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The Hindu
05-06-2025
- Entertainment
- The Hindu
From Anavila a collection that returns to her father's sugarcane fields
A chance encounter with a small, raw rendering of a khatwa appliqué, a traditional art form from Bihar and Jharkhand, at a Crafts Council exhibition in New Delhi drew designer Anavila Misra to Dumka in Jharkhand, and a group of young girls who had trained in the embroidery. Bringing them into her fold and refining their craft over the last few years, Misra was keen to provide a peek into their world. At the launch of her new collection, 'Sarmast', in Hyderabad, which also coincided with her brand's new outpost at Maison Isa, a boutique housed within The Leela hotel, a delightful khatwa wall panel of a forest stood as testimony to their collaboration. These were no textbook renditions or botanical illustrations. This was folklore, innocent and whimsical, with lush trees — identifiable by the way a branch curves, a leaf bends — sparrows pecking grains, a mother hen leading her chicks, and sheep and sprightly deer engaging with squirrels and peacocks. It was nature the way their forefathers saw it and rendered as art. It is these stories of co-existence — the traditions of craft and culture, the lives built around it — that is the foundation of not just Misra's work, but her DNA. Her late father, born into a humble farming community, chose to study and not pursue agriculture, she shares. He went on to become an accoladed dairy scientist. 'But as much as he left behind his village, the village never left him,' she recalls. 'We spent every vacation there playing in the sugarcane fields and stepwells. Morning walks with my father were slow and leisurely. He'd pick leaves and flowers, and delight in studying them.' Those walks now find permanent expression as a tattoo — a vividly inked image of Misra and her father Jagveer, strolling through sugarcane fields — on her forearm. Unhurried, mindful, exploratory, it is a moment in time that she aims for in everything she does. With curiosity leading the way Misra is often referred to as a textile explorer, but that would be to minimise the time and thought spent on the process of innovating and reinterpreting what exists, in her own language. Her recasting of the linen sari is one for the annals. 'In 2011, I set out to create a textile that was new. I had loved linen from the time I worked in menswear design, but it was not conducive to the flow and ease a sari required,' she reminisces. 'No one wove with linen yarn then, and my search took me to a weaver in West Bengal who wove linen stoles. So began my first collaboration.' Since then, linen has met zari, jamdani and more in its couture format, and been a staple in the boardroom for women leaders and CEOs. Fourteen years on, Misra has expanded her range from saris to occasion wear, contemporary, children's wear, and now home linen — all while staying committed to responsible creation and collaborative initiatives with artisanal communities. Her curiosity to learn has also taken her across geographical locations, from Bihar, Jharkhand, West Bengal, and Rajasthan, to her more recent sojourns in the Chettinad and Puducherry regions. And her travels have often informed her collections, including the 2024 'Payanam', which drew inspiration from southern architecture and textile, and 'ÉTÉ' that reflected the French and Tamil influence found in Puducherry. In the city of Nizams Hyderabad is Misra's next stop in her growth story. The new Anavila boutique opened with a showcase of 'Sarmast' (meaning 'poetically intoxicated' in Persian). The hotel lobby was reimagined as a Nizam's salon with tables draped in luxurious velvet, and chandeliers, including one sprawled on the floor in casual irreverence, spilling light over fruits and models alike. 'My research led me to the Basheerbagh Palace and two invitations made of textile and lace from [prime minister of hyderabad] Sir Asman Jahan Bahadur, for a dress-up party,' she says. 'Celebration and hospitality are integral to Hyderabad's culture, and from there came the theme for the show.' Her metallic drapes and dresses reflected a cross pollination of cultures, too. 'Our research came from images of Nilufer Hanimsultan and Durrusehvar Sultan, Ottoman princesses who married into Hyderabad royalty,' explains Misra, adding that floral motifs were borrowed from Rococo cornices and ceiling ornamentation of palaces such as the Falaknuma, while metallic zari linens and jewel toned silks were a nod to Baroque tapestries and brocades that furnished the spaces. For a minimalist home With the launch of her home line, Misra widens the body of her work while the soul stays aligned with her philosophy. Using kala cotton, linen, wool, and khadi, nature continues to play a central theme in the creations. 'Spaces are a part of our self-expression,' she believes. 'We had been exploring our home line for a few years, but were unsure if Indian homes were ready for our minimalistic aesthetic. Post COVID-19, we found that had changed, and customers were looking for a quieter ethos.' Her quilts, cushion covers, table runners, and napkins that sport kathwa, sujini, and prints echo this. People of the Forest This season, Misra's love of collectibles (remember the dolls, Busa & friends, which came about as an attempt to make saris more relatable to children who are seeing less of the garment in their daily lives?) take the form of hand-carved neem statues. They are a tribute to the Birhor, a nomadic tribe in Jharkhand. 'The Birhor hold a repository of ancient knowledge of the forests. Although efforts have been made to bring them into the mainstream, they prefer their natural home,' says Misra, who has been working with artisans from Jharkhand since the inception of her brand. British documentarian Michael York's work is another resource. Draped in sustainable textiles, the statues are a memory of a time that was slower, considerate and graceful. As she continues to travel and innovate, her goal is to introduce local culture, textile and craft into all her work. 'What I've learnt is that one can integrate external influences without losing one's history and identity,' she says. It will be interesting to see the Deccan and southern textiles and craft integrate further into her language. The freelance writer is a professional in the design space.


