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Times
17 hours ago
- General
- Times
How to make perfect pesto and why you're probably doing it wrong
Isn't it funny how it's always the simplest recipes that cause the biggest disagreements? Take pesto, for example. Typically it's made from five ingredients: basil, pine nuts, oil, garlic and cheese. Yet ask people in Liguria, the Italian region where the sauce originated, and you will be given a hundred different methods. Some add parmesan, others pecorino; some grind it by hand, others blitz it in a processor. In fact, the only things they agree on is that pre-made pesto in jars is an abomination (and don't even mention vegan pesto made with nutritional yeast) — and that the only basil worth using is Genoese, grown in fields cooled by sea breezes. 'If you haven't got good basil, make something else,' says Stevie Parle, the chef behind the popular Italian pasta restaurant Pastaio in central London. He waves a large bunch of Genoese basil under my nose and it's true, it does have a more robust, spicier, less sweet scent than the basil we are used to buying in the supermarkets, which has a more metallic, minty flavour. 'Basil really is the most important thing, and this has its own PDO [protected denomination of origin quality label], meaning it's come from the right region and has been grown in the right way, facing the coast so it doesn't get too hot or too cool.' When you grow Genoese basil, you can pick a crop from it three times, but it's only the tender first crop that achieves PDO status. Parle buys his from Natoora, the vegetable wholesaler, and it comes with its roots intact to ensure freshness. 'I have tried repotting it and growing it in the past, but you will never get the same flavour because it's about the soil and climate where it comes from.' That's the basil variety agreed on, but Parle warns me that you can go down a rabbit hole chasing an illusory concept of authenticity for almost every other detail. 'Even within Liguria there's a lot of variations, some of it regional, some of it between families. Some people will blanch their basil for 10 seconds before refreshing it in iced water, especially towards the end of the basil season when the leaves are bigger and tougher. Others will add a splash of milk or cream at the end.' Parle's own quirk is to freeze the basil for 15 minutes before using it. 'It's something I overheard at my favourite restaurant to have pesto in — Da Laura, just up the coast from Portofino — and it makes absolute sense to me. It breaks the cell walls so you get a brighter, greener, more basily pesto.' The other constituents are again a question of finding the best possible varieties. To this end, Parle prefers Italian or Middle Eastern pine nuts, which are longer than the more stubby and ubiquitous Chinese ones. Their flavour is much nuttier, something he enhances by toasting them briefly in a dry pan. Then there is the choice of oil. 'This is getting quite niche now,' Parle admits, 'but you don't want a peppery oil from Tuscany as it will overpower the pesto. Ligurian oil is perfect, but it's quite hard to find in this country, so I'd recommend an oil from the south of France made from ripe black olives, which is more delicate, almost buttery.' Your ingredients assembled, you have to decide whether to use a pestle and mortar, as is traditional, or a food processor. 'It's probably better if you do it with a pestle and mortar, and ten years ago when I used to write a recipe column, I'd have said you must,' Parle says. 'But it's just ridiculous. I've got three kids and two busy restaurants [recently he launched Town on Drury Lane] — I'm using a machine.' Certainly not a knife, though. 'I actually watched a video this morning of a chef whom I really admire making his pesto with a knife, and I just thought, 'Mate, we need to have a conversation about this. I mean, why would you?' People would say you want a bit of texture, but I think that's rubbish. You want it to be completely smooth, as if you have spent hours grinding it by hand with your pestle and mortar.' The final texture he controls by adding a little optional ricotta ('I like mine on the creamy side') or a splash of pasta cooking water to make it slightly looser and glossier. You'd hope that would be all the controversies dealt with, but then we come to accompaniments. Pasta, obviously, but which one? 'I like lasagnetti,' Parle says, 'which are very fine, wide sheets, because I like the way the pesto sits on them. In Liguria you'll often get trofie, which are little twists, and they work well too. Spaghetti not so much, and I don't like conchiglie either because you don't want a shell full of pesto, you just want a slick covering.' Parle also likes to add potatoes and green beans. 'I love a double carb,' he says. 'I cut my potato very, very thin on a mandolin, so it's as thin as the pasta, and then it takes the same amount of time to cook. It just adds another interesting texture and maybe also you're getting slightly starchier water, which I think is really important. And then a few green beans because they're delicious.' That's pretty much where he draws the line. I suggest a smear of pesto on grilled fish, but he sticks his tongue out in disgust. 'No, it's not for fish, it's not for chicken — and please, it's not for sandwiches,' he says definitively. Surely there must be something else, I ask. 