Latest news with #TheUniformTintedMineralSunscreen
Refinery29
13-06-2025
- Health
- Refinery29
Why Can't Sunscreen Brands Be Honest About White Casts?
Welcome to Sun Blocked, Refinery29's global call to action to wake up to the serious dangers of tanning. No lectures or shaming, we promise. Instead, our goal is to arm you with the facts you need to protect your skin to the best of your ability, because there's no such thing as safe sun. When cosmetic scientist Dr. Julian Sass first tested Tower 28's new SOS FaceGuard SPF 30 Sunscreen on camera, his disappointment was obvious. Despite the 'no white cast' claim prominently displayed on the PR packaging, the sunscreen left a visible gray tinge on his skin. 'Marketing this as a no white cast sunscreen in 2025? It just makes me feel so undervalued as a consumer,' Dr. Sass said in the clip. 'What frustrates me is that some Black girl is gonna see the advertising about this product and think, Oh my god, they said it had no white cast. And then they're going to end up looking like this.' Dr. Sass's video, now at 54.3K views and climbing, sparked further debate after he highlighted that the marketing materials showed people applying too little sunscreen — a misleading move that compromises both transparency and safety. Tower 28 founder Amy Liu responded on Instagram, acknowledging they 'missed the mark' despite extensive testing. As a result, Liu promised to remove the 'no white cast' and 'universal tint' claims, standardize their testing process, and develop a new version of the sunscreen for deeper skin tones. This was welcome news to Tower 28 fans, but the brand isn't alone in making contested 'no white cast' statements. In addition to Dr. Sass, other skincare experts and beauty content creators have increasingly called out claims of invisibility that don't match reality. ' Entire groups of people are excluded from sun protection options because brands don't think it's profitable to include us. Cosmetic chemist Milan Scott ' Dija Ayodele, an esthetician and founder of the Black Skin Directory, recently tried Merit's The Uniform Tinted Mineral Sunscreen, which left her looking 'dull and gray' despite the brand's ' zero white cast ' promise. 'When I first received the press release, I asked to see evidence of the product on Black skin,' Ayodele tells Refinery29. She says the PR company sent her a video of a Black employee using the product, along with information about the brand's formulation process and challenges. Ayodele accepted the PR package based on this response. 'But if I'd bought that sunscreen, I would be quite cross,' she continues. Adding, 'While it's not the worst I've seen, it didn't meet my expectation of not having a white cast.' 'It's misleading to use those exact three words: zero white cast.' Beyond Tower 28 and Merit, brands like CeraVe and SkinCeuticals have also been called out for using terms like 'no white cast' and 'transparent' — claims that some content creators are now challenging. For consumers of color, these misleading claims are not just disappointing, they're exclusionary. So why, when the beauty industry operates under such strict regulations, do countless sunscreens still fail to deliver on their promises? Why do some sunscreens have a white cast? AJ Addae, chief executive officer and chemist of SULA Labs — which tests skincare for brands developing products for melanin-rich consumers — explains that when it comes to mineral sunscreens, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) only allows cosmetic chemists to use two UV filters: titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. Both are white pigments. Addae notes that at the concentrations needed to achieve a broad-spectrum SPF of 30 or higher, it's difficult — if not impossible — to create a mineral sunscreen that doesn't reflect visible, white light. As such, Dr. Sass explains that currently, a truly invisible mineral sunscreen doesn't exist on skincare shelves. So why are brands that use these filters so sure of their invisibility claims? Cosmetic Chemist Milan Scott says, 'What they really mean is that it's invisible on lighter skin tones.' She adds, 'When I see 'invisible' claims on a mineral sunscreen that is very clearly not invisible on people that look like me, it makes me wonder who [the brand] tested it on — and who approved these claims.' ' I think that brands need to do diversity and inclusivity authentically and be brave enough to say, 'This product isn't right for everybody because it creates a white cast. However, we do have other products within our offering that are suitable.' Dija Ayodele, esthetician and founder of the Black Skin Directory ' Dr. Sass explains that when brands make this claim, they typically conduct internal tests on individuals with lighter skin tones and often apply much less than the recommended amount needed to achieve the advertised level of protection. 