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Wales Online
08-06-2025
- Business
- Wales Online
Owner of top Welsh restaurant forced to close down speaks out
Owner of top Welsh restaurant forced to close down speaks out Michelle Evans, who runs Paternoster Farm, and her family have been fighting for answers from the council Founder of Paternoster Farm Michelle Evans and her family are looking for answers after they were told they would have to move elsewhere as their tenancy at the farm had not been renewed (Image: Paternoster Farm ) The founder of an award-winning restaurant in Pembrokeshire has said she is "mentally exhausted" after she received news that it would have to close later this year. Paternoster Farm in the village of Hundleton, Pembrokeshire has been hailed as serving some of the very best food in Wales and has received rave reviews by the likes of The Good Food Guide, The Times, and Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall. It employs around 12 members of staff and sources tens of thousands of pounds worth of produce from local suppliers. For the latest restaurant news and reviews, sign up to our food and drink newsletter here. But last month its founder Michelle Evans confirmed the restaurant would have to close as their lease on the farm had not been renewed by its landlord Pembrokeshire County Council. Since receiving the news Michelle and her family have been fighting for answers from the local authority. The mother-of-two has expressed frustration at the council's handling of the situation, claiming they haven't provided her answers on why the business' future was abruptly cut short and offered to another party without consultation. "It's been mentally exhausting," Michelle said. "When I already had a full life anyway – the farm work, the restaurant, admin, and kids – this happens. Article continues below "I've got two kids who maybe we're not doing as much with them as we would normally try and fit in because I'm working on this. "I'm constantly writing something. I'm doing FOI (freedom of information request), then another FOI, and then another FOI. "It takes a lot out of you. I'm just exhausted by it all." The family have been at Paternoster Farm since 2016 after Michelle and her husband Leum decided to take over the small holding's tenancy for 10 years. Michelle started out with a beach hut, which focused on street food before deciding to start a business in the farm's former milking parlour. During the Covid-19 lockdowns Michelle initially opened a farm shop selling home-reared meat and pastries which then evolved into a restaurant. For the latest restaurant news and reviews, sign up to our food and drink newsletter here . Over time the business transformed a small farmstead into a hospitality destination which was featured in The Good Food Guide for three consecutive years and profiled in The Times, which described it as a "rural gem reinventing Welsh dining". During the Covid-19 lockdowns Michelle initially opened a farm shop selling home-reared meat and pastries which then evolved into a restaurant (Image: Paternoster Farm ) According to Michelle the family had "no doubt" the tenancy would be for a decade but when they asked Pembrokeshire County Council about the likelihood of renewing their tenancy after the first 10 years the council hoped there would be no issue. In an email exchange between Michelle and an asset manager for the council in April of last year, seen by WalesOnline, Michelle was told that there was a "lot of support" within the authority for the county farms and that they hoped that "any decision on a renewal would be favourable". In response to WalesOnline's query to this exchange a Pembrokeshire County Council spokesman said they had "hoped to be able to offer and provide a tenancy in one of [their] larger farms",but confirmed the "language used in correspondence with [their] tenant did not make that clear" and "may have given the impression that a renewal of the current tenancy at Paternoster would be possible". The restaurant has received rave reviews from The Times and The Good Food Guide (Image: Paternoster Farm ) Michelle explained that in November of last year representatives of the council came to inspect the farm and conduct a survey. She said: "They came out, they spent about two hours here – we walked the land, they looked at the livestock. "They were really happy with how the animals looked, happy how the land was. It was looking really good for that time of year." The conclusion of their visit did not come until four months later. "We heard nothing then until a letter arrived in