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Philipp Plein Unveils The 2026 Cruise Fashion Collection At Cannes
MILAN, ITALY - APRIL 11: Philipp Plein attends the launch of the Philipp Plein FW2025 Watches and ... More Jewels collection during Salone del Mobile on April 11, 2025 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Pietro S. D'Aprano/Getty Images for Philipp Plein)
Set against the glossy star-studded red carpet of the Cannes Film Festival, the Carlton Beach Club sparkled with different kinds of stars: crystal embroidery, slick leather, and a sharp dose of high-octane glamour. The occasion? Philipp Plein's Cruise 2026 fashion collection, Noir Summer Dream, an aptly titled fashion show from the fashion industry's maximalist provocateur.
Philipp Plein presents the Cruise 2026 Collection, 'Noir Summer Dream', over Cannes Film Festival
Though Cannes is known for its sunshine, the forecast called for another bout of what locals call the 'Cannes Curse,' the unexpected downpours that seem to arrive right on cue each festival season. Sure enough, the skies opened, forcing Philipp Plein to relocate his annual resort show from his lush private villa to the storied Carlton Beach Club. It marked the first venue change in a decade for the designer. Still, the location change felt serendipitous. With its panoramic sea views and storied glamour, the Beach Club proved an ideal runway, or as Plein himself put it, 'the place to be, especially at the beginning of the summer season.'
Philipp Plein presents the Cruise 2026 Collection, 'Noir Summer Dream', over Cannes Film Festival
Plein's premiere Cruise collection featured 16 looks of models, clad in sculptural black halter gowns and jewel-studded minidresses, that moved through a scene somewhere between Studio 54 and a midnight séance, with a hint of French Riviera maximalism. It all felt like a stylized fever dream with a bit of a cinematic flair, perhaps as a nod to the film festival next door.
There was no subtlety present, but then again subtlety has never been Plein's aesthetic point, quite the contrary, in his universe more is more. Plein's debut Cruise collection can be a study in opulence and contrasts: darkness and sparkle, strength and seduction. The collection is a precise ode to cocktail and evening-wear, one of the niche markets that Plein committed to unapologetically since the invention of the brand. Nearly every look was rendered in black, from leather suiting with sharply contoured shoulders to sheer gowns and crystal embellished dresses. The eye did wonder as Plein's silhouettes continue to retain the bravado of his early years. But there was a shift on the runway, his love for excess has been clearly distilled, think of it as less spectacle, and more statement.
Philipp Plein presents the Cruise 2026 Collection, 'Noir Summer Dream', over Cannes Film Festival
'I'm not trying to sell basics,' Plein once quipped backstage at the Milan Fashion Week, where he infamously punctuated a 2015 show with a full-scale roller coaster and a declaration that he aimed to 'f*** your mind tonight.' A decade later, the tone may be more refined, but the intention remains provocatively clear. Take for example the little black dress, which Plein showcased with a crystalized, matelassé technique, revealing both Plein's love of embellishment and as well as his evolving command of construction. It was a winner. Guests travelled as far away as Cyprus and Monaco to see the show. 'Like Cannes, Cyprus has this deep appreciation for opulence and luxury, so Plein's dark glamour really resonated with me. Philipp Plein doesn't follow trends, he creates his own universe,' said Natalia Ellinas, CEO, Fashion Forum in Cyprus.
Philipp Plein presents the Cruise 2026 Collection, 'Noir Summer Dream', over Cannes Film Festival
What Plein cannot avoid is the drama on the runway, in fact, it is ever-present. Think of it as the old Hollywood filtered through Plein's over-the-top moodboard. It reminded me of Plein's recent presentation of his bespoke timepieces at Watches and Wonders 2025 in Geneva, where he unveiled three new watches — the King Phantom, Crypto King, and Diamond Queen — which, unsurprisingly, do not whisper the time so much as pronounce it. Crafted from sapphire crystal and industrial-grade steel, the watches attempt to marry famous Swiss precision with Plein's signature flair. The King Phantom's exposed mechanics mirror the architectural cuts of a leather trench shown in Cannes. The Diamond Queen watch, an over-the-top glittering, gem-encrusted beast of a timepiece, seems tailor-made for the same woman wearing crystal mesh at the Cruise Runway show in Cannes. In both collections, the message from Plein is consistent: luxury should be loud, unapologetic, and with a strong slice of Plein's DNA. 'I am drawn to and inspired by the Plein aesthetic because of how strong his looks are,' said Yasya Minochkina, Monaco-based fashion designer.
Philipp Plein presents the Cruise 2026 Collection, 'Noir Summer Dream', over Cannes Film Festival
Originally trained in law and launching his design career with crystal-studded luxury dog beds, Plein founded his namesake label 25 years ago, a testament to the entrepreneur he is. Philipp Plein is a ringmaster in the circus of opulence, and, arguably, a character of his own creation. With tattooed arms, and a taste for skulls and superyachts, he has cultivated a persona that merges business and bravado. Being a "luxury rebel" as he calls himself, Plein challenges the traditional, understated luxury market trends. To critics, he's a showman but to his fans, and there are many, he has built a universe where opulence is not looked down upon but celebrated. 'If you want to be boring, there's enough of that in fashion,' said Plein.
Philipp Plein presents the Cruise 2026 Collection, 'Noir Summer Dream', over Cannes Film Festival
His business model backs that up. Headquartered in Lugano, Switzerland, the self-financed label operates over 110 boutiques across the globe. It remains one of the few large independent luxury brands in an increasingly conglomerate-driven industry. Back at Cannes, Plein's ethos was on full display. Although Noir Summer Dream wasn't about resort utility per se, it was a confident reminder of Plein's manifesto: that fashion, at its most unrestrained can be a thrilling celebration of individuality. Yes it's over the top, but in a world increasingly obsessed with 'quiet luxury' and 'stealth wealth,' Plein's loud confidence feels excitingly convincing.