'Oh OK, yes, soup. You can add a spoonful to a summer bowl of minestrone if you like. I'll concede that.' Stevie Parle's ultimate pesto recipe Parle freezes the basil for 15 minutes before using it CHRIS MCANDREW FOR THE TIMES Makes about 400ml Ingredients • 100g basil leaves • 30g pine nuts • 1 small garlic clove • ½ tsp fine salt • 90g ricotta (ideally fresh sheep's ricotta) • 40g parmesan, finely grated • 100ml extra virgin olive oil Method 1. Wash and pick the basil, then lay the leaves flat on a tray and put in the freezer for 15 min — this locks in their colour. 2. Toast the pine nuts in a dry pan over a medium heat for 2-3 min, until golden and fragrant, then leave to cool. 3. Crush the garlic with the salt until smooth, using a pestle and mortar or the flat side of a knife. 4. In a high-powered blender, mix the basil, pine nuts, garlic paste, ricotta, parmesan and olive oil until it becomes silky and bright green. 5. Taste and adjust with seasoning. Loosen with a splash of cold water or more oil if needed. Six alternative pesto combinations Pesto alla Trapanese GETTY • Pesto alla Trapanese — a Sicilian version with almonds instead of pine nuts combined with fresh chopped cherry tomatoes, basil and pecorino. • Pistachio — use pistachios instead of pine nuts, and leave out the ricotta for a richer, silkier texture. • Rocket and walnut — use peppery rocket and toasted walnuts instead of basil and pine nuts to make a punchier, more wintery version. • Courgette and mint — either add mint alongside the basil or replace it, depending on your taste. Blend raw courgette, mint, garlic and lemon zest with a little parmesan for a light, summery twist. • Wild garlic — swap basil for wild garlic leaves in spring for a much stronger and earthy flavour profile. Keep everything else the same. • Parsley and hazelnut — swap out the basil for flat leaf parsley and the pine nuts for toasted hazelnuts. The toasted nuts give an almost woody, rich taste.
Telegraph
10-05-2025
- Business
- Telegraph
Cook a restaurant-style meal with Stevie Parle's indulgent dinner recipes
At a time when many London restaurateurs are battening down the hatches, buffeted by tax increases, rising costs and staff shortages, Stevie Parle is making a statement of grand intent. Stepping into his new restaurant, Town, on the Holborn side of London's Drury Lane, is like entering a portal to a glamorous, mid-century world, all cherry-red tiles and curvilinear surfaces, the pass enclosed in a bright green façade. 'There's a lot of business still to be done in London,' Parle says, over coffee next door while builders put the finishing touches on things. 'I know you hear a lot of doom and gloom, but if you get it right, it still works. Obviously, there are lots of things I'm worried about, but I think it's gonna fly. London is a resilient place, and there are a lot of people who need a good night out.' At 40, Parle has known the best and worst of the industry. He has been a chef since he was 17, training at Ballymaloe and The River Cafe before opening his own restaurant, Dock Kitchen, in Ladbroke Grove in 2009, when he was just 24. Others followed – Palatino, Rotorino, Sardine with his former head chef Alex Jackson – as well as books and TV and restaurant columns. Some of Parle's ventures have been more successful than others. Those earlier restaurants have closed, but Pastaio, the Soho pasta restaurant he opened in 2017, is on the verge of becoming an institution. Town may be his most ambitious project yet – a reflection of the fact that, after years recovering from the financial effects of Covid, he is finally in a position to come out swinging. 'We had more than a million pounds of pandemic debt racked up, but we have been working through that, that's nearly done,' he says, hopefully. 'We are getting there.' Town's menu began with ingredients, working with trusted suppliers and building up from there. Key is Wildfarmed, the organic grain company started by Groove Armada musician Andy Cato, which is now supplying beef that adheres to the same scrupulous standards as its grain. 'It has been about who do we know who is growing what in the right way,' Parle says. As the dishes selected for The Telegraph – smoky chilli scallops, duck leg ragu, cherry pie – suggest, this means fresh, seasonal vegetables with satisfyingly indulgent fish and meat. 'One of the things I've noticed about the way the food is going is the contrast of roughness and elegance that I'm enjoying,' he says. 'I told the chefs not to make the pie look all fancy. I want the edge to be crimped but keep it messy.' Although the sourcing is integral, it will not come with the kind of lecture some restaurants seem to relish. Fun is the order of the day, with a large 40-seat bar as you enter, with drinks by Bethnal Green cocktail bar Satan's Whiskers. 'Not to be negative about the London restaurant scene but I feel we have branched out in two ways,' he says. 'There are restaurants delivering good times and medium food, and restaurants delivering excellent food in a slightly worthy or preachy environment. I wanted to marry [great food] with the great night out, the aesthetic values, service and drinks of some of the restaurants that de-prioritise food.' As for the restaurant's name, Parle says it came from a desire not to sound too concept-driven or region-specific. 'I didn't want it to be a concept restaurant, I didn't want it to be from anywhere in particular,' he says. 'It's about using all our knowledge to work out what's the best way to cook this bit of lamb. We just happened upon 'Town'. It's 'night on the town'. It feels good. It's good for puns without being a pun.'