February," Michelle said. "It was just this one paragraph saying: 'We're not renewing your tenancy. We're offering you a larger farm in Solva. Here's a map. Yours faithfully…'. That was literally it – one paragraph." Hundleton is around an hour's drive from Solva in Pembrokeshire. According to Michelle such a move would disrupt their business, livelihoods, and their children's education. Michelle said she has tried to get an answer on the council's decision not to renew their lease at Paternoster Farm. Michelle has sent a request asking for records including emails, reports, minutes, and transcripts of all meetings in regards to the decision not to renew the lease. But in response the local authority said they had searched their records and the information requested was not held by them. While Michelle feels frustrated by the council's response she also feels uncertain about the future. "It's the uncertainty of not knowing," she said. Michelle has said she feels 'mentally exhausted' and uncertain about the future following the news (Image: Paternoster Farm ) "We're obviously looking at alternative sites for restaurants and cafes because we'd be daft to just tread along fighting this but not have a Plan B. "I'm worried about money. The cost of having to move is going to be enormous. "It's a terrible time for restaurants as it is but the cost of moving a restaurant and establishing somewhere else, as well as the cost of being closed for that time, will be huge." But the recent news has also had an impact on Michelle's children and especially her 14-year-old daughter who has a passion for farming. "When she first found out she took it upon herself to write a letter to the farm's manager," Michelle said. "We didn't know – I didn't know about it until afterwards. "She hopped off the school bus in the village, got some stamps, and posted the letter. They didn't reply to her. "And then she was frustrated so she emailed and asked for a reply and that prompted the farm manager then to email me and say she'd written a letter and that they weren't going to reply because she was a child. I was furious." Michelle added: "She's really into farming. She works in the restaurant and she works every weekend with me. "And she really thought that, with the renewal, the next 10 years would be the start of her adult life here. "She thought she'd be farming with us. She's got her own sheep, she's got her own ducks, she sells her eggs and helps out with the lambing. "She's also only a few years away from GCSEs, which is another thing, because when the tenancy runs out she's only 12 months away from sitting her exams. As any parent would know that's not the time to be moving a teenager." Michelle and her husband Leum have launched a petition calling for a full and thorough review of a policy (Image: Paternoster Farm ) Following the news that their lease renewal was denied Michelle and her husband Leum have launched an online petition calling on Pembrokeshire County Council to conduct a full and thorough review of its County Farm Policy. Previously the county council said their proposals at Paternoster Farm were in line with the policy offering the tenancy to new tenants and providing "those who wish to farm a way of entering into the industry". But the petition argues that the policy is "not fit for purpose" as it does not support "farm diversification nor integration into the community". It continues: "If County Farm Policy does not support and encourage our type of farming enterprise, one which farms the holding to its fullest whilst caring for the land, farms regeneratively, provides employment, fosters community links, supports a wealth of local businesses, supports local schools, feeds farm produce to the community every single week of the year, then it cannot possibly be said to be fit for purpose." It later adds: "County Farm Policy lists its objective as facilitating entry into farming, and moving tenants up to larger farms, but to what end? "Has the authority actually considered who it aims to benefit, and why do they not seek to measure the success, or otherwise, of the policy? "It is all very well to seek to help new entrants into farming, but what are the authority really trying to achieve? Farming for farming's sake is not enough. The authority has to ask, who will benefit, and to what extent?" So far the petition has received more than 500 signatures. In response the county council has said the petition will be "fully considered" with the policy said to be due for a renewal next year. "The amount of support we've received is unbelievable," Michelle said. "I didn't expect it. I