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Irish Examiner
24-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Irish Examiner
Experiencing the light-filled landscapes of Provence that inspired Cézanne's works
It is quite astonishing to realise that a painting few people wanted to buy a little over a century ago is now worth a quarter of a billion dollars. Paul Cézanne's The Card Players became the most expensive piece of art in the world in 2011 when it was bought by the Qatar royal family for $250m. It has since been overtaken by two other masterpieces, Willem de Kooning's Interchange for $300m in 2015 and Leonardo da Vinci's Salvator Mundi for $450m in 2017. But that hardly diminishes the magnitude of what The Card Players achieved — a painting from 1890-'92 of two of Cézanne's humble estate workers playing at a table in a dark room. Cézanne, along with other contemporary impressionist and post-impressionist artists like Vincent Van Gogh, was not appreciated in his time. But unlike the Dutch genius, Cézanne did not die in poverty. His father, Louis-Auguste, was a successful banker who gave his son an allowance enabling him to follow his dream of becoming a painter. And he and his two sisters, Marie and Rose, inherited the family estate, Jas de Bouffan. But despite producing countless paintings of the surrounding countryside, he was never accepted in his hometown of Aix-en-Provence which refused to exhibit his work. Now a further ignominy has been discovered. Jas de Bouffan, where he lived for 40 years, is currently being restored for its first ever public opening which will coincide with a landmark exhibition of his work, Cézanne at Jas de Bouffan, from June 28 to October 12. Cézanne Paul (1839-1906). États-Unis, Chicago (IL), The Art Institute of Chicago. 1942.457. During the renovation, workers discovered an unknown painting on an inside wall of the house — under a layer of white paint. Someone who owned the beautiful period home after Cézanne's time was so unimpressed by the fresco they simply painted over it. Initial signs suggest it is a scene of boats on a river and it is now being restored. The grand salon of the house was once covered in Cézanne's frescos. But when the artist started to become recognised years after his death the paintings on plaster were cut from the walls, put in frames and sold around the world. We are on a tour of the estate and work is still busily going on for the grand opening. Piles of calade, large pebbles native to Provence, are ready for cobblestone-style groundwork, ditches are dug for power cables, and a large reservoir, which looks like a swimming pool, is to be cleaned. A beautiful alley of trees is much like it appeared in Cézanne's The Allée of Chestmut Trees at the Jas de Bouffan. The estate, once in the countryside, is now surrounded by urban development. Mont Sainte-Victoire, Cézanne's beloved mountain which he painted no fewer than 77 times, and which was once clearly visible from the property, is now hidden from view. We are lucky to be the first recent visitors to the estate — it used to be by appointment only — which was taken over by the local authority in 1994. From this summer, admirers of the artist will be able to walk in his footsteps and stand where he painted many of his works in an upstairs studio his father built for him, lit by a large skylight. It was here, surrounded by 15 hectares of vineyards and orchards, that he produced his still lifes, portraits, and self-portraits, many of which will feature in the exhibition in the local Musée Granet. The Card Players was one of a series of five painted here in the 1890s. During the renovation of Jas de Bouffan, workers discovered an unknown painting on an inside wall of the house — under a layer of white paint. Someone who owned the beautiful period home after Cézanne's time was so unimpressed by the fresco they simply painted over it. Initial signs suggest it is a scene of boats on a river and it is now being restored. The ground floor and an upstairs room are being prepared for the opening but others will not be finished until next year. Visitors will also be able to visit the studio he built, the 'Atelier des Lauves', after being forced to sell Jas de Bouffan in 1899 to give his sisters their share of their father's inheritance. The artist produced his final paintings here from 1902 to his death in 1906, working daily in a room flooded with light. The studio on Lauves Hill overlooking Aix is being restored and will contain many of his possessions, a permanent legacy of Cézanne 2025. Cézanne adored the light of Provence and once said: 'When you're born there, it's hopeless, nothing else is good enough.' We experience that light ourselves when we tour the abandoned Bibémus quarries where the painter did countless landscapes with the giant sandstone rocks and Mont Sainte-Victoire in the background. A new