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Wind back to Bvlgari's outstanding debut at Watches and Wonders 2025
Wind back to Bvlgari's outstanding debut at Watches and Wonders 2025

Tatler Asia

time16 hours ago

  • Business
  • Tatler Asia

Wind back to Bvlgari's outstanding debut at Watches and Wonders 2025

Bvlgari's inaugural showing at Watches and Wonders 2025 was a declaration of disruptive intent and prowess. Within a fair increasingly dominated by legacy and nostalgia, it brought something bold and entirely new It was about time. After seasons spent exhibiting just outside the Palexpo convention complex, the annual site of Watches and Wonders Geneva (WWG), Bvlgari finally debuted at the most important horological fair on the calendar in a manner that felt both overdue and undeniably fitting. WWG set the perfect backdrop to showcase a journey that started in 2014—the evolution of the Roman jeweller into a Swiss watchmaker, since adorned with ten world records, 13 revolutionary movements and a veritable lineup of groundbreaking novelties. Also fortuitous that this year would see Bvlgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin's appointment to the helm of LVMH Watches, succeeding Frédéric Arnault. Such a move affirms the brand's place at the forefront of the market, propelled by its distinctive DNA that blends Swiss innovation with Italian creativity. More from Tatler: The Arnault effect: how LVMH defines global luxury, indulgence and desire This inherent duality is profoundly expressed in its headline pieces at Geneva: a compelling study in contrast and harmony. Babin remarks, 'With the Octo Finissimo and Serpenti watches, we continue to explore new territories, to push the boundaries of design and fine watchmaking, and open new perspectives in horology.' Above Each watch reveals the prowess of watchmakers and engineers at Bvlgari (Photo: Courtesy of Bvlgari) Above The Serpenti is transformed once more (Photo: Courtesy of Bvlgari) Breaking a new record was simply inevitable for a Maison so devoted since 2014, when it launched its quest towards extreme thinness with the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon. With a hand-wound movement at 1.95mm thick—the world's slimmest flying tourbillon at the time—this piece propelled the collection that would become Bvlgari's calling card in modern timekeeping. With a slew of world records, the line has consistently fused minimalist design with micro- mechanical wizardry. 'Each record has been a stepping about redefining what's possible in mechanical watchmaking,' Babin comments. 'With each challenge, we've had to rethink not only traditional techniques but also how watches are designed and developed.' The latest chapter to this saga has now arrived with the new Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon. Measuring 40mm in diameter and just 1.85mm in thickness, it is the thinnest piece there's ever been with the desirable complication, and a fitting 'full circle' moment to the watch that started it all. Above The Octo collection has consistently broken world records (Photo: Courtesy of Bvlgari) The heart of this feat is the manual-wound BVF 900 tourbillon movement with a 42-hour power reserve. The degree of precision in the skeletonisation is integral and deliberate; with light expertly diffused throughout, nothing is hidden, and the margin for error is razor-thin. Exacting craftsmanship is not just expected but essential—a testament to Bvlgari's engineering prowess. Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, product creation executive director for the Maison, explains, 'Every detail, from the indexes to the tourbillon skeleton, bears witness to our commitment to excellence.' This is evident in the novelty's interplay of innovative materials. The calibre is housed within a tungsten carbide main plate, while the bezel, case middle and lugs are crafted from microbead-frosted titanium. Also in titanium, the seamlessly integrated bracelet is engineered to just 1.5mm in thickness, including the folding clasp, to ensure the ultra-thin profile remains uncompromised. Read more: Watches and Wonders 2025: 3 record-breaking timepieces Above Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon at just 1.85mm thick (Photo: Courtesy of Bvlgari) Above Key designer Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani (Photo: Courtesy of Bvlgari) The two planar crowns, subtly integrated into the case at 8 o'clock for winding and 3 o'clock for time-setting, are fashioned from circular-grained stainless steel; as is the ratchet, which features intricate geometric engraving that adds visual and tactile depth. For optimal legibility, rhodium-plated hands sweep over the sandblasted brass base in DLC anthracite coating, a matt finish that sharpens clarity while reinforcing the modern, high-performance aesthetic. Unlike its regulator-style predecessors, the Octo Finissimo Ultra and Ultra COSC, this execution unifies time display on a single dial, elevating both function and form. With this harmonious mix, Bvlgari delivers a watch that embodies mechanical complexity and minimalist sophistication in equal measure. Pure Elegance And what of its other release? Bvlgari continues to speak in the precise language of modernism, but also reveals its ancient tongue of seduction and perpetual rebirth. Serpenti Aeterna sees the Maison's iconic motif undergo its most daring transformation yet, distilled to its purest form. Above Serpenti Aeterna in rose gold (Photo: Courtesy of Bvlgari) No eyes, no scales, no artifice—only the serpent's most elemental form remains, in exquisite high jewellery. It's certainly a bold move for the Maison, while affirming its determination to always bring something new to the table. With the Aeterna, Bvlgari shows the world its glorious dance between yesterday and tomorrow, capturing the rich Roman heritage that precedes it and skillfully projects it into the future. 'I like to design in a pure, contemporary style, with few decorative elements—to draw lines that speak the language of eternity,' muses Stigliani. 'Octo Finissimo is a perfect expression of this quest for the absolute through form, which now transforms Serpenti.' Embracing the wrist in a single gesture, the Aeterna's fluidity is like a second skin with even greater sophistication. See also: Watches and Wonders 2025: Best jewellery watches from Chanel, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and more Above Serpenti Aeterna in white gold, a fully pavé model with green hands (Photo: Courtesy of Bvlgari) No detail slips past the brand's visionary modernity. The ingenious clasp mechanism, which demanded two years of development, achieves perfect aesthetic integration and comfort. Invisible from the outside, the iconic hexagonal scales are subtly etched into the inner contour of both variants: one in rose gold, kissed by a spattering of diamonds, and the other fully pavé-set in white gold. Precious gemstones illuminate the snow-set dial, extending along the spine to the very tip of the tail. The name 'Aeterna' evokes timelessness, a fitting moniker for this era when horological connections are more emotional than empirical. In the years ahead, the question won't be whether Bvlgari belongs in Geneva—it's how the rest of the industry keeps up. NOW READ World Watch Day: Horology celebrates global recognition on October 10, 2025 MB&F reimagines Bvlgari's iconic Serpenti LVMH Watch Week 2025: The best new watches

