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Boston Globe

We avoided Atlantis for years. But with so many fans, what were we missing?

We know lots of friends, family, and acquaintances who have vacationed at the resort, returning with glowing reviews. So much to do! The kids are already asking to go back. Don't know why we didn't go sooner. Bucket list! Expensive, but worth it . Get Starting Point A guide through the most important stories of the morning, delivered Monday through Friday. Enter Email Sign Up The Mayan Temple has five slides, including the five-story corkscrew Serpent Slide, the Jungle Slide, through jungles and caves, and The Leap of Faith, with an almost 60-foot vertical drop into a clear tunnel submerged in a shark-filled lagoon. Pamela Wright Advertisement So, huh. Perhaps, it was time to lose our attitudes and check it out. We knew what we were getting into; this legendary resort is massive, spanning 151 acres with five separate lodging options, 20 swimming areas and 14 pools, more than 40 restaurants, bars, and lounges, a 141-acre waterpark, an 18-hole golf course, 5 miles of beaches, a world-class marina, full-service spa, and the world's largest open-air marine habitat. We were exhausted (and, OK, excited) just thinking about it. Caveat: We went in the fall, off-season, and the resort was blissfully uncrowded, but we've heard that it can get packed in high season, and lines and wait times can be long. Advertisement The seashell roof gazebo at Atlantis, Paradise Island Resort, keeps up with the resort's nautical, ocean theme. Pamela Wright Let me live that fantasy Your first decision is where to stay. Rooms and suites at The Royal Towers are most popular and have recently undergone major renovation (starting from $290). They're spacious, light and airy, with crisp nautical blue and white hues, and large modern bathrooms. It's the closest accommodation to the waterpark and home to the resort's casino, the Mandara Spa, seven restaurants, and several bars. Prefer a little less action? The Cove is arguably the most elegant place to stay, with 600 upscale suites, a quiet adults-only pool, 20 private cabanas, and a poolside lounge (starting from $430). It also had our favorite bar: The Sea Glass, with ocean views, an outdoor patio, and bartenders who know how to concoct and give hefty pours, albeit for a hefty price. (Our two martinis cost $45, including an automatically added 15 percent tip and 10 percent VAT.) Remember, another 25 percent is added to food and drinks! Harborside Resort, with one-, two-, and three-bedroom villas, located across from the marina, is a bit more secluded (starting from $270). It's a good choice if you don't plan on spending much time at the water park, or don't mind walking to the main attractions. (There's also an easy-to-use free shuttle bus that runs throughout the resort.) The Coral is popular with families and the resort's most economical place to stay, with a pool, lagoon with marine exhibits, theater, and casual restaurants (starting from $250). Here's where you can also snag one of the resort's recently opened Barbie rooms, decked out in hot pinks and themed décor. As a side note, Atlantis has gone all out with Barbie offerings, including special Barbie-themed dining events, Barbie pool cabanas, a Barbie-themed ice cream parlor, and the Barbie Boardwalk Adventure, a walk-through experience with a tattoo parlor, ball pit, bubble maze, and more. Advertisement We stayed at The Reef, a high-rise with studios and suites, with small kitchenettes or full kitchens (starting from $390). It's located next to the Cove and within easy walking distance of other attractions. We appreciated the facilities to prepare simple breakfasts, snacks, and beverages, which proved to be both convenient and money-saving. Pro tip: Make a quick shopping trip into Nassau for snacks and beverages, and you'll save a heap of money. Sea Glass Bar is a popular hangout for adults. Pamela Wright Living high on the hog There's no question about it, food and beverages are expensive, and one of the biggest complaints about the resort. But there are choices — 21 exactly — so if your food budget is a top concern, consider casual walk-up vendors, like Cascades (burger $12, pulled pork sandwich $16), Pita (falafel $12, chicken shawarma $19), Shark Bites (conch salad, crab cakes and chowder $18 each), and Shake Shack (cheeseburger $9.85). There are also several award-winning, fine dining establishments. And, what the heck? You're on vacation! There's internationally known Nobu by celebrated chef Nobu Matsuhisa, Silan by chef Alan Shaya, and Fieldtrip by chef JJ Johnson. We dined at Fish by Jose Andres, enjoying complimentary cheddar biscuits, an inventive shrimp mojo negro ($27), scorched conch with ghost peppers ($17), and striped bass ($59) and Caribbean grouper ($54) entrees. Another evening, we ate at chef Michael White's Italian restaurant, Paranza, dining on grilled octopus ($36), lamb ragu ($40), and a memorable seafood risotto ($46). If you're traveling with kids, we'd suggest the more casual, less expensive options. Maybe take the shuttle to Marina Pizza, where you can get takeout, sit at picnic tables, and ogle the mega-size luxury yachts docked at the marina. Advertisement There are artworks throughout Atlantis. Pamela Wright Water, water everywhere You could spend your days relaxing on the soft white sand beaches, lounging under the Bahamian sun, and swimming in the deep turquoise waters. But we didn't, and you probably won't either. Not when there's so much else to do. Top of the list is a visit to Aquaventure, the 141-acre, 20-million-gallon waterpark, with pools, rivers, and slides. Highlights include the 120-foot Power Tower with four slides; the Abyss, with a 50-foot plunge and a 200-foot-long body slide; the Surge with a drop through a cavern, and the infamous Mayan Temple, with five slides, including the five-story corkscrew Serpent Slide, the Jungle Slide, through jungles and caves, and the Leap of Faith, with an almost 60-foot vertical drop into a clear tunnel submerged in a shark-filled lagoon. Yes, you read that right. The Leap of Faith has an almost 60-foot vertical drop into a clear tunnel submerged in a shark-filled lagoon. GRAHAM DICKIE/NYT We opted for the Rapids River, a mile-long inner tube ride through waves and rapids and down drops, which was thrilling enough for us. Families with smaller kids congregate at Poseidon's Playzone, with slides, water cannons, fountains, buckets, bubbling jets, and a fort. There's water everywhere: pools, streams, waterfalls, lagoons, aquariums, and underwater tunnels filled with marine life. We appreciated the educational signage throughout the resort; just walking around was a feast for the eyes and mind. The dolphins at Dolphin Cay love to interact with trainers and guests. Pamela Wright Doing good Our favorite activity was a visit to Dolphin Cay, a 6-million-gallon open-air marine habitat, with pools, reefs, mangrove nurseries, lagoons, and sandy beaches. It opened in 2007, providing a safe and permanent home for dolphins and sea lions left stranded by Hurricane Katrina, and more than 30 other native species, including reef fish, sea stars, lobster, and conch. Dolphin Cay also serves as a marine rescue and rehabilitation center and has reintroduced more than 160 animals back to their natural habitats. Advertisement The dolphins looked exceptionally happy and healthy to us, and the trainers were passionate and caring. 'They're social animals, and we engage with them through play and positive interactions,' our trainer said during our Playtime with Dolphins experience. 'They don't do anything they don't want to.' You can sign up for a variety of Dolphin Cay activities, like snorkeling, kayaking, and paddleboarding with dolphins, swimming with sea lions and stingrays, and learning to be a vet for a day. Is it worth it? A mom and her young daughter dressed in identical Barbie outfits sat next to us at dinner on our last night at Atlantis. They were celebrating her 8th birthday, staying in one of the Barbie-themed rooms. They'd spent an afternoon at the waterpark, had play time with the dolphins, and were looking forward to a Barbie baking class the next day. 'She'll remember this trip forever,' her mom said, as she pulled a credit card out of her tiny pink Barbie clutch. 'I'll be paying for it forever, too,' she joked, 'but it's worth it.' 888-877-7525, Diane Bair and Pamela Wright can be reached at