Latest news with #pirates
The Guardian
21 hours ago
- Entertainment
- The Guardian
Expedition to ‘real home of the pirates of the Caribbean' hopes to unearth ships and treasure
The Pirates of the Caribbean is a $4.5bn swashbuckling film franchise and Blackbeard and Calico Jack Rackham are among marauding buccaneers who have captured imaginations over the centuries. But almost nothing is known about the life and times of actual pirates. Now a leading British marine archaeologist is co-directing an expedition that has been allowed for the first time to search for pirate ships off Nassau on the island of New Providence, a notorious pirate hideout 300 years ago. No one has until now explored the seabed for their ships and treasure, let alone everyday belongings that could be as valuable to historical research as a stash of emeralds, Dr Sean Kingsley said. 'The potential is enormous,' he added. 'We are expecting to find some really cool stuff because this is the real home of the pirates of the Caribbean. 'Pirates didn't keep journals listing their lawlessness. What happened in Nassau stayed in Nassau. If we want to discover the truth, we're going to have to dive for it.' The Bahamas was a major crossroads for trade and more than 500 ships have been wrecked off New Providence since the 1680s, according to historical sources. But there may be dozens more, with pirate ships among them. In 1718, when Woodes Rogers sailed to Nassau to become its governor, he noted 40 seized ships on the shore that had been 'either burnt or sunk' to destroy evidence and 'about 700 pirates'. In 1696, the privateer Henry Avery sailed to Nassau in his ship, the Fancy, laden with loot. He used some of the treasure to bribe the governor of the Bahamas, establishing Nassau as a base for fellow pirates. Top of the most-wanted hitlist of shipwrecks is the Fancy, a 46-gun flagship. Kingsley said: 'Avery of Plymouth lit the fuse and threw the grenade that started the golden age of piracy after looting a Mughal treasure ship of $108m off India. He then sailed to Nassau in 1696 to lie low, party and for the crew to break up with their cut of the booty. Avery scuttled the Fancy in Nassau. It's the crown jewels of pirate ships. If we were to find anything associated with it, it would be spectacular. Its plunder was the greatest and most successful pirate heist on the high seas.' The New Providence Pirates Expedition – which is dedicated to science, education, entertainment and tourism in the Bahamas – is drawing on historical and archaeological evidence to conduct the first underwater survey, which begins in September. The project has secured the first-ever agreement with the Antiquities, Monuments and Museums Corporation of the Bahamas, a partner collaborator. Kingsley has explored more than 350 shipwrecks in the last 30 years and is the founding editor of Wreckwatch, the world's only magazine dedicated to the sunken past. The affiliated Wreckwatch TV is collaborating with the New Providence Pirates Expedition to bring 'the history, ruined landscape and sea dogs of the golden age of piracy between 1696 and 1730 back to life' through a documentary film, The Mystery of the Pirate King's Treasure. The film's co-director, Chris Atkins, said: 'The Bahamas, with its azure waters and crystal-clear underwater visibility, is a film-maker's dream. For the first time in history, viewers are going to see with their own eyes the places where Blackbeard and gang terrorised the Americas. Somewhere out there are the wine bottles they partied with, the tobacco pipes they smoked, the pieces of eight carelessly lost and so much more. This is a once in a lifetime opportunity to get up close and personal with the real pirates of the Caribbean.' Asked how they will identify pirate shipwrecks, Kingsley said: 'Generally, if you find a Dutch, English or French shipwreck, it has a very specific type of material culture on it. If it's Spanish, it will have olive jars, a good marker. If it's British, it may have Bristol or London tobacco pipes, for instance. On a pirate wreck, you will find French, English and Dutch ceramics and a mix of coins, anything from Arabian to British, and weapons such as stinkpots, explosive weapons used by pirates.' Dr Michael Pateman, the expedition's co-director and the ambassador for history, culture and museology in the Bahamas, said: 'This is the first project to reconstruct the port and landscape where Blackbeard, Calico Jack Rackham, Anne Bonny and the rest of the notorious Flying Gang were based. Anything could still be down there.'