Forbes
16-04-2025
- Entertainment
- Forbes
Where To Eat And Drink In London For Easter 2025
These restaurants, bars and bakeries around London are the best spots to eat and drink for Easter ... More 2025. With the weather warming up and the flowers blooming, it's clear that Easter is swiftly approaching. After the egg hunt (and obligatory snacking on chocolate eggs), you might as well gather the family for a decadent Easter feast at an incredible restaurant. Sure, you could slave all day cooking, but you might as well take advantage of the Easter-themed seasonal menus at some of London's best restaurants. If that isn't an option, you should certainly grab some special Easter-themed pastries or treats. Whether you're craving an Easter-themed afternoon tea or looking for a lavish Easter feast, these restaurants, bars and bakeries around London are the best spots to eat and drink for Easter 2025. Boxcar Baker & Deli and Boxcar Bread & Wine have created a limited-edition hot cross bun for Easter ... More 2025. Hot cross buns are arguably one of the best Easter treats. At Boxcar Baker & Deli and Boxcar Bread & Wine, the seasonal dessert receives a twist in the form of limited-edition Apple and Cinnamon Hot Cross Buns. Served with a warm housemade honey and cinnamon butter, it'll be available to enjoy onsite or at home from April 14th to April 20th. In honor of Easter 2025, The Delaunay has launched a special Easter afternoon tea. In honor of Easter 2025, The Delaunay has launched a special Easter afternoon tea. The bespoke tea will feature a variety of sweet and savory treats, including unique editions like the Chicks Macaron with passionfruit and coconut, a Spring Mozart Cake and an Easter Net Pistachio Financier with candied mini eggs. To celebrate Easter, Pastaio will serve Colomba Bread and Butter Pudding and Pastiera Napolentana (a ... More popular Neapolitan tart filled with wheat, ricotta and orange flower). To celebrate Easter, Pastaio will serve Colomba Bread and Butter Pudding and Pastiera Napolentana (a popular Neapolitan tart filled with wheat, ricotta and orange flower). The bread pudding is a take on Pastaio's much-loved Christmas Panettone Bread and Butter Pudding and is designed to be shared between two. Served at The Stage, The Londoner's Easter Afternoon Tea experience will offer Easter-inspired ... More patisserie artworks including a chocolate egg with yuzu and mango. For a fun, indulgent Easter afternoon activity, why not book yourself in for an Easter afternoon tea at The Londoner? Served at The Stage, The Londoner's luxe champagne bar, the experience will offer Easter-inspired patisserie artworks including a chocolate egg with yuzu and mango. Floozie Cookies will have an exclusive range of Easter cookies with flavors like the Creme Egg ... More Cookie and a Raspberry Hot Cross Bun Cookie. Created by pastry chef Kimberly Lin, Floozie Cookies is a vegan bakery in Covent Garden. The bakery will have an exclusive range of Easter cookies with flavors like the Creme Egg Cookie (a chocolate chunk cookie topped with a dairy-free creme egg) and a Raspberry Hot Cross Bun Cookie (a thick cookie stuffed with white chocolate and raspberry). On Easter Sunday, Claridge's Restaurant will have a memorable three-course lunch experience On Easter Sunday, Claridge's Restaurant will have a memorable three-course lunch experience. With special appearances from the resident bunny, diners will eat dishes like British asparagus with Jersey Royal potato vinaigrette, a Celeriac Wellington with mushroom sauce and truffle or the Shetland halibut with ratatouille and minestrone sauce. To finish the meal, don't skip out on the Claridge's chocolate, a combination of chocolate mousse, brownie, cocoa nib, caramel and hot chocolate sauce. For Easter, Ambassadors Clubhouse will offer an Easter Feasting Menu that's centered around the ... More Shahi Patiala Suckling Lamb Raan (a slow-cooked lamb marinated in Punjabi spices). With a location in Mayfair, Ambassadors Clubhouse is the newest addition from JKS Restaurants (the group behind two Michelin-starred Gymkhana). For Easter, the spot will offer an Easter Feasting Menu that's centered around the Shahi Patiala Suckling Lamb Raan (a slow-cooked lamb marinated in Punjabi spices). In honor of Greek Easter (which takes place on April 20th) Estiatorio Milos London will have a ... More special Greek Easter Menu. Founded in 1979, estiatorio Milos is part of a family-owned Greek restaurant empire. In honor of Greek Easter (which takes place on April 20th), the spot will have a special Greek Easter Menu with dishes like the Mariritsa Soup (a traditional lamb soup), Easter Salad (Romaine salad, crumbled feta and dill dressing), Tsoureki (a traditional Greek Easter braided bread), or The Regent Street Spit-Roasted Lamb. Dine on braised lamb shoulder with boulangére potatoes and rhubarb and blood orange mille feuille ... More during your