thought some people would be angry but everyone was really supportive." She added: "And that support continues with people signing the petition. Within less than two hours we got the 500 signatures that we needed to enable it to be heard by the full council. "I think the restaurant has eclipsed the farm and that's why there's been a bit of a pushback from people." Although no official closing date has been set Paternoster Farm is expected to remain open into the autumn with bookings made available through the restaurant's Instagram page and via For now Michelle and her family remain hopeful that they will get answers. "We've been here nine years," she said. "It's our home, it's our children's home. This place means a lot to us because we've made a huge success at the restaurant. "But at the same time had we known in advance that we'd need to move we'd have made quite different business decisions. "I'm not an unreasonable person. We could have made plans to move and I think, although it would have been difficult, we would have been okay with that as we would've kept other options open. "My issue is the way they've treated us – that's what it comes down to. "The fact that in November, when we spoke about renewal, they went away to do their report and made the decision and then came back in February and only had until March to give us notice if they were going to renew or not. "So it was right down to the last minute. And the way that letter was so unceremonious with one paragraph and no explanation." In response a Pembrokeshire County Council spokesman said: "Renewing the lease on a long-term basis would be contrary to the existing County Farm Policy which is designed to provide opportunity and movement up through the different-sized tenanted farms. Hundreds of people have signed the petition (Image: Paternoster Farm ) "In April last year we hoped to be able to offer and provide a tenancy in one of our larger farms in accordance with our policy; unfortunately, the language used in correspondence with our tenant did not make that clear and may have given the impression that a renewal of the current tenancy at Paternoster would be possible. "As part of our approach the E-petition will be fully considered in accordance with our petitions policy. "That will include a debate at council should there be sufficient valid signatures on the petition. The County Farm Policy is due for renewal next year and will therefore be reviewed in the near future; the petition contents will also be considered as part of this review. "The council supports and commends the contribution and success of the Paternoster Farm restaurant. "However extending the tenancy to facilitate the restaurant on a long-term basis would contravene the existing County Farm Policy; this aspect will be further reviewed along with the policy. "Any relevant information will be released to our tenant in accordance with our data control policies, freedom of information requests, and subject access requests as appropriate." Article continues below
Daily Record
01-06-2025
- Daily Record
Scotland's top six waterside dining spots to eat in the views this summer
Here are some of the best places in the country for al fresco dining. Summer is finally beginning, and so is peak al fresco season. To celebrate, the Daily Record has rounded up a selection of top outdoor dining venues across the country. When the mercury rises, nothing can beat a meal in the sun. Whether you live in one of Scotland's cities or a small town or village, there is no shortage of scenic restaurants and cafés that offer outdoor seating. Now that spring is at an end, now is the time to head out and enjoy some top-quality food and drink outside. The Daily Record has put together a list of stunning al freso dining spots all over the country, from Edinburgh to the Isle of Skye. 1. The Three Chimneys, Colbost, Isle of Skye The Three Chimneys is a world-renowned restaurant with rooms situated in an area of stunning natural beauty at Colbost on the Isle of Skye. Nestled along the shores of Loch Dunvegan, it offers incredible views out over the island's Duirinish peninsula. Dating back to 1985, visitors around the world enjoy the restaurant's dishes—including double-dived Sconser scallops from Loch Sligachan and locally reared lamb. Serving up fresh and local produce, the multi-award-winning restaurant is featured in both the Michelin Guide for Great Britain and Ireland and The Good Food Guide. More information can be found on the The Three Chimneys website. 