PepsiCo is the latest in a fast-growing club of marketers betting on Formula 1
PepsiCo is the latest in a fast-growing club of marketers betting on Formula 1

Fast Company

timea day ago

  • Business
  • Fast Company

PepsiCo is the latest in a fast-growing club of marketers betting on Formula 1

PepsiCo is the latest big-name marketer to rev up alongside Formula 1, joining a growing roster of brands eager to tap into the surging popularity of the global motorsport. The snack and beverage giant recently signed a multiyear partnership with F1 that includes TV-visible trackside ads, on-site activations at 21 races, and co-branded promotions for three of its marquee brands: Gatorade, Doritos, and Sting Energy. With this move, PepsiCo joins the ranks of luxury powerhouse LVMH, Qatar Airways, and tech heavyweights like Oracle, HP, and Amazon Web Services—each of which has struck sponsorship deals with either individual racing teams or the league itself. Young, rich, global While PepsiCo has long been a fixture in sports marketing—teaming up with leagues like the NFL, NBA, WNBA, and the 2026 and 2027 FIFA World Cups—company execs say Formula 1 brings something different to the table. The sport's fan base skews younger, is more affluent, and appeals equally to men and women. And with 24 Grand Prix races spanning 21 countries, F1 offers marketers a unique chance to connect with both global and hyperlocal audiences on the same circuit. 'It's a pretty unique global property right now with great momentum,' Adam Warner, PepsiCo's vice president of global sports and entertainment partnerships, tells Fast Company. 'We see a great fit with many of the iconic brands in our portfolio.' It is also growing massively. Celebrating its 75th anniversary in 2025, F1 commands a TV audience of 1.6 billion, 97 million social media followers, and in-person attendance that grew 9% to 6.5 million in 2024 versus the prior year, according to the league's parent company Liberty Media. F1 generates the highest sponsorship deal spending across all major leagues, at $6 million on average, according to data analytics firm SponsorUnited. Liberty Media, the mass media owner of Sirius XM and Live Nation Entertainment, gets much of the credit for boosting the sport's popularity after it acquired F1 in a $4.4 billion deal in 2016. Since then, F1 has launched a fantasy league to increase online engagement, launched a female-only racing series in 2023, and most importantly to the U.S. market, added races in Miami and Las Vegas. The U.S. market's F1 fan base grew by nearly 11% last year to total 52 million, according to analytics company Nielsen Sports. Marketers expect interest will increase after General Motors and Cadillac add an American team to the league for the 2026 season. 'There's not many sports in the world that travel around in the way that they do, to the amount of locations that they do, and actually bring fans in from two different directions,' says Clare Lawson, global president of Ogilvy One, the ad giant's customer engagement and experience division. Lawson explains that this core base is now made up of 'petro heads' that love the data and technology behind the cars and the fans that are more into the glitz and glamor of the party scene that's developed around each race. F1 is also benefiting from a more expansive position in pop culture. Lewis Hamilton, Max Verstappen, and other drivers have become huge stars and tabloids are closely following their personal lives, as well as the women they date and marry. Netflix's popular TV documentary series based on the league, Drive to Survive, is widely credited for expanding the audience, particularly in the U.S. Later this month, Apple Original Films will release a sports drama film based on the league called F1. Big brands, big money 'What we've seen with Formula 1 is it's become more part of almost the cultural fabric of people following the drivers themselves,' says Alison Payne, chief marketing officer of Heineken's U.S. business. The Dutch brewer has been an advertiser with the league since 2016 and this month debuted a new ad spot featuring the F1 film stars Brad Pitt and Damson Idris to promote the nonalcoholic beer brand Heineken 0.0. 'Alcohol and driving never mixes,' says Payne. 'It is a perfect platform to raise the awareness that you can still have fun and be part of the social scene, just without alcohol.' Brands say F1 is an exciting vehicle to build creative local campaigns that can match the unique vibe for each Grand Prix race. For Patrón, that resulted in sponsoring a live concert at members-only Soho House in Austin, tapping into the DJ and nightclub culture in Las Vegas, and toasting the glamorous party scene in Miami with the spicy margarita, as that race tends to run close to Cinco de Mayo. The tequila producer found a natural affinity in the motorsports league in 2021 when it kicked off a partnership with the only F1 driver from Mexico, Sergio Pérez. But that initial deal only involved his own name and likeness and Patrón had to ink a subsequent partnership with Pérez's former team, Oracle Red Bull Racing, to show him in his F1 uniform. 'Those are the things you have to figure out as a brand,' says D-J Hageman, VP of marketing at Patrón. 'What are the right IP [intellectual property] rights that I need and want to have to use in my marketing materials and assets.' Adidas accelerated their partnership with F1 by signing a multiyear partnership with the Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS F1 team in January, a collaboration that allows the German sportswear brand to create apparel and footwear to outfit both the pro team and fans. To coincide with the Miami race, Adidas debuted a Floridian inspired collection in burgundy and coral that featured a graphic of a mangrove tree leaf. 'We have to spice it up with local insights to make it more relevant for local consumers,' says Michael Batz, general manager of Adidas Motorsport. Capital One's digital concierge service Velocity Black has been a F1 partner since 2023, working closely with F1's Aston Martin Aramco team. CEO Sylvain Langrand says particularly strong demand for races in popular destinations, including Monaco and Singapore, can make it hard for travelers to book high-end hotels and tables at popular restaurants and bars. Langrand says his service offers their clientele a full end-to-end F1 experience that includes transportation, hotel reservations, hospitality experiences, and even an opportunity to meet the Aston Martin team in person. Velocity Black offers F1 packages across the globe, but says that the U.S. events sell out first. 'Even when you think about the entire F1 racing calendar throughout the year, these three events in the U.S. are very, very special,' says Langrand.