'Sunscreen is tested at 2 mg per square centimeter of skin, which comes out to about 1/4 teaspoon for just the face and about 1/2 teaspoon if you include the ears and neck,' he says — the optimum amount to protect your skin. Esthetician and skincare expert Alicia Lartey — whose Instagram series Sunscreen or SunSCREAM puts the invisibility claims of SPFs to the test — agrees that clinical trials and SPF testing often lack the diversity they should. Frustratingly, Scott notes that there's no requirement for brands to test on a wide range of skin tones before making such claims. How do brands get away with claiming their sunscreens leave no white cast? Surprisingly, Addae notes that, unlike the term 'water resistance,' which requires standardized testing, there are no regulations around the term 'white cast.' The same applies to the word 'invisible,' says Scott. If a brand deems its sunscreen traceless based on its testing, it can label it as such, even if that's not true for darker skin tones. You're right to be outraged — and so are the experts: 'It's a marketing loophole that a lot of us in the industry side-eye hard,' says Scott. Ayodele has a hunch as to why: 'Brands are doing this because they want to be seen as inclusive at all costs,' she believes. 'They don't want the backlash of [people] saying that they're not inclusive. But if these brands tested their mineral sunscreens [on a more diverse range of people], they'd know whether they were invisible or not.' That said, it's important to acknowledge the limits of science, says Ayodele. 'Yes, of course, we want diversity and for brands to be inclusive, but by nature, the mineral filters titanium dioxide and zinc oxide aren't inclusive,' she says. 'That's not a problem because not everything is going to be,' she adds. 'Unless further scientific techniques are brought in to make these white mineral ingredients invisible, that's just where we're at.' Still, Scott emphasizes the need for more transparency and testing across shade ranges. Ayodele's advice to brands is simple: honesty is the best policy: 'I think that brands need to do diversity and inclusivity authentically and be brave enough to say, 'This product isn't right for everybody because it creates a white cast. However, we do have other products within our offering that are suitable',' she says. ' Frustratingly, Scott notes that there's no requirement for brands to test on a wide range of skin tones before making such claims ' TikTok would have you believe that mineral sunscreens are the gold standard. Ayodele acknowledges they have benefits — especially for sensitive skin and conditions like rosacea, melasma, or pigmentation — but stresses that more inclusive options exist. Chemical sunscreens, which use UV filters like avobenzone or oxybenzone, are suitable for everyone. Still, they've come under scrutiny, with some convinced that chemical filters are toxic while mineral ones are safe. This simply isn't true, says Scott: 'This fear drives people toward mineral sunscreens, even though many of them leave a visible cast on deeper skin tones and make sunscreens less accessible for folks who already deal with health disparities,' she says. Scott doesn't mince her words: 'This is what medical racism looks like in real time,' she continues. 'It's when fear-based marketing pushes mineral sunscreens as the safer option, even though those same formulas leave people with darker skin out of the conversation entirely.' So who's to blame? The experts point to the 'clean beauty' movement. 'Clean beauty has been an axe to scientific innovation,' says Lartey. 'Newsflash — everything is a chemical,' she adds, even water. In reality, chemical sunscreens are often more cosmetically elegant than mineral ones, making them a better option for people with darker skin tones seeking to avoid a white cast. R29 favorites include Glossier Invisible Shield SPF50, $32, The Ordinary UV Filters SPF45, $19, and Dr. Jart+ Every Sun Day™ Invisible Korean Sunscreen Stick SPF 40, $30, to name just a few. Does a truly invisible mineral sunscreen actually exist? For those who prefer mineral sunscreens, is a truly invisible option even possible? Scott believes it is. 'For a mineral sunscreen to be invisible on all skin tones, it takes advanced formulation with nano-sized mineral filters,' she explains — a process that's both expensive and time-consuming for brands. She adds that tinted mineral sunscreens offer another solution, but only a few brands, like Wyn Beauty, are getting it right. 'That's because too many companies still don't see the financial value in creating that many [products] to be truly inclusive for darker skin tones,' she says. And that's a real problem: 'Entire groups of people are excluded from sun protection options because brands don't think it's profitable to include us,' says Scott, who sees it as a public health issue. Ultimately, Lartey believes that brands can easily avoid messy situations like Tower 28's simply by testing products on a wide variety of skin tones — and actually using the correct amount. 'Beyond that, hire a diverse staff, listen to your diverse staff, and make sure there are diverse staff in senior roles,' urges Lartey. 'It's not that hard.'
