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Calgary Herald

Chorney-Booth: Edmonton's Bodega by Sabor makes its Calgary debut

In Edmonton, Lino Oliveira and Christian Mena are restaurant superstars. The duo's Sabor restaurant is a longtime favourite among lovers of Portuguese food, and their more casual Bodega by Sabor tapas concept has grown into a small but mighty empire. When it comes to succulent Portuguese and Spanish-inspired food, Edmontonians have been exceedingly fortunate to have Oliveira and Mena providing them with as much paella and bacon-wrapped dates as a city could desire. Article content Article content Article content Article content Article content Oliveira and Mena have had their sights set on a Calgary expansion for years – a goal they've finally realized with a new Bodega location in the heart of Mission – but like everything else they've done, the move had to come naturally. Sabor itself was decades in the making: after growing up together as childhood best friends, Oliveira (who is originally from Portugal) and Mena (originally from Chile) took some big swings to pursue their dreams. Oliveira ended up back in Portugal cooking at a small seaside restaurant while Mena, a gifted singer and actor, found success fronting a Latin-funk band and starring in a touring production of Rent alongside Neil Patrick Harris. But as exciting as those personal pursuits were, both men eventually found themselves lured back to Edmonton and a new dream of running a restaurant together, focused on Oliveira's versions of Spanish and Portuguese classics. Article content Article content Article content Sabor opened in Edmonton in 2008, and through a gift for hospitality and sheer grit and determination, Oliveira and Mena built it into a local special occasion favourite. Bodega happened, they say, almost by accident when they created a small bar area within Sabor for guests to grab a drink before dinner. Tapas culture – the art of socializing over drinks and a small bite or two – is a strong tradition in Spain (the slightly different Portuguese version is called petiscos) and Edmontonians embraced Sabor's add-on so enthusiastically it turned into a restaurant of its own, eventually expanding to encompass six locations in and around the provincial capital. Article content Article content Each Bodega has its own bit of local flair, and the 50-seat Calgary location is no exception. Situated in an old brick building that was most recently home to Bincho izakaya, the physical space provides a rustic vibe to complement the restaurant's classic Mediterranean fare. The one thing every Bodega location has in common is a signature sculptural 'white wall,' a collage of mounted knick-knacks and thrift store finds, all painted a dramatic flat white. Eclectic light fixtures also dangle from the Calgary restaurant's ceiling, and there is plenty of wood and tile, all giving the impression that the new restaurant has existed exactly as it appears for years.