public trail will be opened leading to the quarries to the east of the city. Replicas of his work are embedded in places he loved, particularly on the Terrain des Peintres, a terrace near his studio where there are nine copies on enamalled plates. You can follow his development through the decades, from his early impressionist paintings to the cubism and abstraction of his latter days, a development that inspired Picasso to call him 'the father of us all'. Visitors will also be able to visit the studio he built, the 'Atelier des Lauves', after being forced to sell Jas de Bouffan in 1899 to give his sisters their share of their father's inheritance. Art and Provence are eternally linked and visitors seeking more cultural enlightenment should make their way to the amazing Chateau La Coste, owned by Irish hotelier and developer Paddy McKillen. It's a working biodynamic vineyard featuring huge art installations by the likes of Damien Hirst and Irish artist Sean Scully, and by famed architects like Tadao Ando from Japan and Brazil's Oscar Niemeyer. Bono's pal, Guggi, features with a giant bronze chalice along with works by Tracey Emin, Yoko Ono, REM's Michael Stipe and many more. We walk through long rows of grapes to reach Bob Dylan's Rail Car, a real American box car set on rail tracks. Once used to transport paper rolls by an Oregon lumber company, its cover has been replaced by a maze of sculptured iron. Dylan said the sight and sound of freight trains was part of his childhood. A short time later we bump into Paddy McKillen's sister Maire, who tells us it was she who originally found the vineyard for her brother in 2002. The Belfast-born chef had settled in Aix because of the quality and range of its foods and herbs and Paddy fell in love with the area while visiting. He asked her to find him a farm. Writer Jim Gallagher with a statue of Paul Cezanna. 'I knew he was serious because he's a real visionary,' says Maire, who retains her soft Belfast accent after decades in France. 'Once I found it, he said, 'this place is too beautiful to keep for ourselves'. 'He loves art and the artistic process and he began to invite people down, people he knew or people whose work he liked like architect Richard Rogers. 'They came because of their love of Provence — and Provence is why we are still here.' Rogers went on to design a spectacular 120m long gallery on a hillside overlooking the chateau and surrounding landscape. Beginning with just a cafe, the estate now has a five-star hotel, a four-star hotel, six restaurants, and the vineyard produces up to 900,000 bottles of wine a year, mostly rosé. The final stop on our Cézanne-inspired art tour is the Gallifet Art Centre in Aix, which specialises in the work of young up-and-coming artists. Nicolas Mazet opened the gallery in his 19th- century home in 2010 and says they show the work of young artists inspired by Cézanne's never-give-up attitude. Cézanne 2025 is a fitting tribute to a painter whose work was forward-looking yet rooted in tradition. The reopening of his house and studio simply give us two more excuses to visit the fabled region and explore the enduring beauty of luminous Aix-en-Provence. Jim was a guest of Aix-en-Provence tourism. Provencal landscape, France, showing Mont Ste Victoire, from the same spot in Aix-en-Provence where Cezanne painted the same landscape as it was in the 19th century. ESCAPE NOTES For more information on the Cézanne celebrations see For more information on visiting Aix and Provence see and Where to stay If you're staying in Aix, a comfortable base is the four-star Hotel Aquabella which has a large outdoor pool, a smaller inside pool and spa with sauna and steam rooms. Its L'Orangerie restaurant serves up a lovely prawn linguine which ticks all my boxes. Where to eat In the city centre, a good place to eat and watch the world go by is the lively terrace of Le Mirabeau, which has very friendly staff. For dinner, the rooftop terrace of La Fromagerie du Passage specialises in cheese dishes. If you want to spoil yourself, try lunch in the beautiful L'Atelier des Lodges, which has a terrace with a spectacular view of Mont Sainte-Victoire. Or try the luxurious Villa Gallici, a five-star Relais & Chateaux hotel based in an 18th-century mansion which won a recent Cézanne menu competition to reinterpret Provencal cuisine. La Taula, its gourmet restaurant, is a haven of style and tranquility overlooking one of the hotel's pools. Artistic inspiration The sculpture park and organic winery at Chateau La Coste is open seven days a week from 10am – 7pm. The walking trail through the 600-acre park is €15. Six restaurants have various opening times. Gallifet Art centre is currently open from noon to 6pm, Wednesday to Saturday, price €6. From June 1, it is open every day except Monday during the summer months. There is also a restaurant, shop and apartment to rent.
