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Why Vintage Watches Were Smaller — And Why That Still Matters
Why Vintage Watches Were Smaller — And Why That Still Matters

Time Business News

time2 days ago

  • General
  • Time Business News

Why Vintage Watches Were Smaller — And Why That Still Matters

In today's world of oversized divers, hulking chronographs, and statement pieces that stretch past 45 mm, picking up a vintage men's watch from the mid-20th century can feel… surprising. A 33 mm case? For many, that might seem closer to a child's watch than a man's. And yet, from the 1930s to the 1960s, this size wasn't unusual. It was the standard . So what happened? Why were watches smaller for so long, and what does that say about design, culture, and our evolving expectations? Let's rewind. Before the 20th century, men didn't wear wristwatches. Timekeeping was handled by pocket watches — thick, hefty, and often ornately engraved. Wrists were considered a feminine domain. A man pulled his time from his vest pocket. That changed during World War I. Soldiers needed a way to check the time quickly without fumbling with a chain. The solution? Strapping pocket watch movements to leather bands and wearing them on the wrist. These field-expedient 'trench watches' became standard issue. From this wartime necessity came a new norm: the wristwatch. For the first time, men embraced timepieces worn visibly — but early designs had to remain compact, both for practicality and engineering reasons. From the 1920s through the 1960s, a typical men's watch measured between 31 and 36 mm. Today that may seem small, but back then, it was all about proportional design. Think about wrist anatomy. The average male wrist measures around 18.5 cm in circumference. The flat top of the wrist — where the watch sits — is approximately 30 mm wide. So a 34 mm watch? Perfectly centered, sleek, and unobtrusive. At the time, a wristwatch wasn't designed to dominate your outfit. It was a complement — a subtle detail, like a pocket square or cufflinks. The goal wasn't to stand out, but to complete the look. And in this, vintage watches excelled. Consider the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 96, released in 1932 at just 31 mm. Or the Rolex Datejust, which launched in 1945 at what was then a bold 36 mm. These were not small watches — they were proportionate watches. Even utilitarian pieces stuck to the formula. The U.S. Army A-11 was just 32 mm. The original Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, considered one of the first true dive watches, came in at 37 mm. And when Yuri Gagarin made history as the first man in space in 1961, he was wearing a 33 mm Sturmanskie. There was a practical reason behind all this modesty. Watchmaking in the early 20th century was still perfecting miniaturization. Taking a pocket watch movement and adapting it for the wrist meant downsizing components without compromising performance. A smaller case forced movement makers to be efficient — and that efficiency became a badge of honor. Self-winding mechanisms and complications like chronographs did push cases slightly larger — into the 36 to 38 mm range — but anything over 40 mm was almost unheard of. One notable exception, the IWC Portuguese from 1939, measured 43 mm. But that was only because it used a full pocket-watch movement. It was the outlier, not the trend. Flash forward to the late 1990s and early 2000s. Suddenly, the fashion world embraced big . Watches exploded in size: 42 mm, 45 mm, even 48 mm cases became not just acceptable, but desirable. A combination of things. Fashion became more maximalist. Marketing campaigns celebrated bold, statement-making pieces. And celebrity culture took over: Stallone wore Panerai, Schwarzenegger partnered with Audemars Piguet, Jay-Z championed Hublot. Bigger was bolder. And bolder sold. Watch brands responded. Panerai's 44 mm Luminor became an icon. The Royal Oak Offshore hit 42 mm and kept growing. Rolex released the Deepsea Sea-Dweller — 44 mm wide and nearly 18 mm thick. For a while, bigger meant better. And yes, some technical watches needed more space — for helium escape valves, multi-day power reserves, or flyback chronographs. But often, the extra size was mostly empty. Tiny quartz movements floated inside oversized steel. Still, the appeal was obvious: oversized watches demanded attention. They didn't whisper sophistication. They shouted wealth, power, and presence. But over time, the novelty wore off. Oversized watches began to feel impractical. Heavy. Top-heavy. Impossible to wear under a shirt cuff. And more importantly, they didn't fit. Collectors started to rediscover vintage watches. Not just for their history or patina — but for how they wore . A 34 mm Seamaster sat perfectly on the wrist. A 36 mm Datejust slid under a cuff effortlessly. People realized: small watches weren't outdated. They were refined . In 2017, Paul Newman's personal Rolex Daytona sold for $17.8 million. It was just 37 mm. In a world obsessed with massive chronographs, that was a reminder: size isn't everything. Fashion followed. Men's style leaned retro — looser tailoring, vintage influence, elegant silhouettes. Suddenly, a massive diver didn't quite match your tweed sport coat. The industry responded. Tudor launched the Black Bay Fifty-Eight at 39 mm. Omega reissued its 1957 trilogy — Speedmaster, Seamaster, Railmaster — in vintage proportions. Even Cartier, Longines, and Breitling embraced smaller cases. And on the red carpet, actors like Paul Mescal, Jacob Elordi, and Timothée Chalamet began wearing vintage watches under 36 mm. In 2025, Chalamet famously wore two 33 mm Cartier Tanks on the same wrist — and made it look fresh. Today, the stigma around small watches is gone. You can wear a 36 mm Explorer I, a 33 mm Omega De Ville, or a 34 mm Poljot and still be the most stylish person in the room. Size no longer defines masculinity or fashion sense. Vintage watches are proof: elegance doesn't have to be loud. Sometimes the most powerful presence is the quietest one. At Dumarko, we've always believed in balance. Proportion. Wearability. Our collection celebrates the 31–36 mm range because we know that a truly great watch isn't about dominating the wrist. It's about belonging on it. And once you wear one, you might just realize — small isn't a compromise. It's the legacy of timeless design. TIME BUSINESS NEWS