Yahoo
2 days ago
- Yahoo
Mig Flash V2 shown working on Nintendo Switch 2
When you buy through links on our articles, Future and its syndication partners may earn a commission. The MIG Flash (formerly MIG-Switch) flash cart has been demonstrated to be compatible with the Nintendo Switch 2, backed by a small teaser from the team at X and the official listing explicitly stating: "Compatible with Switch 2". The company hasn't detailed how they got the flash cart working despite initial failures, but a firmware update is the likely enabler. The MIG Flash was unveiled last year, serving as a flash cart that allows Nintendo Switch owners to play game backups from a microSD card. It effectively cosplays as an official Nintendo Switch game cartridge, tricking the console into recognizing and running dumped ROMs stored on the microSD card. Though intended for legitimate owners to easily maintain personal game backups, or for aspiring game developers hoping to make games for the Switch 2, the MIG Flash has, one way or another, found its way into the hands of pirates as well. While the MIG Flash was initially deemed incompatible at launch, it now seemingly works with the Switch 2, suggesting the team has somehow cracked Nintendo's built-in protections for the new system. In a recent demo on X, they managed to boot The Legend of Zelda: Echoes of Wisdom, directly from the MIG Flash, though the load time was painfully slow. Better yet, the company now advertises the MIG Flash V2 to be compatible with the Switch 2 on their official website, touting a seamless experience: "Simply plug & play!" This was likely achieved through a firmware update, allowing it to circumvent new checks introduced by Nintendo for the Switch 2 that prevented it from booting or loading games previously. Still, don't expect it to run backups for Switch 2 games as dumping those ROMs is currently not possible, not to mention the illegality of such an act. There have been whispers of a userland exploit on the Switch 2, but its functionality and scope are extremely limited. Let's address the elephant in the room. While the MIG Flash can theoretically enable pirates to play titles from the original Switch on Switch 2 hardware, it carries a very high risk of getting your console banned. Each Switch cartridge carries a unique identifier. Nintendo has sophisticated systems in place to detect if multiple consoles share the same cartridge ID and flag this as piracy, leading to an account ban, a console ban, or, at worst, a bricked console. Follow Tom's Hardware on Google News to get our up-to-date news, analysis, and reviews in your feeds. Make sure to click the Follow button.
Daily Mail
11-06-2025
- Daily Mail
I visited the real-life Neverland and met the 'Lost Boys' - there's only one way to get there
Finding Neverland was not on the agenda when I opened Google Maps and clicked through random destinations to decide my next holiday. Yet here I am on a desert island, surrounded by towering sea cliffs and shipwrecks along an ancient pirate route in the Palawan archipelago of the Philippines. The Lost Boys brought me here: to the uninhabited island of Cadlao, off the coast of El Nido. But rather than the characters imagined by J.M. Barrie, these Lost Boys are the crew of Tao Philippines, running group expeditions across the West Philippine Sea. These remarkable seafarers, many the sons of ex-pirates, were raised among the 11 islands we are exploring on a five-night cruise covering 155 miles (250km) from El Nido, on Palawan Island, to Coron, on Busuanga. They can navigate the archipelago without a map, catch fish from the boat, climb coconut trees and have a cheeky, but kind. sense of spirit. Our vessel for the first two days is a 74ft wooden Paraw, a traditional Filipino sailboat with tribal carvings and rigging, followed by a more modern boat to cross choppier waters. As we set sail from El Nido port, we are accompanied by a pod of dolphins leaping from the water just metres from the deck while hundreds of tropical butterflies soar between the sails. Laura Sharman visits the uninhabited island of Cadlao, off the coast of El Nido in the Philippines, with help from the 'Lost Boys', the crew of Tao Philippines These remarkable seafarers, many the sons of ex-pirates, were raised among the 11 islands Laura and her group explore on a five-night cruise covering 155 miles (250km) from El Nido Of the Philippines' 7,641 islands, we are staying on five of the most remote, sleeping in bamboo huts on otherwise deserted beaches with the bare essentials – a mattress, mosquito net, modest toilet block, and a picnic bench for sharing meals which are all included in the voyage. Some of the islands lack fresh water so our shower is alfresco, made from a hosepipe and a water tank hung from a tree. We're warned to keep our mouths closed while washing and use bottled water for teeth brushing to avoid an upset stomach. These secluded settings are made possible by Tao's collaboration with