, a venerable estate that has been in business since 1797, produces not only wines from 119 acres (48 hectares), but owns a cooperage that produces some 3,000 barrels a year—and has done so for centuries. Except for those barrels used in house, all are exported internationally to countries that include Australia and Canada. This 13% alcohol Pinot Noir of solid value includes firm tension between acidity and fruit and is an easy drinking wine to start of a summer gathering. Consider pairing with a dish that includes fat to match its tannic backbone. Cellars with old bottles within Domaine Louis Latour, Beaune, Bourgogne, France Maison Shaps. Les Vaumuriens. AOC Pommard. 2022. 95+ points. €48.00/$54.70. Superlative Value ♫♫♫. Hanna Shaps has been managing this winery for her American father Michael who also produces wine in Virginia in the U.S. 'It's important to be a French-American producer and not an American-French producer,' Hanna explained. The maison is a negociant, and produce some 15 different cuveés and 20,000 bottles per year from four hectares (10 acres) the family owns. This Pinot Noir wine aged 15 months in 50% new oak. Includes sunny, bright, striking and elegant aromas that include sage and black pepper. A wine with heft and structure, shouldered tannins and flavors that include black peppers. A dark, edgy and textured Pinot Noir with sesame and soy on the finish. Hotel de Ville, Beaune, France Bernard et Florian Regnaudot. Clos des Loyéres. AOC Maranges 1er Cru. 2020. €18.00/$20.50. 95+ points. Superlative Value ♫♫♫. This domaine is named after the father/son, 3rd/4th generation winemakers. Florian spent time making wine in Winona, Minnesota in the U.S. The Maranges appellation will be the site for the January, 2026 Saint-Vincent Tournante weekend long festival of music, wine and food. From vines planted in 1931, this Pinot Noir wines includes aromas of blackcurrants, black pepper, tobacco and tar. This is a deep, dark, peppery and elegant wine at astonishing value. Gentle fruit and light, slick tannins. Florian Regnaudot of Domaine Bernard and Florian Regnaudot, Santenay, Côte de Beaune, Bourgogne, France Domaine de l'Evêché. Édition Limitée. Pinot Noir. AOC Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise. 2022. 92-93 points. €25.00/$28.50. Excellent Value ♫♫. Quentin Joussier, fourth generation winemaker, works with his father Vincent, who bought the winery in 1985. The name of the winery translates to 'the bishop.' This Pinot Noir ages in new barrels and is only produced on years when conditions are optimal. Deep, rich aromas of red cherries, raspberries and some Dutch dorp licorice as well as wild fennel. Well integrated and elegant tannins and easy drinking. Quentin Joussier of Domaine de l'Evêché, Saint-Denis-de-Vaux, Côte Chalonnaise, Bourgogne, France, Domaine Michel Juillot. Clos du Roi. AOP Mercurey Premier Cru. 2024. 93-94 points. €35.00/$40.00. Excellent Value ♫♫. Beautiful cheery, light, floral aromas in this Pinot Noir. Precise and focused flavors include red cherries. Winemaker Maxime Rolant said that, 'For me, Mercurey is cherries.' No disagreement with that. Maxime Rolant of Domaine Michel Juillot, Mercurey, Côte Chalonnaise, Bourgogne, France Domaine Montbarbon. En Pommetin. AOC Viré-Clessé. 2023. 92-93 points. €21.00/$24.00. Excellent Value ♫♫. From this estate, on a clear day you can look east and see Mont Blanc, tallest peak in continental Europe. They have 32 acres [13 hectares] of vines, exclusively Chardonnay. Jean-Jacques Féral was a journalist before becoming a winemaker, and won an award for his winemaking in the Mâconnais region in 2022. He works with Martin Froppier. The estate provides vine cuttings to a nursery in the Savoie, which creates massal (rather than clonal) replacement vines for them. This Chardonnay ages eight months in 500 liter oak barrels as well as six months in steel. Aromas of mandarins and menthol and slight salinity. A rich, creamy, delicious wine that includes precise flavors of tropical fruits and slight honey. Pair with chicken, or a caramelized apple tart (tarte tatin). Jean-Jacques Féral of Domaine Montbarbon, Virè, Mâconnais, Bourgogne, France Domaine Auvigue. Au Vignerais. AOP Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru. 2021. 94+ points. €34.00/$38.90. Superlative Value ♫♫♫. The winery is located in a beautifully renovated centuries old church. Sylvain Brenas explained their thinking. 'The idea is to show a different style of Chardonnay. We are in the extreme south of Mâconnais, only a few kilometers from where the Beaujolais appellation begins.' This Chardonnay aged 16 months in a 50/50 combination of steel and oak. Aromas of salinity, pineapple, mangos. Crisp and creamy mouthful with slight menthol and guavas on the finish. Pair with scallops and shallots. Sylvain Brenas of Domaines Auvigue, Fuissé, Máconnais, Bourgogne, France Domaine Corsin. L'Exception. AOP Pouilly-Fuissé. 94-95 points. €39.80/$45.50. Superlative Value ♫♫♫. This winery, founded in 1864, gathers grapes from 40 separate plots. The hosts, including Pauline Mussy and Tiphanie Fortune, are casual, down to earth, warm and unpretentious. Their welcoming tasting room inadvertently resembles an Alpine ski lodge. This Chardonnay is made by winemaker Jérémy Corsin using grapes from three different plots and 70 year old vines. It is barrel vinified and barrel aged. Flinty, slightly salty and classic Burgundian Chardonnay aromas. Rich and creamy mid palate with crisp acidity and rich tropical fruits. Winemaker Jérémy Corsin with a bottle of 1997 Domaine Corsin, Mâconnais, Bourgogne, France
Daily Mail
09-06-2025
- Daily Mail
The best sparkling wines for summer sipping: How to get champagne taste on a prosecco budget - including a new £12 winner at Aldi
Champagne taste on a Prosecco budget? Look to France 's crémant regions – Loire, Alsace, Limoux and more – for traditional-method sparkle without the splurge. Over in Spain, Cava is also well worth exploring - once overlooked, it's seriously upped its game in recent years, with some excellent bottles on shelves from just £8. Further afield, sparkling wines from , Australia and Argentina can offer character, freshness and brilliant value.