Why now may be the best time to buy a luxury watch
Why now may be the best time to buy a luxury watch

Miami Herald

time15-06-2025

  • Business
  • Miami Herald

Why now may be the best time to buy a luxury watch

I absolutely love my luxury watch. It's a two-toned Rolex Datejust with a mother-of-pearl dial - timeless and beautiful. My mom gifted it to me for a big birthday after carefully hunting for the perfect piece in the secondary market. She told me that buying pre-owned was the smartest way to shop for a watch like this. You could find iconic designs, often at better prices, while skipping the long waitlists and hype around new releases. Related: Cartier shares problem with Dior, North Face, Victoria's Secret That advice has stuck with me. And now, for anyone eyeing a luxury timepiece, the secondary market may once again be the smartest place to look, at least if you act soon. Even today, that watch sits proudly on my wrist and reminds me of the thrill of being given something special and of the power of buying pre-owned. Luxury watches carry more than just status or craftsmanship. For many buyers, they mark major life milestones or personal achievements. The pre-owned market has opened the door for more people to participate in that world, without the waitlists or price tags attached to brand-new pieces. But like any market, timing matters. After years of declining prices and sluggish sales, the secondary luxury watch market is showing signs of a rebound. A new report from Cognitive Market Research found that global secondary watch sales rose about 10% in 2024. Analysts believe prices may have bottomed out, hinting that value is beginning to climb again. That's a major shift after a period when pandemic-fueled demand caused a surge in resale prices, followed by a steep cooldown. Related: Gucci, YSL owner pushes back on tariff threats Popular models from Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet saw resale values drop sharply over the past two years, which kept many buyers on the sidelines. But the latest data suggests buyers are starting to return, and with them, larger competition for sought-after pieces. For shoppers, this could represent a rare window of opportunity. Prices are stabilizing, but haven't yet returned to their previous highs. That means it may still be possible to find deals if you move quickly. It's also a key moment for watch owners. If the market continues its rebound, values on pre-owned pieces could appreciate in the months ahead. Luxury resale platforms like Chrono24 are already reporting an uptick in interest and activity. And with the secondary market moving again, both buyers and sellers should be watching closely. And the market has room to grow. Cognitive Market Research projects the global pre-owned luxury watch market will reach approximately $43.65 billion by the end of the decade, up from about $26.83 billion in 2024. For buyers hoping to score a dream piece, acting now may be the wisest move. For sellers, this emerging momentum is worth watching closely. Related: Luxury outerwear brand avoids tariffs as rivals try to exit China The Arena Media Brands, LLC THESTREET is a registered trademark of TheStreet, Inc.

Bad date? Broward woman jailed for $30K jewelry heist at Miami Beach hotel: cops
Bad date? Broward woman jailed for $30K jewelry heist at Miami Beach hotel: cops

Miami Herald

time22-05-2025

  • Miami Herald

Bad date? Broward woman jailed for $30K jewelry heist at Miami Beach hotel: cops

A Pompano Beach woman is behind bars in connection with the theft of a Rolex watch and a diamond bracelet worth a combined $30,000 after cops say a man reported waking up to find his jewelry missing following a night out in Miami Beach. According to Miami Beach police, the incident occurred April 21 at the Fontainebleau Hotel. The victim told officers he returned to his hotel around 4:30 a.m. after a night out and met an unknown woman in the lobby. The two began talking, and she accompanied him back to his room. Once inside, the woman — later identified as Angelina Chenel Esty, 25 — served him drinks, according to her arrest affidavit. The man said he took off his Rolex Datejust and diamond bracelet, placing them in his jacket pocket. After consuming the drinks, he passed out. He awoke around 8 a.m. to find Esty gone — along with the watch and bracelet, valued at $20,000 and $10,000. Police reviewed security footage and found fingerprints linking Esty to the hotel room. The victim later confirmed her identity in a photo lineup. A warrant was issued, and Esty was arrested on Monday by Doral Police for a separate grand theft case involving another stolen Rolex watch. She's also a suspect in a similar ongoing investigation by Miami Police. Esty's arrest is similar to a broader pattern of so-called 'bad date' scams — cases in which women allegedly target men wearing expensive jewelry, gain their trust, and then drug and rob them in private settings. Earlier this month, another woman, Rachel Marie Warner, 23, of Las Vegas, was arrested in a nearly identical case. READ MORE: Las Vegas woman arrested in Miami after robbing man of $18K Rolex, cops say On April 8, a man met Warner outside the East Hotel in Brickell and invited her to join him for drinks at the rooftop bar Sugar. They later returned to his hotel unit, where Warner reportedly made him a drink. After consuming it, he blacked out and woke up to find his $18,000 Rolex missing, and his phone tampered with. Security footage showed Warner leaving the hotel alone around 3:30 a.m. Detectives tracked her down weeks later and found two bottles containing a suspicious white liquid in her purse. Warner was hit with multiple charges, including burglary, grand theft and possession of a controlled substance. Esty is charged with second degree grand theft. Jail records show she remains at Turner Guilford Knight Correctional Center as of Tuesday afternoon on a $7500 bond.