local councils which guarantees a minimal ecological impact on these otherwise unvisited islands, keeping them wild. Each day, the Lost Boys fish for our supper, reeling in yellowfin tuna, squid, tilapia and barracuda. This is then barbecued and served on a giant banana leaf with 'Filipino power' – their name for the country's staple dish, garlic rice. It's the definition of sea-to-plate. On our first night, here on Cadlao Island, the feast takes place under the light of our head torches and laughter fills the table, free from the distractions of electricity or Wi-Fi. Of the Philippines' 7,641 islands, Laura is staying on five of the most remote, sleeping in bamboo huts with just a mattress, mosquito net, modest toilet block, and a picnic bench for sharing meals Each day, the Lost Boys fish for the evening meal, reeling in yellowfin tuna, squid, tilapia and barracuda The Lost Boys know just where to drop the anchor for this hidden paradise and we swim to shore accompanied by a school of fish dancing at our feet. Its staggering limestone cliffs, dense vegetation and enchanting lagoon are reminiscent of Peter Pan's Neverland. Beyond its playful monkeys, fascinating monitor lizards and elusive snakes, this uninhabited gem stands as the largest island in the El Nido archipelago with the tallest peak, reaching 609 metres above sea level. And we have it all to ourselves for the night. The trumpeting of a conch shell marks the start of a new day and we set sail for Daracotan Island after an aubergine omelette on the beach. Starfish larger than my palm decorate the seabed and clownfish retreat into their shelters as we explore the El Nido Shipwreck - a tugboat wreck that succumbed to Typhoon Herming in 1987. But it's the deadly box jellyfish that are the most mesmerising marine life we see on our voyage, during the third night, spent on Culion Island. Approaching the shore via a tropical valley, we observe the enormous translucent creatures being swept beneath the boat's bow and I dread to think what would happen if I were to dive in for a swim. Yet the island's 23,000 residents seem largely unphased by their presence, wading out to their boats barefoot. Once known as the 'Island of No Return,' this haunting destination served as the world's largest leprosarium in the early 1900s during the American colonisation, the Lost Boys tell me. Many were banished here under Act 1711 of the Philippine Commission and up to 60 per cent of those treated did not survive their first four years on the island. What was a place of despair slowly evolved into a community of more than 400 households, leading to a sanitary system, hospital, theatre, town hall and school. Stepping onto the island via a rickety pontoon, I am grateful to hear that it is now leprosy-free. It's hard to imagine its dark history as we make our way to our bamboo huts beneath a forest canopy speckled with Pink Rain Lilies. Now it's a very different place. In a clearing bordered by fire torches, women from the neighbouring Coring village are offering a one-hour full body massage for just 1,500 Philippine Pesos (£20), with their children sat beside them playing on smartphones. And by the waterfront is now a manmade plunge pool overlooking the enchanting albeit jellyfish-infested valley. WHAT TO BRING ON YOUR TAO EXPEDITION A 30-litre dry bag to store your belongings for the trip while your main suitcase will remain on the boat Travel insurance including emergency evacuation cover Portable charger Refillable water bottle Cap or hat Sun protection Head torch Jellyfish guard Reef shoes and sandals Small towel and swimwear Lightweight rain jacket Sarong Anti-mosquito spray Rehydration salts and anti-diarrhea tablets Plasters Camera of choice Nearby, the Lost Boys are serving fried lentil balls with Filipino power and vegetables and our team leader Joshua is strumming a guitar by a crackling bonfire. The only activities - besides feasting - are sharing stories by the fire and dancing under the stars. Thirty-two miles (52km) away is our next stop Manlihan Island. Often referred to as Cobra Island, it is tied to a local legend which speaks of Japanese soldiers hiding treasure here during WWII. When fishermen found the chest, it was supposedly decorated with a magnificent golden cobra. Today, the treasure hunt unfolds beneath the surrounding waters teeming with vibrant coral gardens and turtles. Tucking into breakfast onboard the boat, we spot one peeking its head above the water and are soon swimming alongside it. The expedition culminates on Mangenguey Island, at a Crusoe-style camp built from the remains of a typhoon-wrecked resort. Other than feasting, the only activities on this island are dancing under the stars and sharing stories by the fire Its white sands feel like a plush carpet and the water is so clear you can see the bottom when your feet no longer touch the ground. Unlike previous basecamps, this one is not short of amenities with beach volleyball, basketball, lounge spaces with hammocks, a fire dancing show and a beach bar serving beer, wine and cocktails. Behind it all is a dry, grassy hill topped with three bamboo towers for the ultimate sundowners. From here, I look for the second star to the right and am reminded of where it all began on Cadlao Island, the 'Neverland of the Philippines'
