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Daily Telegraph

Canberra Travel Guide: More than just Australia's capital city

Don't miss out on the headlines from Lifestyle. Followed categories will be added to My News. My first visit to Canberra was at age six. Kylie Minogue's Locomotion played on the cassette deck, and my sister and I played I Spy in the back seat of the family car to help pass the hours on the long drive from Melbourne. The Australian capital was a side note on the way to a beach holiday. We marvelled at tiny replicas of English villages at Cockington Green (before the international landmarks were added), were bored by the view from the top of Telecom Tower (now Telstra Tower), and Mum says we took a boat ride on Lake Burley Griffin that I don't remember. I didn't return for 35 years. But in those intervening decades, the city transformed: it grew up as I did. I've been three times in the past two years, including for a five-day holiday with my husband and four-year-old son. Call me a Canberra convert but there's so much to love, from its music and food festivals to its incredible galleries and museums, and don't get me started on the restaurant scene – chefs have abandoned posts in Melbourne and Sydney to move here. Aside from a nonpartisan tour of Parliament House, this is a pollie-free zone. With the federal election only days away, all eyes are on Canberra – don't worry, aside from a nonpartisan tour of Parliament House, this is a pollie-free zone. Here are three great ways to experience it. Culture Best time to go The capital bursts to life in spring, when fresh mornings make way for 19C days. In October, the city's longest-running music festival, Stonefest, rocks out on the University of Canberra lawns while the Canberra Writer's Festival (October 22-26) delivers author talks, master classes and panel discussions at some of the city's most famous addresses. What to do Canberra is a city brimming with cultural institutions and exhibitions. The National Gallery of Australia is home to a whopping 155,000 artworks by more than 15,000 artists, and houses the world's largest collection of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander art. Its Know My Name program celebrates female artists, who have traditionally been under-represented. To wit: in October, the gallery revealed its most expensive buy, a $14 million, 13-tonne outdoor sculpture, Ouroboros, by Lindy Lee. At the National Portrait Gallery, you'll find more characters that speak to our national identity. Across the road at the National Portrait Gallery, you'll find more characters that speak to our national identity, from Vincent Namatjira's Albert and Vincent (2024) to Margaret Olley's Self Portrait with Bottlebrush (1991). Prefer something a little grittier? A 20-minute drive west, in a converted 1920s homestead near the Murrumbidgee River, is Strathnairn Arts. The not-for-profit provides studios for artists and runs an art gallery and gift shop stocked with treasures on land overlooking the Brindabella Mountains. On your way back into town, stop by the Gallery of Small Things in Watson. Less than 6m square, Canberra's tiniest gallery was founded by local ceramicist Anne Masters and showcases emerging and established artists. It also has a well-curated gift shop and cottage garden. Head to Canberra Glassworks in Kingston and flex your creativity in one of their hands-on classes. Feeling inspired? Head to Canberra Glassworks in Kingston and flex your creativity in one of their hands-on classes. Learn how to make a bird or vase in less than an hour or sign up for a longer workshop in glass blowing or neon bending. Where to stay Arguably Canberra's coolest hotel, the dimly lit Ovolo Nishi combines sustainability with style in NewActon, on the southern edge of the city centre. All 85 rooms feature restored vintage furniture and original artwork. There's also a gym, self-service laundry and flexible check-in and check-out times. The lobby is happening from day to night, with a hair salon, lolly bar, and the popular Monster Kitchen and Bar. Arguably Canberra's coolest hotel, the dimly lit Ovolo Nishi combines sustainability with style. Picture: Supplied. Want something a little brighter? The 120-room Little National Hotel in Barton, a stone's throw from Parliament House and the major galleries, has floor-to-ceiling windows, super king beds and rain showers. The hotel's two public spaces, the lounge and library, are open 24/7 and have high ceilings and cosy fireplaces, where you can work or relax with friends. Tip: Cultural Attractions of Australia now leads premium, behind-the-scenes tours of Parliament House, which give you access to impressive artworks not usually seen by the public, including Arthur Boyd's Untitled (Shoalhaven Landscape), which formed the basis of the Great Hall Tapestry. It also gives you access to private areas such as the press gallery. Families Best time to go Alert the Easter bunny – Canberra is the place to be for the April school holidays. In autumn, expect mild days, cool nights and red and orange foliage. Questacon has been a favourite since it opened in 1998. Picture: Supplied. The National Folk Festival kicks off in Exhibition Park with more than 350 events, including food stalls, circus acts and live music. For a moving Anzac Day experience, visit the Australian War Memorial. What to do With easy-to-navigate streets, fewer crowds and loads of free activities, Canberra is a stress-free school holiday destination. Early-risers can burn off some energy at the Pod Playground at