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Tatler Asia
2 days ago
- Business
- Tatler Asia
Wind back to Bvlgari's outstanding debut at Watches and Wonders 2025
Bvlgari's inaugural showing at Watches and Wonders 2025 was a declaration of disruptive intent and prowess. Within a fair increasingly dominated by legacy and nostalgia, it brought something bold and entirely new It was about time. After seasons spent exhibiting just outside the Palexpo convention complex, the annual site of Watches and Wonders Geneva (WWG), Bvlgari finally debuted at the most important horological fair on the calendar in a manner that felt both overdue and undeniably fitting. WWG set the perfect backdrop to showcase a journey that started in 2014—the evolution of the Roman jeweller into a Swiss watchmaker, since adorned with ten world records, 13 revolutionary movements and a veritable lineup of groundbreaking novelties. Also fortuitous that this year would see Bvlgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin's appointment to the helm of LVMH Watches, succeeding Frédéric Arnault. Such a move affirms the brand's place at the forefront of the market, propelled by its distinctive DNA that blends Swiss innovation with Italian creativity. More from Tatler: The Arnault effect: how LVMH defines global luxury, indulgence and desire This inherent duality is profoundly expressed in its headline pieces at Geneva: a compelling study in contrast and harmony. Babin remarks, 'With the Octo Finissimo and Serpenti watches, we continue to explore new territories, to push the boundaries of design and fine watchmaking, and open new perspectives in horology.' Above Each watch reveals the prowess of watchmakers and engineers at Bvlgari (Photo: Courtesy of Bvlgari) Above The Serpenti is transformed once more (Photo: Courtesy of Bvlgari) Breaking a new record was simply inevitable for a Maison so devoted since 2014, when it launched its quest towards extreme thinness with the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon. With a hand-wound movement at 1.95mm thick—the world's slimmest flying tourbillon at the time—this piece propelled the collection that would become Bvlgari's calling card in modern timekeeping. With a slew of world records, the line has consistently fused minimalist design with micro- mechanical wizardry. 'Each record has been a stepping about redefining what's possible in mechanical watchmaking,' Babin comments. 'With each challenge, we've had to rethink not only traditional techniques but also how watches are designed and developed.' The latest chapter to this saga has now arrived with the new Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon. Measuring 40mm in diameter and just 1.85mm in thickness, it is the thinnest piece there's ever been with the desirable complication, and a fitting 'full circle' moment to the watch that started it all. Above The Octo collection has consistently broken world records (Photo: Courtesy of Bvlgari) The heart of this feat is the manual-wound BVF 900 tourbillon movement with a 42-hour power reserve. The degree of precision in the skeletonisation is integral and deliberate; with light expertly diffused throughout, nothing is hidden, and the margin for error is razor-thin. Exacting craftsmanship is not just expected but essential—a testament to Bvlgari's engineering prowess. Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, product creation executive director for the Maison, explains, 'Every detail, from the indexes to the tourbillon skeleton, bears witness to our commitment to excellence.' This is evident in the novelty's interplay of innovative materials. The calibre is housed within a tungsten carbide main plate, while the bezel, case middle and lugs are crafted from microbead-frosted titanium. Also in titanium, the seamlessly integrated bracelet is engineered to just 1.5mm in thickness, including the folding clasp, to ensure the ultra-thin profile remains uncompromised. Read more: Watches and Wonders 2025: 3 record-breaking timepieces Above Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon at just 1.85mm thick (Photo: Courtesy of Bvlgari) Above Key designer Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani (Photo: Courtesy of Bvlgari) The two planar crowns, subtly integrated into the case at 8 o'clock for winding and 3 o'clock for time-setting, are fashioned from circular-grained stainless steel; as is the ratchet, which features intricate geometric engraving that adds visual and tactile depth. For optimal legibility, rhodium-plated hands sweep over the sandblasted brass base in DLC anthracite coating, a matt finish that sharpens clarity while reinforcing