Billionaire Arnault Grapples With Biggest Slump in LVMH History
Billionaire Arnault Grapples With Biggest Slump in LVMH History

Bloomberg

time2 days ago

  • Business
  • Bloomberg

Billionaire Arnault Grapples With Biggest Slump in LVMH History

In a conference hall deep under the glass pyramid of Paris' Louvre Museum, Bernard Arnault was visibly annoyed. The billionaire chief executive officer of the world's biggest luxury group is contending with an unprecedented demand slump in China and the threat of steeper US tariffs that have hammered his company's shares and knocked him from first to 10th among the world's wealthiest people. But on this April morning, Arnault's displeasure was directed at the elevator music playing as investors trooped into LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SE 's annual general meeting.

Jonathan Anderson: Fellow fashionistas on the Irishman guiding Dior's future
Jonathan Anderson: Fellow fashionistas on the Irishman guiding Dior's future

Irish Times

time2 days ago

  • Business
  • Irish Times

Jonathan Anderson: Fellow fashionistas on the Irishman guiding Dior's future

In two weeks' time in Paris , Irish designer Jonathan Anderson will make his much-heralded debut as creative director of Dior , the most famous fashion house in the world, with his first collection of men's wear. His appointment will bring all the collections – menswear, womenswear and haute couture – under the wing of one designer for the first time since the death of founder Christian Dior in 1957. Dior himself came to Dublin in 1950 to open the Dior boutique in Brown Thomas . A jewel in the crown of fashion conglomerate LVMH's 16 fashion brands with a huge global reach, Dior quadrupled sales to more than €9 billion in 2023 but saw them decrease to €8.7 billion in 2024. Given the current slowdown in the luxury sector, which in France contributes more than 4 per cent of the country's GDP, Anderson's role will be challenging. If Anderson also continues his own brand JWA and his long-established collaboration with Uniqlo, that will amount to 18 collections a year, making him, at the age of 41, fashion's most outstanding and prolific designer. 'He plays by his own rules – fearlessly,' Anna Wintour of Vogue has said of him. 'He knows what people want before they know what they want,' observes Paris-based Irish couturier Sean Byrne . 'He has created a universe for himself which a lot of designers can't do very well.' READ MORE Jonathan William Anderson was born in Magherafelt, Co Derry in 1984, eldest son of the celebrated former Irish rugby captain and coach Willie Anderson , a farmer's son from Sixmilecross in Co Tyrone, and his wife Heather Buckley, a teacher. Anderson's younger brother Thomas, a lawyer, works with him as operations director and his sister Chloe is a pharmacist. They are a close-knit family. [ Dior appoints Irishman Jonathan Anderson as sole creative director Opens in new window ] Jonathan's talent, drive and love of drama were evident from an early age, as well as a strong business sense, his father has mother is the daughter of a talented English textile designer, Jim Buckley, who came to work in Northern Ireland and whom Jonathan has always credited as a huge influence in his life. After leaving the local Protestant grammar school where he was diagnosed as dyslexic, Anderson studied acting in New York – 'full-on Stanislavski for two years' – before dropping out and returning to Dublin where he landed a job in Prada menswear in Brown Thomas. Team captain Willie Anderson, Jonathan's father, and the rest of the Ireland side famously face down New Zealand as the All Blacks preform the haka at Lansdowne Road in 1989. Photograph: Billy Stickland/Inpho That period also saw him come out as gay. At a recent award ceremony at Trinity College Dublin , he raised laughter describing how much he enjoyed partying in Dublin at the time, asking: 'and does that club called The George still exist?' University Philosophical Society presented The Honorary Patronage to JW Anderson. Photograph: Nick Bradshaw In the store, his imaginative merchandising attracted the attention of Prada's right-hand woman, the late Manuela Pavesi, who offered him a job in London. With her encouragement, he applied to every fashion college in Britain 'and every