ABC News
09-06-2025
- Entertainment
- ABC News
Aussie 'pirates' beat US marines, army engineers to win Darwin's Beer Can Regatta
A homemade boat decorated with hanging empty beer cans has taken a dozen "pirates" to victory at this year's Darwin Beer Can Regatta. Thousands gathered at Mindil Beach on Sunday to watch homemade boats, fashioned out of empty drink containers including beer cans and plastic milk bottles, sink or swim at the annual charity fundraiser. Locals and tourists gathered at Mindil Beach to watch teams compete in homemade boats. ( ABC News: Oliver Chaseling ) Six teams raced their beer can boats from the water's edge, around buoys and back to shore, while spectators cheered from the sand. Homemade boats weren't the only handiwork on display, with some dressing up for the occasion. ( ABC News: Oliver Chaseling ) Water pistols and projectiles were used in the capture-the-flag style Battle of Mindil, split into open and junior divisions, as teams tried to fend off other competitors in the day's grand final contest. The event program also featured activities including tug-of-war, iron man, relays, kayaking races, games of thong throwing and a challenge to crown the day's best drink can or carton-inspired outfits. Four local Lions Club groups — Nightcliff, Casuarina, Palmerston and Litchfield — organised the charity fundraiser event, with the Mindil Beach Surf Life Saving Club this year's beneficiary. The 2025 Beer Can Regatta, the annual event's 51st instalment, saw locals and tourists gather at Mindil Beach to watch teams compete in homemade watercraft. The June event is hosted by The Lions Club at Nightcliff, Casuarina, Palmerston and Litchfield, raising money for charity. ( ABC News: Oliver Chaseling ) The 2025 Beer Can Regatta, the annual event's 51st instalment, saw locals and tourists gather at Mindil Beach to watch teams compete in homemade watercraft. The June event is hosted by The Lions Club at Nightcliff, Casuarina, Palmerston and Litchfield, raising money for charity. ( ABC News: Oliver Chaseling ) The 2025 Beer Can Regatta, the annual event's 51st instalment, saw locals and tourists gather at Mindil Beach to watch teams compete in homemade watercraft. The June event is hosted by The Lions Club at Nightcliff, Casuarina, Palmerston and Litchfield, raising money for charity. ( ABC News: Oliver Chaseling ) The 2025 Beer Can Regatta, the annual event's 51st instalment, saw locals and tourists gather at Mindil Beach to watch teams compete in homemade watercraft. The June event is hosted by The Lions Club at Nightcliff, Casuarina, Palmerston and Litchfield, raising money for charity. ( ABC News: Oliver Chaseling ) The 2025 Beer Can Regatta, the annual event's 51st instalment, saw locals and tourists gather at Mindil Beach to watch teams compete in homemade watercraft. The June event is hosted by The Lions Club at Nightcliff, Casuarina, Palmerston and Litchfield, raising money for charity. ( ABC News: Oliver Chaseling ) The 2025 Beer Can Regatta, the annual event's 51st instalment, saw locals and tourists gather at Mindil Beach to watch teams compete in homemade watercraft. The June event is hosted by The Lions Club at Nightcliff, Casuarina, Palmerston and Litchfield, raising money for charity. ( ABC News: Oliver Chaseling ) The 2025 Beer Can Regatta, the annual event's 51st instalment, saw locals and tourists gather at Mindil Beach to watch teams compete in homemade watercraft. The June event is hosted by The Lions Club at Nightcliff, Casuarina, Palmerston and Litchfield, raising money for charity. ( ABC News: Oliver Chaseling ) The 2025 Beer Can Regatta, the annual event's 51st instalment, saw locals and tourists gather at Mindil Beach to watch teams compete in homemade watercraft. The June event is hosted by The Lions Club at Nightcliff, Casuarina, Palmerston and Litchfield, raising money for charity. ( ABC News: Oliver Chaseling ) The boats are made by recycling empty drink cans. ( ABC News: Oliver Chaseling ) Lachlan says the boat was made for load, not speed. ( ABC News: Oliver Chaseling ) While creativity plays a big part in the regatta, the reliability of each watercraft is put to the test when it hits the water. Learning from the past The dozen-strong Down Under Safari Pirates claimed victory in both the main race and the Battle of Mindil this year, with the team coming back strong after sinking in 2024. Team leader Scotty Hannaford said he had learned how important it was to have a hands-on approach, having taken the lead in this year's boat design and build. "We thought we'd have a better crack, a bit better build, this year," he said. Scotty Hannaford