the modern, high-performance aesthetic. Unlike its regulator-style predecessors, the Octo Finissimo Ultra and Ultra COSC, this execution unifies time display on a single dial, elevating both function and form. With this harmonious mix, Bvlgari delivers a watch that embodies mechanical complexity and minimalist sophistication in equal measure. Pure Elegance And what of its other release? Bvlgari continues to speak in the precise language of modernism, but also reveals its ancient tongue of seduction and perpetual rebirth. Serpenti Aeterna sees the Maison's iconic motif undergo its most daring transformation yet, distilled to its purest form. Above Serpenti Aeterna in rose gold (Photo: Courtesy of Bvlgari) No eyes, no scales, no artifice—only the serpent's most elemental form remains, in exquisite high jewellery. It's certainly a bold move for the Maison, while affirming its determination to always bring something new to the table. With the Aeterna, Bvlgari shows the world its glorious dance between yesterday and tomorrow, capturing the rich Roman heritage that precedes it and skillfully projects it into the future. 'I like to design in a pure, contemporary style, with few decorative elements—to draw lines that speak the language of eternity,' muses Stigliani. 'Octo Finissimo is a perfect expression of this quest for the absolute through form, which now transforms Serpenti.' Embracing the wrist in a single gesture, the Aeterna's fluidity is like a second skin with even greater sophistication. See also: Watches and Wonders 2025: Best jewellery watches from Chanel, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and more Above Serpenti Aeterna in white gold, a fully pavé model with green hands (Photo: Courtesy of Bvlgari) No detail slips past the brand's visionary modernity. The ingenious clasp mechanism, which demanded two years of development, achieves perfect aesthetic integration and comfort. Invisible from the outside, the iconic hexagonal scales are subtly etched into the inner contour of both variants: one in rose gold, kissed by a spattering of diamonds, and the other fully pavé-set in white gold. Precious gemstones illuminate the snow-set dial, extending along the spine to the very tip of the tail. The name 'Aeterna' evokes timelessness, a fitting moniker for this era when horological connections are more emotional than empirical. In the years ahead, the question won't be whether Bvlgari belongs in Geneva—it's how the rest of the industry keeps up. NOW READ World Watch Day: Horology celebrates global recognition on October 10, 2025 MB&F reimagines Bvlgari's iconic Serpenti LVMH Watch Week 2025: The best new watches
Tatler Asia
07-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Tatler Asia
What 2 watch collectors took away from Watches and Wonders 2025
Self-confessed Cartier watch nerd Nic James and TickTockBelle Stephanie Soh share their highlights from the Geneva watch fair With Watches and Wonders 2025 (WWG) still fresh in our minds, Tatler GMT reached out to Nic James, head of The Horology Club Malaysia, and Stephanie Soh, one-half of TicktockBelles in Singapore, for their thoughts on the fair from an enthusiast's perspective. Read more: Watches and Wonders 2025: Tatler GMT editors pick their favourite watches NIC JAMES What watch releases or trends stood out to you? Last year's event left me a bit underwhelmed. There were plenty of releases, but nothing that really grabbed my attention. As a collector, it came across like the industry was playing it safe. But this year brought back the wow factor. We saw new movements, interesting technology, better case proportions, and thoughtful updates that made the watches more wearable. It felt like the brands cared about what was happening under the hood, not just how the watch looked on the outside. I was genuinely excited, and that hasn't happened in a while. Which maisons made the strongest statements this year? Rolex really stood out to me. They launched the Land-Dweller with the new Dynapulse escapement, and that's a big move from a brand known for slow and incremental changes. Rolex doesn't often introduce entirely new models, so this was exciting to see. The engineering behind the escapement is interesting, and I'm curious to see how it performs over time. What excites me most is its potential— does this mean we will get to see a slimmer Submariner one day? Ulysse Nardin also impressed me. I've always appreciated the Freak, but the new Diver [Air] really excited me. The skeletonised diver can handle 5,000g of force and is water-resistant up to 200m. It's like Richard Mille technology that can be taken underwater. It wore so well too for a 44mm.