Daily Mirror
02-06-2025
- Health
- Daily Mirror
I tried 3 tinted SPFs promising foundation coverage– one covered my pigmentation
Our head of beauty goes barefaced to test new tinted SPFs from Supergoop!, Beauty of Joseon and Merit... I have a confession: I don't like applying suncream to my face. I feel guilty even typing it, being a beauty editor and all. Don't get me wrong, I completely appreciate the importance of wearing it every day, and I will do it, but I've just never found the whole applying and wearing experience pleasant. Even formulas promising to be non-sticky, fast-absorbing and ultra-lightweight feel claggy or greasy to me. I just feel cleaner when I'm not wearing the extra SPF layer on my skin. But this year, after turning 32, I've really started to notice a change in my skin. Patches of pigmentation on my cheeks have started to appear, and I don't have that youthful glow that I've taken for granted my whole life. So, in a bid to keep my skin looking as healthy as possible for as long as possible, I've made it my mission to take daily suncare more seriously – because, as we all know, diligent SPF usage can ward off signs of premature ageing. I may be a little late to the 'I love SPF party', but I have picked a good year to become a devotee. I've seen more and more launches from SPF brands promising tinted coverage to rival foundations, water-light textures to rival your usual day serum, and pore-diffusing formulas that mimic a good primer. In fact, three landed on our Mirror beauty desk the exact week I made it my mission to find my perfect product in Beauty of Joseon's Daily Tinted Fluid Sunscreen, Supergoop!'s Mattescreen or Merit's The Uniform Tinted Mineral Sunscreen. Spoiler: One of them has indeed turned out to be juuuust right... A note before we start: I will just say that all of these SPFs can give a nice tint, but they won't ever be a foundation, and vice versa. SPF tests are based on applying 2mg per square centimetre of skin, which is a lot more product than most people use for make-up. So, I'm trying to find a tinted SPF that comes as close to a foundation as possible while still being very much an SPF. Supergoop's Mattescreen Sunscreen SPF30 Shop it for £36.50 Pros: Genuinely mattifying without feeling chalky or tight Smooth, silicone-primer-like texture that grips make-up Helps foundation stay in place all day Mineral formula with zinc oxide, ideal for sensitive or reactive skin Light tint that blends well and reduces white cast Doesn't pill under other skincare or make-up Cons: £34 price tag is on the higher side One universal shade made to blend with a 'broad range of skin tones' – but darker skin tones report it can give a slight ashy cast Matte finish may not suit those who prefer a dewy look SPF30 is good, but not the highest available (worth noting, though, that the brand has many other SPF50s) Zoe says: "I absolutely love this SPF because it feels like a primer, cutting down my number one issue with many SPFs: how greasy they feel. It actually reminds me of the Smashbox silicone-based primer I used to wear when I went out for a big night out and wanted to make-up to really last. I will keep wearing this under a foundation, but I think it's easy to see from my before-and-after shot that it doesn't offer much in the way of coverage. However, with only one universal tint shade currently available, there's no way it could be so tinted that it suits only one skin tone. I do like how it mattifies my skin, and it really doesn't feel like an SPF to apply, so it's hard to fault it for anything other than it being a factor 30 instead of 50 and not covering blemishes or pigmentation." Beauty of Joseon Daily Tinted Fluid Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF30 Shop it for £17 Pros The texture is super lightweight and serum-like Has a soft, natural finish that's not too matte or too glowy Comes with a sheer tint that gives a nice blurring effect No fragrance Available in 12 flexible shades The price is pretty reasonable, especially for something you'd use every day Cons SPF30 is fine for everyday use, but might not cut it if you're out in strong sun for long Doesn't shout about its UVA protection, which could be a worry if you're prone to pigmentation (like me) It's not the longest-lasting, on account of it being very sheer Zoe says:" When I first applied this, I was almost certain it wouldn't be for me. It's water-light, which is really lovely, but it's so sheer. For a girl like me who has a very shiny face anyway (read: oily), it made me feel