took the lead in crafting his team's boat. ( ABC News: Oliver Chaseling ) A team from the United States Marine Corps, in the Northern Territory for the annual Marine Rotational Force — Darwin (MRF-D), also competed. Team member Hunter Alley said he had drawn on his past experience for this year's regatta. Open energy drink cans decorated the outside of the US Marines' boat. ( ABC News: Oliver Chaseling ) He said in 2023 the marines team had "built a really cool boat, and it was lighter, but we just didn't win". "We decided we're not engineers, we're marines', so we just started putting stuff together," he said. "This year we built something strong, something big, and we don't care [if it's fast], we're just here to fight." The US team's boat was named Kyle. ( ABC News: Oliver Chaseling ) Their boat, named Kyle, was mostly made of energy drink cans, reflecting the crew's long work hours, and featured an American flag flying from the back. Another returning team on Sunday was the 1st Combat Engineer Regiment, who won the 2024 event after another team was disqualified. They said they wanted to win the Battle of Mindil this time around, and hoped the SS Sapper — named after the slang term for engineer soldiers — was up to the challenge. The SS Sapper was named to represent the engineers who competed in it. ( ABC News: Oliver Chaseling ) Sergeant Vittoria Vitiello described the craft as "a textbook build", with the team drawing on inspiration from the event rule book which lists catamarans as "popular and generally quite quick in the water". "It's painted in the regimental colours, the red and the blue, and it's filled with beer cans," Sergeant Vitiello said. "It is the same boat that was used last year, with a fresh coat of paint, some new cans and extra glue, so fingers crossed she holds up this time as well." Some teams were still making last-minute modifications on race day. ( ABC News: Oliver Chaseling ) What is the Beer Can Regatta all about? According to the Lions Club, the first Beer Can Regatta took place on June 16 in 1974 as an effort to clean up Darwin. Coralie Brannelly says the Beer Can Regatta first began as an effort to clean up Darwin. ( ABC News: Oliver Chaseling ) Coralie Brannelly from Palmerston Lions Club, who has been helping to organise the event for about 14 years, said its inception was the result of "this amazing decision to build boats with the cans that were lying around". "It's a recycling event, more than a beer event, but it's unique to us," she said. Lachlan Gotts (centre left) said his junior team's boat was made with "a lot of cans and a lot of Sika". ( ABC News: Oliver Chaseling ) Each year, competitors are welcomed to "can-struct" a watercraft from anything that floats: empty aluminium cans, milk bottles, drink cartons. There are no rules about boat design, but the empty drink containers must be the primary flotation source. The boats part of the event are made by recycling empty drink cans. ( ABC News: Oliver Chaseling ) Teams often begin organising well ahead of the big day, since Lions recommends about 2,500 cans are needed to carry a team of six. What about crocs? Since the event takes place during the Top End's dry season, locals will tell you the risk of crocodiles at the beach is generally pretty low. Racegoers could buy iced coffees and soft drinks from a floating kiosk at the beach. ( ABC News: Oliver Chaseling ) That's because the iconic reptiles mate in the wet season, encouraged by the longer days and rainy weather, and move through the water a lot more to breed in those warmer months. At this year's event the only sighting was a croc look-alike junior boat, made of iced coffee cartons and affectionately named Chompers, resting on the beach. Racegoers could snap a photo with Chompers. ( ABC News: Gemma Ferguson ) Posted 10m ago 10 minutes ago Mon 9 Jun 2025 at 4:33am
Telegraph
08-06-2025
- Telegraph
The man who turned a polluted pirate hotspot into a fly-fishing paradise
After the pirates hijacked the boat we chartered, the government shut down the whole Outer Islands of Seychelles. We weren't allowed back to Cosmoledo for five years.' The man who tells me this looks as if he was built outdoors. Sun-burnished and wind-drawn, Keith Rose-Innes is an adventurer, entrepreneur, fly-fishing guide and current custodian of Cosmoledo atoll. I try not to think about Somali pirates with AK-47s as I shift my feet in the sand. Cosmoledo is a faraway island paradise by any measure. From London I flew to Dubai, caught a plane to Mahé, the main island of the Seychelles, before taking a 14-seater turboprop for a two-and-a-half-hour flight to Astove Atoll. I then waded over the coral and turtle grass to board a small boat, eventually landing on Cosmoledo an hour later. I am rewarded by the sight of 100,000 sooty terns circling each other in a dizzying mating dance. Their squawks, and the ripple of waves, are the only soundtrack. It is a truly grand spectacle to see so many birds, as they