2. The Three Chimneys at Talisker, Loch Harport, Isle of Skye The Three Chimneys and Talisker—Skye's oldest whisky distillery— have joined forces for this one-of-a-kind dining experience. Located at the distillery, along the shores of Loch Harport, it aims to celebrate Skye as a world-class food destination. The food experience offers locally sourced food and drink, with the menus inspired by Talisker Distillery's unique location on the Minginish peninsula. The à la carte menu for summer 2025 includes locally caught langoustines, oysters, mussels, and scallops. 3. The Pierhouse Hotel & Seafood Restaurant, Port Appin, Argyll This acclaimed eatery, which is situated within one of Argyll's most popular coastal hotels, is home to Scotland's Chef of the Year 2025. Situated on the edge of Loch Linnhe, it benefits from sweeping views out towards the islands of Lismore and Mull. Among the top choices on the menu are fresh langoustines, mussels, and lobsters harvested from Loch Linnhe and Loch Etive. Another highlight is oysters hand-picked from the nearby Loch Creran. 4. Plockton Inn, Innes Street, Plockton, Wester Ross The idyllic village of Plockton is often referred to as the 'Jewel of the Highlands', and the Plockton Inn is easily among its standouts. The recently refurbished restaurant and bar retains many original period features, though also takes contemporary inspiration from its gorgeous surroundings. The Plockton Inn is serving up a new seasonal menu that is full of fresh and local produce. Among the highlights is 'Plockton Prawns', which are landed daily just a stone's throw from the restaurant. More information can be found on the Plockton Inn website. 5. Kylesku Hotel, Sutherland, North Coast 500 Situated in the wild and rugged surroundings of Assynt in the far northwest of Scotland, the Kylesku Hotel is among the most scenic dining experiences found along the famous North Coast 500 driving route. The hotel's restaurant features an outdoor terrace that offers far-reaching views out over Loch Gleann Dubh. The menu at the Kylesku Hotel showcases the best of the Scottish Highland's larder. It features langoustines, crab, lobster, hand-dived scallops, and more. More information can be found on the Kylesku Hotel website. 6. Barry Fish, 62 The Shore, Leith, Edinburgh Tucked along Edinburgh's vibrant waterfront, this stylish fish restaurant showcases some of Scotland's best seafood. Diners can enjoy views directly into the open-plan working kitchen from the pass, as well as out over the Water of Leith from the comfort of the restaurant. The Low-Tide and Big Snacks menus include Barry Fish sea trout pastrami and Loch Fyne oysters, Eyemouth crab, sea bream, and sea bass ceviche. Meanwhile, the evening dinner menu includes shelled half lobster, as well as whole sea bass or bream.
Evening Standard
14-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Evening Standard
Too Many Critics: charity restaurant event returns to raise vital funds for Action Against Hunger
This year, Too Many Critics will take place at Roe in Canary Wharf, with the Standard's restaurant critic David Ellis returning for a third time, joining a line-up including Tom Parker Bowles (Mail on Sunday), Hannah Twiggs (Independent) and Kate Krader (Bloomberg). Alongside them will be Leonie Cooper (Time Out), CODE and The Good Food Guide publisher Adam Hyman and Molly Codyre (Foodism).
The Guardian
12-02-2025
- The Guardian
10 restaurants not to miss in Edinburgh – 2025's ‘most exciting food destination'
Edinburgh is having a foodie moment. Last week it was named the Most Exciting Food Destination for 2025 by The Good Food Guide. This week, the Michelin Guide Ceremony (Great Britain and Ireland) – held in Scotland for the first time – saw new stars awarded to Lyla and Avery, and new Bib Gourmand awards for Ardfern and Skua. The city is not immune from hospitality sector pressures, but there has been wave after wave of new openings recently, from casual cafes, pizza and taco bars to fine-dining, and everything in between. After seven years reviewing restaurants in the city, it's hard to narrow down my favourites … but here are 10 places that I'm always thrilled to eat at, for every budget. Few restaurants have claimed the heart of Edinburgh residents quite like The Palmerston. It's a bright airy space, a former bank branch transformed into an elegant easy-going restaurant. Sustainability and local produce guide the menus, with proper starters, mains and puddings. Settle in with a large plate of baked Berkshire pork shoulder, swede mash, January King cabbage, cider and sage (£27) with a glass of something delicious from the cellar. The weekday set lunch (Tues-Fri) is a steal (two courses £21, three courses £24). 