Bad Bunny's vintage luxury watch collection, from Rolex to Cartier: the Puerto Rican rapper wore an Audemars Piguet to the Grammys and a Patek Philippe for his GQ shoot … both ladies' watches
Bad Bunny's vintage luxury watch collection, from Rolex to Cartier: the Puerto Rican rapper wore an Audemars Piguet to the Grammys and a Patek Philippe for his GQ shoot … both ladies' watches

South China Morning Post

time22-04-2025

  • Entertainment
  • South China Morning Post

Bad Bunny's vintage luxury watch collection, from Rolex to Cartier: the Puerto Rican rapper wore an Audemars Piguet to the Grammys and a Patek Philippe for his GQ shoot … both ladies' watches

Puerto Rican superstar and 'King of Latin Trap' Bad Bunny is in a league of his own when it comes to style. With nearly a decade of chart-topping hits under his belt, he's not only become the face of Latin hip-hop and reggaeton – he's looked the part every step of the way. He is known for his bold, genre-blurring style and his wardrobe reads like a visual mixtape: gender-fluid silhouettes, head-turning statement pieces and era-hopping references that span Y2K, 1970s glam and old Hollywood elegance. Bad Bunny at the 2025 iHeartRadio Music Awards in Los Angeles, in March. Advertisement That fearless approach extends to his watch collection. Like his fashion sense, it's not about the price tag or even exclusivity – though let's be real, he has access to the rarest timepieces out there. No, for Bad Bunny, 31 – real name Benito Martínez Ocasio – it's about the story, the unexpectedness, the cool factor. He's just as likely to wear a classic women's watch , with numerous vintage Cartiers, Pateks and Audemars in his collection, as he is a flashy status symbol. Here are some of Bad Bunny's most elegant and eclectic luxury-watch moments. Rolex Day-Date 'Wood Dial' The 'Wood Dial' Rolex Day-Date is a throwback to the 1970s. Photo: Handout Bad Bunny's preference for the unusual over the obvious shines through with this unexpected Rolex. Rather than opting for the flashiest model in the case, he chose a vintage Rolex Day-Date, a rare late-1970s reference with a wooden dial, reports GQ. It's a throwback that speaks to the era of wood-panelled cars and shag-carpeted dens, and feels right at home for someone who has never shied away from retro aesthetics. Custom Rolex Datejust on Chrome Hearts Bad Bunny performing at the 2023 Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival, California. When Bad Bunny made history at Coachella 2023 as the first Spanish-language artist to headline on the festival's main stage, the moment deserved something outstanding – and he delivered. He wore a rose gold Rolex Datejust, custom-modified by LA jewellery design house Shay Jewelry, who added rubies to the dial and replaced the original strap with a diamond-studded chain link bracelet by luxury fashion label Chrome Hearts. Cartier Santos 'Carrée'

Young Thug's jewelry seized during raid going back to rapper, jewelry company
Young Thug's jewelry seized during raid going back to rapper, jewelry company

Yahoo

time28-02-2025

  • Yahoo

Young Thug's jewelry seized during raid going back to rapper, jewelry company

A Fulton County judge signed an order for the state to release jewelry seized during a raid at rapper Young Thug's house. Channel 2 Action News has been following developments in the rapper's case since his arrest in May 2022 as part of a sweeping gang indictment. [DOWNLOAD: Free WSB-TV News app for alerts as news breaks] Earlier this month, Young Thug, whose real name is Jeffrey Williams, filed a motion to get back $149,426 in cash, as well as expensive jewelry and luxury cars. New court documents show that Judge Paige Whitaker signed a consent order after the state, Young Thug and jeweler Rafello & Company agreed that the jewelry would go back to the parties. The items include: Rolex Datejust watch; 'King Slime' engraved on rear; Diamond cross pendant (approx. 17 grams); Necklace with circular and square green jewels (approx. 83 grams); Diamond double row tennis necklace; Two (2) diamond stud earrings (approx. 7 grams) and (approximately 4 grams); Diamond ring with 13 diamonds on band (approximate total weight of ring: 18 grams) No ruling has been made yet on Young Thug's cash and cars. RELATED STORIES: Young Thug set to headline festival in first performance since release from jail After Young Thug trial, Georgia lawmakers introduce bill to limit use of lyrics, art in court cases Young Thug now allowed to travel through Atlanta airport as part of his probation Young Thug released: What's included in rapper's non-negotiated plea in YSL trial? [SIGN UP: WSB-TV Daily Headlines Newsletter]

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