flock – each evening throughout the spring – to the same patch of sky. In just a few hours I've seen a giant coconut crab – the world's largest terrestrial arthropod, which is diminishing in numbers – scuttle past. Ringed plovers gorge on washed-up shrimp in the surf line. Frigatebirds, pirates of the sky, snatch food from red-footed boobies midair, and baby turtles, smaller than teabags, stutter out of their nests, making their maiden voyage to salt water. It's easy to believe that life abounds here thanks to a lucky cocktail of remoteness and climate. The truth is much more fragile. Without the determination and vision of Rose-Innes and his team, Cosmoledo could easily have become just another item in the list of miraculous places now withering in the dark shadow of human interference. And this story of restoration has an unlikely beginning: the sport of fly-fishing. Rose-Innes grew up catching trout with his grandfather in South Africa, and on trips across the continent with his father. After a stint of studying to be an art director in Cape Town, the call of fish – and the wild places they live in – was too strong. To get his foot in the fly-fishing door he rigged tackle for hedge fund managers in London's legendary fishing shop, Farlows, in Mayfair. In 1999, at the age of 22, he started guiding on the more accessible islands of the Seychelles. During the off season, he would lead anglers on a far-flung salmon river in Arctic Russia. He began chartering dive boats, filling them with fly-fishermen, and exploring the Seychelles. 'The fishing was mind-blowing,' he says, 'and I was young, ambitious and competitive. I wanted my clients to catch the biggest fish, to grow the business and to build my name. We were getting more bookings, and so I started looking for more fishing grounds; ideally another atoll, so we could run a second boat.' These were the days before Google Earth. Rose-Innes searched for a new atoll the old-fashioned way, squinting at maps in a dusty colonial office on Mahé. It was here that he found a nautical chart of Cosmoledo. The elegant typeface at the top read, 'From a survey by Comdr. W.J.L. Wharton in 1878… with corrections by Comdr. D.W. Haslam, HMS Owen, 1964.' He first laid eyes on Cosmoledo in 2005. 'Those first trips were like the Wild West. On the first day we grounded Mieke, a 100ft schooner. The old charts I had picked up were all wrong.' After spending time walking among the atoll's 18 islands and 145 square kilometres of reef flats, they began to grasp the scale of the opportunity. Soon there was a waiting list of people looking to join Rose-Innes on a trip there. For a few years his business thrived. On the morning of 27 March 2009, Rose-Innes was aboard one of the boats he chartered, the Mayas Dugong, preparing for another day on the water. Two hundred and fifty miles to the west, his second boat, the Indian Ocean Explorer, was wrapping up after hosting fishing groups on Cosmoledo. His radio crackled: 'Pirates have taken Indian Ocean Explorer.' The day before, Indian Ocean Explorer had left Cosmoledo and sailed to Assumption, a nearby island with a landing strip, where it had dropped Rose-Innes's business partner and the last clients of the season for their return home. Left on board was Captain Francis Rouco and his Seychellois crew. A little before midnight the boat was stormed by 11 pirates carrying AK-47s, and ordered to set sail for Somalia – an open ocean crossing of some 800 miles. When they anchored in Somalia, the haul was considered disappointing. These pirates had, months earlier, hijacked the Sirius Star, carrying two million barrels of crude oil. Before that they'd bagged Faina, a freighter carrying 33 Russian tanks. Had they been 24 hours earlier with the Indian Ocean Explorer they would have had a group of wealthy Western tourists, and with them a healthy ransom price. After eight weeks, the Seychelles government paid a ransom of $450,000 and the crew returned home. The pirates burned and sank the Indian Ocean Explorer. By the spring of 2009 the West was losing patience with the scourge of piracy around the Gulf of Aden. Just 12 days after the hijacking of the Indian Ocean Explorer, four Somali pirates, aged between 15 and 18, took control of the Maersk Alabama, a cargo ship carrying 401 containers of USAID food destined for refugee centres across East Africa. It was the first time a ship under the US flag had fallen to pirates since 1815. After a standoff, snipers from US Navy Seal Team Six shot three of the pirates and captured the fourth. Subsequently, dozens of US warships, manned by NATO forces, patrolled the area and dismantled pirate settlements. There were 237 attempted hijackings in the region in 2011 and just two (failed) attempts in 2014. Now, for more than a decade, there hasn't been a flicker of piracy around the Seychelles' seas. But for Rose-Innes and his team, 2009 was a sobering time. In many cases guests had paid large deposits for their trips on