1 Palmerston Place, This relaxed all-day cafe and wine bar from Edinburgh-born, award-winning chef Roberta Hall-McCarron is next door to her flagship restaurant The Little Chartroom. While the Chartroom is dreamy for a special occasion, Ardfern has become part of the fabric of Leith. The day begins with good coffee and fresh doughnuts (£4.50), pork belly brioche buns (from £6.50), and stacked hash browns (£8). Later, order barbecue aubergine tacos with sweetcorn, fermented chilli and feta (£13) or braised beef pie with beans (£20). 10-12 Bonnington Road, On cold days I daydream about hot hand-ripped noodles at Pomelo: chewy, spicy and singing with Sichuan peppercorns (£11.50). Chef Jun Au's vibrant take on modern Chinese cooking is fresh and fun with a small changing menu. Come for the noodles at lunchtime, or in the evening for family-style dishes to share (from £8.50). The windows steam up and you'll bump elbows with a neighbour, but I promise you won't care. 27 Sciennes Road, Every neighbourhood deserves a restaurant like this: one where you feel like an invited guest on every visit. This intimate family-run bistro has gorgeous views over Bruntsfield Links towards Arthur's Seat. On the menu you'll find the freshest Scottish seafood, cooked with creativity and care. Start with Shetland mussels (£12), then try sea trout with broccolini, olives, and wild garlic butter sauce (£20). 12 Barclay Terrace, Whether perched at the bar or tucked into a booth, Ka Pao feels like somewhere you can stay all night. Experimental small dishes are inspired by the flavours of south-east Asia, using Scotland's larder. A favourite is Arbroath smokie miang, with galangal, spinach and peanuts (£7.50) and the corn ribs with salted coconut, shrimp and lime are messy but addictive (£7). Take friends for the sharing menu to try as many dishes as possible (£30.50pp). St James Quarter, This bistro sets high standards for Japanese food in Edinburgh. There's a rustic feel to the space: exposed brick walls, rattan lights and fabric screens echoing ryokan walls. The food is incredible, the sashimi is light and delicate, arranged with precision and care, and always the highest quality (from £7). The £14.90 weekday lunch menu (and served 5pm-6pm) is unbeatable. 10 Gillespie Place, Sister restaurant to the Michelin-starred Timberyard, Montrose offers the same experimental approach to Scottish ingredients at a more affordable price. The award-winning drinks list includes low-intervention wines, and homemade bitters, liqueurs, vermouths and soft drinks. In the wine bar, order oysters and olives, then playful dishes like suyo cucumber, burnt vegetable dressing and egg yolk (£8). The weekend set lunch is a delicious demonstration of this kitchen's creativity (£20/£25 for two or three courses). Upstairs the restaurant is a more formal affair, also delightful (set menu £80).1-7 Montrose Terrace, If you're going to blow the budget in style: go to Lyla where Stuart Ralston – executive chef and owner of four restaurants in the city – is at the peak of his powers. Expect 10 delicate-but-dazzling seafood-focused courses from the open kitchen. A year since eating here I still recall tender cured plaice decorated with radish flowers, an individual exmoor caviar pearl in every bud; cured trout sashimi fanned into petals on smooth salty chawanmushi, with marigold, lemon and nori, and a fat langoustine wrapped in crisp pastry strands, dunked in burnt apple and sorrel ketchup. (dinner £165, lunch £65/£95 for five to seven courses).3 Royal Terrace, Edinburgh does cafes really well, with dozens of lovely spaces to while away an afternoon. Kitchen Table is one of the best, run by early Edinburgh sourdough pioneers Twelve Triangles. Pull up a mismatched wooden chair and order granola for breakfast with homemade yoghurt, berry compote, nut butter, and fresh fruit (£8.50), later perhaps a huge focaccia sandwich with black garlic roast aubergine, hummus, salsa and zhoug (£12.50). Co-owners Emily Cuddeford and Rachel Morgan have a cookbook out this spring and I dearly hope their Basque cheesecake (£6.50) has earned a page. 22-24 Easter Road, There's a soft minimal design to the interior at Eleanore, helping this small restaurant feel calm and relaxed rather than crowded. Think sleek lines, handmade ceramics and thick curtains, all allowing the focus to rest on the food, which is outstanding. There's a set menu, though do add the oysters. Recently, I loved a main of cod au poivre with creamed spinach and sweet roscoff onions, followed by Eleanore's cult Tirami-choux bun. (set lunch £38, dinner £70).30-31 Albert Place,