Local France
22-05-2025
- Local France
French property: What to know about buying a second home in the Riviera and Provence
The French Riviera is often known as resort area, with yachts and mansions dotting the Côte d'Azur, but there is more to it than Saint-Tropez and Antibes. The sunny city of Nice has become a hot-spot for Americans both buying second homes and moving permanently to France. Meanwhile, the villages of Provence that once enchanted Paul Cézanne still hold charm. However, the south-eastern part of France does have some downsides - detractors note that the weather can be very hot and that prices (even for rural life) can be higher than other parts of southern France. Advertisement As part of an ongoing series about second homes in France, The Local asked readers and experts to build a full picture of what it is like to buy property in south-eastern France, from the pros and cons to the advice you should know before making a purchase. What readers had to say "Natural beauty, quiet, good weather, and great markets in nearby villages," were just a few of the reasons Kamila Ceran gave for why she purchased a second home in the Luberon area in Provence. When it comes to choosing a location in the south-east, Ceran said that the benefits "really depend on the location". "There are some very famous, touristy places, like Gordes or Roussillon, and there are plenty less known and quiet, like Murs, Joucas or Lioux. So you can choose whatever you like. People are friendly, local produce is wonderful, there are also lots of houses to choose from, for every budget." Almost every survey respondent who bought along the French Riviera or in Provence mentioned the weather as a selling point, with proximity to the coast being the another benefit for many of them. Some chose quieter locations, like Laura Schmuck who said she chose a town between Arles and Avignon because of the "good weather and train connections". "We are close to the bigger cities of Avignon, Arles and Nîmes, without being in the bigger cities," she said, adding that in her area "people are very nice and welcoming" and there are "not too many tourists." Meanwhile, others opted for more urban options, like Nice. Reader Will Alkass bought in Nice, and said that the city "has a lot of things going for it. It is a city for all ages, for all seasons, full of activities and interesting things and places, near the Alps and next door to Italy and Monaco. He added that the Riviera offers "plenty of choices to chose from, in the centre of town, out of town, near the beach or near the mountains." David Blackburn also chose to buy in Nice and said he would recommend buying along the French Riviera. "It is truly a magical region," he said. "My husband and I celebrated our first anniversary in Nice and never stopped going back so we finally decided to buy a home. "Nice is France's second major airport and fifth biggest city, so it is an all year round destination with amazing transport links and always something new to do". READ MORE: 'A really efficient city': Why more and more Americans are moving to Nice Richard Hunter said he bought in Mougins, due to its "proximity to the coast, Cannes, the A8 and the Nice airport. Also, there is a lot to do in the local villages, and there is great weather." Advertisement That said, life in Provence and the Riviera is not all sunshine. Alkass warned that in Nice: "In the summer it gets hot and crowded with tourists. Also, the streets tend to get dirty with dog mess, but I guess this is a problem all over France!" Resort areas can also come with high prices. Iain Noble said the region is "a great place to live: warm in winter and a sophisticated cosmopolitan environment." But he cautioned that "properties can be expensive. Too hot and too many tourists in summer." According to Meilleurs Agents , as of May 2025, in Nice, the average price per metre squared was €5,032 for apartments and €5,970 for detached (single family) homes. In contrast, the overall PACA (Provence-Alpes-Côte-d'Azur) region had average prices at €4,047 for apartments and €4,059 for detached homes. Advertisement While this is still a good deal cheaper than Paris, where prices soar above €9,000 per square metre, it is more expensive than the south-west. But if you prefer a smaller village - with a lower price point and fewer crowds - in Provence, Kamila Ceran warned that there is "no public transport in smaller villages. Access to health services may be a problem." READ MORE: MAP: Where in France has the best access to healthcare? What experts had to say Joanna Leggett, the marketing director for Leggett International real estate, told The Local that "sunshine, glamorous resorts, incredible restaurants are all obvious selling points about the French Riviera". Leggett explained that clients can be surprised by prices. "The feedback we get from clients is 'Oh, it's not as expensive as we thought!' "You don't need to be rich to buy here. Obviously, prime Cannes or Saint-Tropez will be expensive, but having a holiday home