14 hours ago
Diaspo #394 : Leo Norma, a natural talent for elevating the Moroccan caftan
Born in Larache, Larbi Sahraoui left northern Morocco at just a year and a half old. Raised by his parents in Murcia and later Granada, Spain, he now goes by the name Leo Norma and is making a name for himself in the world of international high fashion. Drawing constant inspiration from the cultures, traditions, and lifestyles of his homeland, he has carved out his path in the industry against all odds. From a young age, his deep sensitivity gave him one clear certainty: he was destined to become a fashion designer.
Growing up in a family where his siblings pursued other career paths, Leo—now based in Basel, Switzerland, remembers being a solitary child.
«In Spain, I used to create my own little world, sketching what inspired me, especially the caftans I saw during summer weddings in Morocco. Once back in Granada, that's all I would do: sketch designs to carry with me the striking beauty that amazed me back home», he told Yabiladi.
Leo Norma recently returned to Spain, where it all began, to present a fashion show. At the latest Almeria Fashion Show, he unveiled a collection he described as «bold and poetic, blending the richness of Moroccan heritage with contemporary European elegance». But his passion for drawing once made his school experience difficult, as education in Spain focused more on languages and math than creative expression.
«That's how I discovered my talent because it wasn't exactly encouraged at school or even at home, where my parents were worried about my future. They wanted to be reassured that their children, in whom they had invested everything, would succeed. But those sketches I was constantly drawing in my schoolbooks? They often got me in trouble with my parents!»
The Moroccan Caftan: A Proustian Madeleine in Every Sketch
After primary and middle school, Leo became increasingly convinced of his calling. By 17, in high school, he was fully dedicated to fashion.
«I think I've always trusted my intuition. Even as a child, I knew exactly what I wanted—and what I didn't. For me, it was always obvious I'd end up in haute couture», he said.
He began researching opportunities on his own. «During the school year, and especially in the summer, I never rested. I'd take internships, do professional immersions, or work in restaurants to fund my training. I even found sketching more fun than spending the day at the beach!».
«Once I started to see the results of all that work, despite the sacrifices and sleepless nights, my parents finally felt reassured. They saw that my focus on fashion was serious. Now, many of my family members wear my designs. I've created caftans for my mother, my sisters, my aunts, and my cousins», he proudly said.
With a strong work ethic and relentless drive, Leo secured funding for his first projects, sought out mentors, and learned by observing. At 18, he left Spain to pursue studies at the prestigious International Fashion Academy (IFA) in Paris.
There, as the only Moroccan student in his class, he leaned heavily on his heritage to stand out. That decision paid off: at graduation, he won the school's competition for most original project.
«Even back then, my whole concept revolved around the caftan and traditional Moroccan clothing. Most other students drew from the same Western-European references. I wanted to be different», Leo recalled.
Launching into Global Haute Couture
Thanks to that early recognition, Leo received access to premium materials, funding, and mentoring to help him launch his brand. He began showcasing his work alongside established designers. «That momentum was more than a boost, it's how I launched myself on the international scene», he says. Today, he's grateful for the professional relationships that opened doors.
«A close friend of mine, Riccardo Tisci, formerly Givenchy's artistic director and now at Burberry, has been a huge support. He's dressed celebrities like Beyoncé, Rihanna, and Madonna. He's given me invaluable advice and connected me with other top designers. These relationships give me confidence in my work».
«I've come to realize that my Moroccan culture is my strength. It's what sets me apart and it allows me to send a bigger message: that fashion is more than clothes. Moroccan caftans and traditional garments reflect a unique way of life. I reinterpret that elegance in a way that speaks universally».
Leo's distinct aesthetic now attracts high-profile clients in both the Arab world and the West. He's dressed Ahlam, Eva Longoria, Pilar Rubio, Yvonne Reyes, and numerous Spanish TV personalities. He was also the first Moroccan designer to participate in several international fashion shows, including opening New York Fashion Week, another national first.
Recognition in East and West
In Egypt, he became the first Moroccan designer to present a show at the Temple of Nefertiti in Cairo. «That was a huge honor. Egypt is dear to my heart—I have many friends there. The Egyptian government invited me to present my work in a UNESCO World Heritage site. It was an incredible experience».
«Every fashion designer dreams of something like this. Egypt opened this ancient monument to me in 2018, during a time of instability, when they were working hard to reassure tourists. I gladly accepted. To honor the privilege, I designed a piece blending the Moroccan caftan with Cleopatra's dress».
Highlighting centuries-old heritage from Morocco and beyond, Leo uses fashion as a bridge between cultures. For his contribution, the Egyptian government awarded him a statue of Nefertiti, which he proudly keeps as a source of motivation.
His work has also featured at Dubai's Emigala Awards, where he won «Star of the Night». Now, Leo is preparing a traditional Moroccan menswear collection with a «European twist», which he hopes to present again in New York, and eventually in Morocco.
«That's something I deeply long for. I've shown my work around the world, received offers everywhere, but never yet in Morocco, the country that inspires me. The greatest honor I could give back to my homeland is to present my creations there», he concluded.