single one turned me down'. An offer finally came from the London College of Fashion at the then newly established menswear course. When he graduated in 2005 with first-class honours, he started styling and consulting, rebranding a luxury British underwear company Sunspel while his sell-out collaborations with Topshop, Aldo and Swarovski marked him out as one to watch. With financial support from his family, he launched his first menswear collection in 2008, becoming quickly known for his groundbreaking street style aesthetic which combined creativity with commercial appeal. Designer Jonathan Anderson walks the runway at the JW Anderson Spring/Summer 2024 show in Milan. Photograph: Pietro S D'Aprano/Getty His shows, upending conventional notions of male/female attire, always attracted attention. 'Clothing makes people question identity. Their codes question gender – why should buttons be on different sides for men than women?' he once queried. Andrew Bell, an Irish designer who now works with the Polene handbag brand in Paris, recalls working with Anderson, one of 17 interns in the summer of 2013, as JWA was expanding. 'It was five-six days a week, 12-hour days on menswear, so it was super intense. He was moody, intense, a perfectionist, maybe not the warmest, but a visionary, extremely cultured and well read. He allowed us freedom to explore and experiment which was quite unique for a designer at the time.' South Korea footballer Hwang Hee-Chan poses with the Loewe puzzle bag. Photograph: by Han Myung-Gu/WireImage [ Irish designer JW Anderson named as one of Time's most influential people for 2024 Opens in new window ] That collection for men, with its skirts, medieval-style tunics with ruffled boots and boiled wool tops 'was such a statement of masculinity', says Bell. He describes Anderson's managerial skills and leadership qualities as 'like an orchestra conductor who can synthesise discordant harmonies that work. He is a true creative director'. Anderson's big break came that year when LVMH took a 46 per cent stake in his brand and hired him to helm the Madrid-based leatherwear brand Loewe. Behind the deal was Delphine Arnault , daughter of LVMH chief executive Bernard Arnault. She is now chief executive of Dior so her association with Anderson has been a long one. As the fashion world learned how to pronounce the name Loewe ('low–ehvey'), Anderson immediately became involved in every aspect of its rebranding, aiming to turn it into a cultural rather than a fashion brand. Under his stewardship from 2014 to 2024, the sleepy Spanish luxury brand (its sales in 1996 hovered around $2 million) was revived and turned into a global superstar business of $2 billion. I am very happy for Jonathan and his new appointment. He has made stimulating and exciting work over the last decade and I am looking forward to seeing that energy at Dior — Simone Rocha His first bag, the Puzzle , based on an origami construction, became – and remains – a best seller. One of his proudest achievements was establishing the Loewe Foundation Craft Prize, an annual award that recognises excellence among makers. His witty designs made headlines – whether pigeon bags, heirloom tomato-inspired clutches, upside-down rose-heeled stilettos, balloon sandals or, more recently, beautiful hooped floral dresses for spring 2025. Riccardo Simonetti wearing a pink tee from Palomoand a JW Anderson clutch in pigeon shape. Photograph:White high heels with rose during the Loewe show at Paris Fashion 2024. Photograph:Models present creations from the Spring/Summer 2024 Womenswear collection by Jonathan Anderson for Loewe during Paris Fashion Week His collaborations with global superstars and celebrities tend to fire up the internet: Rihanna, whose red leather corset at the 2023 Super Bowl revealed her pregnancy; Beyoncé's see-through catsuit with black hand motifs for her Renaissance tour, or his costumes for Zendaya for Luka Guadagnino's movie Challengers last year, are just some examples. His campaigns are always talking points, notably the one with then 88-year-old Maggie Smith modelling one of his celebrated Puzzle bags in October 2023. His makeover of a post-Bond Daniel Craig in the Loewe menswear winter 2024 campaign in cargo trousers, leather jacket, chunky boots with a multicoloured handknit decorated