Indian Ocean Explorer, and they expected to be refunded. Much of the money had already been spent because operating at such extreme remoteness requires both resources and planning. They looked into options to relocate their business, but pristine atolls like Cosmoledo are rare. During this enforced absence from the Outer Islands, Rose-Innes realised he wanted to do more than just guide fly-fishing trips. He struck a partnership with a fellow South African, businessman Murray Collins, who shared Rose-Innes's passion for conservation. Together they launched an eco-tourism company called Blue Safari Seychelles. As piracy became a distant memory, the Seychelles government started reopening the outer atolls. In March 2014 Rose-Innes returned to Cosmoledo. 'What I found wasn't the Eden I left behind. It was a butcher shop. Commercial fishermen from the Comoros and Madagascar had set up a temporary camp on one of the islands. It was now an abandoned settlement: fish carcasses and turtle shells, drying racks, buckets for salting sea cucumbers, piles of burned garbage. It was clear they'd put a hell of a lot of pressure on the place. This was a defining moment. 'I realised that if we're going to protect these atolls, we need to have a permanent presence. We can't just show up for a fishing season and then bugger off back to South Africa.' Although the Cosmoledo that Rose-Innes found when he first visited back in 2005 was uninhabited, it was far from untouched. The encampments he saw when he returned after the atoll's closure were just the latest in a long list of exploitative industries. Although Cosmoledo was reputedly visited by the Portuguese navigator João da Nova in the 15th century, the first recorded exploration of the atoll was in 1822 by the Royal Navy. Humans started to settle on the various islands around 1880. For the next century it was used as a whaling station, guano was mined and mangrove bark was stripped. It was also a prolific turtle fishery. Up to 7,000 green turtles per year were harvested on behalf of Campbell's Soup Company. The hawksbill turtles were killed for tortoiseshell ornaments and green snails were taken to make mother-of-pearl trinkets. Land was even cleared in an attempt to cultivate sea island cotton. All of these industries failed, and the place was abandoned in 1992. By the time Rose-Innes returned, Cosmoledo's eco-system was hanging by a thread. He knew they needed to act fast in order to protect the atoll. Rose-Innes and Murray approached the Seychelles government and submitted plans to build a permanent lodge. 'They were, rightly, nervous about having a human presence here. This is one of the last pristine they agreed we could put something up on a trial basis, as long as it was all removable. They were clear: this isn't the Maldives. They don't want anything built into the water, disrupting the coral. There can be no light pollution. It was very strict, and rightly so.' With a lease in place and permission granted, the lodge was built in 2018. 'Lodge' is a euphemism: the rooms are converted shipping containers with outdoor showers, and the main eating areas are large safari-style tents. The only building with any sense of permanence is the small cyclone shelter. However, the containers are converted luxuriously, aiming to please a clientele with deep enough pockets to make the journey – but the ecological imperative being that the whole camp could be lifted without leaving a trace if necessary. The project began as an elite fly-fishing destination. Rose-Innes's customers ranged from angling addicts, who saved for years to get their hit of wilderness adventure, to time-poor captains of industry in pursuit of the finest fishing on the planet. Soon his horizons broadened beyond selling fishing trips. More comfortable accommodations opened the door to wildlife tourism; ocean-going safaris where guests observe the atoll's web of life. His permanent presence also meant constant surveillance – both to deter illegal fishing vessels and facilitate research. The Blue Safari team amounts to 20 people during the season, but there are always at least four on the atoll all year round, maintaining the camp and keeping watch. Not everyone on the atoll is an employee of Rose-Innes however. 