16 hours ago
This pop-up series in Bengaluru wants to bring back the joy of cooking
In a city like Bengaluru that's teeming with restaurants, bars and breweries as big as playgrounds, few establishments have managed to capture the fondness and loyalty of its people as Kopitiam Lah has. Designed after Malaysia's unassuming coffee shops or kopitiams, the restaurant that's located in Indiranagar, has in a span of few months earned its spot as one of the city's happier places; it's the one where you go to yap endlessly with your gang while sipping on cups of kopi or cold milo and plates of kaya toast.
Now, as it turns a year old, Kopitiam Lah's team, led by Joonie Tan, is celebrating the milestone by hosting a series that stays true to the essence of every kopitiam – of camaraderie, warmth, and joy of simple, good food. Called 'Masak Masak' — a Malay term that translates simply to 'play cooking" or more vividly into 'childhood games that involve cooking" — the series over the next few weekends will have chefs from around the country taking over Kopitiam Lah's kitchens to cook dishes that hold their personal stories.
''Masak Masak' is inspired by those childhood moments where you'd play chef with toy pans and plastic eggs — pure imagination, no rules. We're bringing that playfulness into the real kitchen by inviting chefs to create, experiment, and enjoy the process with us," tells Tan in an email interview with Mint Lounge. Recalling her favourite childhood memories of 'standing on a stool, pretending to stir soup in a pot with nothing more than water and vegetables as my mother played along", Tan adds that the series is a way of saying, 'food should be fun again."
The series kicks off this weekend with a special pop-up by chef Seefah Ketchaiyo, co-founder of her eponymous South-east Asian restaurant in Mumbai, and one of India's best-loved Thai chefs. For Ketchaiyo, the phrase 'masak masak' is a warm and playful one that conjures up memories of 'being in the kitchen with my father — no measuring tools, just hands, eyes, and heart." And so, saying yes to an invitation from Tan and her team was instantaneous. 'I loved the idea the moment I heard it," she says over email, adding that the menu she's bringing to Bengaluru features signature dishes that each have a story. 'Either it's something I grew up eating, I learned from someone I respect deeply, or something that reflects who I am today as a chef." The menu, which includes small plates and main course, has dishes such as the Saan Grilled Pork, Chilli Cereal Prawns, Stir-Fried Tenderloin in Oyster Sauce, Fresh Crab Meat Fried Rice and Phad Thai among others.
Ask Tan if she had any specific brief for Ketchaiyo and she says, 'We just told chef Seefah to cook whatever brings her joy. Whether it's something from her own menu or a dish she grew up with, we wanted her to feel completely at home in our kitchen. When chefs are comfortable and happy, that translates into the food."
As women of Southeast Asian origin (Tan is from Malaysia, Ketchaiyo is from Thailand) who've married Indians and made India their home, the two restaurateurs share quite a few similarities that translate into an easy sisterhood. 'When Joonie and I talk, it's always from the heart. We're both very rooted in our cultures, but we also understand what it means to build a life and career in a new country. Our conversations are full of food stories, laughter, ideas and a lot of respect for each other's journey." For Tan, teaming up with Ketchaiyo for the anniversary celebrations felt natural owing to their similar childhood experiences. 'Chef Seefah and I share not just a regional background, but a deep respect for heritage cooking and flavour-first food. There's something about being raised in Southeast Asia that shapes your palate early — the balance of sweet, sour, spice, and umami is intuitive. So yes, it felt incredibly natural to collaborate," she admits.
Ketchaiyo's expertise in Thai cuisine has made her a 'pop-up favourite" in the country, with invitations coming in from five-star hotels and stand-alone restaurants. 'Pop-ups for me are not just about food, they're about sharing energy, culture, and memories with new people," she says. 'I love the creative freedom they offer and I also love how they connect me with different cities and communities. Every pop-up has its own story and I always come away inspired and grateful."
While Ketchaiyo sets the tone for Kopitiam Lah's celebrations that will last for a few more weekends, Tan lets on that 'Masak Masak' as a series will continue for longer, and will include chefs who work across different cuisines. 'The goal is to invite chefs who can bring a part of their own childhood or culture to the table — chefs who aren't afraid to play, to take risks, and to cook with heart. Each edition will be a little surprise," ends Tan.
'Masak Masak' with chef Seefah is at Kopitiam Lah, Indiranagar 12th Main Road, Bengaluru, on 21-22 June, for lunch and dinner.