Forbes
07-06-2025
- General
- Forbes
What's The Difference Between Pinot Noir And Cabernet Sauvignon?
Bunches of various grapes ready to be harvested If you've ever stared blankly at a wine list, wondering whether you're more in a Pinot Noir mood or a Cabernet Sauvignon mood, you're not alone. They're two of the most famous red wines on the planet—but they couldn't be more different once you get to know them. Think of Pinot and Cab like siblings at opposite ends of the family reunion: one's charming and a little high-maintenance, the other's bold and probably playing backyard football. Here's your friendly guide to what really separates these two classic reds—and how to choose the right one for your glass. Someone's hand pouring red wine into a wine glass in a home environment. Pinot Noir is a thin-skinned grape that's famously delicate, which means it needs cooler climates and a lot of love (and luck) to thrive. It's light-bodied, often pale in color, and it tends to highlight fresh, pretty fruit flavors. Cabernet Sauvignon, on the other hand, is basically the golden retriever of grapes: strong, adaptable, and happy almost anywhere, especially in warm climates. It's full-bodied, darker in color, and typically comes with a bigger flavor punch. If Pinot Noir is ballet, Cabernet Sauvignon is a heavyweight boxing match—graceful versus powerful, but both seriously impressive. mostly empty wine glass on top of freshly harvested pinot noir grapes in a bin Pinot Noir tends to be lighter and brighter. Expect flavors like: Good Pinot is all about elegance, balance, and subtlety. It's like a conversation at a fancy dinner party—you listen carefully and appreciate the nuance. Cabernet Sauvignon goes bigger. It brings flavors like: Good Cab is bold, structured, and often feels like it's laying out its argument in a booming voice. (And spoiler: it usually wins.) Photo of red wine poured into glasses from bottle on blurred background of a vineyard right before ... More harvest, with hanging branches of grapes. With cork and vintage corkscrew If you want something smooth and easygoing, Pinot's your pal. If you want something with serious structure that you can practically chew on (in a good way), go for Cab. wine pour. Cheese and grapes in the background Pinot Noir shines with lighter foods: roasted chicken, salmon, mushroom risotto, even a good old mushroom pizza. It's incredibly food-friendly because it's not trying to muscle over the meal. Cabernet Sauvignon is built for big flavors: think grilled steak, braised short ribs, rich cheeses, and anything else that could use a strong, tannic hug. One quick test: if the dish is delicate, reach for Pinot. If it's hearty enough to survive a medieval banquet, grab the Cab. Shelves with a variety of quality wines in a store, restaurant or wine shop Pinot Noir can be pricey because it's hard to grow and even harder to get just right. (Thanks, heartbreak grape.) Cabernet Sauvignon tends to offer more reliable options at a range of prices, especially from places like California, Chile, and Australia. That said, there's plenty of affordable Pinot out there—you just might have to hunt a little harder. (And maybe make friends with your local wine shop staff.) Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon may both be red, but they're really two very different drinking experiences. Go for Pinot when you're feeling elegant, a little contemplative, or when dinner is more about subtlety and finesse. Reach for Cab when you want something bold, hearty, and unapologetically full of flavor. Either way, you're winning—because the only real mistake is not having a second glass ready.
New York Times
05-06-2025
- Entertainment
- New York Times
A Starter Pack for Aspiring Wine Lovers
Here's a little secret about wine — it's great fun. It's delicious, too. You would never know this to hear people talk about wine. Too often, it is buried under a mass of nonsense that has nothing to do with the pleasure and joy it offers. It's discussed with painstaking precision using complex terminology and pretension, as tasters grapple with metaphorical descriptions of aromas and flavors, and conjecture about methodology and equipment. They ultimately deconstruct wine like anatomy students dismembering a cadaver. It makes wine seem like very serious business, which, for many people, is a turnoff. Wine does deserve academic discussion. It can be complicated, with many mysterious elements that people strive to understand. Yet it's also a simple pleasure, a great drink. The serious, rational side of wine should not overwhelm its emotional appeal. Dry talk about learning to 'appreciate' wine obscures the fact that people deeply, passionately love it. It's the difference between fulfilling an obligation and being moved by desire. Reconciling these two sides of wine can be baffling. It's no wonder that people are hesitant about wine, especially young people, many of whom also fear alcohol as risky. Almost everybody finds it intimidating and often more expensive than other alcoholic drinks. Nonetheless, people are often curious, too. Perhaps they've seen people enjoying it, and they may have heard that humans have considered wine a great pleasure for thousands of years. Want all of The Times? Subscribe.