like Edward Cullen from Twilight when he goes into the sunshine. However, once I let it settle in, it really grew on me. It genuinely feels weightless on my skin, and I love the shade choice available. From my photos, I can also see how much it evened out my skin tone, despite not giving much coverage in a typical base sense. I left this out for my 64-year-old mum to try, and she LOVES it. She says it makes her look so youthful. If you're looking for an anti-ageing tint, or you love the K-beauty 'glass skin' look, this will be for you." Merit Beauty The Uniform Tinted Mineral Sunscreen SPF50 Shop it for £34 Pros Feels lightweight on the skin, almost like you're not wearing anything Has a natural, satin finish– not too matte or too dewy Comes in 15 shades that are designed to adapt well to a variety of skin tones Uses 100% mineral zinc oxide for SPF 50 protection, and doesn't leave a white cast Made without silicones, oils, or fragrance, so it's a good shout for sensitive or acne-prone skin Sheer but buildable coverage that evens out tone without looking heavy or cakey Cons Can cling to dry patches if your skin isn't well prepped Some users have reported a bit of pilling when layered over certain moisturisers or serums At £34, it's definitely on the spendy side for a daily SPF Zoe says: "I teased earlier that I found my perfect SPF match, and this is the one I was referring to. I love it, and I never thought I'd say that about an SPF. I went a shade darker in the tint than I normally would in a foundation, and it gave me both the look of instant bronzing drops and a lightweight foundation. I felt like my skin looked healthier and smoother, and even my patches of pigmentation were covered. It's definitely lighter than a foundation, but it also meant I could skip a base layer. In fact, I tested layering it under my regular foundation, and I have to say it looks much better on its own. It's very quickly become my holiday, weekend and working from home go-to– and it's definitely worth the price."
Refinery29
23-05-2025
- Business
- Refinery29
Merit's Tinted Sunscreen Is So Good, It's Replacing Our Usual Makeup
All linked products are independently selected by our editors. If you purchase any of these products, we may earn a commission. Finding the perfect skin tint takes a lot of trial and error. A good one should offer lightweight coverage and a natural finish that subtly enhances your skin, without sitting heavy or erasing your features. Add reliable SPF protection (which can complicate the texture of the formulation) to the list of requirements, and the search gets even more challenging. So when Merit Beauty unveiled The Uniform Tinted Mineral Sunscreen SPF 45, $38, a tinted mineral sunscreen that offers both sheer and buildable coverage, not to mention broad spectrum UV protection, we were quick to take notice. This new launch is a labor of love from the brand by all accounts. It took two years of development and more than 50 formulation attempts to get the consistency and finish just right. The sun protection comes from zinc oxide, a mineral filter that shields against UV rays by scattering and reflecting them away from the skin's surface. Also featured in the ingredient lists are moisturizing plant-derived emollients (in place of heavy silicones) and ultra-fine natural powders for a weightless and even application. We got our hands on this highly anticipated launch and have been wearing it as our go-to SPF over the past month. Read ahead for our honest thoughts on why it deserves a top spot in your summer beauty routine. Jacqueline Kilikita, beauty director She tried: Merit The Uniform Tinted Mineral Sunscreen SPF 45, $38, in shade 24 'I don't say this lightly: this is hands down the best tinted sunscreen I've ever tried. It's replaced my foundation — and even my concealer. The texture is like a lightweight lotion, and whether I use my fingers or a brush, it melts into my skin easily, offering medium coverage that blurs dark circles and the marks left behind by breakouts. The finish sits in a cozy space between dewy and matte, so I don't need to powder over the top, and the staying power is excellent. I can go a full day at work — in office air, no less — and come home to more or less immaculate coverage. 