'Running a place like Cosmoledo, it's critical to work closely with the goverment. We take a collaborative approach.' Each year Rose-Innes and his team participate in the monitoring of turtle populations, take a census of the sooty terns, count myriad other seabird colonies, and undertake significant beach clean-up operations. Cosmoledo isn't immune to the plague of plastic that taints our oceans, whether it's a washed-up flip-flop or a 300ft fishing net. New projects are starting all the time. Research is currently ongoing into coral health, as well as the impacts of eradicating rats from the atoll in 2007. The most significant development is the inclusion of Cosmoledo in the Seychelles Marine Spatial Plan, in which 30 per cent of Seychelles territory is designated as a Marine Protected Area. Rose-Innes is tentative: 'This is a big step forward, and we've been involved with the government on this since the beginning. But we're still awaiting the exact frameworks, and we need to ensure that they really do adequately protect these places.' The sun bounces off the water on to my face as I gaze up at a troop of red-tailed tropic birds overhead. I hop aboard a skiff with an outboard motor, fly rod in hand. The shallow draft allows us to drift silently over the sand flats, while the guide directs us with a push pole. Wild fish in only a few feet of water require a stealthy approach. My guide today is Brandon Poole, who's been here since the beginning. A cigarette hangs from his lips as he scans the water. 'How is it different to the old days, when you first started here?' I ask. 'Well, if Keith hadn't put the lodge here, then this atoll would be in a terrible state. Every year when we'd come back from being away for six months, we wouldn't find fishing boats, but there would be signs of poaching. Now, we see the odd boat, maybe once or twice a season. We call the coastguard, and they come and arrest them and sink the boats.' He pauses. 'Keith loves this place. He'll do anything he can to protect it.' 'Do you see that sting ray?' he suddenly exclaims. 'There's a couple of giant trevally feeding around it. It's coming at 11 o'clock, 30 yards. This is your shot. Lead it. Good. Now, strip, strip. Set!' With a shocking speed the trevally sees my fly and sprints toward it, mouth agape, crushing the six-inch-long imitation of a bait fish. It is the definition of frenzied gluttony. The line peels from my reel as the fish charges towards the edge of the reef, where it will find pillars of sharp coral and sever our connection. 'Hold it. Tighten the drag.' Poole bends down to start the motor of the skiff and give chase. It is a tense few minutes. My arms start to ache. The fish is now close, and I am thankful when Poole reaches into the water and grabs it by the tail. He slides the hook from its mouth. He hands me the fish and I hold it upright for a few moments, studying the large eyes that can spot prey through the turbulent ocean, and marvel at the strength of its tail that can generate such speed. 'I came for the fly fishing, but I now stay for the whole ecosystem,' says Rose-Innes. 'I'm just as happy walking the surf line looking at the wildlife as I am with a fly rod in my hand.' Rose-Innes's wife and children live mostly in South Africa, which has a more family-friendly infrastructure than the middle of the Indian Ocean, while he has spent 'the last 25 years travelling constantly back and forth to the Seychelles'. The week after my trip, his 13-year-old son, Pano, is due to visit, his first trip to Cosmoledo. I wonder if he will experience it in the same way that Rose-Innes has. Rose-Innes pauses. 'I'm worried,' he admits. 'We're at a pivotal moment. I'm always talking to the government here, and I'm hopeful about new conservation initiatives. But it will only take a line of cruise ships showing up with 100 people on board to ruin these islands. And we already see climate impacts. The outer islands used to avoid coral bleaching, but last year, it was bad.' There is a sense of optimism here however. Cosmoledo is more than just a paradise: it's an argument, a model of what conservation can look like when the balance is right. Across the Indian Ocean, once-pristine atolls have buckled under unchecked tourism and short-term gain. In the Maldives, coral reefs have been dredged to build airport runways and artificial islands. In Mauritius, oil spills and overdevelopment have scarred fragile environments. The contrast with Cosmoledo is stark: here, limited access, light-touch infrastructure, and a clear conservation mandate have created one of the healthiest marine ecosystems on Earth. This week, the world's leaders will assemble for the UN Ocean Conference in Nice, France. From air-conditioned and marble-floored halls, they'll make pledges, pose for photos, and talk about 'accelerating action'. Meanwhile, on a tiny island in the middle of nowhere, Keith Rose-Innes and his dedicated team are doing it. An atoll that was once defined by exploitation is now overflowing with marine life. It may be too late for the mega-resorts and Instagram wedding venues that have already been built, but not far from here lies the British Indian Ocean Territory – the Chagos Archipelago – perhaps the most pristine set of atolls left on Earth. It's currently a military base and a geopolitical football, but with sovereignty likely returning to Mauritius, the question isn't just who owns it, but who protects it? Mauritius could choose to go the way of its mainland. Or it could follow the vision of Rose-Innes and the beacon of Cosmoledo – where guest numbers are limited, structures leave no scars, and the only pirates left are the soaring, angular frigatebirds.