Skift
03-06-2025
- Business
- Skift
The Leela Has Soft Debut, but Now Has IPO Cash
The Leela did everything right - the product was impeccable and the marketing was on-point. But it might have been betrayed by the intimidating "largest-in-Indian-hospitality" IPO size. The Leela's parent company Schloss Bangalore debuted on the Indian stock exchanges Monday at INR 406 ($4.74) - 7% below its IPO price. By Tuesday's close, it had only modestly recovered. The muted investor response comes despite high anticipation for the $400 Million IPO of the luxury chain – the largest in the Indian hospitality industry. Other recent travel IPOs


Time of India
03-06-2025
- Business
- Time of India
The Leela is alloted plot in BKC for hotel
Mumbai: Schloss Bangalore (The Leela) has received MMRDA's allotment for a 2.1 acre commercial plot in Bandra-Kurla Complex (BKC) to set up a 250-room luxury hotel. The consortium backed by Brookfield Asset Management-backed Schloss Bangalore will pay the MMRDA a lease premium of Rs 1,302 crore for the plot. Tired of too many ads? go ad free now The hospitality company owns and operates the Leela Palaces, Hotels and Resorts and plans to develop a mixed-used project including a 250-key luxury hotel in BKC. According to a spokesperson, 25% of the total lease premium is payable within two months of the offer of allotment and the remaining 75% within 10 months thereafter. The possession of the plot will be handed over after payment of the total lease


Entrepreneur
02-06-2025
- Business
- Entrepreneur
Leela Hotels debuts at 6% discount, ends 7% higher at ₹435.55
Shloss Bangalore IPO ended 7.15 per cent higher on the BSE at INR 435.55 against the initial listing price of INR 506.50, a discount of 6 per cent on the issue price of INR 435. Opinions expressed by Entrepreneur contributors are their own. You're reading Entrepreneur India, an international franchise of Entrepreneur Media. Shloss Bangalore IPO ended 7.15 per cent higher on the BSE at INR 435.55 against the initial listing price of INR 506.50, a discount of 6 per cent on the issue price of INR 435. Brookfield Asset Management-owned Schloss, which operates 'The Leela' brand in the luxury segment in India, made what is described can be described as a 'subdued' debut on the stock exchanges. On the NSE, the stock was listed at INR 406, whereas in BSE it was listed at INR 406.50, less then the issue price of INR 435. The price band for the issue was INR 413-435 per share, with the lot size being 34 equity shares and in multiples of 34 equity shares thereafter. The company has allotted 75 per cent of the shares for QIBs, 15 per cent for 15 per cent for non-institutional investors (NII), and 10 per cent reserved for retail investors. Schloss Bangalore is known for its premium segment offering in the hospitality industry under 'The Leela' brand and currently operates 3,382 rooms across 12 properties. Schloss also raised INR 1,575 crores from its anchor investors. Priyanka Madnani, Founder & CEO of Terex Ventures, said that even with a strong brand like The Leela, Schloss Bangalore's listing at a 7 per cent discount shows that investors are becoming more careful. "Today, people don't just invest because of a big name, they want solid numbers, future growth, and clear returns. Hospitality is still seen as a seasonal play, and unless companies clearly show steady income and long-term value, investors will stay cautious. This is a reminder for all upcoming IPOs: a famous brand helps, but performance, transparency, and investor trust matter much more in today's market. Madnani added that the IPO, despite attracting decent interest, the weak listing was caused by a broader market dip and global worries. The issue was subscribed 4.5 times, despite possessing strong brand value, due to a cautious investor sentiment. In FY24, the hospitality company recorded positive growth, with its EBITDA at INR 600.03 crore, up from INR 87.72 crore in FY22. Market analysts also noted that the selling intensified due to foreign investors withdrawing funds. Aditya Birla Money Ltd, said that Schloss Bangalore also has a 'strong track record in driving operational efficiency backed by a strong promoter and is promoted by PE funds which are managed and/or advised by affiliates of Brookfield, one of the world's largest alternative asset managers and investors with over USD 1 trillion n of AUM as of FY25, across various asset classes. The company also has a track record of delivering superior EBITDA margins and increased RevPAR for its owned portfolio, driven by operational efficiencies Key institutions behind the listing include Investment bankers such as JM Financial, Morgan Stanley, BofA Securities, Kotak, Axis Capital, Citi, and SBI Caps. KFin Technologies was the registrar for the issue.


Time of India
02-06-2025
- Business
- Time of India
Leela hotels makes weak market debut, list 7% below IPO price
NEW DELHI: Luxury hotel chain Schloss Bangalore Ltd, which operates the iconic "The Leela" brand in India, made a subdued debut on the stock exchanges on Monday, listing at a discount of nearly 7% from its issue price. The stock listed at Rs 406 on the NSE and Rs 406.50 on the BSE , lower than the IPO issue price of Rs 435. The IPO was open for subscription from May 26 to May 28, with a price band of Rs 413 to Rs 435 per share. Despite strong brand value and expanding operations, investor sentiment remained cautious. The IPO, which was subscribed 4.5 times. As of May 2024, Schloss Bangalore operates 12 luxury properties across 10 Indian cities, with a total of 3,382 rooms under The Leela Palaces, Hotels, and Resorts. Indian benchmark indices Sensex and Nifty witnessed a sharp decline on Monday morning, influenced by negative trends across Asian markets and growing global trade worries. According to market analysts, the selling pressure intensified due to continued withdrawal of funds by foreign investors. The BSE Sensex index fell by 762.24 points to reach 80,688.77 during early trading hours. Similarly, the NSE Nifty declined by 212.25 points to 24,538.45. Stay informed with the latest business news, updates on bank holidays and public holidays . AI Masterclass for Students. Upskill Young Ones Today!– Join Now