'On my hand, shade 24 skews a little pink, so I was apprehensive it wouldn't suit my green undertones. But once on my face, it blends seamlessly into my light olive complexion, giving it a more uniform appearance without erasing my features. If I wanted to wear this on its own without blush or bronzer, I absolutely could, and it wouldn't look like I was wearing a mask. One thing to note: it's important to use a dedicated sunscreen first. Yes, this contains SPF 50, but it's well known that we rarely apply enough SPF makeup (a teaspoon or two finger-lengths for face and neck) to properly protect ourselves from UV damage. So I layer it over my trusty sunscreen — it's like insurance for my skin.' Venus Wong, senior writer Photo: Courtesy of Venus Wong. 'To me, the hallmark of a truly great sunscreen will always be whether I'm willing to wear it on an unbearably hot day. Anything that feels too heavy and icky breaks me out and will promptly get the boot. I took The Uniform out for a whirl on my recent travels around Asia, where temperatures hovered around 90°F with super high humidity, and I'm happy to report that it passed with flying colors. Out of all the sunscreens I've tried, this one has one of the most imperceptible textures. The carefully calibrated formula has definitely made a difference here; it feels very light and powdery and spreads evenly across the skin. There were days I almost forgot I'd put this on, if not for the flattering glow it imparts. For me, shade 22 provides the ideal level of coverage: just enough to neutralize redness and blur blemishes while maintaining a genuine skin finish. When it gets really hot this summer, I feel comfortable ditching all my other makeup and just wearing a layer of this tint, with my trusty Dr. Jart+ SPF stick as the final touch.' L'Oréal Blackett, Editor, Unbothered She tried: Merit The Uniform Tinted Mineral Sunscreen SPF 45, $38, in shades 10 and 12 Photo: Courtesy of L'Oréal Blacket. 'I'm not the easiest to please when it comes to skin tints with sunscreen. With a medium-deep skin tone and a golden to neutral undertone, some skin tints tend to leave me with a grey-ish, dull finish — a familiar story for anyone with brown skin. This is not the case with Merit's tinted sunscreen. This formula blends with my skin beautifully, slightly evening out my skin tone and leaving a fresh glow. It's barely perceptible and doesn't look like I'm wearing any makeup, but that's the point. It is very lightweight and perfect for everyday wear — I've even been wearing it to the gym. However, I still need to go in with a concealer as it doesn't blur my dark undereyes and blemishes. Vanese Maddix, contributing beauty writer Photo: Courtesy of Vanese Maddix. 'The Uniform has quickly become a staple in my routine. The formula is lightweight and blends effortlessly into the skin. As someone who prefers her skin tints and foundations to sit on the lighter side, this ticks all my boxes. While I typically dislike when brands describe their shade ranges as 'flexible', I was pleasantly surprised to find I could actually switch between shades 6, 8, and 10, depending on the look I wanted. I also appreciate that the deeper shades are numbered first (a thoughtful detail that didn't go unnoticed, and one I wish more brands would adopt). 'My only critique is the packaging: The tube has a gray-ish tint, which makes it harder to see the true shade without swatching. The cap also falls off quite easily. It's worth noting that the brand has created a shade range that corresponds with The Minimalist, its bestselling complexion stick, so finding your perfect match is a lot easier when you happen to own the latter. This product has shot straight to the top of my makeup bag thanks to its lovely finish and genuine lightweight feel. I wouldn't rely on it alone to meet my recommended SPF protection, but it has become my go-to for layering over a trusted sunscreen.' Tanyel Mustafa, senior writer Photo: Courtesy of Tanyel Mustafa. 'Let's start with the positives. This is a lovely formula. The tint gives just the right amount of coverage, and it dries down on skin while still appearing hydrated and fresh. I love how easy it is to apply with fingers. Where this product falls down for me, though, is in the very pink-leaning shade range. As a yellow-olive girlie, I found all of the shades I could make work too pink. Even the shade that corresponds to the Merit foundation stick I have (which I've used for years) is more pink. With this new product being a tint, the off-undertone shade isn't a dealbreaker. Once it's blended out with the rest of my makeup, it looks fine. But I wish I could apply this more confidently and without other makeup to offset the wrong undertone. Merit team, if you're reading this: The yellow-olive girlies would love a shade expansion!'