the National Arboretum Canberra where there are giant acorn cubbies, nest swings and banksia pods to explore. It's close to National Zoo & Aquarium, which offers encounters with everything from barking owls to cheetahs. Early-risers can burn off some energy at the Pod Playground at the National Arboretum Canberra. Picture: Supplied. Back in the centre of town, Questacon has been a favourite since it opened in 1998. The museum's eight galleries and more than 200 interactive exhibits prove science and technology are fun. Peer up at a giant sculpture of the moon; visit Earthquake House, a simulation of a 5.8-magnitude earthquake; or see a colony of 10,000 European bees at work. Mini Q is a purpose-built space for kids aged up to six years that includes a construction zone, water play and more. Rather pretend you're a giant? Drive 20 minutes north to Nicholls, where you'll find Cockington Green Gardens. Stroll past tiny replicas of international landmarks such as India's Red Fort and England's Stonehenge. After lunch, wander down the road to the National Dinosaur Museum to see huge fibreglass dinosaurs, including a 6m-tall T rex. Where to stay The stylish East Hotel in Kingston has a two-bedroom apartment that connects to a studio room called the Kids Cubby, which sleeps up to five (or seven with additional bedding). It has a kitchenette and two bathrooms, plus bunk beds, an Xbox and minibar stocked with kid-approved treats. Wander down the road to the National Dinosaur Museum to see huge fibreglass dinosaurs, including a 6m-tall T rex. Picture: Supplied. Kids also have their own amenities and board games at the Burbury Hotel in Barton, which is walking distance from Questacon, Parliament House and more. The hotel's VIP Kids package includes a stay in a one- or two-bedroom apartment with kids' tents, activity packs and – drumroll – a popcorn machine. Adults will love the free undercover secure parking, Chromecast and access to the luxe Hale Gym. Tip: Save on entry fees with a Gold Creek Adventure Ticket. One ticket provides access to three or four venues, including the Canberra Reptile Zoo, National Dinosaur Museum and Cockington Green Gardens. Food and wine Best time to go Between June and August, when temperatures average between 1C and 12C, gourmands descend on the capital to enjoy the spoils of the winter season: truffles. The Truffle Farm hosts one of Canberra's most memorable winter experiences. Picture: Supplied. Sample the region's prized black Périgords at markets and restaurants all over town, join a truffle hunt, or head to the annual festival dedicated to the delectable fungus. What to do Canberra has more hatted restaurants per capita than any other Australian city, along with secret bars (cheers, High Jinks), high teas (The Marion), street vans (Mandalay Bus) and food tours (Eat Canberra Food Tours). Not to mention the Canberra District wine region, about 30 minutes from town, which is home to more than 40 wineries. Sip a shiraz-viognier at The Vintner's Daughter in Murrumbateman, or enjoy a long lunch at Pialligo Estate's Pavilion Restaurant, led by ex-Cumulus chef Mark Glenn. Closer to the city, The Truffle Farm hosts one of Canberra's most memorable winter experiences. Step into an oak and hazelnut grove and watch a trained labrador unearth truffles. Then head into the restaurant for a three-course brunch or seven-course dégustation by chef Kanharith Kim, who honed her craft alongside Peter Gilmore at Quay. Périgords also find their way onto Sean McConnell's modern Aus menu at Rebel Rebel in New Acton – often in the form of a rich parmesan and black truffle doughnut. The recently revitalised Red Hill Lookout serves up Italian fare and some of Canberra's best views at Lunetta. Picture: Supplied. Still hungry? The recently revitalised mid-century Modernist landmark at Red Hill Lookout serves up Italian fare and some of Canberra's best views. The laid-back Lunetta Trattoria occupies the ground floor, while the more elevated Lunetta is upstairs. If Bhutanese dumplings, Korean fried chicken and bubble tea are more your scene, head to the new food precinct Eat Street DKSN in Dickson. End on a sweet note, with a visit to award winning artisanal chocolatier Jasper and Myrtle Chocolates in Fyshwick. Where to stay With access to the city's finest spas and gyms, the 163-room Hotel Realm in Barton is modern and elegant with great dining, including European bistro Louis, and Ostani's tapas and woodfired pizzas. Also in the Realm Precinct is wholefood café Maple + Clove; casual Greek, Lebanese and Turkish fusion restaurant Med; and pan-Asian institution Chairman & Yip. Braddon is a gastronomic hotspot, where you can get upscale homemade pasta at Italian & Sons. Picture: Supplied. Braddon is a gastronomic hotspot, with everything from upscale homemade pasta at Italian & Sons to bao burgers at buzzy Lazy Su. The moody 199-room Midnight Hotel is about a five-minute walk from the suburb's hottest tables. Rooms come with rain showers, custom artwork and a free minibar. Between meals, hang out in the hotel sauna, gym or 20m indoor pool. Tip: On the banks of Lake Burley Griffin, the hatted Water's Edge is favoured by politicians, diplomats and celebrities. The must order dish from their modern Australian menu? Honey-spiced duck breast with macadamia purée, stone fruit and coffee jus. For a truly special experience, book one of their four heated outdoor dining domes, for two to 14 people, and dine under the winter stars. Originally published as I went to Canberra for the first time in 35 years, now I'm a convert