here is eminently achievable and villages inland are absolutely stunning." As you might have expected, the Riviera is popular, and Leggett noted that "one drawback is the traffic in the summer on the road between Cannes and Nice. If you are travelling to your home in peak season then choose your time carefully. Advertisement "The good news is that Nice international airport has direct flights to London, New York, Miami, Los Angeles and more." French real estate expert Adrian Leeds, the head of the real estate agency Adrian Leeds Group, which primarily works with Americans buying property in France, said that Nice is the second city she recommends to her clients (after Paris). "Nice is just fabulous. My clients love it. It has fabulous weather, and the airport is easy to get to. It is honestly quite perfect. The only thing that is missing is the serious cultural offering that you get in Paris, but Nice has plenty of outdoor activities and nature. Plus, it is half the price of the capital." Leeds noted that Nice fulfills all of her criteria she asks clients to consider before buying property in France: travel availability, access to healthcare, and a local, English-speaking community. For those less interested in coastal life, Leeds also said that Aix-en-Provence is also in her top five French cities she recommends. "Aix-en-Provence is cultured, young, and 30 minutes to the Marseille airport. That said, it does get hot in the summer, and you might want a car to be able to explore the countryside. Another downside is that in the winter, it's dead and in the summer it can be overcrowded." Jennifer Parrette of Renestance real estate firm, told The Local that the French Riviera "is a mecca for warm weather sun seekers and supports one of the most international populations in France. "On the Riviera, we find that people are surprised by how easy it is to travel by train to a variety of towns and beaches along the coast (...) Day trips to Italy for lunch are a reality!" Still, she said that her company warns people about crowds during the summer time. "Even the trains can sometimes be difficult to board on peak weekends," Parrette told The Local. One benefit Parrette highlighted is that "there are always people wanting to own a piece of this French paradise," which founder and CEO of French Riviera House Hunting, Fabricio Carminati echoed. Advertisement "There is a strong rental potential - properties here are in high demand and can be a solid long-term investment. "Prices have been increasing constantly (except in 2023) sustained by a very active market. There is also proximity to Italy and the Italian Riviera," he said. The downside to this is that "competition for quality properties is strong," but while clients "might expect the Riviera to be flashy and overpriced, many are pleasantly surprised by how many quiet, authentic villages and mid-range properties still exist. "Many also think it is a region hosting only retirees, which is wrong. Although a lot of people retire here, the Riviera is also very dynamic with many young expats." Advice and tips to consider Carminati said that would-be second home owners should "think about maintenance. A second home needs upkeep. Make sure you have a plan (or a local contact) to manage the property when you're away." He also advised familiarising yourself with local rules. "Buying in France involves a notaire , and the legal system is very different from what many foreign buyers are used to. Working with professionals who understand the local market - and the buyer background - is essential." Reader Kamila Ceran mentioned this as well. Her advice to those interested in the French Riviera was "Be prepared. The process takes time, months, even for a cash buyer. Do your research before you sign anything. Email is generally not an approved way of communication, so it can be hard if you don't know the language." For smaller villages, she advised that you "go to the local mairie , to learn everything you need about local plans - like building windmills or trash collectors nearby. Remember it's a rural area - you can be subjected daily to the tractor noise in nearby fields." Iain Noble recommended that would-be buyers be aware of "high service charges and often inefficient management in apartment blocks." READ MORE: PROPERTY: What you need to know about 'copropriété' fees in France He also warned of the "high taxe d'habitation (€3,000 plus in Nice)," which is the additional property tax that applies to second homes and depends on the local tax levels. And aside from studying the area you are interested in, several readers also mentioned that in this part of France, particularly if you move away from the coast, you might need to invest in installing air conditioning to deal with increasingly hot summers. Each day this week we will publish an article on the challenges of buying a second home in certain parts of France including Paris, Brittany and the South West as well as an article on key tips for buying a French second home. Find the full series HERE