with a poppy abstract print by US artist Richard Hawkins was described by GQ as 'kooky, eclectic and really f**king cool'. According to Bell, Anderson is 'obsessed with the zeitgeist and so good at encapsulating the moment. He is now head of the biggest fashion brand in the world. Whatever he does is going to be super exciting.' Moooood — NFL (@NFL) Rihanna performs at the Super Bowl. Photograph: Timothy A Clary/AFP/Getty Images Irish designer Simone Rocha says: 'I am very happy for Jonathan and his new appointment. He has made stimulating and exciting work over the last decade and I am looking forward to seeing that energy at Dior.' Another Irish designer, Sorcha O'Raghallaigh, has remained a fan since she and Anderson were selected for Create, a showcase for design talent in Ireland, in its first year in Brown Thomas in 2011. 'On every aspect of Loewe, he has been strong – the imagery, the campaigns and exciting pieces on the runway. His accessories are always on point. I still cherish a pair of ballerina shoes with ankle ribbons and gold hourglass heels bought when I was working in Italy. I can't wait to see what he will do at Dior," O'Raghallaigh says. [ 'Forget about glamour': Jonathan Anderson offers advice to would-be fashion designers as he receives TCD honour Opens in new window ] An avid art collector and voracious reader, Anderson's cultural references are wide and all-embracing. The pale pastel shades in his collection for spring 2022, for instance, were based on his viewing of a newly restored 15th century Pontormo painting in Florence. He regularly collaborates with artists he admires. His ability to combine both the avant-garde and the commercial remains consistently his forte. 'I am always trying to find subtlety in newness. I am always curious about other people's creativity. I have two incredible teams and if you have the right people around you, they prevent you from blowing up. Some have been with me for 11 years, some for 15 years. I can be tough, but I always hire people that I admire and have potential. I want people to challenge me and feel able to express themselves. I don't like yes people,' he said in a recent interview with Bella Freud, Former womenswear director at Brown Thomas, Shelly Corkery, reckons he will widen the appeal of Dior while keeping its DNA. 'He has a good commercial eye, is a visionary and, like Prada, pushes boundaries. There is always novelty in his collections. With his Loewe logo denim, little vests and T-shirts that young people could afford, he widened its demographic. He will modernise Dior. He will have more fun with the brand and widen the ready to wear so that a younger customer can buy into it.' A gifted communicator, with the voice of a trained actor (which he is) Anderson is a storyteller, loquacious, always adept at articulating his ideas. He spoke frankly and thoughtfully to Bella Freud in a recent interview about his background and his approach to fashion, and he described how his mother narrowly escaped the Omagh bombing in 1998. Daniel Craig and Rachel Weisz attend the Loewe 2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week. Photograph:'Growing up, the North of Ireland was a complex place to live and it's important for me that I did grow up there and it helps me understand what I am today. The great thing about Ireland is storytelling and young people are curious, want to know you and that you believe in what you are selling, so you have to prove that you are not selling a sterile dream – otherwise it gets very corporate,' he said. Christian Dior himself was famously superstitious, believing in signs and symbols. Predicting the future is what great fashion designers do. Willie Anderson in his autobiography, Crossing the Line, tells a story of how a younger Jonathan, given the intense pressure around one of his early shows, decided holy water might give it a boost. 'There wasn't a lot of that around the house, but [Catholic] friends rode to the rescue delivering enough to float a small pleasure cruiser. Heather was on hand when the models were getting dressed. 'Jonny, will I sprinkle a bit on each model or how do you want to do this?' she asked. 'It's already sorted Mum,' he replied, 'It's in the steam irons so we can spread it!''

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