French-inspired Easter feast at Henri Dine on braised lamb shoulder with boulangére potatoes and rhubarb and blood orange mille feuille during your French-inspired Easter feast at Henri. Hidden in London's West End, the brasserie-style dining room is always buzzing while guests sip on bubbles and listen to live jazz. Carved tableside, the farm rib of beef and corn-fed lemon butter chicken are both mouthwatering ... More options at Whitcomb's for your Easter meal. Whether you're looking to have a family get-together or a cozy Easter dinner for two, you can never go wrong with a traditional Sunday Roast. The one at Whitcomb's will feature French-inspired roasts that come from the Aldens family butcher in Oxfordshire. Carved tableside, the farm rib of beef and corn-fed lemon butter chicken are both mouthwatering, making it a terrific choice for your Easter meal. In partnership with Acqua di Parma, La Petite Maison will celebrate Easter with a special dessert ... More and cocktail pairing in honor of the brand's newest fragrance, Buongiorno. In partnership with Acqua di Parma, La Petite Maison will celebrate Easter with a special dessert and cocktail pairing in honor of the brand's newest fragrance, Buongiorno. Developed by La Petite Maison's pastry chefs, L'ŒUF DE PQUES is an easter egg filled with a basil meringue and topped with a lemon chantilly. The treat can be expertly paired with the Buongiorno Cocktail, which was developed by La Petite Maison's group beverage director, Tibor Krascsenics. To mark Easter 2025, The Connaught Grill has a showstopping Easter lamb roast. To mark Easter 2025, The Connaught Grill has a showstopping Easter lamb roast. Accompanied by traditional Sunday roast trimmings, there will be a Milk-fed lamb leg roast alongside a larger braised shoulder, both of which are cooked over the restaurant's wood-fired grill. To finish the extravagant meal, diners have the option to choose between a Chocolate brioche served with buckwheat and chicory ice cream or Crêpes Suzette that are flambéed tableside on the Grill's original solid silver trolley. For an Easter feast that's untraditional, you can't go wrong with a visit to Akira Back at The ... More Mandarin Oriental in Mayfair. For an Easter feast that's untraditional, you can't go wrong with a visit to Akira Back at The Mandarin Oriental in Mayfair. Priced at £78 per person, diners will be able to indulge in a range of signature Japanese Akira Back dishes, including a sushi platter, the iconic Tuna Pizza, AB Tacos (with wagyu bulgogi and tomato ponzu) or the Dynamite Lobster. Beloved Kentish Town pub The Parakeet is giving its traditional Sunday Roast an Easter twist for the ... More month of April. Beloved Kentish Town pub The Parakeet is giving its traditional Sunday Roast an Easter twist for the month of April. In honor of the holiday, diners will be able to enjoy a sharing leg of lamb for four, salt-aged beef or celeriac Wellington, alongside traditional accompanies. Both dishes can be paired with one of the many wines on the pub's expansive list, most of which are biodynamic and low-intervention wines. Offering breathtaking views of London's skyline, Duck & Waffle is the perfect special occasion spot ... More to celebrate Easter 2025. Offering breathtaking views of London's skyline, Duck & Waffle is the perfect special occasion restaurant to celebrate Easter 2025. On Easter Sunday, the eatery is serving a roast with a menu that highlights a spinach-stuffed saddle of Essex lamb paired with all the trimmings. The meal will conclude with a handcrafted Graffiti Easter Egg that's made from white and dark chocolate and contains pick and mix inside. In collaboration with JUMBI, The Rooftop at The Standard, London will have panoramic views and great ... More cocktails on Easter Sunday. In collaboration with JUMBI, The Rooftop at The Standard, London will have panoramic views and great cocktails on Easter Sunday. The beloved Hi-Fi bar and restaurant from Bradley Zero and Nathanael Colours celebrates the sounds and flavors of the Afro-Caribbean diaspora and will be popping up at The Standard. Imagery For refreshing tequila-based cocktails, Pergola Brixton is the perfect spot to celebrate this Easter ... More bank holiday weekend. For refreshing tequila-based cocktails, Pergola Brixton is the perfect place to celebrate this Easter bank holiday weekend. The rooftop will have drinks (like fruity margaritas and sparkling palomas) that are made in tandem with Altos Tequila in addition to a rotation of in-house DJs spinning tunes. For Easter, Seed Library will serve a chocolate toastie and shot pairing. Created by award-winning bartender Mr. Lyan, Seed Library is an incredible Shoreditch spot. For Easter, the spot will serve a chocolate toastie (a piece of bread slathered in chocolate spread and mixed with smashed-up Maltesers bunnies) and an Egg Cup Shot made with milk bourbon, cacao and pine honey.
